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The Heated Term Makes Heavy Demands On| the Wardrobe -- It Becomes a Problem | To Keep Fresh™and Dainty. FTER all 'A daytime summer « sibility, and can keep comfort! same fabric group, using a print | sof torrid | pop 4p cadt, which may be heavy | or light as ifs purpose is practical. ity or .effect! Chintzes and tonnes lovely, the problem of utfitting resolves it- self into two things and smartn Di heat age days of tive coblness, there must be provision made for both, The warm weather frock, light of weight and, usually, of color, can be worn only briefly, before going ensemble is a one ) Lhe by and offset decep- cre- as and they have not been impervious to the lure of the new glossy yarn were never 'THE ORGANIZED | CLOSET J Egrihp dit pipg convenient one, these days, for passion for home decoration | Cn is responsible for a very { new and unique little model? It is. a beret made of antelope leather, and it is a childish looking | affair in some one of the really gorgeous shades, such as beige or Did You Know -- HAT the vogue for the small | material that remains a perennial brown, purple, copen blue or black THAT regardless of season {type or line, there Is one NR or shop TO FRAIIE THE FACE | three garments made into an ene semble, for there are trousers of | skirt-like fullness, a sleeveless jacket and a long, straight coat, It has more than a hint of the | Oriental. | THAT bracelets designed for thé | printel frock ensemble, and car- ried out in the same colors of the dress, are made of the new "oreum' and enamel? Oreum has | the appearance and weight of gold, | but does not tarnish, and is a dis« favorite? The really fashionable | tinct discovery, woman always has at least one| THAT a new silk, hand-woven id pair of patent leathers in her shoe | Siam, is characteristic in coloring wardrobe, and, probably, several|.g wel] ag beautiful In texture? So pairs that use it in combination, | ojever have been the weavers that It's a classic. | one color impresses with its {me THAT a garment possessing | portance, while another shadowd much of informal charm is termed | it. Sunny, jeweled, flower toned a bridge ensemble. It is, really, | are woven into these silks, -------- a a ee =e=CORFRPLECTLY HE new freedom When the head is hatless, but when | fashions that we arc now wearingh that permits one the hat is worn. The woman who | Beware of the coil of hair in, thd the hat that best looks tr#g and smart with her ears | neck! Few, very few, wear it af to the laundry or it is, therefore, to fit one's n the cleaners; omgething of a task ds "to one's budget, We are goipg th be lured i _has led to the development of furnishment accessorighfty"~v&. an- thao nusses mcntity is alway for a laugh. In this ah that is revolutionizing the 'cotton' field." It is impossible to lose sight of the ensemble, no matter what the occasion or weather! in dress) to choose enor. becomes ason. her, wear her hair in an in- financial indiscretions by el beauty of colors and materials anc the smart apprepriateness of fash- fon details. The one or two little] frocks for which allowance made are going to hecome several little frocks before the shopping trip is 'over, for variety within variety will prove our und 4 And yet--it is possible to be , thoroughly outfitted at a reason- able expense, Several factors enter into sums | mer' apparel, and it has little, if | anything, to do with spring or fall | outfits, . The to appear smart, to be comfortable in any | weather, and to achitve these ends | at a minimum expenditure. Every need must be met, for modern life | makes formal and informal affairs play their part in the sports, town and country a fundamental. Fabrics whl help | achieve the end. Again We Mention Rayon While cotton and silk have been engaged in a spirited race prominence in the fabric field newcomer has appeared. It pla the role of the proverbial 'dark horse," for it was disregarded ut- terly during its earlier appear- ances. True, there was a reason for this--it had not reached stage of perfection that made worthy rival to either of familiar materials. All this however, been changed. What could be more appealing to the woman buyer than a fabric that has much of the sheen and luster of silk, yet is available at far lower prices than this desirable material? Appearances count for 80 . much, these days, was object is day, and wear is for | a a it has, we are bound to be caught in the net of its practical beauty. There is bound to be a future for man- | made materials, was the first, . Some of the rayon fabrics are #0 charming that they are being used for the maid's frocks in wed- ding parties--a genuine recom- mendation! And threads of rayon are adding beauty to duller threads, making this. new "yarn" doubly important in a material way. But we are interested, at the moment, in the practical, sum. mer daytime frock, and it is in this group that we find more of the fabrics using this new thread. The Simple Daytime Dress Cotton broadcloths, voiles, linens, pigués, prints of various sorts and the rayon weaves--and those kin to 'them---meke up a group that = promises beauty, variety and smart- of which rayon | be blue; as yesterday it was green | what al these | and rayon| fabrics add so much to them, that | Summer makes use of crepe for daytime ensembles, if one prefers silk to cotton, and there is always the charm of utter correctness in de chine and the va- made into a costume ensemble. Nor need this be at all formal, for we know that these fabrics tailor extremely well, For the formal daytime frock, lovely | materials abound, but they are used in a different manner for this purpose. Lace, Chiffon And Georgette This group of stuffs the formal afternoon affair, although they are used in models that differ appreciably. Lace combines with either chiffon | or Georgette, and is used alone, and it is considered the leading | fabric of formality at the present | time. There are times when only the sleeves mark frock as be- longing to afternoon, for its elab- oration is quite equal tosthat of any evening model. The color range is always chang- ing, but it widens, rather than narrows. 'Today it is gray that takes the lead; tomorrow it may Georgette, rious silks, belongs to or evening a or beige. One is never sure just the most important color may be at the moment, and after all, it is not necessary to know+-- one may make her selection from the colors offered, quite sure of | their correctness, considering her individual needs, first of all. Apart from fabric and color, we | are interested most in fashion de- tails, which are, at the moment, showing signs of change. Paris cables tell us of Paris showings by famous couturieres, and they are replete with interest, for' they foretell the fall and winter mode, even before summer is really here. In these showings there are in- teresting stories of the probable | colors, fabrics and lines of our | next definite mode, | Concerning The Skirt Length | A group of a half dozen houses | report on the length of the skirt, | and they seem to agree that it will |be longer. One says "slightly longer," while another says "all skirts definitely longer." So we can safely assume that the trend lis that way, and we have escaped, for a time at least, the tragedy of the too short skirt. The irregular | | hemline still persists wherever it! | is possible to make use of it. A word of warning may not | come amiss--the skirt that dips in | the back can be a very charming lor a very ugly thing. When the hemline is too long in fromt, or i | lines and all Details Continue Very Important There is no diminution in the use of details to achieve subtle ef- fects that continue, in spite of such details, extremely simple. Belts, sashes and girdles abound; fagot- ting, pin tucks, the use of diagonal sorts of handwork, done on the fabric of the model, are seen; ties, scarfs, bertha and cape arrangements are featured. Two materials and two colors pres- ent contrasts that are singularly | effective. The ensemble dominates the de from morning until night, and evening frocks have coats of lace or spangled net to keep them in this mode. Many of the houses stress red for immediate wear, and for both day and evening pur- poses. Nearly every house men- tions black for evening, and many offer white. In general, colors seem to be rather decided, the fainter tones out of the picture for the time being. COLOR IN JEWELRY The question of color in jewelry is becoming a most important one. For daytime wear the colored necklace is far more appropriate than the one that lacks color, if | one excepts metal pieces in gold, silver or copper. Blue is approved of fashion, also green and so--we have blue and green jewelry, nota- bly the blue-green turquoise, which is also worn with black and white | ness for the little frock that meet | the line runs in such a way that |and with many of the prints that summer 'daytime needs. prepent rack upon rack of models | falling off, it is not good. The dip | terning. Shops | it gives the appearance of the skirt | show the same shades in their pat- Red and blue beads and that are planned along sports should be in just the right propor- | white pearls are used together, lines and fashioned with a sim- tion, and there are times, plicity that is, if ome attempts to | figures, that demand the side dip | three tones, necklaces made up of copy it. most deceptive. The color | or the generally irregular line, | the three colors in brilliants, and | ligee, they prove themselves ex- i combinations of jade and amethyst. tremely popular, » reifige is most satisfactory. rather than the back dip. | | | ' L} p! |] shoul- s but nt to clina- hero is mistaken for the man an automobile racing champ boxer or an Alpine climber or pert horseman. He of any of them so, when he at them, and wins the race, clim mountain or wins the fight, are thrills and laughs." Dix's latest comedy makes could tudio work- see a camp n the rently [a slightly different turn. known play by Owen Davis, young man who firmly believe honesty is the best policy. ae IT TAY DE CIIUSETT 00 Thar srw of with each other. tive hangers--many of them cov- ered in such a way that they assure the garment clinging to its support. Then there are clever little' hat stands--one to a hat--that will set firmly on the shelves--all one's headwear in a row! There are shoe trees and shoe racks, and there are boxes of all shapes and sizes--many of them divided--to take care of everything else in the wardrobe. HE already famous fashion twins--Formality and Fem- ininity--have taken the world of dress by storm. No depart- ment has failed to feel their in- fluence, and it is not, therefore, at all surprising to find boudoir ap- parel and lingerie growing daily more fascinating and elaborate. Perhaps these garments are less effected, for they have always been feminine, yet there is an in- crease in that quality, this season. If, during the period of mannish styles, there was a tendency to- ward eliminating the negligee, hostess and tea gown, in favor of the pajama suit, then that ten- dency . has disappeared. Pajamas remain, but they are inclined to gorgeousness, along with the rest of the boudoir apparel that is of- fered. Satins and silks and brocades are used in their building, and they abound in fine details that make them exquisite. ' Practical boudoir garments find rayon an excelient fabric, for its appearance is deceptive and its colorings are beautiful. Moreover, it washes well, which makes pos- | shades of the sible the lighter fashionable colors. Garments in this material are offered in'a wide range of patterns, and at this sea- and | there are crystals that show all | son of the year, when there is no demand for warmth in the neg- Printed material are much in favor for robes in times. The fabric (itself may be chiffon, Georgette--elither silk or cotton, or voile, but the idea is the same. These materials drape well, and may be lined or unlined, the latter necessitating a slip that will har- monize and thus provide a correct foundation. Lace is a favorite trimming, or it may make the entire garment. It is not as work- able as the sheerer fabrics. There are many clever origina- tions in a variety of materials, among them the models that make use of crepe de chine. An espe- cially lovely negligee omits its sleeves and takes, instead, a cape of the crepe. This cape, the wide, shawl collar and the hem edge are all fringed. Preference is shown for the pastel tones--coral, Nile, French blue or turquoise. Pink, lavender, peach, rose and Copen blue are also favorites. When a slip is imperative, it is often made as a part of the tea gown. A crepe satin slip with in- serts of thread lace has an over- dress that 1s principally wing draperies of chiffon and the sam lace that trims the slip. Anothe negligee of printed Georgette ha pastel flowers on a peach bac) ground, and the garment is wo over a slip of orchid crepe chine, 1) showing and a halr cut that is the all well, who is supposed to be a cha knows na the mistaken identity situation '0mIng to her ) The of the picture, taken from the Hf course. For the frocks there are, decora- | adividual way, and choose from a I of necklaces, necklines, 'rings and the like, me in it is possible to estimate in sartorial life of the modern And she is coming to that it is not color alone colors are important, that a frock becoming ariety ins more 3) he te he by oman, {ealize hough u nakes . The responsibility must be shared, No matter how effect- ive her coiffure, how becoming her ghat, how appropriate the lines that Tht neckline, beads and earrings draw, 'if the color is not "her" color, the result is failure. The opposite is true, and there are more mistakes made with the first named group than with the latter detail, for we are less accustomed to considering them of importance. We know that certain fabrics become our individual bet- ter than others, and we have found | that certain shades of definite col- , ors bring out the color of the eyes, making them appear larger, or they bring a tinge of pink into the pale cheeks, or they soften the figure | | not the lipstick. And--the wise woman, who uses make-up cor- rectly, knows that effects are made or ruifhed with it. It is a common idea that the | blue-eyed woman should wear { blue, the brown-eyed woman brown, and the hazel-eyed woman, whose not, green. But this is say "can" wear, rather than "should" wear. Sometimes the mas terial that has a bluish cast, but is rated another definite color, is far better for the woman with blue eyes--our color card has changed. The woman who loves navy blue, for its smartness and practicality, but is rather sallow, will be amazed at what a red hat will do, or a touch of red on the frock itself. So it is not to be forgotten that color has much to do with framing the face, for, in a way, it regulates the color in the face. And the hat, rather more than the frock, can be depended upon to supply the color that is needed for a spe- cial purpose. And the {ine of the brim or crown of your hat can do much to soften the face, it can make it less angular or less round, as the' need may be, and the hat can add height or take away from it. Youth may return to a face no longer youth- ful, when it is properly framed beneath a becoming hat brim, but this does not, you will understand, give medi- pro- hosen "Col- m ne permicsion to shaogo COMED or unbe- | eyes become green more often than | not true, | except in a general way--we may | | t | | high color that nature paints and | al ho and PAT modern interpretation of mannish, in modern phraseology, out of | luck There some Jewelry, both earrings and necks laces, share in the responsibility, | when it comes to making a frame instances, for! for the face. We all know how a all their trim-| changed line at the neck makes ness when they wear their hair | all the difference between a bee over thelr ears. It may be waved | coming frock and an unbecoming and swirled in the approved man- | one. The shallow round line, or the ner, but when the hat goes on, the | definite - round line may be most wave and the swirl are hidden and | unbecoming, 'making the round there is no soft frame for the face. | face seem rounder and the plump One woman solved the problem, | figure seem plumper with its curve, individually, with two locks of | It is for this reason that we false hair, worn with the hat and | have the square, the V-line--by attached to it, but it was, of|all odds the most popular, and course, a bit startling when she!the irregular neckline. There is removed her hat. | no reason why they should not The subject of long and short!assist in the process of making hair no longer comes in for the | the frame. Their influence goes animated- discussion with which it' even further, for they make the has long been troubled. There |shoulders less broad, and in every seems to be a spirit of willingness | way are an ald to balance. One for both styles to exist, so that | may not neglect to choose the line one may , please herself. Young |that fits best into: the general girls, who have always had short | scheme of things. hair, are trying out long hair, and The necklace does the same getting a thrill in the process, but| thing, ' and may, also, provide there seems to be no lessening of necessary color. The round-faced, the number of smartly trimmed | short-necked woman must pass the and smartly kept "bobs." | choker necklace by, it belongs to This must be said, however, the | the woman with a slender neck. bobbed head has a softer, more | Length, always, must be the lovely appearance, these days, than | watchword of the woman with in those of its early history. The |plump cheeks, whose head seems "waved head is the usual thing, and | to be set directly on her broad while the bob keeps all of its trim- shouldgrs. Earrings follow the ness, it has lost everything of | same rules. Either piece of jewelry severity, thus making it far more | provides color in a satisfactory appropriate for the very feminine | way. is, are such women lose / THE PICTURES (1) It's a sports model, this brief-jacketed affair. The blouse is of white and the coat and skirt of turquoise blue fiat crepe, a . most pleasing combination. Here we see the circular skirt at its 'best, its edge finished with scallops to match the jacket, A type sure to achieve great summer popularity. (2) Beauty is enhanced by the frame that is its setting. It becomes more and more of a problem, as the new trend develops, to select the wheat of the appropriate from the chaff: of the inappropriate. One's good points may be accented, or pletely eclipsed, by the fra she builds about them with accessories, (3) Modernistic embroideries c supply an unusutl trimming. This e ap for the circular skirt and edges its hemline. with shallow scallops. Blouse and sleeves take the embroidered design. The skirt is attached to the blouse. A circular cape is finished with scallops to match the skirt edge. (4) Presenting a glorification of the ever popular ensemble. A frock of white crepe, lifted to individuality by piping and monogram in color and a matching belt, is associated with a coat of printed silk, faced, lined and banded with the white. A parasol of the silk of the coat pl the (5) Boudoir needs make the pajama suit 8 necessity. A recog- nized classic in intimate apparel, these garments change along with general fashions. The flair for fabric and color combina- tions is responsible for this del of printed silk and plain, the latter in two tones, to harmonize with the fabric design. (6) An afternon model of Alencon lace and chifion. The vogue for these two fabrics is responsible for this unusual frock with its wide, straight skirt and dipp h ine. - The ire surface of the material is dotted with beads and the wide girdle, in tones of maize and orchid, is edged with the Beads. (7) There will be many of these little frodks, come summer. Tub silk, cottons. ayons and rayon mixtures'gsill fashion them, and they will serve divers purposes. Sleeveless, straight of line and easily tubbed, they will be the practical mainstays of the summer wardrobe. They are classed as sports.