Oshawa Daily Times, 22 Mar 1929, p. 18

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RG en * new models po THE OSHAWA DAILY TIMES, DAY, MARCH 2 1929 Just the other day we made a very thorough tour of the fashion haunts of the town. We looked at all the new clothes the designers have originated for women and some- flow we felt that in no branch of fashion is there such scope for var- iety as in hats, In a measure, we had the feeling that the hat can .be the most important feature of a cos- tume. Haven't you often seen a perfectly stunning woman spoil the effect of her whole app arance by wearing the wrong hat? Or per haps wearing the right hat in the wrong way ? ; Thus it is that the hat is so im- portant. It is the frame for your ace and tends to bring out your individuality more than any other article of apparel you wear. If your 'eyes, for one reason or another, need framing, select a hat with a tiny brim. We talked with several mil- linery stylists and they were of the opinion that many women exagger- ate the importance of the brim. The natural line is a beautiful one, for it outlines the shape of the head, thus bringing out every beautiful line, Perhaps the millinery designers got their inspiration from the nation- al headdress of the orientals . . . for the little turbans we mean, that are to continue so important for spring. We had such a grand and glorious time going about the millinery shops of the town, gazing upon the brand y they are showing for spring, that we dislike to take this thrill away from you by giving you ell the inside information before- hand, And yet, we think that you would be interested and so, let's go on... A hat that is worn high on the brow is the really newest important development in spring millinery, Of course it is a very extreme fashion after wearing so many hats at least down to the eyebrow, but it is very smart and decidedly new and is par- ticularly becoming to the great ma- jority of women, Sknough at first they do find it a little difficult to be- come familiar with gecause it is such a decided change from the old style of millinery that was worn down on the forehead. This new type is to be had in both brimless and brimmed models. In the latter types the brim is placed at an angle high on the forehead. The millinery silhouette of long on the sides and lengthened in back is another important feature, for it is to be seen in all the shops. No doubt the up in front and down in back skirt has had a diréct in: fluence on this style. Spring is the season of straws and this season they are expected to be overwhelmingly popular, even more so than the spring of 1 Felts are destined to hold second place in the mode and these are the soft, supple felts that come from France. The most important straws noted in the shops are Ballibuntl, Baku, Sisol, Perle Visca, Crocheted Visca, Neora Braid (Paris Meme), Cellophane, Yedda, Swiss Hair, and Milan. With- out a doubt Ballibuntl is to be the most popular straw, with Baku given second place. .Sisol is next in line, and then Visca aud Paris Meme, For those who desire something novel in the way of spring hats there are felt and straw combinations. We saw many creations with felt lined brims and many felt bands encrusted into crowns in new and novel ways. There is a brand new straw that is being introduced this season called Japanese Bangkok. As a rule it orms the entire hat, but in a few cases it is combined with felt. An- other famous milliner in Paris who -- has a reputation for hand embroid- cred hats evidently has influenced the mode to no small extent toward embroidered hats, She sent some img portant material ot this country an the manufacturers here have copied these with great success. They are satin, grosgrain, georgette and, in the straw line, petaline, The thing that interested us most in the hats for spring is the individ- uality in the making of the hat. Without a doubt there is more work- manship than ever before in the mil- linery modes for spring. The hats have been so plain for so long that it is evident that smart femininity is looking for adormment in her chap- peaux. That is why, perhaps, more youthful hats candidly acquire elab- orate treatment in manipulation and trimming is applied in a very clever and subtle way, while for the matron there are types a bit more sophisti- cated, both in their trimming and in their silhouettes, There is a youthful hat that Rabou originated, developed in a pale pink ballibuntl with very wide side rae with absolutely no back brim.at all and the front brim is crushed back on the crown and is held securely in place by a flat black satin ribbon bow of many énds. The brim is piped in satin, We saw an adorable white balli- buntl in a small shape with the front brim tightly rolled back to the crown base, giving the effect of no brim across the front and held in place by a little tie of the ballibuntl at each side front. And we saw another adorable tailored shape in black bal- libuntl, It had a front brim that was slightly rolled and the brim was wider and drooped on the sides with no back brim, We saw several hats with the ruffled back brims. Onc was a black felt with a shirred crown base at the back to make the ruffle brim effect, . At no season of the year are the millinery shades as lovely and as flattering as those of the springtime. This year beige is to be a very im- portant shade 'and all the various shades of blue and lovely greens will bé worn. Red and yellow are also important millinery shades for spring and, of course, black will always be with us. The idea of using three col- ors in one hat, which originated in Paris during the recent openings, is to be seen in some of the most im- portant new hats in the shops. A little tri-cologed skull cap that we saw combined brown, beige and chartreuse felt in a dafing unusual manner. It is interesting to know that the straws this spring are manipulated much in the manner of felt fabric. The longer side and the longer back brim are both important. Alphonsine has given us a medium large fashion of taffeta in light blue and the dark shades of blue as well as black, We saw one granuing hat that was inspired by Reboux of black baku with the turned-up front brim that. was faced with pink taffeta closely shirred. Then there were pink and black grosgrain ribbons placed around the hat and tied high at the front. Every woman cherishes the ambi- tion of owning a Paris hat, but this is very difficult, for as we all know a Parisienne has a hat made on her head by her own pet milliner. She #must have her hat fitted, adapted, and trimmed before a mirror and before her discerning eyes. She studies it from cvery angle, adding this and changing that, Nothing is left to chance. She considers her hat fittings just as important as the fit- tings for her most elaborate gown. LEADING FASHIONS IN GAUDY COLORS Drab Hues Not Listed In Styles For The Current Year Milwaukee, March 22. -- Even the sainbow would be envious of the col ors of the spring and summer ap- rel introduced in an advance show- g during the Midwest Market week style court at the Hotel Schroeder. Drab and funereal hues have been re- placed by startling contrasts; even urs for neckpieces were of black and white fox, ' The style court had variety. There were bathing suits, a bit more abbre- viated than ever, with designs and color running from polka dots to a |" many hued spider web creation. Beach pajamas ranged from scarlet to chaste blue. ' Nor were the color and clever de- signs limited to afternoon frocks and formal gowns, Singlant and rayon have taken on the class of their more expensive rivals. Aprons and house dresses were shown that almost out- smarted a lot of evening gowns, Hats and coats of prints matched the dress. The kitchen dress has stolen a lot of ideas from sport clothes. ' There were sport clothes, bright- ly hued raincoats, unbrellas of silk and rayon, sweaters, jackets and aviation togs, all colored. Cloche and turban 'hats had the feminine hearts fluttering and the husbands groaning. Purses matched hats. Then as a com- promise between bare legs and fuil stockings there was a showing of the new half hose ranging from stripes for sports wear to shoe top size sock- lets for "beach bathing." In the ensembles brown and tan predominated, Among the coats shown were novelties of lamb that had lost the original hue and grad- uated into soft tans, Milwaukee models thoroughly dem- onstratetl that the 1929 miss could go back 70 years and still look well, with bustles, hoop skirts and all. Hats collected by the Wettendorff- Neubert company, covering styles for the last century, were shown with dress of the period. Hats perched perilously on the head and ruffles and puffs were in startling contrast with 1929 fashions, Short Hair Expresses she Woman of Today "They let it grow, painfully, awkwardly, through the straggly- over-the-ears stage. They stay with: it until it reaches the should- ers, even at the cost of a few fas- tidious beaus. They buy a puff and throw away all their hats. Then the first thing you know they are sitting in the chair again ask- ing for a reshape. "Short hnir, shaped according to the natural contours of the head best expresses the woman of today, a fact which fashionables resign- ed themselves long ago." This is what a famous coiffeur, shared by New York and Paris, has to say about the current mode in 'hair-dressing: Debutantes, actresses, poetesses and prima donnas, lét tnen ue grow long, off and on, for the sake of individuality. Yet, actually, there are more ways of arranging short hair than long, says this ar- tist at shearing, pruning, twisting and curling. The hairs on maa- ame's head may be brief and few, but these can be modeled to the head, just as a sculptor molds his clay to bring out character, temper- ament, personality, he says. For the trim, smartly dressed woman of almost any age, a rather longish haircut built on the foun- dations of a 'permanent' is ad- vocated as practical and almost universally becoming. The hair is parted on the side and cut so that the loc which falls over the forehead is much shorter than the sides, a kind of glorified bang, Over the ears the hair is thinned out to avoid a fuzzy bulbous look, but at the same time left thick enough to soften the profile. At the back there {is a swirl line achieved by cut and curling. TR Spgs 0 DN/ / PLANBOYCOTT UPON STYLES OF PARIS italian Society Women Band Together to Set Own * Fashions Rome, March 22--A number of Ro- man society women, ificluding many of the foremost Italian aristocrats, have banded together under the lea- dership of Princess Boncompagni Lu- dovisi di Piombino, wife of the gov- ernor of Rome, to evolve, promote and support a purely Italian style in women's fashions, ' . To set an- example, they all bind themselves to wear no clothes which are not made in Italy by Italian workers with Italian materials on Italian designs. Many are keenly looking forward to seeing them ap- ear on the streets in their all-Ital- 1an clothes. Their work is cut out for them if they really intend to gbtain the adop- tion of new Italian fashions in op- osition to Paris fashions which ave held sway in the affections of all smart women throughout the world for so long. Of course, in some out of the way places in Italy women still wear the traditional costumes which have been handed down from genera- tion to generation and which may be called a purely Italian style. They usually consist, however, of heavy pleated skirts made of thick woollen material encasing the lower limbs from the waist to the . heel. Elaborate corsets, usually worn ex- ternally, constrain the upper part of ture never intended. Curious head- dresses and strange blouses with puf- fed sleeves are also features of this type of dress, MUCH WANTWORK ON NEW LINGERE Pastel Shades Emphasized in New Lines Light weight materials such as crepe de chine, georgette, and triple voiles,, in - contrast to the heavier fabric, such as crepe satin, are indicated in spring lin- gerie collections, Although crepe satin is shown for spring in a few models such as sleeping pyjamas and an occasional chemise, it is important as a spring fabric in these garments, Georgette comes next to crepe de chine in importance in develop- ing nightgowns, slips, chemises, and bandeau sets, as well as for Wf iwaming on crepe de chine, A vorite 'combination for night gown ensembles is a matching georgette coat with erepe de chine or crepe satin gown, Ninon is mot shown extensively tions. aA TR WA TURBAN OF CLOTH IS FASHION RIGHT The courturiers are getting themselves more talked about witn every season, They will persist in women's bodies into shapes that na- | Dainty Cut and Treatment I but it is found in several eollec-| il | putting out delectable little fash- fons, as well as big fashions, which the chic cannot discreetly ignore. Agnes is among the most indefatigable, and this year it is her turbans that cause a flurry. On the head, the bright angora turbans which she originated look pleasantly similar to colored figs, they fit so trimly. Crepe de chine and tricot turbans are fashions of a little later date. J ( 0 \ GEORGINA BLACHFORD SHOE = Cnc. . : Moderne . . . Youthful the new Georcmva Shoes smartly ex % press the Spring Mode . . . captivate Footwear. oo € an exclusiveness that will be gratefully 8 appreciated by all who seek beautiful A A Our store is ready to help you . . & our new stocks are in . . . come in and see the new Gr~~3INA Styles. | ) than CX Simcoe St. North Hose of Sophisticated Smartness $1.50 our slipper heel hose their. fine silken weave, tering fit and Th Anything as important in the feminine wardrobe as hosiery demands the very best and smartest available -- such as with flat- fashionable shades--flesh, chamois, beige, tawny, turf, . moonlight. Sizes 81% to 10%. Pair Tecumseth, suntan, sunburn and gunmetal. $1.50 French heel and fancy heels. Pr. Sheer Chiffon, full fashioned. $1.75 .,. silk to the top. Pair Service weight, full fashioned Spring shades. Reg, $2.50 for, $1.98 Hosiery and Lin Women's Silk I! ¢ 534 to 73%, Pair ............ sonimee wiriensen French Kid Gloves SELECT YOURS NOW AND AVOID THE EASTER RUSH Gloves are of fine French kid in smart styles of the mode, excellently finished with tailored or fancy turn back cuffs embroidered in toning or contrasting shades, Colors include beige, cham- pagne, beaver, brown tones and white. be |. Sizes Lovely to the eye, a truly remarkable with no more care sheer. X Styled in the mode's preferred colorings. Pantees with special snug-fitting cuffs--charming negligees--smartly designed paja- mas and ensembles. --at moderate price. lovely to the touch--undersilks are made of rayon fabric. You can tub and iron them than you give to silks much less fine 'and Everything you seek in lingerie loveliness Lingerie RL pies, to harmonize with the Spring costume, 98¢ up to $3.50 F ATKIN"S Hosiery and Lingerie. Shop 1% Simcoe Street South : Phone 162 Silk Scarfs In the smartest designs and colorings Fine Crepe de Chine and Georgette Scarfs in square and panel and triangle. Domestic nd French creations. Special $1 00 - BER ---- LB gre . appar { suit | | ton st 119217, dies in "The Wrolig,

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