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Bruyeres specialty is embroidery . . . in elaborate Mauresque styles on eve- ning gowns. or in delicate black stitch- ery on pastel wools for day wear Madame Lanvin’s Collection defies classification for her models show the greatest diversity. according to a writer Patou's feature colors are this bright blue-toned creise which he calls Violoe- ha and Astral Green, a pale, clear, acid shade which most effectively combines with the first. These colors predom- inate, the former used as relief . . . in hats. gloves. bows and cording, on black day clothes, and for some chiff- on dance frocks. the latter in beautiful tailored ensembles; in some sack-back top coats; and in a velour coats. with umbrella seams worn over a shirred black chiffon dress and featuring an Astral green jewelled motif at the waist. Knife pleating runs through practi- cally the whole Collection at Patton's. Banded in some of the little clay frocks carried out in navy blue or black with touches of lingerie and matching petti- coats; or flowing free. as in a black net evening gown hung with sequins from the waist, and the handsome peri- winkle evening cloak whose cerise bow matches the slotted cerise ribbons con- fining a wide pleat-ed inset in the gmm underneath. Lucien belong has gone to the sea for inspiration; every gown in his Collec- {-1011 features waves or swallows, gal- leons, shells. star fish, rope and other nautlical accoutremem! Particularly successful ane exclusive wave and sea- weed prints which Coudrier executed in sea-green and blue cottons and silks. Lace is extensively employed both for afternoon and evening wear. Dognin shows Chantilly laces sewn with con- trasting colored chenille; and a sump- tuous evening one re-embroidered with strips of metal. There's a great, deal of black and White guipure for all-over gowns and also guipure motifs for in- sertion including dainty little bunches of flowers. Bianchini has small and large bou- quets and garlands of flowers in the freshest colors, sometimes contrasted with black motifs of fans, masks and ribbon bows. ‘His specialty, Lorganza, is extremely summery, in a whole range of tone-over-tone delicate plaids, in little Pompadour bouquets set in glossy rayon checks, and in open-work deâ€" signs. Schiapar» °lli goes in fox voluminous sar-efl'ects, cairied out in vivid, printed cations and worn with droll, padded, mushroom hats. Day dresses are short â€"â€" seventeen inches from the ground. some of themâ€"- apparently designed for the fourteen- year-old. One writer on fashion says: "Youthfulness is expressed in plisse effects that everyone is showing, and in “swing-skirts." Above all, in color. For once. black for day wear is de- finitely challenged. Whether or not the Frenchwoman will accept this dic- tum and fc-'5ake her favorite garb re- mains to be seen. Schiaparelli, alone, shows her impeccably severe black suits and frocks but even these froth at the neck and wrists with Valenciennes and handkerchief-linen frivolities. There are rainbow plaids and pastel-tinted topcmats over printed silks. Evening colors combine green with cerise and rose; canary yellow with purple; ginger with blue; and citron with black and sharp acid tones. Evening skirts either cling or billow 0 'er crinolines." The same writer summarizes the of- ferings of the several famous designers in Paris. Helm, it is noted, presents a collection, ph'ate-inspired, entirely car- ried out in wool. Silks. plain and primed are used in elaborate three-piece ensemble by Mar- cel Roches. Word from Paris. France. is all to the effect that. youthfulness is the key- note of today's fashions. Youth is call- ed to its own. but it is in some re- spects the ~vouth of long ago. Believe it or not. the petticoat is back again. It is the newest feature. Fashioned in rustling faille. or in starched white, it peeps an inch below the short skirt. or appears only when the wearer sits down. April 3rd. 1939 Youthfulness Keynote of Fashions in Paris Dan Dresses Are Short. Swing Skirts the Thing. Youth . Speaks Also in Colours. Rainbow Plaids and Pastel- Tinted Topcoats. And There 15 Actually a Petticoat. Queen Mary admired the ultra-simple drawing-room of Queen Marie’s flat. It contains a sofa. two armchairs. a desk and a big radiogramophone. During her com'alese ence after two serious operations. Queen Marie has had few visitors. The Duchess of Kent has been one of them, Princess Paul of Jugoslavia another. On fine week-ends she has driven down in her cofl-ee-col- cured car Lo her Bedfordshire cottage. Queen Mary Pays Visit to Queen Ma'rie, of Jugo-Slavia London, Eng., March 30.~â€"In order to take tea with Queen Marie of Jugo- slavia the other day, Queen Mary had to go up no the sixth floor of a modern block of flats hear Sloane-square, Lon- don. Some exotic straws called "linen backou” combine the crispness of lin- en with untold draping possibilities. Madame Bruyere is using wood for a number of off-the-the-face sailors; it is light as paper but infinitely more solid; Agness continues to drape little pointed turbans in multiple colored net; Rose Valois uses crownless brims most effectively and orchids smothered in mauve net on delicate pale blue felt; and we are threatened with a deluge of Victorian bonnets draped with Chan- tilly lace that ties under the chin. According to the writer in Mayfair, hat-s will be slightly less mad. You don’t have to balance a bird‘s nesL on your right eyebrow to be smart. Paris- ian modistes are relenting and allow- ing their clients to be vaporously rom- antic, and there are so many ways of swathing scarves. and veils and tinted chiffons that droop from floral brims or seriIe as background for antique and modern jewelled ornaments that it will be impossible not to look attrac- tive. Molyneux shows a. Platinum fox skin for which he has the exclusive Europ- ean rights. It is an exquisite. bluishâ€" grey with slightly darker narrow cen- tre-line, with shoulders, throat and at least a third of the tail pure white. This is the production of a Norwegian farm which has been experimenting for a numberof years in this completely new cross-breed of foxes: at present only fourteen specimens have been put on the -ma‘rket. A second group of gcwns, inspired by Boilly's paintings, shows a slimâ€"fitted. low-waisted bodice, mm a full skirt, in heavy satin, moire or taffeta. length evening redingotes complete an ensemble which recalls Madame Re- camier or the gay ladies of the I-‘alais Royal! in Mayfair. Therecareher classic gar- den-party frocks in billowing organza appliqued with floral designs and with additional fluttering petals of applied posies; handsome topcoats and tailored suits with discreet quilting studded with metal nail heads; her famous “tea gowns" with angel sleeves or floating panels; many tunics, in tie-silk and Roman stripes. flared evening coats in black cire-satin quilted on cobweb de- THE PORCUPINE ADVANCE. TIMMINS. ONTARIO London. England. March 30. â€" 'I‘wo London fathers have invented a. gas- proof perambulatorâ€"complete with air- pumping and filtering apparatusâ€" which, they claim. solves the problem of protecting babies in the event, of air attacks. One pull of a lever converts the or- dinary peace-time perambulator into a gas-proof shelter. Nine-months-old Beryl Freed. o'f Lyn- mouth-road, Stamford Hill. N., was the The shoes come popularly in suede. which is the ruler of “shoeland”, and patent, which is the prince. At Graâ€" ham's you will find them in every shade for the newest spring colours in en- sembles. with open-toe, a great deal of cut work, braided ribbon, and open heel. There you may admire 1' and pur- chase). black suede shoes, piped with braided ribbon, fashioned with an open toe and high front, with a narrow strap circling the open heel to fasten in a buckle at the side. and also in black, a soft, kid featuring a platform sole and heel, and quite the last word in shoes for the shorter woman. Two London Fathers Invent Gas-Proof I’erambulators Airy and lightâ€"that, is the I‘asl in shoes for the modern “Miss" her mother. No weighty loads of ht leather to hinder the "spring" stei the fashionable woman of to-day, Graham‘s Shoe Store, in displaying most up-t-oodate in “hapDY” shoes. Suede This Year the King of Shoeland. Shoes in All Latest. Shades at Graham’s Harvey Graham s81. Son 6 Pine Street North $6.50 $3.95 STYLES COLORS Wine, Rust, Dutch Clay. Cosmetic Blue, Shiny Patent, Cloister Black. TO ALI, FITTINGS VERIFIED BY X-RAY Oxfords, Pumps, Stcpins, Straps, )Iud’ guardS, Platforms and many others. the fashiqn ”Miss and of heavy " step of day, says AND YOU will want, to reflect the spirit of the season with flattering fo’otwear . . . de- signed for the Easter parade! Hundreds of pairs to select from . . . all modestly priced. Come in to-day, while stocks are complete. The Prime Minister of Great Britain has given insporation for more than the popularity of a crooked-handle umbrella. Molyneux ofifers 3 Chamber- lain “top hat" printâ€"a frock covered with miniatures of the famous Prem- ier's hat. child is visible to its mother through a window. and breathing pure and filter- ed air coming through pumps concealed in the handle-bars. . inspiration for the invention. ‘ Her father, E. Freed. a teacher. de- termined to assure her safety. With his brother. K. L. F. Freed, who also has a young child. he built. a peram- bulator consisting of an outer and an inner case. . On the first warning of danger a lever can be pulled and the child. 13'- ing in the inner case, is immediately within a gas-proof metal cylinder. The Q Hick-Fleck . Nursery Wools Hand-Knit Suits. 44 6th Ave ‘Xnnounces a new shipment of the WOOLY LAMB _ STUDIO IMPORTED ENGLI SH “LISTER'S “'OOLS" "TOP H AT" FROCK Telephone 11 O Lax e1da 0 Popular Page Three teacher. de- afety. With *d, who also It, a peram- Blocking Ph. 1754