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THE DAILY SUN-TIMES 'There is No Prescribed Formula for Its Attainment --But if You Go Seeking It You Will Be Sure To Find It. N any analysis; of the fashions of the moment we find certain definite: themes--as elegance, formality, the feminine influ- ence, To them we add certain preferences in the matter of fabrics, as tweed and velvet; of colors, as slate blue, or hunter's green; and of lines, the elaborately styled skirt an example, But the achieving of an individual ensemble remains a problem, a work of painstaking care, Given the general knowledge that we may glean from observa- tion, and a clear conception of type, whether it be formal or in- formal, daytime or evening need, theré remains the business of as- sembling a soipplated costume that will possess individuality and ele ments of the differentness that will mark us as smartly dressed, De- signers have given us a wide variety with which to work---remains the task of using it, Fall sports events have shaped | the sports mode, accenting certain | colors, materials and lines, and the | opera has moulded formal evening | dress, The bridge season has begun { and we are already familiar with bridge frocks and tea frocks and the general outline of formal day- time dress, 1t will not be amiss, in this bgplef discussion, to'touch upon the sahent features of the mode as it is being exploited at the moment, Contrasts Are Greatly Favored Both fabric and color contrasts, are of the utmost importance in the new fashions, and we see tweed with jersey, with velveteen or with knit garments as a feature of sports attire; velvet with lame or with Georgette typical of formal after- noon themes; and odd transposi-| tions of both color and fabric in) evening models. Two tones of a color, two colors, a single color with overtones in another color are also featured, Lines are deceptive, intriguing, effective, There is a flare present in practically every skirt, The hip- line is molded, The waist Is bloused or fitted or jacketed, And there are innumerable details of neck- lines and sleeves, all an ald to be- comingness and the carrying out of any plan that we may devise to ald us in our search for this same individuality, There is material in abundance ready at hand. Probably the first requisite, no matter what the type or the pur- pose, is the determining of the Jines best suited to ourselves, those lines determined hy height, build, and the seemingly lesser, but just as important considerations of length of neck, and height and breadth. of shoulder, These gen- eral factors are fundamentals, and after they have been laid down the business of acquiring individuality begins, The Way Lies Through Color There is a notable interest in the high colors, which makes the prob- lem interesting and at the same time complicates it, And you are not to assume that this idea is con- fined to the sports mode, for it is not, It touches formal fashions, and is made to serve many pur- poses, joining, many times, with somber tones that it may be even more startling from contrast. Color contrast grows dally more i cat fur for its elaboration, blue takes gray goatskin, Such a suit is formal in color, line and trimming, and will attend bridges and horse-shows and func. tions of this general type, Or the suit may include a gay-toned frock combined with a bright coat, or the situation may be reversed, Indicative of this use of high color, a smart shop offers an ensemble in black and white, but the pleated skirt--it is a sports model, is an extremely vivid red, and it is charming. No Matching Of Partss The ensemble rules, but it no longer means that the frock and the coat must match, nor need they be openly linked, the one to the other, Subtle sophistication is the watchword, and the nearest ap. proach te the obvious Is the coat that is lined with the color of the frock, But many times it Is the unexpected arrangement of colors that is smartest--a black frock be neath a coat in some vivid color, lined with black! Brown and beige are the usual combination, but when yellow--not as deep as the obvious topaz tones, or red, or green is the choice, then we have an effective result. We know about black with white or with red, hut it has a new and in- finitely smarter effect when com- bined with brown, or with gray, And some designers are using blue, or green or yellow with it, achiev- ing effects of the utmost chic in the process. and G72 or SAT TTY THE SEARCH FOR INDIVIDUALITY Wr Garsira Flirvscom: ~ The Problem Of Accessories It is not the simplest thing In the world to complement the two-color costume In a perfect way, espe- cially when the two colors are sharply contrasted. There may not be too great a divergence from the old theme that seemed, in com- parison with new ideas, somewhat tame, Accessories may contrast, but they are better when match each other and link them- selves to the frock, or, in the newer way, with one's furs, If there is some rarely beautiful, but difficult shade that you wear well, choose this shade and feature it, taking care, however, to offset its unusualness with accessories in a neutral shade. There are some beautiful purple tones, sure to he unusupal since few women wear this color well, and the slate blues are worth while, if becoming. Brown is considered a leader and Is best | when contrasted with another color. SLRS Zia YEW WAY HE modish fur coat, designed for this season and with no thought of next, has adopted not alone the details of cut and decoration, but the silhouette of the winter mode. This means that the coat is typical of the mode that will be written definitely un- der the date line 1928-9, and is not for those of us who deal in futures so far as our furs are concerned. But this mode holds much of beauty and of interest, Pelts are soft and pliable, mak- ing it possible for tailors to handle them much as they do fabrics, We see 'many of the familiar skins, among them beaver, muskrat, Hud- son seal, raccoon, mink and the like--ecach to their special pur- pose, but we must expect the new- er furs to be generously represent- ed, some of them already rated as "stock" choices. Soon they will be classics and other new pelts will be introduced, Our ideas of sports furs are be- ing revolutionized, for some of the new offerings arg far from typical of the accepted skins for this pur- pose, Ilaccoon we always asso- ciate with sports, anG what could afford a greater contrast than the coat of beige or gray lapin, light- of-weight, soft and glossy? Red cat is another sports fur, and it is sheared. Kidskin is approved for this purpose, so is pony skin, and, in the course of events--nutria. Grouped together we find car- tant in every clothes group. Study an average display with the definite purpose of separating the new from the old, the unusual from the usual. You will find en- tire costume suits carried out in some obe of the new high colors and trimmed with furs in abrupt, perhaps startling contrast, but sure to be effective. A shade of green uses leopard for its trimming, an- other uses civet cat. Red has civet akul, Persian lamb and broadtail, all three of them luxury furs. Sometimes the coat of black Per- sian lamb has a collar and cuffs, even a border of gray Persian lamb, a very smart combination, Caracul appears in various shades, and is one of the most popular furs approved by fashion. We are, by now, accustomed to the idea of dyeing furs to the exact shade that suits our purpose. To a certain extent the newer furs have displaced the older ones, and this may be attributed to two causes, We are ever a'ert for novelties, and there is little that Is novel in a coat of Hudson seal, or of muskrat, no matter how attract- ively the skins are worked. But in spite of this the haute monde is making much of the mink coat worn' with frocks in the high shades that contrast so perfectly with its rich brown color. . They have widened the skirts of these seasonal coats, using godets and circular cuts and various types of flares to achieve the end. And one of the very newest models, carried out in kidskin, hegins its fulness at the shoulders, falling in folds that measure half again wider than the ordinary coat. It is of- fered as the newest coat silhouette and is surely a radical departure from the familiar lines of other years, Details of the new fur coats show slanting pockets and a very gen- erous use of contrpsting furs used for trimming. Huge cuffs and col- lars, borders variously applied, and a second fur used in with the orig- inal fur, for godets or flounces, are typical, There are scarfs of an- other fur, and at times they remind of the old-fashioned "tippet." One has the feeling that modernistie themes are effecting fur coat lines. But there are coats of a more conservative' cut, staples in the mode. They are cut to hang straight, and will be quite as cor- rect next winter as this. Collar, cuffs and pockets on these coats keep to the usual lines and are neither too large or too small, or too obvious. Touches of individu- ality are achieved by the working of the fur, or by the use of a con- trasting fur for cuffs and collar, Belts are a feature. they | GOWN HOW A WOMAN SALUTES THE FLAG On June 14, 1923, the /National American Commission of the Amer ican Legion called a National Con- ference consisting of representa. tives of sixty-eight national organ- izations and adopted as part of a '| fag code the proper form of salute for a woman, The women's salute consists in standing at attention and holding the right hand ever the heart, > SUGGE ST THEIR PURPOSE O very sharply drawn are the lines that divide one type of ress from the others that we that our | price, but are smartly new in ef need have no fear dinner, And every day we are of- fered reproductions of the orig- finals that are prohibitive as to cnoice will be inappropriate to the | fect, purpose for which it has chosen. been There is no confusing the | moment is the model in Canton One of the featured frocks of the sports-utility model with the one crepe, its color ene of the new gay designed for bridge, for tea or wi Coats of Fine Leather NE of the most important 0: fashions is the leather coat--short, medium length, or reaching to the hem of the dress, Lined with wool, they are warm enough for any weather, and made of skins that are soft and supple, they take on smart lines in accord- ance with the mode. Some of the cleverest models are reversible, one side of the leather and the other of wool, gabardine for example, Probably the greatest success at- tained by any coat model has been the fortune of the trench coat, which we now have in this group, as well as in rain proof materials, The other styles include both single and double breasted models, the 1 garment 1 to be the preference as cold weather ap- proaches, But the jacket is worn with the separate skirt and sweater comfort assured by this combina- tion, Great Britain, keeping to her reputation of smart sports noveities, sends us 2 coat of printed leather, the pattern a checked one carried out in ombre colors. It is a full length affair and very swagger in- deed. Some of the smooth leathers are trimmed with suede inserts and feature a belt, collar and cuffs of this leather, oftentimes matched with shoes of the suede. Patch and slashed pockets are details, Fall Hosiery Colors E are really delighted with (0: new costume colors that are the backbone of the gen- eral fashion mode, and we adopt them without a thought of the ac- cessories that still remain to he chosen. And by no means the least of these is the hosiery that possesses so great a power to smarten or ruin the ensemble, For the approved new shades there are certain approved stocking colors prescribed. With the popular blues, many of which run to smeke gray or slate gray tones, there are grays known as slate and smoke---each to fits own, and grege, a combination of grey and beige is approved. With the new brown tone that we are seeing everywhere goes the shade known as tobacco, another with an overtone of red called cinnebar, and a beige shade that has a yel- lowish tinge and is termed honey. Hunter green, the favorite In this color range, makes use of either the honey beige or another beige that has smoke tints, and still another known as kasha, keeping to the beiges. With red, and there is a wide choice in the shades of this winter color, they are using the smart grayish smoke shades, grege and kasha beige. single color is as generally used as beige, and it has many varied casts, | What England SendsUs ADE in England," as a hall- mark of excellence, is increas- ing its scope, and doing it rapidly, In some few things it ex- cels the world, and in many others it equals even the most famous producers. The influence of this country is rapidly making itself felt in many ways, beginning with the group of garments that we des- ignate "sports," When she does not make, she furnishes the ma- terials for making. English tweeds are famous all over the world, and English ideas in practical smartness, as well, French designers take the tweeds and the ideas, add details of line and trimming as only the French can, and we, of this country, wear them. Yet--there is an English firm that ranks high in the quality and charm of its output, asking no ald from the clever couturies of its friend and ally, France, English woelens are hard to equal, and one may safely say, Im- possible to surpass, English sweat- ers apd felts are known the world tones that are so generally favored, It Is worn with a coat in a neutral | tone or in another shade of the | color--the coat sometimes lighter | than the dress, The lines of these f frocks are youthfully smart, and | models of this sort fill many needs {ranging from the practical to the | frivolous, when the latter is not | too formal, | There is always news about vel- vet, the prescribed fabric leader for | fall and winter, Just now it is | chiffon velvet that is attracting at. | tention, and it may be silk or rayon lin its make-up. Some of these | frocks are plain in color while | others are printed, Panne velvet is also favored, and in its new form | it is sheer, exquisitely colored, and | either plain or printed, For the moment these two velvets are smarter than transparent weaves, Making a determined attempt to cut in on the popularity of velvet, the frock of lame has made Its appearance. It is exquisitely sheer | and soft enough to work well, and | there are some very unusual weaves and patterns using gleaming gold or silver and the rich new shades that are so effective when contrast ed with metal, A frock of this fabric would prove a loyal friend for the formal functions of an aft. | ernoon, With a sharp swing to tweeds for sports, and velvets for both after- noon and evening uses, we are apt | to lose sight of the beauty that lies {in materials that have proven themselves loyal friends in other seasons. Lace is one of these and it is quite as smart as ever--in fact there are times when we weldome a departure from the velvet dress, insistent, in its wide variety of weave, pattern and color. Then there is net, result even more beautiful and simply enormous collar of fur, with bishop inclinations, straight, its collar a Hot It of the skins and the coptrast of fashioned in the amazingly over for their worth-whil it is in England that the finest gauge sweaters in the world are made. Sports footwear owes: much to this | No | country, for it was there that he shoe-with-a-leather-heel had origin. Velvet will have its way, appar- ently, for chenille laces and nets with chenille dots abound, the frock of these two materials one of the outstanding successes of the formal evening mode, The imme- diate interpretation of the robe de style has a true regard for net, and it is used in some of the princesse models that are constantly remind~ ing us of their presence, Truly, we never know what fashion is dom- ing to! Chiffon is another important fabric for evening purposes, and it is of this material that models white chiffon, but tones of red, blue known as sunburn, A chiffon ker- match, are the approved acces. SEPARATE SKIRT C of remaining with us indefinite several jumpers and a choice of there are skirts and blouses in ing important in the varied com- for wear with a tuck-in blouse, and Others are attached to bodice tops, flannels, wool crepes and cash- and flat crepe, The pleated models featuring draperies, panels, scarfs and green -- raspberry, sapphire, chief, a sheer velyet pouch bag and sories of the chiffon frock, HE return of the jacket suit, ly, has brought back the separie short jackets, a basis can be estab- finer fabrics for more formal pur- binations that have been approved, so feature a belt as did the skirts and both types are meticulously meres and, of course, tweed, Then are the most popular and found in (2) A patterned silk defies the velvet vogue, subtly achieved by a means known only to its designer, model features many. of the smartest details, hipline, flounces, the uneven hemline snd an odd fichu arrange ment at the uneven neckline are notable, (3) Who will ever doubt that fur is popular, cont, flared as to skirt, achieves the Jusury class through (5) A fine example of the sports ensemble, and 'fluttery ends are made, Not chartreuse, or black, or the color slippers of satin or crepe, dyed to GREETING THE which has signified its intention skirt, For with a skirt or two, hished for several ensembles, And poses, the two-piece dress remain- Some of the skirts are designed in the old '"shirt-waist" days. tailored, Materials Include the there are skirts of velvet, velveteen the greatest variety. {| THE PICTURES (1) A costume that expresses true usury, parent velvet has touches of real lace and embroidery, un orna- mental buckle, and a shoulder flower, detalls adds to the effect, and a two-skin fur scarf makes the The frock of trans. Deftness in placing these distinctive, A clever effect this * The swathed This broadcloth matched by huge puffed sleeves Jt is designed for the slender woman, of course, for she alone can wear it, (4) The fur cont that will serve you well, will remind you of the date of its purchase, for its lines are unusual one, and its culls the same, individuality, nevertheless, achieved by the working It has nothing that furs, It combines a soft (8) A splendid expression of the utility suit. both simplicity and elegance, for one may other. The fur continues the color theme a ing to the gray shades and black, ef plement in frocks or the necessary accesscries,