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' } a : BhHe Feminine Touch Everywhere Apparent The Daytime Mode Recog- The Summer Hat is Here | and it is Brim Full of Charm Certain Types Are Making Fashion His- tory, And All Are Achieving Smartness. Fashion Divides Her Allegiance Be- tween The Hat Of Smooth Or Rough Straw, The Hat Of Fabric, And The One Of Felt rid LL through the months when frocks and coats and all the accessories of our costumes have been yielding to the teminine theme, hats have remained coolly aloof. We have worn chic little felt shapes of deceiving sim- plicity and smoothly wound tur- bans or tight helmet hats, and have kept trimmings and other elabora- tions down to a minimum. Arrives "a new hat mode, and it is a thing of feminine details--flowers. laces, openwork straws, trailing ribbons and all the little, lovely things that are associated with such a mode. You cannot round cut your wardrobe with a series of felt hats, and be correct--you must have straws and felts and fabrics and combinations of the three. Yet there are simple little hats and they have a purpose, that purpose a part of the generally versatile scheme of things. The Large Hat And The Small And one may add the hat with a medium brim, so comforting to the woman who loves the picture 'hat but may not, for various rea- sons, wear it. Like the wide- brimmed affair, it is rather formal, taking that place in the wardrobe. In a general way the newest shapes may be divided into sports, the daytime hat and the formal one, the latter including many really different types, for there are many different ensemble types. There are hats designed for ten- nis and for golf, and in the new order of things there are hats for the beach and for the newest sport idea--outfitted becomingly, dude ranching. It has become the cus- tom, nowadays, to vacation on a Western ranch, and to keep wholly in the spirit of the thing, there will be a wide-brimmed hat of the sombrero type either Mexican or cowboy. One must consider at- mosphere in one's hats! Both Straws And Felts In the general sports group we find a divided allegiance, for the simple hat with a narrow, pro- tecting brim must needs be versa- tile, and so the division. = Then there are turbans of silk or jersey, for wear on the court, and the beret is a favorite. One's tam may match one's frock in fabric, and is smartest this way. The beach hat is a Wig, floppy affair, that is, un- less you have yet to acquire your smart coat of tan. The daytime hat is a versatile thing, and is made of felt or straw or a fabric, in any number of shapes, the turban often seen and the cloche hat a favorite. The lat- ler is brimmed, and the brims have their vagaries, dipping and rolling and turning up sharply, if the sll- houette permits. Shiny straws are smart, with their satiny glossness, and there are fetching rough straws that are appropriate to sports, as well as town wear. The Large Hat Important FPormality brings us the picture hat and the one with a medium brim, although it is not imperative that the 'dressy hat be elther--it may be small, but it will be of fine straw and have some elaboration. The sleeveless chiffon frock is best complimented by a large hat, and the latter is most appropriate to late afternoon affajrs and early evening dining--but the latter will be of the informal sort--the roof season is here. A model in Tuscan straw is typical, for its beauty lies in its lines, and its trimming is merely a matching crepe de chine. A wide- brimmed affair of ballibuntl has ribbons to match, bowed effective- ly. A third hat in this group is made of natural straw and has a really novel trimming, made up of rows of wooden beads, arranged in a 'modernistic pattern, the colors ivory and a softened orange, sug- gesting the capucine colorings of fashion. Odd Shapes Are Featured Shiny, rough black straw is ap- proved, and, being pliable, it fits the head closely. It has the added charm of being light of weight. There is a new material, called petitsoie, that looks very like straw and is light of weight. It is used for travel, sports and street hats. Sisol straw appears in a cloche nfodel, and natural baku and balli- buntl are generously represented in any collection of hats, straw or otherwise. Sheer velvet makes an adorable little turban, all shirred and draped to fit the head of the wearer. A sports hat, that is lovable, crush- able, wearable, is made of woven ribbons, and velvet is again the choice in a sports bandana that ties, with a jaunty effect, in the back of the neck. Pique and linen are used for stitched hats--sports, of course, and a panama hat has a striped ribbon band in Roman colorings. There is wide variety. If you travel, then you will insist upon a coat of the type pictured. It has a fascinating draped collar of summer fur and a silk tie, and it is light of weight, yet comfortingly 'warm, as travel _ coats should be, Fr | the plain material that is combined The designers of our millinery care not what source they distinguish. The hat at the upper left has a trimming not unlike | Hawaiian leis, while pompoms of red and yellow make the brown felt debtor to Spain. The fiber beret is French! The Utility En-| semble NE could be strictly truthful and still say that every en- semble is in the utility class, for every ensemble is designed with a distinct purpose. There are as many types as there are occa- sions for wearing them, and whether it be on the veranda of the country club, lunching and shopping in town, or playing the inevitable bridge game of an after- noon, perhaps dining out a little later, there is a special ensemble for the special thing. You may consider the little ten- nis frock, with its brief jacket, an ensemble, for it is a complete cos- tume. Then come the little outfits of rough silk or Chinese damask, made in sports fashion and boast- ing a three-quarters or full length coat, and they are classed as sports, too, but belong to the spectator group. In many details it will follow the active sports theme, but other details will place it in the group where it belongs. Such a model appeared in a recent fashion exhibit, and it was made of Chinese silk damask, and had a jacket to match. Its color was orchid, and every detall was carried out in the fabric (itself. Shantung makes attractive outfits of this type, and when a print is combined with a plain silk there is greater novelty. The background of the print may be the same as with it. They call them town and country ensembles, the little. silk outfits that are so very chic, but they travel well dnd assure the smart arrival of the wearer. They are variously assembled, some of them made up of a long-sleeved dress and a long coat, others combining skirt and jacket with a sleeveless blouse, or a sleeveless one-piece frock with the jacket coat. There is a varlety sufficient to the pur- poses of town and country life. A frock of printed silk crepe may have a coat of plain crepe, the coat in a dark color and quite suitable for wear with other sep- arate dresses. A 'little outfit in black and white, the jacket and pleated skirt made of pin-point dotted silk, white on black, has a blouse of 'white Georgette. The outfit for afternoon and early eve- ning is the next step onward and Fitti ITH every passing day the value of accessories is more definitely recognized. The decision as to the suit has buen reached, but there remains the task of selecting all the cos- tume details, which must har- monize, but need no longer match, in fact, they are less smart when they do. You, alone, can solve your particular problem, but there are suggestions as to the making of minor ensembles that may prove helpful. Hats, shoes, scarfs, handwear and handbaks, even belts and jewelry enter into the matter, and, the Parts Together curiously enough, one's make-up has become a part of the general result. It is rathér usual, even bromidie, to match one's handbag and shoes, but newness is apparent in an ensemble made up of bag, shoes and belt, all three of kidskin and in two colors, the now popular white and sun-tan. It is a sports ensemble, of course. Another sports idea has been brought to this eountry recently-- from Paris, as usual, and it com- bines a flat purse with a scarf, either string or triangle style. These pleces are made up from a wool material and they are very Three items with but a sihgle thought--smartness! The neck- lace is made of flat pieces of gun-metal, the gloves are gray, trimmed with cuffs that can be worn straight or turned back, and the slip- pers are patent and gun-metal, beautifully colored in gay sports| hues. Scarfs and hats are matched, and sometimes it is a three-piece | ensemble, including shoes. Two lor more accessories must be brought into harmony. | In the pictured group three ap- parently unrelated pleces are linked together--shoes, gloves and neck- | lace, and gun-metal is the basis-- they're calling it lustre, just now. | The shoes are patent leather with | lustre trim and the necklace is made of flat pleces of this metal. The gloves are gray. keeping to | the gray and black color harmony. | You will find ever so many of these | outfits already worked out for you. | Colored accessories make eve- ning frocks lovely--a white gown the basis. The odd off-white hues are specially attractive with sun- tanned skin, and the scheme may | be orchid, yellow or coral, jewelry ! repeating the color, likewise the | velvet evening wrap, the kerchlief | and the slippers, which are dyed to the correct shade. The stock- ings and complexion will be sun- tan--powder will take the place of | a real tan, when necessary. The Shoe of the Week We have been told, so many times, that nothing is quite as smart, this summer, as white, for it makes a perfect foil to the sun-tanned complexion. We have also been told that there must be white accessories for our white frocks and coats and suits. And to make it a rule of three, we have been told that there is no leather quite as smart as reptilian. Hence this newest shoe, of white lizard, which made {ts bow to a most appreciative audience, is sure to have a great popularity. It is oyster- white, of genuine lizard, and may be either pump or Oxford style. marks the entrance of formal | printed frock, the latter trimmed things into the day. A sleeveless chiffon dress will] have a coat of the chiffon, and] lace will be used in the same way. | The coat of the chiffon ensemble may be 'plain of color over a | costume though not to shoes, has| feathers. | with the plain material. Various combinations can be worked out. A New Color Combination A color combination, new to the made its appearance. They are showing white frocks to be worn with brown accessories, a brown jacket, a flannel or wool crepe, | brown and white shoes and a white | felt hat with brown band and JTH the thought ever in mind that the coat is the background of not only one, but several ensembles, one approaches the subject of this garment with an open mind. True it Is that many frocks have their own jackets, but that does not do away with the need for coats, one each of at least three types, if one's purse permits. For there are three coat types that stand out as in- dividual, each one to its own-- utility, afternoon and evening. The coat that you travel in, throw on over a sports ensemble, and use in any number of practical ways--that is the utility coat. It may be of covert cloth, of tweed, of flannel, or of jersey, but it will be distinguished by such details as cape, belt, pockets and all the little finenesses of fit and finish that are so effective. Coats of basket weave are the choice of many for this purpose, and they may be unlined. There must be a coat of basket- weave cloth in white or one of the pastel shades, to throw on over the light frock of sports tendencles. It may be unlined, and it will have a stitched edge, or it will be bound with grosgrain ribbon--one model has a braided edge. A heavy basket- weave toat in a heather mixture has a badger collar, and such a coat will prove indispensible to the traveler. Camel's hair is another favorite fabric. - From these utility coats we move on, by way of the silk coat, to the afternoon coat of panne or trans- parent velvet. Coats of crepe silk, in black or a deep navy blue, are popular for town wear, and while they can go everywhere the velvet Coats -- For Travel and Play | coat goes, they have the added advantage of going to some places that the velvet coat may not. They are not too dressy for the street, and the velvet coat is, the latter a "limousine" affair. An unlined coat of navy silk has |a deep cape and is very smart, while another has a scarf collar with long tie ends. The velvet coat for afternoon wear over a printed chiffon or silk will have details of importance. It will be quite cor- rect over the same frock for early evening roof dining--it is more versatile than tt may, at first, seem. It will be lihed with crepe or chiffon, and its color will be rich and beautiful. : Black will be included in the color range, and aqua green, beige, peach, orchid and the entire range of pastels and flower or jewel colors, so very lovely with a plain chiffon frock in white. One may increase the versatility of the vel- vet coat with another frock in the same color, but a different shade, as the coat. We are slipping, you see, by way of color, into the eve- ning mode, which also sets the seal of its approval on the velvet wrap. The evening wrap will be either taffeta, velvet or moire silk, and all three are beautiful. Some of the approved models are short, to show the lovely lines of the skirt beneath, and others are full length. They wear bows and tiers and scarfs, and incline to draped ef- fects. If two coats are the limit, then there will be a utility coat, and one of velvet, or, if you go out but little in a formal way, the silk coat may replace the velvet. nizes Two Main Frock Types Each Type May Have Its Sub-Divisions, But . The Underlying Characteristics Are The Same. All Types Are Characterized By Detail, And Nothing Is, Ap- parently, Too Unimportant To Esca) VEN 'when you consider each day a play-day, you will rec- ognize the sharply drawn dif- ference that exists in the dress mode. For when the game is one 'of physical prowess you are to wear sports togs, but when it is mental calisthenics, as Auction or Contract bridge, then you will be quite formally frocked, and your dress will have all the appurten- ances that belong thereto. There is a sharp line drawn between the linens, cottons and silks of active sports and the chiffons and laces o formal afternoon wear, but the line is less evident when the models are desi, d for spectator sports and set off against the silks approved for formal use. The former vary but little from the latter, the chief distinction being in line and detail. But in the two groups there are many subdivisions, purpose alone making them kindred models. The Tennis Dress Type. The dominant influence of the sports mode is the simple little frock that has no sleeves and is very low cut in back, and was first designed for the tennis player. Certain things have influenced fit, and the sun-tan mode has made it briefer than ever before. It is the best known sports type, and is to be had in so many different fabrics that it cannot possibly lack in ver- satility. Detalls vary in the many models. Dull silk is a favorite material, and perhaps the best liked weave is Shantung. There are ever so many silks of this kind, and then there are the linens that are so refreshingly crisp and cool appear- Ing. Little frocks of the latter fabric are exquisitely tucked and seamed, and may have hand drawn- work and embroideries. They are lovely of color, and are quite ap- propriate for other purposes than wear on the courts. In The Sports Manner An excellent example of a model that will serve as a link between the two modes is offered in satin. If you are planning to travel it will prove a life-saver, for it can | be worn any time at all with ap- propriateness. Black and blonde are preferred colors, and some of the satin dresses have lace or lingerie touches, and pleats, drapes and tucks, swathed hip-lines and yokes, and interesting capes and collars are details. In the same general group there are smart prints, planned for wear under the topcoat of covert or tweed, thus achieving an ensemble by putting one and one together, making one. Some of these printed frocks have pleated skirts and others show flounces, nor is the pe It | dipping "hemline missing from: the models sponsored. Bows and*tabs and any number of elaborations are carried out in the material of" which the dress is made. A Patterns Distinguish Types 3 The désign of the fabric is, often times, the key to its place in the mode. Small prints, dots and the like are less formal than the large flowered prints and other sprawly patterns. And it frequently hap- pens that some detail of a model is found in both the formal and the sports group, in which event lines and material must tell the story. Many details are vogues in ° themselves, and shadow the entire ' mode. Such a detail ts the cape, or some form of it. We are sensible of the fact that sleeveless frocks are the reigning fashion, and yet, we know that many may not wear them. Here the cape enters, and we find it on a sports dress of washable flat crepe--it is a spectator model, and it is pleated to match the pleated skirt. In some variation it is a part of plain nets and flowered chiffons and the ever popular laces. : | § Did You Know-- 4 HAT a most nonchalant littls cardigan jacket is being of- fered as the plece de resistance of smart resort wardrobes? This little affair 1s equally correct with a tennis frock, or with a blouse and pleated skirt. It is made of printed silk. THAT one of the most intriguing methods of decoration is applique? We have it used in so many differ- ent ways and on so many different things that it is, really, a vogue. Lace is applied to hat or kerchief, fabric and color to frocks, coats and footwear. THAT one of the best-liked sportswear fashions is the mesh lisle shirt? It comes in wmeveral models, one the "underwear" style that is patterned after an old- fashioned shirt. Then there {is the sweater type and 'the polo shirt, which has a collar. THAT there's a new summer necklace made of grains of colored rice? It's an odd conceit, and more than one color is used in the several strands that go to make the choker. Strands of the rice depend from the necklace and are tipped with tiny glass beads. THAT match-making is still the vogue, especially when it comes to handbags and shoes? A shoe of kidskin has a snakeskin vamp and the bag that goes with it is of the snake, with appliques of the kid- skin. * Calfskin and lizard are pop- ular combinations. 7 Hh, a) The age-old combination of a wool coat and silk frock." Buf the coat is collarless so that you may wear a fur piece on a chilly day, and the color combination is odd--a brown coat and a print in orange and blue.