The following text may have been generated by Optical Character Recognition, with varying degrees of accuracy. Reader beware!

mm, . DAILY TIMES a Old-- For Summer Fashions Are Just That. T'S sale time In the shops. That | means that the wise merchant is clearing racks and shelves of | everything 'that even hints of the summer mode, that there may | be room for the things that the new mode provides, and windows | are the eyes through which we look | at the most tempting displays. The something needed to finish out the summer season can be had at a real reduction, but any real pur- chase must be made with fall in| mind, i For the time It is well to consid- | er generalities rather than detalls, | for they are more important, apd the change .is gradual rather than abrupt and frequent. There al-| "ways seems to bg a' fundamental! idea hack of every change, but it Is only after several seasons that | one realizes what it is, and that everything has been working to- ward it as mode followed mode. A New Trend Is Apparem We hear much of Victorian In- fluence, and, if one cared to make a study of it, the mode would show | many points of similarity, But that does not mean that we shall dress as did the ladies of that period, Just that we shall feel the period influence. Subtle though the changes may be, they are glaringly appar- ent if one tries to make a frock of 1987 appear llke a 1928 model. The wise woman wears out her clothes, these days. If you must have a new frock before fall fashions are definitely established, the choice should he made with extreme care. There are several tendencies, each backed | by an authority, and the result will | be a compromise, no doubt, em- bodying the best of each and every one. In some things they agree, and ope of these is the silhouette, which Is assuming an entirely new aspect as mid-season and advance fall showings are offered. In a general way materials are pettled. We may expect satin, al-| ways a between-season fabric, and velvet is assuming its position as, leader in the mode. There are to be a very great many transparent velvets, and combinations of plain with figured. The various crepes, Including the dependable Georgette, lace and chiffon, some of the silks, and tulle and net for evening are all important. They possess sup- pleness as a matter of course. Color Is Still A Problem Fall colors differ from those of winter, for nature provides a set- ting for every season and we must take it into consideration. The rich tones of harvest time will be replaced by the still warmer tones of the snow season, and shades of colors will vary to harmonize with the background. It would seem, however, that brown is to be pop-, mnlar, pot only for sports and tai- lored things but for evening uses as well. | But neither fabric or color is as! important in a model as iine, for | a model that is correctly cut will | pass muster in any material and shade, provided they are true to type. And few would err in this respect, fabric that are sports ad- to be that type, and so on. | it is Mine that writes the date of | the frock or coat, with the possible exception of the utility coat and the suit in the tailleur spirit. Tendencies appear first in eve- ning things. and back track through the afternoon to street and sports things. It is in the latter group that an idea fis last expressed, al- though its influence may be gen- erally apparent. of evening frocks for radical changes. Pursue your investiga- tions into afternoon apparel, for it is quite as formal in its way as the dinner or dance dress. You will find many interesting bits of infor- mation. ~ Variety Is The First Impression If you are unbecomingly dressed. this next season. you will have only yourself to blame for it. The very Study the display ! first characteristic that 1s sensed In the preliminaries which we are en- joying is breadth of choice, not Things New Rub ElbowsWith theLast of Things| only In material and color, but in | line, And this applies to every type with which we aie concerned, 5 Oy Crosse Fl onviseom If there be a silhouette that is not to your liking, there will be others from which to choose, 80 complete is the provision. You have a choice of straight! and flared lines, the former pos- sessing width, just the same, and there is the modern interpretation of the princesse silhouette, known as the "fit and flare" line. The draped silhouette is shown, ineclin- ing toward str htness and prac- tically devoid of width, with massed fulness, for it is the direct anti- thesis of the flare. From these various types you may choose the one that becomes you most. Width is achieved by various means, and the flare is a result of them. There are tlers and flounces and circular cuts galore, adding to the impression of move- ment which is a general character=~ istic. Even in sports things there | are pleats, and now and then a, circular cut skirt, proving even to | | the most skeptical ihat the sil-| | houette is not rigid. And many | times the blouse, as well as the { skirt, has this characteristic. The Hemline Is Changing There is still irregularity of line | when it comes to the hem, but| there is more of regularity about | | that irregularity than there has] | been this past season. And the | idea has gone on to the coat mode, | t which permits its hem to diverge | | from the straight and narrow path. | The neckline, keeping to variety | with square, bateau and V-lnes, i finds there are some rare possibili- | a continuation ties In the scarf and kerchief, de- | tails by no means new. | The kerchief seems to Intrigue | practically every designer of note. | It is used as a finish for the waist- | line, as well as the neck, and in al diminutive form, it is used on | sleeves. The waistline shows evi- | dence of creeping up, although! many times it {is circumstantial | evidence at that, for the swathed | dip has two lines, one above and! one below, the former impressing | with its near-to-normal placement. | Coats Show New Influences The frocks of fashion change | their ways much oftener than coats, for the latter respond more | slowly to influence. But there are new lines in the fall coats, many | of them frankly adopting the flare, or tiers, or a circular cut skirt, and achieving further elaboration by means of the cape or the bolero. This means that the perfectly straight silhouette is not the smart- est one, for always something new is more desirable. In a general way we. can make further prophesies. There. will be of the ensemble theme, and the two-piece dress, or | the one in that effect, will bid, | again, for favor. Great luxury will | prevail in fabrics, for always for- mality and femininity demand ex- | otic materials. The jacket idea, in-| troduced late last winter, is fea- tured very prominently in the ad-| vance displays, making many for-| mal frocks into two-purpose af- fairs. AUGUST ANDTHE = HOUSEWIFE = HIS mid-summer month is really a breathless pause be- tween summer and fall, a time when we are buying practically nothing for our ward-| robes, merely marking time to the! rounding out of a new mode. Wise merchants find it an excellent op-| portunity to attract the housewife | into the home furnishing depart-| ments where they specialize in things, little and big, to make one's | work easier--the tools of the| housewife's trade. ! And in the same spirit it is ani opportunity for interested women | to acquaint themselves with the bits of equipment that will shorten | the hours of labor, many of them! quite as fascinating as a toy. And there are conveniences that have to | do with the placing of equipment, | aids of importance because they | save steps--we are running our houses on an efficiency basis, these | days, and learning to count our steps. Only a few of the contrivances can be mentioned, but they will act | as teasers, we are sure, for among them there will be sure to be some that will fill a long felt need. Among the space saving arrange- ments a folding rack attracts. It is suitable for a few towels or handkerchiefs stockings or one always has a bit of washing to do ---and when not in use it fits up close to the wall, entirely out of the way. There's a clever rack for keep- ing one's saucepans and their covers. It is made of copper plated steel and has sliding hooks on which to hang the pans, with a slotted space behind, into which the cover of the pan can be slipped. And there's an oyerhead dryer with eight long wooden bars that fastens to the ceiling and works up and down on pulleys--it has forty feet of drying space. It is enameled in white. For the closet that has limited shelf space, there are some ciever shoe racks to keep 'footwear in pairs and off the floor. They fasten to the walls or the closet door, and are made of enameled metal Another convenience is called a night rack, for it has a coat hanger, trouser or skirt clamp, pegs--for accessories, and shoe-trees, and will hold all one's clothes. It comes in mahogany, walnut or ivory finish. Among the really indispensable kitchen helpers---yet some of them are, rractically unknown, there are some clever knives, one of these a vegetable parer that pares a thin and deftly. And it | its height. | table much daintier and | two | these sales, a | duplicate when the fur season is at And there is a perfectly | Summer | | business would | featured sales, practically nothing, | vet the merchant must be financed keep keeps the hand from the steel. Butter pats and curlers are to had, and they make the service at in- dividual---one has only to run the be more | curler over a pat of butter to achieve results, Then there's a little aluminum wheel that crimps one's ple crust trimming the upper crust with the lower and pressing the firmly together. A little pincher-like instrument makes a even dainty scallop In erange or grape- | T no longer seems incongruous! hear item in and we to mentioned an the summer wardrobe, have come to expect the sales that are an annual feature during the late summer months Yet there are always skeptics, who question the reductions offered in and offer the sugges- tion that furs are, really, a winter commodity. For such as these we repeat the general information governing these sales. There isn't a doubt that the fur you will need next winter can purchased during a summer sale at price it will be impossible to furs is be reason for this, be, without these logical And he must if he during the dull time. his artisans at work, would keep them. Repairs on furs can be done for less at this season, for the work-, men are not as busy, and delay in repairing means that top price must be paid, for they have all the work they ean handle, and more. ! This summer service of repairs and of sales makes it possible for many women to possess a fur coat who [ trutt rind, making it more attract-| ed--very handy for reaching that ive for serving. A new brush has| been designed to clean the gas | range of dust and carbon deposit, | Another new brush is trimmed to a point for reaching tufted furniture. There's a kitchen stool that has two steps beneath it, with rubber treads, that swing out when need- | the dust in| awkward upper shelf, There are moulded rubber trays for plant pots--they never 'sweat' through. And there's a wonderful new cereal set fitted into a wooden frame, the containers built into the frame like drawers--six large and six small, It is very like a filing cabinet and just as useful. * Did You HAT flowers are increasing in C importance as a trimming motif? They catch draperies and finish @ollar effects of the | bertha type, forming a finish for shoulder drapes In kerchief style. Roses, gardenias and violets are preferred | THAT a new evening accessory ensemble 1s made up of a scarf and handkerchief made of chiffon and | trimmed with lace. The lace is the | FUR. = it Is a sports fur only, | Probably there are more musk- | rat coats sold than any other, | either as muskrat or as Hudson | seal, the name given the pelts] when they have been plucked and | dyed imitate Alaskan seal. If you drive a car, yet desire a smart, | appropriate, all-round coat, there! Is no better choice than natural | muskrat, but be sure that it is made of skins obtained In the three mid-winter months, for they are then at their thickest and best. For your information it known, that golden and silver muskrat are made from the soft, under side of the fur, and are fragile. For dress purposes there is nothing more satisfactory than Hudson seal, but it should be re- membered that dyeing and work- ing this fur makes it a poor choice for the woman who drives a car-- it will tear. In the natural musk- | rat the skins that are dark in tone | are always the most valuable. The sports furs include leopard, krimmer, nutria and kolinsky, as well as muskrat and raccoon. For general daytime wear there are furs of the type of mink, broad-| tail, baby lamb and broadtail. Aft- ernoon inclines to the flat furs, the loveliest, and most fragile, of thege to be would not be able to do so other-| being mole. Caracul Is a very great wise. But some knowledge of the various furs should be in the pos- session of the buyer. We know that the general ten- dency of all fashion is elaboration, with restraint, we will admit, but elaboration, just the same. This means that any coat toward | but the conservative one will be out of date the second season, for it is amazing what details can do toward dating any garment. So it {is imperative that the buyer take! into consideration the fact that an' unusual coat of the season of 1928-9 will have to be remodeled | to meet 1929-30's demands. | The really safe buy is the slim- line, unadorned coat with conserv- ative collar and sleeves, generous in length so that worn edges can be cut off without making the gar- | ment too short. Two other things enter into the question, durability and type--one may even add a third, and mention the suitability | of the chosen fur to the person who | is to wear it, for even a gorgeous fur can be a very unbecoming | thing. If you can possess a fur coat every season, afd one for every occasion, then you need consider type and suitability only. If you cannot, and few of us can, then durability is of the utmost im- portance. Raccoon and muskrat and beaver are three sturdy, de- pendable furs, and so is mink, but | the original cost of the' latter is, oftentimes, prohibitive. Raccoon is eliminated rather early in the list, for, though the most durable. favorite, and can be dyed the color that is most becoming to the wear- | Know -- shadowy Alencon and one may choose from rose, flesh, old blue and naturelle, when it comes to colors. THAT there's a new color, called Acajou, used to strike a smart note with the beige costume. It is, really, a red mahogany, and one may complete an ensemble with a minor ensemble of felt hat and three-eyelet Oxfords In this newest tone. ASLUMMER PROBLEM er, so we see a very great deal of It, Evening brings out the sumptu- ous wrap of snowy ermine or chin- chilla, the former often collared in fox. Both these furs are prohibit- ive as to price except for those who may buy what they will, Both are fragile, as is the silky mole, and therefore doubly expensive, It sometimes happens that a fur that is sturdy and long-wearing is worth its price, but when it tears on the slightest provocation, and wears off on the edges, it is a luxury, Remains the matter of suitabils ity to the wearer, and rules are very rigid in this respect. For- tunately, there are both long and short-haired furs in the list, mak- ing becomingness possible. Color is as important as length of the hair in the pelt, and here, again, there Is variety. We call the short- haired furs flat furs, and as such we will "refer to them--they are worked, oftentimes, like fabrics. The very large woman should avoid a long-haired fur, a huge collar, or a collar of contrasting fur. For her there should be flat fur, a small collar, no cuffs, straight lines. The slender woman can wear a coat of heavier fur, a collar of 8 fur like fox, and can use a con- trasting fur for collar and cuffs. As in practically every department of dress, she can do as she pleases-- within reason, of course. THE PICTURES (1) Richness of fabric is promised for the new mode. Velvet and crepe and sheer chiffon go into these two models, one a complete ensemble, the other a frock that is splendidly tailored. A Kerchief-cape, the molded hipline, the irregular hemline, all these are a part of new fall fashions. (2) A coat to meet the need of a new-arriving season. The material has a broadcloth finish; the color is Tanagra brown, and the luxurious cuffs and collar are of badger fur. There is originality in the use of bias bands on the skirt of the model, and there is more than a touch of formality. (3) Velvet returns with the very first hint of fall. fabric de luxe in every sense It is » of the word, for it possesses elegance and is supple in texture. This model, of plain and patterned velvet, bas its skirt fulness shirred to a low bipline and the softening touch of chiffon at the neck. (4) The newest interpretation of the period frock. This model, in bottle green net, bas the bouffant skirt set lower than in former offerings, and drops its hemline lower, both back and front. A shawil-like bertha of gold net with sequins is a quaint touch. The corsage flowers are gold. (5) A fall sports model in two very different fabrics. especially for golf, it is, nevertheless, quite appropriate for printed games, A silk is msed for the bi and b brown wool jersey for the skirt, the jersey trimming the blouse, Neckline and pockets are unusual. (8) A jacket ensemble in crepe, fur and metal cloth. One has every right to believe that the frock is sleeveless, and that the removal of the jack: gown. will fl the del into a dinner There is luxury in the combination of fur with fabric, appealing to our love of things feminine. (7) A two-piece frock of movelty-patterned wool. There is a thread of gold in the weave that is most effective with the brown d. One that b is to be prominently featured. The border has much the effect of soutache braid, and makes a trimming in the spirit of the mode.