The following text may have been generated by Optical Character Recognition, with varying degrees of accuracy. Reader beware!

Tre SAY. of [ASSAY EVENING GOWNS BY BARBARA WINSLOW NISL LL LL &F Length and a Graceful, Sweeping Silhouette-- Extreme Elegance and Feminine Details HE mode that is planned for evening hours {is more ad- vanced than any other. It is, of course, an indoor mode, and into it go delightful materials, rich colors, and themes that may never appear during the daylight hours. It is a try-out mode, in that it first adopts the new lines and the new details as thought out by those designers who originate our fashions. Acceptance or re- jection of these ideas in this mode determine their further use. Perhaps our first real impression of the evening mode is one of sameness, for there have, appar- lyj:been few: changes during a) iod of months. 'There is the same femininity, the same ele- gance, the same fluid lines with which we have become familiar. But a closer scrutiny reveals the fact that there are subtle changes, brought about by fabrics, colors and details. Apparently old themes still have possibilities, and radical change is not due. It is an interesting mode to dis- sect, and it is very far removed from the straight line types that were the foundation of the same mode a decade ago. Length, grace, sweeping lines and much of ripple and movement prevail, and the dipping hemline, dipped In back 'for preference, is a settled feature of this mode. This is called, for want of a better name, the pea- cock back, for it may touch the floor, in contrast to the short front. The Materials Are Luxurious Taffeta, moire and satin are the choice in materials with a "body" to them, and after these follow the chiffons, laces, tulles and nets. There 18, just now, rather a vogue for printed taffetas, lovely colors used against a background of cream or ivory. There could be no more feminine fabric in the eve- ning list, and it is adorably old- fashioned. There are, too, printed moires and satins, the latter soft and supple and drapable. Even though it may seem, at first glance, an extremely unspring-like color, black is the favored hue for evening frocks, and very specially, thin black materials. It must be perfect in line, and may be of lace, chiffon, tulle or net, the first two preferred. Generally speaking, chiffon is a favorite, beginning its duties - early in the afternoon. Many times the wrap chosen for the black evening frock is a bril- liant transparent velvet. If you are of an economical turn of mind, you will never be without a black frock for formal purposes. Somehow they are. perennial, these little models of lace and Georgette and chiffon, and it 18 .quite true that an out-of-date black dress seems more in the mode than one in any other color. Throughout the wardrobe this is always true, and the black coat is, this spring, a fashion leader, forming the perfect background for the new colors. Details Are Important » Just what the hemline, or the waistline, or the neckline may do ifs of the utmost Importance in this dress group. The 'first men- tioned is a detail that we always avatch with care and it was in the evening mode that we saw the first signs of the longer skirt which is definitely here. True, it was not longer all the way round, but an uneven hemline is always a pro- phetic sign, especially after we have had some seasons of brief skirts. The dip in back, growing con- stantly more pronounced was the forerunner of the ankle length skirt that is now making its ap- pearance--in the evening mode only. This dip continues, but drapes or some other arrangement of the fabric now dips at the sides, and this is newer than the lohg back, although not as often seen. Just what it foretells, if anything, we cannot say, but designers prob- ably have something definite in mind. Necklines Are Interesting We are grateful for the general tendency to vary necklines, as this line is by far the most important in the silhouette, when it comes to be¢omingness. In evening models, as in daytime offerings, we have a choice of the V-neckline, the square, the round and the U-line, and sometimes the line is very shallow in front and very deep in back. This fits into -the sun-tan mode that is the most pronounced mode of the moment. It will be seen that the new evenifig models are depending very largely upon the use of fabric for elaboration, although there are ap- plied trimmings on many of the new gowns. - The cape and the bertha are approved, and there is a generous use of the scarf, Tuck- ings and folds and even ruchings of the material are used, and many times the «ape or capelet is made to take the place occupied by the now famous "cocktail" jacket. Ribbon is being used extensively on evening frocks, and the beaded dress retains its popularity. Some- times it is beaded only sparsely, traceries, rather than all over pat- terns, and in this group we find the pailletted dress. Lace is much used as a trimming as well as a fabric, and attention must be called to the ensemble for evening wear. Coats of velvet, satin or moire are allied with frocks of chiffon or lace. THE PAJAMA BECOMES A CLASSIC F you associate the Pajama suit with lingerie qr with the boudoir, and with nothing else, then you are, indeed, behind the times. These trouser suits are now considered smart, in appropriate style and fabric, for the hostess, for lounging, for the beach and for the promenade, provided the latter is along the shore. And this type of THE PICTURES (1) The blouse does not mind a matching jacket. it is a feature of the newest ensemble idea to ally jacket and blouse, blouse and skirt, or jacket and skirt. Variety is thus achieved. The skirt in this model is red fiat crepe, the blouse and jacket white, flecked with red. (2) Satin and lace In a lovely Alice blue shade. The 'bodice seems even more simple than it is, when contrasted with the " gkirt of the frock. Tiered draperies write the lines that the designer dictates, and the effect is one of richness and :for- mality. Note the modernistic footwear. (3) An ensemble that makes use of the cape. Black crepe de chine is the material used for cape and pleated skirt, and white satin is the blouse fabric. spring's smartest color combination. cape and the long scarf collar (4) Sleeping clothes are becoming luxurious. ensemble is made of printed silk, the 1d For black and white is Deep fringes edge the arrangement. This pajama « y Leow Aarti and carried out in beige, tan, brown and red. With this print a plain beige crepe is used for the trousers, for bands, and for the bows that tie the jacket. (5) A sleeveless jacket has an amusing peplum. This little affair, worn over a frock in a fine printed pattern, is made of green poplin, and suggests the, newest detail of the mode, the long inactive peplum. and color for its smartness. It is a sports ensemble, relying on line (6) A combination of the modern and medieval. The high, rounded neckline and straight silhouette faintly suggest the latter, and the appliques of light-hued crepe, against the back- ground of black, are distinctly skirt is made of scalloped tiers. (7) It takes more than one item to assure chic. of tweed in a soft tan, the fabric as soft as the color, fur neckpiece, considered an caracul, and is part of the coat itself. smarter in all fashion than tweed. a The n The coat is# The ultra-smart detail, is of cocoa There will be nothing ensemble must be reckoned with as a come-to-stay fashion, which makes it a classic. Some of the offerings are gor- geously beautiful, many are prac- tical and lovely as well, and some are just droll! It should be said that ensembles in the latter group are decidedly individual, and be- long to the person who wears them and to no one else. They are pat- terned after interesting costumes that have been brought into wom- en's fashions from the very strangest sources, as you will see, Use determines the type chosen. The hostess will adopt a sult that has, perhaps, a long coat in Oriental style, of a deep purple cape, lined with gold, or red, and it will be worn over white satin trousers---a beautiful combination. It will have the wide sleeves of the Eastern garment, and it may or may not wear embroideries, Sometimes the outfit will be Turk- ish in its type, and trousers tied in at the ankles, or cuffs, without ties, are attractive. Satins, silks, velvets, crepes, all the luxury materials are used for the pajama suit that is worn in- doors. ' And fabrics of great beauty are used for beach outfits, although it is in this group that we find the really odd types. With the vogue for sun-tan there has been a demand for an outfit' that will permit the wearer to be sunburned, even if she does not go into the water, and the pajama lounging suit is the answer to the demand. Trousers and a shirt of some sort make tlge sunburn possible, and there will be a jacket for pro- tection when nrotestion is needed Trousers of royal blue satin have a coat to match, the former pat- terned after the trousers in a gob's uniform. With this suit is worn a tuck-in, sun-back shirt striped in gold, a neckerchief and sash to match, done in brilliant colors that harmonize, but are extremely gypsy-like in their effect. ' For the right type there {sth overall-smock suit, mad$ of ma- terial that resembles, in appear- ance at least, the work-a-day cos- tume from which the inspiration was derived. The smock is a print, and the neckline is round and the garment is loose. Wooden sabots carry out the theme. Probably there is no idea better liked in these type-ensembles than that of the American sailor outfit, with which Milady wears a gob's white hat. Sometimes the jacket above the trousers reminds us of a bell-boy"s uniform, and it is quite possible to carry out effects through the shape of the trousers or 'the lines of the over-jacket. Far the most part the shirt is a tuck-in, and is gayly striped, round and round, or, at least, bright as to color. One suit <een recently had a ftinv '"kick-pleat" at one side of the trouser, giving the outfit a decided Mexican slant. The Necessary Fur Scarf ITH the jacket suit an estab- (Jie vogue and the furless coat giving the coat with fur a real battle for supremacy in this mode, the scarf of fur is again an absolute necessity. It comple- ments both the suit and the coat perfectly, and is valuable with the separate frock, whether it be wool or silk, tailored, dressmaker or formal. And there are, of course, certain furs that are considered smarter than others. Leading them all is the silver fox, prohibitive as to price in many instances, but all the more desira- ble because of this fact. This rich, black, silver-flecked skin is very beautiful indeed with the black and white ensemble, and lovely with other costumes as well. Then there is baum martin--for the fair-haired woman, and sable, this latter expensive, too. Both Rus- sian and Hudson Bay sable skins are approved by the arbiters of our fashions Did You Know -- HAT the sleeveless mode, al- C ready prominent in fashion, covers itself with a wee jacket at times? You will find these jackets offered as a separate item, and among them there will be models in crepe, jersey, moire and flannel. Some are reversible, making two in place of one. THAT pearls are very much '"4n" again? And if you would be very smart, you will wear a drape pearl necklace, three strands the preference, in choker, or the smart | opera length. The return of these synthetic stone necklaces reminds us that we must watch tint and length. THAT the tailored suit, when fit exists as such, must have a fem- inizing lingerie touch? It is smart to use pique collar and cuffs on a novelty wool, linen on the softer wools, and the idea is further car- ried out by the use of the blouse that is made of a lingerie fabric. THAT one of the newest fash- fons to unite smartness with econ- omy is snakeskin footwear? It comes in beige or gray, and makes a practical shoe, and at the same time a usable one, for it harmon- izes with many colors and fabries. They are specially popular right now. ' THAT it is now smart to seek out colors that harmonize with your complexion, especially if it is tanned. One of the newest shades to be exploited in millinery, with this tan if mind, is turquoise blue, and felt is the material. Grosgrain or fancy pins trim them. THAT chartreuse is now ap- proved for the accessories to your evening frock, with, let us say, a white chiffon. Your shoes, of crepe de chine, will be dyed to a certain shade and your kerchief wil] match it, likewise your fan, if you carry one. An ultra-smart color, this. Refinement Through Detail ASHION critics have found that there is nothing very startling, as to newness, in the spring mode. In fact, we have kept pretty closely to certain themes for several seasons now. But were we to compare the mode of today with that of five years ago, we would find a decided daig- ference in practically every detall, for changes have been made in a gradual way that has not grated too sharply upon the sensibilities of the wearer. The present state of sophisti- cated charm has been reached by way of sharp flares, a varying waistline, necklines that were not too satisfactory, and so on through the list of parts that go to make up the whole. Today there is nothing of abruptness anywhere, just softness and grace and beauty. If a straight line bodice does not become you, then there is the bloused effect, or the line may be broken with frill, jabot, bertha, bolero or capelet. A detail may be placed where it is most needed, to create or dispel an fllusion that should not be there. There is no part of any garment that is left unfinished, even the sleeve pos- sessing wee buttons, a tie, or a cuff of lace or of fabric, to make it shape to the wrist. Designers seem inclined to spend a deal of thought on the finish of the neckline, which will follow the special line that becomes you most--square, round, irregular or V-shape. If your shoulders are slender, then the round line and a bertha would become you, but it your shoulders are thick, then some means will be found to de- tract from that thickness and to make your neck seem longer, all of which has much to do with becomingness. You. may have the added inch to your skirt length that you so much needed. You may have even greater length or semblance of fit, by the aid of panels, drapes, a dipping hemline. There is no line that cannot be remedied by some little twist or turn of the material, and fortunately materials are usa- ble. Pleats and tucks and folds and appliques are all used, and used with a purpose in mind, that purpose a general becomingness. Lingerie touches are extremely popular, and add much to any frock. Everything that the de- signer can think of is brought into use, and it is safe to say that a frock is only as good as its detafl, for that is the magic wand with which the designer touches her ! creations to charm. HAT ABOUT BLOUSES? HERE is no exception to the general rule that the blouse is exceedingly important in the wardrobe. Suits are the mainstay of every garment collec- tion, and where there are suits, there are blouses, and the latter give needed variety to the jacket and skirt combination. This is the ideal garment to carry out the first rule of the season's mode, contrast. And it uses both color and material to accomplish this worthy purpose. The new blouses take to them- selves frock details, and it is diffi- cult to distinguish the skirt and blouse from a two-plece effect in a one-piece frock. This, of course, when the blouse is a slip-over, for the tuck-in model is just what it is, and has no semblance of any- thing else. But only the slender figure can stand the latter, which is a revival of the shirtwaist, and belongs to the twWo-plece jacket suit and nothing else. Now there are blouses that con- trast only by the subtle difference of a shade or two, and there are those that present a sharp con- trast, and many times are darker, rather than lighter than the skirt. There are capes and bows, and fichus and scarfs and frills and surplice necks to be found in these blouses, and there are more tai- lored effects for the costume that still clings to a semblance of the strict tailleur, now being displaced. It is the dainty touch that makes the dressmaker blouse of the mo- ment, a lacing of the material, perhaps, done so cleverly that ore is puzzled as to the way it takes. Bows are used, and frills, and in a single collection of some scores of models hare the faintest resemblance to any other one. Fabrics in the group included prints and solid colors, and there were crepes, satins, linens, cottons and rayon substitutes. A simple model in a leaf print tied at the hipline, its colors ar- ranged to blend with the ensemble it accompanied. Another had a curious arrangement that was half bertha and half scarf, pulled through a buckle in front. And had a clever little collar and cuffs, of the material, scalloped and bound with white. A linen blouse, in an allover print, was belted and buckled with mother-of-pearl. A feminine frill dignified one and another inclined to tailored details by using fine tucks to form a yoke. Modernistic appliques, in two. or three contrasting colors was =a favorite elaboration, the designs quite as original as the use of unusual colors. : ¥ The Well-Dressed Hand =' another, of polka-dotted material, T is only logical that gloves | EX follow the same general lines as suits and dresses, which means that types are distinct, and what is correct with sports or town clothes will not do at all for after- noon wear. The hour and the occasion are declding factors In everything we wear, and it will not do to permit handwear a license that we do not accord headwear, footwear and all the accessories that go to complete the costume. That gloves are being worn rather more than for several years past, there is not a doubt. They are the final touch of formality that as- sures a perfect whole, and for the first time in many seasons the eve- ing glove is considered indispensi- ble. Tweed is the major woolen fabric and there are many ensembles made of it. With it we may wear the washable glove in Cavalier style, or the capeskin type that fastens with strap or thong and a leather button or a buckle. New colors are offered, among them the sun-tan shade, the beiges, a hue all of them neutrals." These adapt- able tones are imperative in a mode that runs to unusual colors, not easily matched. The jacket ensemble is a factor in the spring mode, and they are showing the classic suede slip-on for wear with this outfit, and the slip-on mousquetaire, and black and white are added to the color roster, The pull-on seems smarter when it is strapped, for it gives a better fit, and occasionally there is an ornamental clasp that is mod« ernistic, yet not out of keeping with the costume it adorns. Black slip-ons are lined with!white. French suede mousquetaire gloves are the choice for formal wear, and they are six or eight button length, preferably. Faint tones of pink--tea rose a popular color, the grays and eggshell are noted in this group, and there is a new ivory tone that seems to blend per- fectly with whatever costume f{t complements. Jeweled clasps are noted, With the now popular black and white Dostum. white gloves, with black stitching and known as tanbark. grav and mode, cuffs, are approved