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THEY ARE WEARING TWEED {1 ° Sy BAaArBARA WiNnsLOoWwW They Tell of Softness and More Fem- inine Effects--Brims Are Again in Fashion's Favor. HE writers of our hat fashions, urged by designers who would change the mode in a radical way, have been subtly sug- gesting the return of the large hat. 'While we expect this, as summer approaches, we have been asked to dethrone the small hat and give over the rule to the larger, more picturesque chapeau. And the re- sult is far from satisfactory to these makers of new themes, new trends, new modes. Nothing . will ever, we are con- fident, replace the small hat, for it possesses infinitely more smart- ness than any other type. But the brimless hat, and the type that we realize to be extremely "trying be- cause of its vagaries, these are be- ing replaced by hats that are, in a 'way, a compromise. There are still off-the-face models, but there are also many hats with modified brims and tiny brims that are uni- versally flattering. Right now we are concerned with the hat that is really a spring model, neither too summery, nor suggestive of winter fashions. As a result, the shops are full of novelties, and they combine felt and fabric with straw, although there are many all-straw offerings. The conservative woman will own a hat in the combination effect, and it will be, like her, a con- servative, that it may do duty at the fall between-season time. Hats Adopt A Silhouette With the necessity for variety which this new mode demands, there are scores of lines, many of them keeping to no real silhouette, but a compromise between two, even three. But in a general way we can classify, dividing the cloches, turbans, caps, bicornes and tricornes, into silhouette groups. And from the dozen or so approved types, we can find at least one that .is personally ap- propriate and becoming. Cloches vary their brims, 'but 'seldom their crowns. There is one approved silhouette in this type, the short-front line, and fit fis generally becoming. Then there is a 'cloche that has the fisherman silhouette, long in back as is the sou'wester. Another cloche is very short in back, and there are, of course, irregularities. In this group many women find any number of 'becoming shapes and lines. There are many off-the-face "models, and the vogue for sun-tan, fosters this type. There is the turban with wide sides, the little hat with a brim that turns up all the way round, the cloche with upturned brim in front, long sides and a pleated back, and the clever little Dutch cap effect. There are tricornes and Dbicornes, ruffled backs and shapes long on one side and short on the other, cut to suit the wearer. A Tendency To Change We expect changes in colors, lines and materials, so it remains only for us to define these changes, after a close study of models that express the newest trends. There are the approved linen-like straws, and others of a softness that makes |. them equivalent to felt in draping qualities, Drapable straws are, then, the newest note, and take their place with the fabrics that have, heretofore, been used this way. / They are draping felts and using little feathers to trim them--*fan- tasie de chasse," or hunt's feathers treatment, and straw hats, draped in the same way, have the same trimming. Dark hats have touches of color, and that color is repeated in a scarf that matches. Felt is combindd with straw lace, and either straw or felt hats wear colorful scarfs. Then there are three-color turbans of tissue jersey, tied, like a cap, in back. This idea of the tied turban is rather mew, and extremely smart. It may tie in back or at the side, and the use of more than one color is approved. They call these turbans variously--caps and ban- dannas, as they effect the likeness. Tricot and satin and a new braid are used, and it is only a step to the little beret made of grosgrain, tucked a bit. Ideal for wear with the between-season costume of the ensemble type. Noted Among The Displays There is no better way of sizing up a mode than to :visit the late displays. Suggesting the summer season, 'there are felt hats in the flower and fruit tones, among them primrose, periwinkle, rose, the ever smart, but hard-to-wear char- treuse, sand, white and red. Some of the felt models are shirred, achieving the off-the-face effect, and a poke-cloche, made of felt, is banded with straw, knotted clever- ly at one side. Then there is the gypsy model, possessing a certain gay charm that is irresistible. It is off one ear, off the forehead, but well down over the right ear, this movement accented by an earring ornament. This brim is double, and there is NYTer = SS ® i l AZ 2D é [Fe HFA, of [AST77Y EADLINES of the MODE Ed 14 bry ' S » © shirring--it's a creation! The Dutch bonnet is one of the hats of the - hour, a replica of the pic- turesque Holland headdress, pos- sessing pert little ears that may be worn extended, or folded back against the head. 'When brims are long at one side, it is the right side, and. in respect to the sun-tan mode the off-the- forehead effect is smartest. Straws are important, and they are versa- tile, crushable, supple, luxurious Felt and straw is a favorite com bination. - Ribbon, feather pads and pins are trimming notes. Bows and inserts are noted. A hat, to be smart, must be a thing of clever manipulations, done by a really skilled designer. VERYWHERE you turn you 'hear gbout the new tweeds, . which are not alone sports ' rics, but decidedly formal ni 5 They are not the tweeds 'of old, heavy, dull, practically col- orless, as compared to the fabrics of today, but soft, supple, silky textured, and almost as workable as silk or crepe. Nor are they the precise weave with which we are most familiar, for they have im- proved as the mode has advanced. If the old-fashioned weaves are to be found, it will be in real sports togs, those designed for practical bard wear, although the new tweeds wear well, quite as well as ong may wish. This ma- terial is made up into coats, frocks and suits, and the separate coat of tweed, for general utility purposes, is a wardrobe necessity. Both long and three-quarter length coats offered, and jacket suits, as well. It is just the right season for an ensemble that will combine silk and wool, the former used for frock or blouse, thé tweed used for a coat, or for a jacket and skirt. The Avenue, no matter where it may be located, will be thronged th models in tha varinne waoewas and colors, And ever so many com- binations will be carried out. They began to wear the little jacket suits under fur coats, soon after: Christmas, ~~» | EES The small-patterned tweed is important, and it may come in blue or mauve, and have for its blouse a matching crepe or white, trimmed with a deeper tone of the tweed. Or it may be a brown mixture and the blouse a print-- keeping to brown, with color. Then there are some adorable beige tweeds, and nothing is smarter for the blouse than eggshell--there can be a touch of deeper brown and chartreuse, if becoming. Spring witnesses the usual out- pouring of color, and so we have colored tweeds, and there is a flair for tweed ensembles in the re- strained pastels, as yellow, with faint black checks, blue with gray, beige with yellow--there are ever so many combinations. For the sports ensemble there will be a slipover jersey blouse, and a car- digan, but it will be noted that vivid colors have passed, and the softer tones prevail. There will stirely be one tweed was_a. eombination 4 frock of tweed, worn with a seven- merit tn avame szavdrnha and ana af the favorites at a recent showing a binati of sleevel eighths coat to match. Rivaling this, there was the jacket suit, tweed skirt and jacket, worn with a tuck-in blouse. Another suit had a short, sleeveless cape jacket, a front-pleated skirt, and a lace- striped jersey jumper to complete it. There are so many different weaves that designers differentiate, these days, and insist upon a cer- tain type of tweed for a certain purpose. A tweed ensemble with three-quarters length coat uses yellows, and the blouse is of jersey, plain in tone... And, quite new, it has cap sleeves. Another ensemble uses printed silk for the frock and tweed, in the same general colors, for the coat that comes to the hem of the frock. 3 One novelty suit, youthful in the extreme, and practical only for the slender woman, has a blouse of men's wear broadcloth, the skirt buttoned up onto the blouse. There is a scarf in two shades of the broadcloth to finish the jacket, Another model prefers the slipover -cidedly so. blotise. makes it of dersev, and trims it with bows. 'The coat of this ensemble is' three-quarters length, severely plain and collar- less. We may even go so far as to say that some of the new tweeds are formal, for they are and de- Soft and silky, they come from abroad, and they step boldly out to town and to tea, complemented with gay blouses, smart furs and jewelry. There is a printed frock, or the usual jacket- skirt-blouse combination, the latter a 'dressmaker' affair, meticulous in its details, and beautifully tai- lored and finished. They are bestowing their favor on cap-sleeve blouses, these ladies of fashion who are selecting tweeds. Bright colors, too, are their choice, and when they prefer a frock of silk, the print matches the tweed, that is, in colorings. Jabots ap- pear, they are sleeveless, there are berthas, and many dress details are applied to the blouses, as well. Coats are unlined, made with. a selvage-seam edge. Hosiery is again featuring ¢lox, and the smartest version is the spiral. This means that you will watch your right and left in' stock- ings as well as shoes for the wind- ing, diagonal line, slender though it may be, must wind in exactly the right direction ar ha wrane! HP a 'COATS~ ia excellent evidence of the aportance of a thing, when it ppears in a wide variety. And it happens, this season, that coats show an unprecedented di- versity--and so many unexpected twists and turns that they cannot be rigidly classified. One can only gather a few generalities, then launch into a description of the most attractive of the many mod- els that are offered for every im- aginable purpose. Certain rules must, however, be obeyed. First, the silhouette must be straight line, except for after- noon and evening wear. It is the same with sleeves, indeed, it may be generally stated that the tai- lored coat is the sports, or town, or travel coat, and elaborations be- long to formality. Materials keep to the same general classification --tweeds and woolens are informal choices, the silks approved for aft ernoon. Colors are conservative, and black is stressed, although tweeds for sports wear, and other mate- rials as well,e seem to like color. And it will be noted, as we pro- ceed, that the trend toward for- mality has effected even the most conservative of utility coats, as is evidenced in a straight line coat that scorns buttons and ties, at the waistline, with a ribbon! And some tie at the neckline, as well, Utility coats have relegated fur to the formal coat mode, and in- cline to collarless effects, to scarf collars and to capes. are double breasted coats, there are some few that use fur, but the newest models do mot. Details further carry out the feminine effect, and the patch pocket, long a hall mark of the utility coat, is heine renlaced he tha est-in noarket NEW AND IMPORTANT that is less conspicuous. A real sports coat is made of English fleece, plaid-backed, tai- lored in the approved English manner, double-breasted, patch- pocketed and buttoned with leather buttons. Camel's hair is another sports fabric that is well liked, and the exception to the general rule of a fur-less coat is found in such a coat that has a brief collar of beaver, kit fox or raccoon. There is a smart suede leather belt, 'When we approach formal coats we run into a perfect maze of de- tall, fabric, color and line. Black, black and white, the new galyak fur, leopard, ermine and other sleek, flat furs, scarfs, dressmaker details, capes and the like. But certain things are bound to stand out as smartest, among them the black coat and the black and white, ermine providing the latter touch ii many instances. Color, when it exists, is most flattering, inclining to the soft grays and blues, and the lovely new beiges. There is an amazing difference in silhouettes in the formal coats. Some show the side flate, and some go so far as to apply ruffles, adopt- ing dress lines and details. Then there is the coat with tiers, the one with a "back flare, the cape silhouétte, and the model that per- mits a belted effect. Nor is the straight line coat 'missing, just others are newer, and for the moment, smarter, for formal oc- casions. : Never have capes been 'so impor- tant. The cape collar, the bertha, and hip-length capes are featured, and there are half-capes and straight, full affairs that are ex- ceedingly jaunty. Scarfs play roles of prominence in blouse, frock and touches on otherwise uninteresting models, Collars come in for at- tention, and are military-like, choker effect, dropped--of fur and fabric. Cuffs are brought into prom- inence, and they are, sometimes, of fur, even when there is nothing of fur elsewhere on the coat. Squirrel, galyak, krimmer, broad- tail, mink and ermine are ap- proved furs--the shorter and sleek- er, the better. Materials include the basket weaves and broadcloth, and must be of a sort that will take tuckings, stitchings and other manipulations, also fall softly in tiers and ruffles. To Give it E are accepting this newest (©: of Spring, 1929, and giving it little thought, except, perhaps, to approve of its versatile charm. But it is, really, an evolu- tion, a growth that has been ten years in the making, for elegance and distinction do not spring into being overnight, or between sea- sons. Fashion is a feminine, har- monious, individualized thing, and certain things are responsible for it. Color, line and fabric all contri- bute. Odd colors, and equally odd combinations of them--witness, the new, and extremely hard to wear chartreuse, that peculiar yellowish green that is so effective in com- bination with blue or black, par- ticularly the latter. It is a vogue, black-and-chartreuse, and if you have color--all your own; you can probably wear it, but be sure, for it is deadly, if unbecoming. A slender silhouette with low- placed fullness, and movement, the skirt of the frock decidedly longer, and apparently fuller, these are contributing factors to the new distinction. The new technique, known as "dressmaker" locks out for finish, fit and details. The sug- gestion of molding, known as Princesse lines, is another aid, and a general appearance of supple- ness, length and slimness, aids also. Then there is special attention paid to the waistline, which is, for ance, at least. A suggestion of a fit is responsible for it, perhaps it is tucking or stitching that does it. Something vital in the silhouette in general is charming, a trickery that bespeaks the master's hand, apparent even in the inexpensive copy of the expensive model. For- the most part, normal in appear-|/ And now--the individual models that show us how varied is the coat mode. A coat with a stole collar and bow of galyak fur--the fabric broadcloth; a straight line, seamed coat with a collar 'of soft mole--in shades of gray, a flared coat with a collar, shawl-wise, of monkey fur, these are examples. And utterly charming, a coat of supple broadcloth with a Tuxedo collar of galyak fur, taflored to lie flat on the coat. Do not be deceived by the seem- ing simplicity of a coat, for it is, in all probability, a dressmaker model, achieved 'by subtle darts and tucks and fittings, by an un- usual shoulder line, a drape, that does not appear as such. This spirit makes it possible to tie the neckline with ties of ermine fur, to bind with galyak fur, as with fabric, or to pleat this lovely supple pelt, as though it were fabric. Distinction 1stimctio mality is another item. It becomes more and more ap- parent with every new mode, in- creasing between the going-out of one and the coming-in of another. Late afternoon models are being stressed, and this formality begins with the luncheon hour. 'Boleros, jackets, the ensemble theme, bows, peplums, printed materials, tiers, ruffles and pleats; all these, and besides, that something we may not define, known as originality, con- tribute. Did You Know -- HAT the fabric hat is making a determined bid for the posi- tion that has long been occu- pied by felt? Crepe de chine and satin are favored for the insistent turban, and belting ribbon and tricot are often used. Thew are .even showing linen hats, and all . are finely made. - THAT there are frocks classed as '"tea-dancing" models being shown in the shops? They appear from two until six in the afternoon and are fashioned of soft, fluttery chiffons, quite generously trimmed with delicate laces in {ivory or cream white. They are long as to sleeves. THAT belting ribbon is: now classed as a dominating théme' in the fabric world of fashion? Hats and bags are made of it, as a mat- ter of course, but its newest ex- ploitation is as a part of the frock, where it makes both collar and revers. White on black, eggshell on black or blue. THE PICTURES (1) Felt is quite as popular as it has ever been. There are many hats of this material, in colors or in black or white, ok mode. The and they show all the idi is artificial? braid in gray dnd white. quills of black and white, be very popular this summer. (4) © lar t distd of the m brim of this model is irregular, the wider right side stressed with two bows. Its color, chartreuse. (2) One must be just the right type for this hat. - The feather trimming makes it, along with the color combination. The hat is ballibuntl straw in a soft brown, and the feathers are robin's egg blue, flecked with the same brown. We wonder if the curl (3) The old, well-loved combination, black, white and gray. The hat itself is 'black Baku straw, tri The combinati These linen-like straws are sure to with a two-tone is d with ish the mew coats. They are its general silhouette. ing its inspl One +4 and red fancy straw. from the Napoleonic era! of the tricorne, done in white of the more conservative over-the appropriate to certain types, but found only rarely in the type of wrap that is known as sports or utility. This model is fash- ioned of jersey knitted with synthetic yarns, and is simple in They offer of the sufficient in ears, but off-the-fs nor is it small. The silk 1, a rose, str ically pl particular model. itself and wise enough to know ft. (6) And once again we have the question, large or small? This model' is something of a compromise, for it is neither very large, used as an under-brim or half-brim, is faille, and there seems need of nothing further than the (7) The white coat has a real place in summer fashions. It may be of broadcloth, a basket-weave wool, flannel, or some novelty weave, but it will incline to tailored details. Odd pockets, & scarf collar, and stitching are the distinguishing features of this roat mods and thev are clever