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i aS ee neta ee epeeensieng tt eematete hay 16. THE OSHAWA TIMES, Thurdey, September 23, 1965 Coutures Fashion History Shows Coat Silhouettes . By MARGARET NESS ' NEW YORK (CP) -- Nothing fn fashion history changes more drastically than the coat sil- houette, . During the last 40 years we've the gamut from barrel to ge to skinny. Waistlines in dresses may stray from an em- re high to a hipster - slung w. But few designers would lace the bulk at the hips or op of a dress. No girl likes a realy hippy look. Shoulder width is not too popular even for sults. or jackets. Since the Second World War coats have captured the lime- light in seemingly abrupt sil- houette changes. Immediately) after the war, interest centred In sleeves--dolman, raglan and bell styles. Collars were small Ever Changing fell right down to the ankles and completely enveloped the wearer, it became known as the tent coat. At the recent showings in Rome, this silhouette was re- vived by the popular young Roman designer, Federico For- quet. In New York it came near the same--but straight- hanging ---. proportions in a greatcoat in grey tweed by Monte-Sano and Pruzan, How- ever this was the extreme. The eg or semi-fitted prevails this) 'al : There was only one way for! the 1948-49 coat silhouette to go after this exaggerated cover-| age. It had to shrink, By the} ifall of 1955 Dior introduced the! caftan. It was the hit of the) Paris openings. This slim tunic were coliariess. Plaids were tops. The next fall capes in- undated the market, They're still important. New was the double-breasted look that has continued its popularity right into this fall. Two years ago coats started slimming down again. The word "skinny" became overworked last fall. Many designers tried out the narrow set-in sleeves that finally came into full ac- ceptance, This fall the word "skinny" has been dropped, But most coats remain spare and clean-cut or slightly semi-fitted. What's next for spring? Prob- ably a return toa _ caer sized waistline and a flaring skirt. Several guardsman's|™March up and down village coats, included in the recent Streets in frequent parades. collections of the New York! This goes for both of the two Couture Group, would seem to! fire-fighting bodies in the land. indicate this trend. One is the 1,500-man city pro- : = fessional corps of Sapadores Bombeiros, the other the coun- Pk hed goed engi Ali try-wide Bombeiros Me -- sone SHRAN, u -- / hay are Zuhurian, & sprightly 67, attrl\among the most highly trained butes his health and happiness and versatile organizations in to his 157 wives and concubines) portugal, By JOAQUIM LETRIA LISBON (AP)--A fireman in Portugal is a jack of all trades. He must not only know how to put out a fire, but be pre- pared to rescue cats from high trees, old ladies from locked houses, deliver babies in ambu- lances, rescue wrecked seamen, fill swimming pools, play a trumpet or a bassoon, snap into a frogman's rubber suit, ana Versatile Volunteers Form Portugal's Fire-Fighters ital, Oporto, the second city, and Coimbra, of university fame. BUCKET BRIGADE War, there were no proper fire- men in Portugal. Public-spirited neighbors rushed round, bucket in hand, to help put out each other's fires. This wasn't very effective, since slow communi- paginee gg muddled methods meant the loss of propert sometimes life. -- | What to do Early this cen- | tury there were many Gallegos 'living in Lisbon. These Span- }iards from the province of Ga- jlicia, which borders on north |Portugal, formed an important part of the hard-working city community as waiters, messen- gers, furniture removers, dock- Before the Second World. ers. They were the first regular) Along the coast the voluntary fire-fighters. firemen are also the sea rescue The next thing was to cre-|squad. At the first signal of a ate an efficient alarm system,|sea disaster (four wails of a for there were no telephones, no|loud sireti): they roar along the taxicabs, no quick means of|coast with every known device communication. to help the lifeboats from the Somebody decided that church) shore. jbells might also play their part) There are few people in Por- as fire alarms, , | tugal today who do not put their In addition, prizes were of-|hands in their pockets when the fered to the group arriving annual fire brigade proces- first at a fire. This speeded up| sion marches down the street. ROLES REVERSED MANILA (AP)--Antonio "Del- iva Jr., a 23-year-old Filipino, was sent to jail for contempt after he failed to appear as a witness against two men he said tried to murder him. At the trial, the judge ordered Deliva jailed and freed the defendants) on bond, | MANY LIKE SHARP HATS Half of Italy's annual produc- tion of hats is shipped abroad. . 2 nm seaiaininimenienmemememnememenamemmammmmnaat PIANO CLASSICAL and POPULAR For further information PATRICIA TUCK 74 BURK ST. OSHAWA 725-4587 proceedings a little, CROWN LAKE QUEEN All the time, the Gallegos U didn't take to their humanitar-;) KELOWNA, B.C, (CP)--Mar- cia Ferworn, 18-year-old honor ian task with much fervor, and it was still the neighbors who|student, was crowned 1965's Lady of the Lake at the annual did most of the work, Little by little the neighbors themselves|regatta at this Okanagan Val- began to form semi-professional|ley centre, and more efficient fire-fighting CLEANING In Your Home. . bodies. Horses and mules brought the water carts more quickly, Bet-| ter equipment evolved until now both professional and voluntary | firemen in Portugal have mo- torized equipment equal to that Join a beginner's Have Fun This Winter! SQUARE DANCE CLUB Every Thursday 8 - 10:30 p.m. at Bowmanville Memorial Park Club House, Liberty. St, S. 725-2744 or 623-7244 ers and other modest wage-earn- OSHAW, RUG & UPHOLSTERY 7, fH Y . or Our Plant Gatlin PHONE 725-9961 DIVISION OF WA cEUXNING. ContancTons | umes LLEANERS of any country in the world. ae nen ene Fe A sO En and neat, Skirts were 14 inches| coat was inspired by the cost-\during the last half century. 'A) Jn the villages, the voluntary ume worn by the late prime | wife can double her husband's) qj, corps is the very heart of from the floor. wife They were to go all the way| minister Nehru of India. jlife,"" he told an interviewer,| soojal, economic and. cultural down to the ankles when Dior| 'This fall, 10 years later, Ben|"Provided there ts no mother-)jifo, jt provides its own funds introduced his New Look in| Zuckerman introduces a rajah-|in-law." iby house - to - house collections, 1947. And last season they| inspired group in elegantly slim) oe ee | public festivals, concerts, and KEPT UNDER THE HAT renting its premises for village climbed four inches above./ quilted silk poplin with jet but- English Mary Quant even pre-| tons. BANGKOK (AP) -- Thailand] gatherings. It is a sort of club, dicts a high of six inches for) By 1956 the caftan expanded|police grew suspicious at the|to which most of the young men this winter. linto a barrel look again. Typ-\steady stream of unsavory of the village belong. In the late 1940s the cocoon/ical was a red '"'purl" tweed by characters patronizing a beauty' The official city fire-fighters, or tubular coat emerged as the; Monte-Sano and Pruzan with a/parlor in the capital. A raid divided into 21 companies, have top silhouette. Paris called it shaped pucker hemline. Skirts found that the shop dealt in am- world-wide repute, and have the barrel. Pierre Balmain pre-) were still long. munition as well as tonsorial won many international prizes, sented a long tubular coat in| ,, es : services. iThey exist is Lisbon, the cap- black velour, front-buttoned to, COLLARS CLIMB HIGH | the black fox hemline. This|, Important by 1958 was the year, Canadian coat manufac. | three-quarter-length coat. Actu- turers are again banding the|lly it was some 20 years old hemlines in fur. but had been overlooked during Later Gres introduced his re- plies Bg resale versible blanket coat in nut|.; P _ ath P ai brown, faced with yellow And e1ehin agerrt s ne oes, tare ' * "| the New York colle s, Li vege mie yal i Onigi- draped collars stood away from ' aa | a j nala. Harvey Berin likes checks} = one ; ne C 'on one side, the reverse plain to|_ That year was the Costume match a dress underneath, A| Look. To be fashionable your two-faced coat in mocha and|C0at was designed to comple- ment a dress. Matching fabrics to ba A gaa I in different weights--or planned jcollar and 'fabric contrasts--| TENT STYLE REVIVED | were highlighted. The next year | Gres' blanket coat was DOUBLE YOUR MILEAGE IN THESE INTERIOR DECORATOR PURNITURE DRAPERIES BROADLOOM 15 King Street East CUSTOM MADE DRAPES Phone 725-2686 a/collars hugged the chin or were circular flare that, by 1948, de-| completely absent. veloped into the generous pro-| This fall there's again the portions of the pyramid silhou-| muffled look. High-rising col- ette. Cut in ample back full-\jars or self scarves are the ness from a yoke, it hung full/Jatest trend. Monte-Sano and and free from small shoulders.|Pryzan introduce exaggerated As one. fashion writer de-|high-standing cuff - collars that scribed the coat: 'It stands out| button almost to the nose. like an upright triangle. One Of) By 1960 the full coat was back tts chief charms lies in the|again, with full-flaring sleeves grace of action." But since it!set on a low shoulderline. 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