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THE DAILY TIMES-GAZETTE, Wednesday, Oclober ¥, 1058 48 Many Complicated and Skilled Operations Go Into Making Fur Coats Marten's Furs -- One of Canada's Oldest Fur Coat Manufacturers Now Celebrating Its 46th Anniversary [ The above picture shows Marten's newest Toronto Branch Store located ot 1954 Danforth Ave. Above is the recent photo of highly skilled fur cutters ot work in the Marten "s Furs located Fur Factory. These men are the highest paid in the entire fur industry. h of M The cbove is a photo of the New Ti ot 787 Lekeshore Road. Mr. Henri Dandele Marten"s Factory Supervisor Explains Fur Coat Making Any morning now, we will | i wake up and find snow on the ground, and with the approach of the long winter months, every woman's thoughts turn to furs. * In the horse and buggy days, a fur coat was about as stylish as an old rug wrapped around for warmth, With the knowledge ac- quired during the past twenty years in the produe- tion and designing of furs, the present day woman would just as soon be with- out shoes as without a fur coat. Designed and fashion- ed by experts, fur coats to- day are a necessary part of every woman's wardrobe. Unlike eloth eoats, with their one to two seasons, wear, a fur coat with the a definite' savings in the budget when the actual est is divided over the years of wear. This week, Marten's Furs, ™ King 8t. E, Hotel Gen- osha, is celebrating ite 46th Anniversary establishment of that business. This firm started manufacturing fur coats way back in 1908, long before many. of its present day customers were born, and has been in continuous operation since that date. A visit to the factory of Marten's Furs in Torontn, where skillful workers take the raw furs and from them fashion stylish garments, is an interesting experience. Through the kind coopera- tion of Mrs. Wyatt of Mar- ten's Oshawa branch, we were able to see for our- selves the workers engaged in the many operations re- quired in the manufacture of fur coats. Mr. Henri Dandele, in charge of the factory, and himself a master fur cutter of many years standing, was our guide and informant. The factory workrooms of Marten's Furs are consid- ered by those familiar with the trade as being one of the best equipped in the country and the firm's staff is ex- perienced in all types of furs. All factory employees are members of the CIO Fur and Leather Workers Union, Locals 35, 40 and 65. With Mr. Dandele ex- plaining each step, it was amazing to see the amount of exacting work in the manufacture of a fur coat: For example, a luxurious Grey Persian Lamb coat. First of all the skins must be matched to each other with extreme care, since no two fur pelts are ever exact- ly alike. When each skin is marked and designated to . the exact porition it will fin- ally be in the completed gar- ment, the actual work on the shins begina. A Grey Persian Lamb #kin is approximately 25 ward pull, $longer and narrower skin. | nohes long and 15 inches ly To trim off the edges and sew them together | would result in a blotchy and | uneven aosrearance, Theére- | fore, an intricate fur cutting | method called "dropping" is | smployed by the fur cutter | to make the skins uniform | in width and the full length of the finished fur coat. To | "drop" a fur skin which is 25 inches long to the length of a 46-inch coat, a line is drawn the length of the skin in the exact + centre and about twenty diagonal cuts are made on each side of this line to the outside cdges of the skins. The pelts are then handed over to the fur machine operator who sep- arates the strips and sews them together with a down- resulting in a| The asking are now ready to be sewn bogethew. The next step is to stretch and block the fur body on | large flat 'wooden boards | where # must remain for thirty-six hotirs when it is removed and trimmed to the exact pattern. Blind stitch- ing machines are then em- ployed to attach cotton lin- ing to the leather side of the skins in order to prevent stretching during the nor- mal wear of the finished fur coat. And finally, we go to | the finishing department where the silk lining and accessories are all sewn and attached by hand. The com- pleted - fur coat is Holland- erized to remove all dust and clippings and it is now ready for mildady to wear. The entire procedure re- quires at least ten days of steady application. In Marten's Furs factory stockrooms, fur skins matched and bundled in lots ready for work, hang in rows and rows . . . thousands upon thousands of dollars worth of Grey and Black Persian Lambs, Minks, Muskrats, Grey Kidskins, etc. On one side of the room are newly completed fur coats ready for shipment. Since Marten's Furs manufactures its own fur, coats, the buying of the raw fur skins is a very import- ant factor in giving custom- ers satisfaction. Canadian furs are purchased direct from the trappers, and Mar- ten's own buyers attend the great auction sales in New York and London where for- eign furs are put up for sale. Further and most import- ant, contracts are kept in force with New York's lead- ing designers in order that Located at Hotel Genosha 70 KING ST. EAST NINTH YEAR IN TT J SALE STARTS TOMORROW! Don't Miss These SALE OPENING SPECIALS! Northern -- Blended Flanks MUSKRAT JACKETS (DYED) Natural -- Top Quality GREY KIDSKIN Blond -- Flanks SHEARED RACOON Black Dyed -- Middles PERSIAN LAMB Top Quality -- Processed MOUTON LAMB ALL AT ONE LOW, LOW PRICE! Fine Quality Northern MUSKRAT BACKS (DYED) Black Dyed -- Full Skin PERSIAN LAMB Budget Terms Available ! the firm's finished products may keep a step ahead of the last word in fashion. In announcing its 46th Anniversary celebration Marten's Furs extend a wel- come to the citizens of Osh- 'awa to pay a visit to the | store and sce for themselves | the high quality of Marten's | Furs products, - | / / If the same Quality Furs can be purchased the same day at the above price ANYWHERE ELSE, we will refund the difference PLUS 10%. OUR GUARANTEE: at Hotel Genosha "Manufacturers of Fine Furs For Over 46 Years!" 70 KING VER VEEL Ze RIL ANE