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The HHL. of [ASSO Brims, Wide or Narrow, To Suit Your Fancy--| Crowns Quite As ATS are no lgnger of a special season, they are a monthly, even a weekly occurence. And they have assumed an importance that is, really, out of all proportion te their size--for they are, in most instances, small. More often than any other item in the ensemble, they are wrong, de- tracting from smartness and charm «in a regrettable way, And there are obvious reasons for their "wrongness!' There are certain set rules that should govern the hat you choose. They have to do with type, with color, with line, and, in even great- er proportion, with your own in- dividuality, We wear our hair In many ways, this modern age, we differ in height, build and color- ing, some of us wear glasses, while 80. 40. not, All these things tbe 'considered, If the hat we 4s to he our very own, %The small hat is, indubitably, the sports and tailored one. For- mality begins with the widening of the brim, although there are many tiny hats that are the very essence | of that characteristic. But the picture hat, already looming large on the millinery horizon, 1s not | correct with the town, the sports or the tailored ensemble, These are the general rules that apply to costume types. The Matter Of Individuality We have been told so often that the hat must harmonize with the sult or coat or frock, with which | it is worn, that results are encour- aging. But even when type and color are both correct, the result may be a faflure. We must con- sider the matter of brims--thelr absence or thelr width, crowns-- | their height and their depth, and | then, quite as important as shisind the line of the hat in relation to the general silhouette, One rule at the outset--the very large, or the extremely tall woman | should not wear the picture hat | with great width of brim, it will only serve to make the large wom- | an seem larger and the tall woman taller. The woman with a short | neck must exercise care in the choice of a brim, it may never be | wide in back, for it will give to the entire figure an appearance of | thickness, even of dumpiness. | Varied As Brims. Brims are of the utmost im- portance to the woman who must | wear glasses, She must have a brim, but her size will control it, to a certain extent, It does not have to be extremely wide, this brim, and it may droop only when a woman has the height to stand such a line, Under no considera- | tion whatsoever may the woman who wears glasses wear a turban, a toque or a tam, which brings us to the problem of the brimless hat, The Brimless Hat ls Difficult The woman with a broad or a round face will do well to avoid the hat without a brim, The ador- able little shapes that are worn pulled down over the head in such a way that they resemble nothing 80 much as a close-cropped head of halr are ridiculous on the plump woman. On certain slender types they are most attractive, hut the broad face demands breadth above it, and in a lesser proportion this is true of the round face. The woman with a slender face and a long, slender neck is for- tunate, She may wear a drooping brim, and she may wear a brim that has width in back, She may, also, wear many of the most ap- proved types of the small hat, pro- vided she wear a fur or a fur- trimmed collar to fill in the space between her collar and hairline. For her the picture hat was in-| vented, and, always, she will wear it best. Few women realize that the lines of a hat can bring out a feature or conceal a bad, The large hat overpowers the small woman, and ornaments or trim- mings that are bold and large have the game effect, Proportion in size, trimming and line must be taken | into consideration --a drooping | brim conceals many defects, a line | may bring into prominence a fea- ture already prominent, another line may conceal it. New Hats Warrant Our Study The underlying characteristic of the hat mode at present Is variety. We are entering the season of the large hat, and as a result contrasts exist. Not only the small, tight hat and the large picture hat are shown, but there is the hat with | the medium brim, a sort of com- good A SPECIAL HAT] FOR EVERY TYPE promise between the two, and usable for more formal uses when the picture hat is not a possibility because of type. In thesé medium-brimmed hats a a) Basic Themes Claim Our Attentio HEN a mode is as involved | as the present one, it is| sometimes difficult to sep- | arate the wheat from the | chaff. The most amazing mass of | details is bound, at times, to cloud | the fssue of fundamentals, even though the latter are far more im- portant than the former. But no | : 1 what the degree of perfec- | Bo a by the former, they | x ake up for a mistaken prog ol terpretation of 'the latter. 4 Certain themes must run through entire wardrobe story, others 5 to certain types, but not to ] each separate theme fis im- portant in itself. Included in the pre are the silhouette, the divi- son of all fashion into type groups, we are to remain in the safety ne of fashion. The basic principle of the mode is the straight, but fluid silhouette. these all contribute their bit. unadorned, is unusual, although it exists, Then there is the tendency toward the moulding of the lines of the | silhouette, the gradual creeping | upward of the walstline is noted, | the hemline continues irregular. The average woman now finds ft | necessary to "dress" several times a day, if her activities include ait- | ferent things. No longer can she wear the same frock for sports, for | lunch, for afternoon affairs, for | rigid lines have been drawn. The | sports ensemble is differentiated ! from the tailored or the town cos- tume, yet all three of these are | worlds away from the ensemble approved for afternoon. All this results from the feeling | of formality that has crept into the | mode. One is not correctly clad, this season, if she is not appro- priately clad, and that means that an influence on clothes, much to their betterment This means that the appearance of straightness i= achieved, even when 'vards and yards of material are used. In motion and at rest, two different silhouettes exist, in the latter there is simple straightness, | in the former there is movement. The result is grace and beauty, and one has a choice of many methods of achieving this end. +. Ruffles, frills, tiers, draperies and Pouts of the material at the side or in the back. capes and boleros and scarf ties and jabots and bows, | by themselves, their need arising | from very different causes. Sev- | eral elements contribute to classi- | fication. Fabrics, color and lines must be | considered in respect to each type. In the general classification of | sports, tailored and town ensembles | we find pleated skirts; width, [subtly achieved; short, three- quarter and seven-eighths length, as well as the hemline coat, and The | coat 'with the printed frock. straight around skirt | the patterns of the prints differ | | neutral, dusty colors, 'or the dark \ L But from those seen in the afternoon and evening. The formal afternoon frock in- clines to delicate fabrics and col- ors, the new blues in lace, net or chiffon specially popular. Prints are, in many instances, the florals, large patterns the preference, The ample silhouette, long sleeves, the uneven hemline and all the fas- cinating detail of draperies, flounces, tiers, swinging capes and the like, make of these models a distinctive fashion. LEvening permits the straight sil- houette or the bouffant, and there | is some talk of the return of the bustle--this as a result of the lik- ing for the bustle bow and for chous of the fabric. Net and lace are much in evidence, also chif- fon, and in direct contrast to this | type of material we have the stiffer the conventions have again exerted | fabrics--taffeta, moire and the like ~--imperative if there is to be cor- in every way. | rect interpretations of the bouffant Then evening things are a group | and bustle lines. Casting a benign Influence over the mode we have the feminine theme, which is, briefly, a soften- ing influence affecting all our fash. | fons. The touch of lace at the throat of the tailored frock, the fluttering cape or scarf on the aft- ernoon dress, intricate details of handwork that make themselves Sy BARE ARA WINSLOW fo a - Did You Know -- crowns are not only larger, but higher, and the widened brim af- fords real protection from the sun. Along with the real broad-brimmed hat they will complement the sum- mer frocks that are as individual in their way as the large hat is in the millinery mode; may not lose sight of the shapes that are small, even possess brims of varying widths. There is .no: denylpg the prom- inence of the cloche, preferably the one with a narrow brim that turns down a bit all the way round--a generally becoming theme. new cloches are erratic of brim, many times, varying width and line and droop, but essentially the same. There is no single type of hat that is as popular as this one, which probably accounts for (ts revival after several seasons that did not feature it. Straw Grows In Lmportance When a thing pleases we are in- clined to accept it, and not go hunting for reasons for its being. Straw is such a thing, and there are many models in this material from which one can make a choice. Dengal, baku, ballibuntl and bang- kok are the most popular straws and since shiny effects are fashion- able, the lacquered straws are of- fered. The effect is sometimes achieved by trimmings--cellophane and cire ribbons. Combinations of materials vary and we see the silks and straw, straw and felt, or felt and silk. felt in the general effect, but are | Sometimes the idea is carried out subordinated to the garment itseif, | with two shades of a color, again, these are typical of the new fem- | it is two colors. Exéemplifying this Bile inine theme. i But in a con- | templation of the wider brim. we | when they. The | trimmed with leaves of a deeper | green felt, the brim of the hat of | the felt. Velvet is shown in some of the summer models, combined, oftentimes, with one of the fine, smooth straws. Trimmings Are Very Simple In this 'season when fabric ma- nipulation is so very important in the general mode, we must expect it to prevail in millinery, /Turbans, toques, tams and berets depend upon it almost wholly for effect, although, of course, the fancy or- nament or pin is permissible. Bows of straw or ribbon, very often the tiniest sort of bows are used; feathers, very small and lacquered, are featured--sometimes the en- tire hat is made of them. The use of grosgrain ribbon is noted, and it is always effective. In general the line of the hat slants upward over one eye, or the trim- ming is placed directly in front, or it shows a tendency to. creep around toward the back--the lat- ter newest. We suspect that the coming of real warm weather will have its effect on brims, the wider brim will replace, to a certain ex- tent, the eyebrow silhouette. HE warm, sunny, spring days C rouse the careful housewife to a consideration of storing her winter clothes away, and taking care of the blankets and woolens that will end thelr immediate use- fulness with late spring and sum- mer weather. Jt is a task that requires patience and a deal of care, If she is to find them ready for further service when fall winds warn of cold weather. Cedar chests and closets are a | part of the equipment in many | modern homes, but when they are! | lacking, there are tar bags and | spectal preparations to be sprayed |on the woolens--they do not stain | --that will do the work of keeping | out moths very well indeed. But {it is well to bear this iu mind-- | you lessen the possibilities of pro- viding food for moths by putting them away clean. Blankets and coats and frocks that are to be stored through the warm weather <honld he dry- Away for the Summer any moth at all! Then hang the garments on hangers, place them in tar paper bags and hang them away. Be sure to button a coat or garment that fastens that way be- fore covering it. Blankets should be wrapped in tarred paper and | stored safely away. If your storing work includes linens or \cottons--it may, even though sufimer, is their logical time--wash"thém and store them away without ironing them. Blue tissue paper will keep them from assuming an ugly yellow tinge. Many women send furs and fur- trimmed coats to a storage place, where they are insured against loss, as well as moths. If the fur | is to be kept at home, it is well | to have it cleaned first, every ar] caution that is given for woolens | applies to furs. The real advan- | | tage of a fur-storage vault is the | cool temperature that surrounds | the garment, no matter what the | temperature outside. HAT pins are so important in fashion that they may truly be sald to "catch up the mode?" They range from the bar pin, the circle and the oval, to animal pins, arrows and plumes, and the signs | of the Zodiac. They are done in | stones and worn everywhere pos- sible. THAT another costume jewelry [note has to do with tri-color jewelry--the red, white and blue of our flag. White crystals, touched with the red and the blue, are used alone or combined with pearls and pearls are also combined with red and green crystals effectively. THAT the new spring flowers must certainly give nature some- thing to think about, for they are far removed from anything ever grown in a garden? There are tulips of printed silk and camellias done in plaid, there are polka- dotted posies and others in red, white and blue. COLOR srarTens THE NEW MODE E know it for a mode of fem- ©:e charm, real formality, and a very general expression of themes by means of detail. And we accept color as part and parcel of this presentation without a realization of what it really con- tributes to the finished effect. Take from our fabrics the subtle grada- tions and contrasts, the accent pro- vided by accessories, and the ever- changing nuances of familiar col- ors, and what would be the result? We do not have to even solve the problem, for each new season offers a new color card along with new weaves and finishes, The real interest lies in how best to use the colors we have, for upon them depends much of our smartness, and all of our individuality, It is news tb many that there are shades of hitherto forbidden colors, which have taken on tinges of colors more becoming, that may now be incorporated into the wardrobe, Another item of interest concerns the broad range now available, and the return to popularity of some shades that have been, for a time, discontinued. The jewel, flower and fruit tones are {included-- prints would make this imperative and duller shades--many of them characterized as "dusty," form a contrast, Prints are colored ac- cording to the source of their in- spiration, and sources are many, Certain types demand warm shades, others require cool tones, a third. group can wear anything at all. The pastels offer cool shades ~--the soft hues of lavender, gray, green, mauve, old rose, blue and certain boils de rose tones. They combine with each other, and lend to the wearer the appearance of spick and span-ness, that is so utterly desirable. White, of course, leads the list, for it fs the warm weather choice. Red leads the warm tones, and along with it we class vermillion, henna, orange, the deep browns and greens and certain blues, Black would be included in any colop group that possessed the charac- teristic of warmth, although cer- tain combinations of black and white have the opposite effect, Even when softer tones are com- bined with these warm shades the result is not materially changed~-- one color controls. The success of the costume de» pends upon the use of a control- ling color with secondary colors introduced. Shades of gray, with white and black, form a color har- mony. A touch of flame red gives lite to such a combination, which, otherwise, might be dull, Many combinations are worked out in polka-dotted materials, and some very nice contrasts appear with ene, two or three colors used against a neutral background. We are welcoming the return of navy, of which there are, this sea- son, several shades--all nautical. It is merely a variation in tone that is meant when we mention navy, saflor and middy blue, and many find one of the shades pos- sible when either of the other two are impossible, The navy blue coat, worn with a printed frock and lined with the same material, is a real favorite in the town eostume group. Color is Injected into tweed fabrics and makes them much more satisfactory than they have ever been. The neutrals, which in- clude gray, natural, beige and tones like them, are frequently used as a background, and there is a new color, this season, called grege, that is a combination of gray and beige--the name com- pounded from the two. It fits in, especially in hoslery, where no other color seems just right. (1) Summer silks, laces and printed chiffons demand the broad- brimmed hat, always picturesquely beautiful. The model illus- trated covers its round crown with embroideries in harmonious colors, bands that crown with a silken fold and finishes it with an ornament, The brim, broad all the way round, is plain. (2) One of the most appreciated features of spring millinery is the revival of the cloche, that was, for so many seasons, a classic. It appears in various and the del illus- trated is a favorite type. Of great simplicity, it needs only the fancy at the side to insure its individuality. (3) Fashion bas truly traveled broideries far when she effective pattern done in square-cut crystals, Sleeves and collar fasten with bow ties of the coat 4) sumes the role of a collar. material, When spring comes, summer is not far away, the new (8) The smartest fabrics in the material mode are Hence the sports frock of bordered and white. The border is used to /The latter is belted in black and be worn open or closed as the wearer chooses.