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THE DAILY TIMES ' ory 'Strong Favor is Accorded the Small Hat in Winter and Pa'mBeachModels-- | Nothing Rad.callyNewAs Yet. HE general term applied to ions of the moment is the metallic | winter millinery is the one| hat, that is inexpressibly gay with | word, "Highbrow," for it Is: the dark-toned fur The characteristic of the models pn 54615 are close-fitting, with gold, in use at the present time to reveal oo. 00 creel embroideries against the forehead, in direct contrast 10, 5 background of vivid color, blue, the hats of other seasons that have purple, green or some shade of been worn pulled down over the red. The helmet type is popular, forehead. And while we are being but there are models that incline gradually intrpduced to the models to the cioche type for the woman that will thrive at the winter re- who cannot wear the hat wholly sorts, we arg not asked to make | Liihout a brim. radical changes--yet! Ey --- It is a season of on with the new, coal, n Winter and vf | | but not, necessarily, off with the old, for we have long since passed the stage where we adopted a straw hat immediately after Christmas, and wore it with a fur coat and | galoshes. We yleld to the new' lines that make their first appear- ance in Palm Beach models, but we apply those lines to materials that are suitable to our surround- ings and the balance of our ward- robes. The transition from one season to another is carried out through the medium of satin and belting ribbon, or some other fabric that 4s neithor as heavy as velvet and ¥eit or as distinctly summery as straw. Although in justice to winter materials it must be said that they are. oftentimes, quite supple as satin, and only a little heavier. Pliability is imperative, no matter what the material chosen. A Medley Of Models Results This meeting of summer and svinter, the former a spurious sea- | son. so far as the stay-at-home je! concerned, means that the choice! is unlimited. and one can hold | strictly to winter fabrics, or proph-| esy spring through her hat choice. | Berets, toques, helmets, cloches, the new "gigolo" shapes, and mod- els that cannot be classified abound, | and the range of materials runs from fur and hatter"s plush through | satin to straw. | Let us consider, then, the offer- | ings that are of the moment, with- | out regard to the season they mark. And we will begin with the | models in Austrian soleil, beauti- fully soft and supple, and worked | entirely by hand in the manner | that Paris approves. They come in| all the newest styles, are brimmed | as or brimless, and trim themselves | small muffs that match the neck-| pleces. | THAT a new color idea has been | introduced in evening Rowley | a | -- A | vances? | to mateh. Your shoes will match the lining of your skirt, which shows in the dipping of the irregular hem, or! they will match the lining of the | evening wrap, in faet, all, three, | {dress and wrap lining and foot- | wear may match. THAF handbags are growing in the Shops INDOW shopping Is great ©: these days. First, there will be a display of garments ucsgned for the land of snow and ice, then an array of up-to-the- minute models planned for imme- diate use in town, and after that, a window of Palm Beach togs, & | prophesy window that foretells our northern spring. And you'll vision the seashore at the bathing hour, the country club when tea is more luxurious as the season ad- | served, the Casino when the dance of the] This is a result | tendency toward formality frocks and wraps, for materials] are luxurious and demand details Velvets, brocades, petit | noint embroideries and silks are | featured. A AAA A tint TAA f men SICLY A707 CA)" i. have come into a new era of dress, of art, and of thinking, and the one word | { that covers it all is "mod- ernistic." Influences have been at work, but we are concerned, not so | much with those influences as with | their ,results. To accept modern art one must think in the modern way, otherwise it is not to be un- derstood at all, and there are times, ! even if we think modern that we do not comprehend the modern | | expression. Everywhere one turns she new influences working. New York skyscrapers have taken on new lines and silhouettes, so that when they appear against a background | of sky they are the expression of the new thought in architecture and the adjustment of necessity to the era. In every industry this fact appears, and textiles, potteries and designs in general prove this. It is the art of the twentieth cen- tury. Fabrics, lines and colors enter into the new scheme of things, and! .| the new scheme effects house fur- * nishings, the wardrobe, and all the incidentals and accidentals that | have to do with them both." They are using old materials. in new ways, and are finding new materials | for old uses. and are stressing the importance of design, carried out through angles, curves and other finds | geometric principles, strengthening or are accented with a touch of decoration that is in keeping with | the general mode. In every collection we find eit, | Linking the two seasons together soleil and welvet, the two former! we have the hat of felt that is | the fur coat or the fur collar on! as a new little skull cap preferred for the hat that is made | satin trimmed. Usually the hat | on the head. colors are represented, and they are cut with a thought of the huge | fur collar into which they must! iphon, Perhaps there is a rakish | discreetly disappear. In some of | ine that reveals one eye and con- | the models we note trims that are |ceals the other. but you may be 2 bit wider, crowns that are a bit gure that the lines are as smart | higher and a tendency to pinch | 54 the combination of materials | the crown. The brim lies close to | proves to be. The contour of the the neck in back. | face decides what direction the For Wear With The Fur Coat |lines,shall take. | One of the most successful fash. | Mention must be made of the | slashed. or bent, or folded, and ! held in place with a twist of satin | fur hat, or cap. that will match: the cloth coat. Usually the model | Black and the smart | itself is made on the head, then |is cap-type, and broadtail, Persian | little affair, Lut the ribbe lamb and krimmer furs are typical. Then there are caps that use knotted tricot, Persian lamb tricot, or some other novelty material, very smart and young looking, and very carefully made. These caps appear in all of the strong tones that are such favorites. Materials That Are Prophetic | They are.doing some really mar] DESIGNERS THEW TO THE LINE" for several seasons. . When it dis not applied trimming or seaming, it 4s the material itself--say a stripe or a check, that achieves the effect. Verticals, horizontals, dlag- onals are all approved. and inter- est in the new mode centers in the direction taken by lines. Skirts are complicated things, and while they seem to begin their lications well down toward . IGURES" are back again, and that is 2 fashion note of real importance, 2a mote that the woman who aspires to smart- mess cannot afford to disregard. Any analysis of a model that ap- peals as tempting will reveal the fact that its desirability is a pesuit of lines, and not merely graceful, pleasing lines, but lines that follow the figure, for like it or mot, there is an ever increasi d to mold the silhouette. the hem, there is much ingenuity It is little short of marvelous) displayed in the approach! The what menipulation of lines will do. | hipline has a very great deal to The most simple effect is achieved [do with the distribution of the through this manipulation, which | fulness that appears somewhere in) is intricate and hard to copy as the | the skirt 'well below that hipline. amateur dressmaker will learn. | Fulness is no longer merely The ways of the seamings and achieved, it is subtly achieved, and bandings and cuttings of the fabric | grace is the result, and the inhdi- are many, and it is, frequently. a | viduality that is imperative. puzzle to study out how the band- The 'effect is one of animation, ing or the scarf end. or the drape | rather than width. There is more or the Mflounce reached just the | of restraint apparent. It is obvious position it holds. | that the smartest coats for spring Hiplines or waistlines are swathed, | will follow straight lines, and yet. with more than a hint of the many designers have put forth princesse, indeed, this word fs in | models that suggest the fit-and- danger of being overworked, and flare, achieved, sometimes, by mere- # mo lomger whispered, as it was! ly belting in the waistline at the | begins its rule | ing to achieve a fitted waistline. normal line. Amy width starts, in| this silhouette, at the beitiine, and | is not introduced lower down in the i silhouette. i One may mot minimize the im- | portance of the diagonal line, which ! in materials and! extends it through cut to trim- | mings. And lest there be mistakes | made in this presentation of the | tendency to stress lines, be it known that any coat that is used over a skirt that features width must have, at least, width enough to cover it. More fabric is the solution, and the privilege of belt- There is no discounting the fact that curves and flares and all the ramifications of the wider hemline have come to stay. And there is no discounting the fact that it seems to take less material to achieve the desired effect than it did some seasons ago. Applied fulness is one means to the end, and another--the most important, is the cutting of the fabric to the best advantage, subtly arriving at the effect planned. velous things.with belting ribbon proves This particular. model is a sleel un is so manipulated that there seems to lx a cocarde ther mid-season « material, but forgetting to line i » that it can be folded and stowed away in the pocket of the coat. Both the beret and the helmet are classics One of the gayest to the hat wardrobe is the stitched crepe hat that can be had in black or any color at all--gay. sober, faintly tinted. It should match the frock exactly, and there over one car. \n uses t makes a additions is i 2 much cleverness in the pattern of the stitchery. Berets of satin are adorably saucy. and there is noth- ing that seems more hopeful of warm weather than a gay little hat in a lighter-than-winter-weight material. Fashion Settles Down It is interesting to trace, briefly, the processes that have resulted in fashion's unqualified approval of the small hat. = We remember the popularity achieved by the cloche several years ago, and the same- ness that resulted, finally, in a de-! termined attempt on the part of designers to oust that type from | public favor. We have passed through several phases of the large and medium-brimmed hat and re-| turned, again, to the close hat. = During the summer the brimmed model was popular. When the fall season brought out radical- ly mew models there were some hats with wider brims, and atten- tion was called to them as fore- runners of a mode that would in- clude breadth of brim. But these prophesies have not been fulfilled, and the close-fitting hat, closer fitting than ever before, is again the unanimous choice of the ultra- smart woman who 'really sets the | mode. wide- | { which is boxed, or | that importance with color. Individuality, variety, spontaneity | and originality are characteristics | | of this art, and it appears in every- | thing from wallpapers to the backs of playing cards. Probably we are! more interested in the effect of | this modernism upon clothes than x 'L | upon anything else, and if the ad- PAB IL, ery warm, and is (25,00 models prove anything, there for trip that takes one i) he some clever applications of And for the | of the vivid colorings and geometric ombre color- the newest travel coat is of camel's hair in a new weave that presents | g arance? It is light! HAT m § C of ideal 1 into varying cl we 1 first time the ings in this fabric. lines that are part and parcel of ! the modern decorative scheme. ! m 3 . A curious theory has been of- asain, expressed Ju the new fuss| fered auent the garb of the mo- wr d gi ment, which must, to be superla- | and in a new way? There are tie tively correct, appear simple. but | scarfs of the supple furs, like kid- | pa sophisticated and intricate in! skin, and one has a lire not unlike | the achievement of that simplicity. | a bib. Others are made of one, | Designers will tell you that the | two or three skins, and there are |sports theme is no longer dom-| FOR THE BUSINESS OF BRIDGE IIE holiday season brought the modernistic in design; some are 4 displays of bridge accessories monogrammed; and the faces of | to a high peak of interest and the cards come in for due atten- | etliciency, with designers vieing | tion, colors arranged effectively, or | with one another to produce un- |e figures of the royalties pat- usual and distinctive cards, scores, | t a ki h a tallies, tables and accessories verned after old-time knights an thereto, us well as prizes. There ladies. Some distinguished be-| are times when the selection of a tween the major and minor suits. suitable prize, and a hitherto un- Tiles, that set in racks after the | used one, is more trouble than all | manner of Mah Jong tiles, are ex- the work of preparing for the em-| cellent for the out-of-door game. | tertainment of the players. { Trump indicators are useful, and Bridge tables, of the correct many are novel, a brush, for ex- | height and size, with matching ample, with such an indicator in chairs that fold away, are to bejits back, the brush for keeping had in many styles, and the very, the table clear of cigarette ashes. newest offering becomes a fire, The smoker is accommodated with | screen when not in use. Covers three-in-one ash, match, and cigar- for these tables are just as varied, ette trays, many odd trays that and there are many that fit smooth- | clamp onto the side of the table, Iv down and have a polished sur-!and various match holders. is a convenience to the! The service of afternoon tea, or player. Satin or the new moired refreshments of any sort, is sim- oilcloth makes an excellent cover, | plified by bridge sets of paper. may be tied. stamped in color with figures ap- The narrow card is the choice | propriate to the purpose. The over the old-type cards, for when | covers are the correct size and the thirteen 'must be held width is! napkins match, and it is possible | troublesome. Many of these cards to purchase these sets anono- bave attractively figured backs, igrammed for individuality. ! face that | jewelry land inant, but is type all its own. And this is true, for we are com- ing to realize that we dress ac- cording to our background, first of all. Illustrating this--ecolors, textures and lines for sports are planned with the out-of-doors In mind. L { Afternoon attire is planned to fit into the surroundings in which we play bridge, drink tea or matinee. When crystal chandaliers are lighted, our appasgel glisters and shimmers to keep pace with the prisms of light. If the frock is not beaded or sequinned or starred with crystal or diamante, jewelry meets the requirements, Geometric lines are expressed in materials, in seamings, in bandings or appliques. One is impressed by the myriad things that can be done with circles, curves, squares, rect- angles, crosses and the zig-zag lines of the lightning flash. Accessories present many amus- ing novelties, among them hand- bags, jewelry, handkerchiefs and scarfs. Bright colors and silver or gold or steel are mediums for the expression of this art, and in the synthetic stones and old-style settings combine What- ever one's personal feeling, the fact remains that more and more women are adding cigarette case lighter to the equipment of their handbags. These ensembles enamel! and metal, and almost without fail they incline to mod- ernistic motifs. The pin that is the sole ornament @f your hat may match a pin on your frock and be very modernistic in its motif. The two leathers that-combine in your footwear may write the modern language with lines where they join, and underscore those lines with a piping of gold or silver. are gay with way are fashions decree. in, is on. Perhaps the thing that intrigues us most is the Palm Beach display, for we are ever and always look~ ing ahead, and planning! Probably many of the things now appearing will live only briefly, and not enter | into our scheme of things %t all, but they are all worth considering, for they are the nucleus of the summer 1929 mode. Materials and colors and lines will differ radical~ ly from what we are wearing now, so we must keep pace with what's new. There are some adorable iittle hand-made frocks from France, marvels of stitchery, and they show the new colors, with red prominently displayed. In the same vivid shades are the dresses of light weight wool, so very fine and sheer that they are hardly dis- érnable from silk. The new wools are bound to prove interesting, and the tweeds are, again, specially featured. Color and material seem to play an unusually prominent part. Apparently unrelated colors are combined, but it's really a nitherto untried use of colors that har- monize, and it is the same with materials--it is bound to follow, when the old becomes tiresome, White tweed makes a smart coat, and there are many topcoats of this fabric, and coats of lapin-- beige or gray. There are ever so many jackets and sweaters for the sports costumes that are the major portion of the daytime wardrobe in resort life. | There is much to interest in | bathing togs--we shiver a bit as we eye them from the snowy | street. A suit of rajah silk has | jersey trunks and with it one | wears a jersey hat made like a | gob's white hat. They are turning | their attention to headwear as a ! sombrero and a fisherman's hat { prove. Beach clogs, a suit that is cut low for sunburn purposes, | Cossack beach coats of Terry coat, | silk lined, all on display. , And | beach mats of jersey with a coolie {coat and pillows to match are shown. Two of the most important eve- ning accessories are the san and the long earrings. The former in colors that are as bright as fashion | dictates, are of chiffon, or Georgette, or mousseline. The latter combings { | Lines and colors in the modern |peflliants with colored stones--ved, | green or blue. THE PICTURES (1) The vogue for wool finds its way into the hat mode. A crown that is really a patch-work made up of embroideries, toh coarse lace and 'y. gives toa del that might, otherwise, seem ordinary. tailored fashion. (2) When the jack Both band and brim are stitched in the bl mode time combination of plain skirt and figured jumper, for Southern wear. The single-breasted effect, accented by buttons, is rather new. The skirt turns its pleats inward eather than d, for a ch (3) Between season hats take to light weight fabrics. impressed by the size of the crown of this model, which leaves the subject of trimmings to the brim. opportunity for color contrast, and an always an excellent choice. Stitched effects provide a (4) A mew idea in the close-fitting helmet hat. Pulled tightly down over the head, with only a wisp of hair showing, it snugly covers the ears. A slash in the white crepe that alternate with the tucks in the material which the hat is made. top makes possible the folds of . of (5) Mllustrating the hat that possesses personality. shaped on the head. pulled down. here and tucks making of the crown a perfectly and finish are achieved by the fabric, a soft frame for the face. appligues in two shades of of the scarf. the blouse and coat lining We shall see much of these designs.