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The HI HL of SAS LTO (OATs- WITH AND WIT Gr CHAT RT FTL OE TrF/LT QS DFT ACAI AF ITOLELL OF Mr 7 AAG C Some of the Smart-| estModelsAreFur- Less and Tailored | -- Others Are Lav- ishly Furred, Eis new coat time and we wel- | come it, partly because it means | that warm weather is close at| hand; partly 'because we are weary of winter furs and fabrics. A we evince a keen in- terest In the new mode as it per- tains wraps, and it. is cer- tain that we will, on investigation, be both and surprised at the variety of the offerings Dame Fashion has arranged for us. In general the new models catch the subtle simplicity that char- acterizes all fashion. They are gpoken of as simple, yet prgve deceptive In the very intricate they travel to achieve this If they have an ulti- | mate object it is to make the most | of the fabrics that fashion them, for they are so utterly lovely in themselves that they must be per- mitted to display that loveliness. So many of the new coats are distinctive for no other reason than the fact that the quality of ma- terial and the exquisite workman- ship makes them successful. Per- haps that is why the coat with fur has a rival in the coat without fur, details "making" the latter. Elegance is characteristic of both types, but it does not minimize the lattering and youthful effect that seems to predominate. Coats Are Light Of Weight It has been found that a wrap does. not have to be burdensome to be warm, a distinct note of progress. It can afford protection against the really cold breezes that surprise us even in the late spring days. Materials include the kasha weaves, and there are many of them, camel's hair cloth, cashmere and the always lovely broadcloth, an innovation in the warm weather fabric lst. There are knit weaves and tweeds, there are some interesting novelties and there is a fabric that resembles covert cloth--its name does not matter. Probably the | most aristocratic of them all is broadcloth, and it ig the choice for | many of the most intriguing caped i models--it has body enough to! keep it in shape, yet does not need a lining--a desirable characteristic | for coats of this type. { When it comes to a discussion of | lines it must be remembered that | many women will choose a coat | with a double purpose in wie --it | must serve as a separate wrap, and at the same time provide a back- | ground for ensemble effects. It | may even be considered the | foundation of the entire wardrobe. | for it will be called upon to rere in many emergencies. A neutral | color fs. then, imperative, if it is to fulfill its purpose. The Silhouette Is Straight | Fundamentally straight lines pre- | vail in the new coat models. They | are not, however, so straight that they impress one as boxed. for | they follow the lines of the figure, even in their straightness. Flares and capes and scarfs there may be, but we are concerned with them ! uny rate to our pleased trails simplicity \ FOX FUP EEL ONES PT SOT SHOOT AD ORES NTL" an elaborated front view, the full. ness above the waistline held in place by a half belt with an orna- mental buckle. An applied flare, edged with fur, gives an impres- sion of width and there is a half collar of the same fur. Hardly a wise choice for the coat as secondary to the main point of the lines of the silhouette. Sleeves | keep to the usual, conventional, tailored straightness. } When fur is used, as it often is, fox, badger, caracul, krimmer, sheared panther, beaver, furs of the flat type are the choice. Some- | times there is a collar, again there are cuffs, or it may be that there | is neither, but instead an edging | to the cape. Anything as conven- | tional as fur collar and cuffs is not | to be expected, there i€ beauty in the unusual and the unexpected,' these days Attention to detail is character- istic, and intricacies of the general | Aad mode find their way into the coat | mode. The irregular hemline, presaging greater skirt length, rip- ples for width, manipulations of the fabric and variety of capes. half capes, cape sleeves and the like make the spring models exceptionally interesting. We find many of these characteristics pres- ent in the models illustrated. Fur At Neck And Hemline In the fur is rather generously and there are subtleties to the general Mnes of the silhouette. A straight back. with little fullness. leads tol quite . FF all the many the hostess must solve, | for the masculine winner is most | trying. mate giving of the a wide | suitable prizes for this purpose. When there must be a modei of knit fabric used. useful accessories that are smart at It has resulted in the uiti- same things over and over £0 many times that craftsmen have been forced to take | coins, a hand in the business of providing | with an irregular hemline. ouT FAL Cr Y TTL UTE QF FLEFT FUR OY 327772°Y it dips, | as do so many of the new evening frocks, deep in back, then rises in front. The skirt of this model has width, but it falls straightly to| keep the silhouette the A | same | fur collar and fur bandings on the | 1 most sleeves characteristic Another model edges its cape, a fetchingly irregular sort orl with flat fur. Its general very straight, and there | unusual collar--it is | of the satin than it | That satin is the worthy of our attention proves that the silks will a place in the formal mode importance with lunch hour are cape, lines are a more would fabric for it occupy which the coming of the The Coat Without Pur When most effective be of fur is assumes the designer decides to ! eliminate fur from the plan of hex | thing that must do duty several seasons, | choice bint a happy choice for a single | a separate fur, or can, itself, wear season's wear, there is the model | fur in some neutral shade. i | coins. substiute She may decide tallored theme and with self - deep, or up- or narrow, the case may be. Various edgings are used as finishes, and there is smartness in the use of two tones of a color, or of two harmonizing shades. It in the furless model the scarf comes Into its own, for it provides a smart finish quite in keeping with the tailored idea. Many of the caped models are she must some- for it. to the the garment of some sort model, to keep finish collar standing, a as is that furless, and it is surprising how | tailoring, its lines are simple, and | grain and a fancy pin. many variations of this detail there | can be. The yoke is again revived | as a detail of this group, and ma- | nipulations of the fabric become | important----tucks and appliques | specially good. You will note that the straight | line coat, very simple and straight | of line, has enlisted the aid of a fox fur. It is one of the high- 'ights of the new mode, this sep- | arate fur, and it is being put for-, ward as an accessory to both the furless coat and the furless en- semble. It possesses this advan- tage--it makes a furless coat into | | a furred one, while the furred coat | must remain furred--always. | If Youre Practical Minded | If a limited budget makes it | necessary that your coat do alll round service for more than af single season, there are several things you must consider. he | color chosen must be one that will combine pleasantly with all the | colors you effect--when in doubt | the black coat is an excellent It can be brightened with BRIDGE PRIZES -- FOR HIM! problems that | There are several different types of when | bill both men and women are n-|, ice that is not prohibitive--and | one ol ind : Fo ming bRdge the ia key case at relates to a s rize | Able pr | likewise a desk box, folds that may be had at a is another possibility, | loose paper memorandum. Some of the bill folds are a combination affair, with space for | while. others acconmunodate | Then there are Jonglish pursess that are most | nly bills. ray coin man's | convenient for the man who would | prize. as well as a woman's prize, | not wear out his pockets with loose jat every table, the question of ex- pense is far from a negligible one. | pocket that hold comb and file. There are cases for the vest { It happens. however. that there is | cases with two coat hangers. for | relief in a wide variety of leather | traveling. necktie racks. card cases and | and cases that hold a single pack the same tems. pL nigepattan. all iv 'sather. ! that But it is the present They be or, if they not, type that can he remodeled without resulting | in a made over appearance Some of the caped models will permit of the removal of the but fullness and irregularities of should, as a rule, be avoided. And | remember--the longer skirt in- | evitable, It's easier to shorten than lengthen. DID YOU KNOW -- HAL Paris, ot silver jewelr) > lines of the garment the wal conservative, problem must are he .of .a skirt line cape sensing im spring the are portande of gray th ed ? There it, to he mode, has concei idea many the this presentations of and since shades are good amethysts with it, violet coming season, synthetic are frequently combined THAT. lizard of the newest > They bags? calf are offerings in hand- come in delicate col-| bags one ZZ NEW N its bu is just the same as it has always | been. Its fabric is the sort that meets all the demands of fine | its details are carefully subordi-| nated to its workmanship. Season | in and season out these character- istics are the same. It depends tor its individuality on the whimsies of the general mode, long it does not find itself subordina 10 them. No better proof of the popularity | of this costume is needed than the very apparent place it holds in the pew mode, which is anything but | Majlored. There are uses to which | this suit is. devoted that find no other outfit quite as satisfactory or appropriate, for it gives one the appearance of being well-dressed | and at the same time does away | with every sort of detail that] makes for elaboration. ! For travel purposes, for certain sports events, for town wear of a | morning we have the tailored suit. Clean cut lines, pockets, collars and | sleeve cuffs meticulously tailored, perfection of fit where perfection is imperative. This, it is to be un- | derstood is the basis upon which § the mode of the tailleur is built | cach season. In its original form we have it pictured here. This particular ason we meet | it in many guis every ome of | them true, basically, to the spirit or theme of the type. But jackets | are not always hip-length or three- quarters: they are, at times. very | near the hem of the skirt. Skirts | are not always straight of line and wrap-around: they are. more often | than otherwise. pleated: they may even be so bold as to flare a bit But the strict tailleur is a fur- less suit, its logical accompaniment is a fox fur or a one, two or three-| skin scarf. This year the hgrchief | insinuates its way into the tailored | | mode--there may be two, one | knotted on the shoulder, the other | peeping from the pocket. When all is said and done, the strict tail- | leur is usf@ood. as bad. a= the | accessories that complement it. | The hat will be 8 small, simple! s0 or among | stressed THE SPIRIT we form the tauoreu suit affair of felt, or, when carried out THE" L/L C AES PLIVE FEACHEDS THE COT I700£ orings--Dblue, nile green, gray --and the leather is iridescent. | One may choose from several models and all are notable for their | niceties of finish and thelr fittings. salmon, THAT designers who have given the bathing special attention® have brought forth many novelties, model with a de- The suit itself is a | suit them a tachable skirt? A Val ll Be One, At Least frock, or a full ensemble of tweed--that Ila fashion's dictate for spring. And when one considers the smart- ness, as well as the practicality, of this material, there will surely be no opposition to the decree. There are some beautiful weaves, quite new, sent us from England and France, among them a combination of beige and red that is quite the smartest ind newest, of them all, Tailored frocks are made of this fabric, the zephyr-weight, cash- mere tweeds an excellent choice for this purpose. Bordered patterns assume importance, and this is one of the smartest materials possible when self-fringes are the choice. Its weight is negligible, which means that details may be depend- ed upon to assure smartness. The one-piece frock has a rival, how- ever, in the two-plece model. The smartest spring ensemble 1s, undoubtedly, made of tweed in some mixture that uses either tan or gray. The separate skirt and three-quarters length coat is the favorite combination, these two pleces matching, of course, With them are worn various types of sweaters and blouses, making pos- sible varying degrees of dressiness --this type of ensemble not in- cluded in the formal group. Angora blouses are very smart, and there is usually a contrast In color as well as in fabric, Separate coats in this material rely upon their niceties of workmanship for much of their smartness, and are, in most cases, severely simple of line. Some feature fur collars, while others are furless. There are interesting seamings and a widely varied use of the woven border that is so effective, | There | COAT, or a L/ te es AROVES DELIGHTFUL E are told many things at this particular season of the year, but a decline in formality Is not prophesied. (deep Spanish flounce, the ten | Jacket, the swathed hipline, and | the scarf cape. Incidentally, there is a trace of beading at the neck gay little affair of the utilitarian | If we find any information on the | line, and it ends in a beaded cord sort, and the skirt is of soft cash- | mere jersey in plain color. fashions have the shawl as an integral part of evening attire? Large squares of sheer lace, embroidered with metal th atch the light in a fascinating way. Sheer capes are detail that this mode has popularized. THAT southern ids, most another are printed cotton printed dimities and im- ported liberty lawns featured in collections designed for the South? They sho extremely inter- esting t nents, with box-pleated skirts and tiers and flounces. Gros- grain ribbon is a favorite trimming. there THAT crepes, THAT the long expected arrival | of the separate garment | taken It will assume | consequence with the new season, and for sports wear it has no rival. A novelty cape is made | of a polka-dotted knit fabric, bound | It has a scarf. cape as { has place style in plain color. OF THE TAILLEUR Am | | in fabric, dependent on its lines for its success. It is permitted taflored bands and bows of gros- Tailored shoes, slip-on gloves, a taflored bag of leather, these are correct. | the period influence. { drregularity subject, it is to the effect that the softer, on the increase, that the tendency ww formality is | and tassels, One is always corrects more feminine themes are | and that means becoming reality in'a very decided | way. With formality appears at though formal afternoon is approved. Certaln changes are apparent in the proval, and they have to do with line quite as much as with color and fahrie, the latter seasonal, We must expect warm weather will bring in materials that are more appropriate than velvet, satin and its best, the dinner hour that | apparel models displayed for our ap-| silk, and we must also expect the | softer shades of colors--evening wear is the flower garden of the mode, hence, spring flower shades What simpler way of achieving | ¥ the fabric change than by the in- troduction of lace and chiffon? And one may not, of course, forget Georgette, the practical. this bit of material information are color notes, and they tell of the continued smartnesshof black, | of much white, of the pastel blues, yellows, pinks and lavenders. And t --really new! the evening frock in light navy blue! When taffeta or satin are used, as they are sure to be in period models, one sees the softening in- fluence of tulle, net and chiffon. The silhoustte has taken on some of the characteristics of the princesse--not necessarily the tight affair of some seasons ago, but a becoming moulding of lines that seems to accentuate straightness, and at the same time to soften it. It's an influence, not a reality. For some months now, we have seen the irregularihemline in for- mal attire, both afternoon and eve- ning. A panel or a drapery here, a fishtail there and finally a drop- ping of the hemline in the back, even when there is no pretense of No matter whether your attitude is one of approval or disapproval, skirts are longer, falling in some of the eve- ning models, to the ankles. This does not mean that we to have ankle-length skirts--by no means But it does mean that ugly short skirts are to go---even an inch or two may mean the differ- ence between charm and a com- plete lack of it. Strange to say, as the skirt creeps down, the waist- line creeps up, although it is not, as yet, normal. It is only logical that draperies should play an important part in a mode that stresses softness and of line, for they | achieve the latter in a most natural | way. A drapery may fall from any | stone embroidered, vantage point and be offset by an- sther in assymetric fashion. An :xample of this appears in a model of sapphire blue chiffon, rhine- with ribbon | draperies falling frogn one shoulder | | and the opposite hip. Altogether the evening mode in its most formal presentation is a graceful, swaying demonstration of the femirine theme. [It has quali- ties of individuality and of. ele- gance, it possesses a poise that is the uldimate of smartness, and each step forward seems to in- crease its luxury. Again we would Added to | The Smartest Fabric For Evening Is Lace ly gowned in a model of this type, for it is not ultra-farmal, nor yet is it informal. One black frock in every wardrobe--an excellent recipe for smartness. The model in_white lace, with its hemline dippfhg sharply to one side and in the back, is tightly moulded through the hipline, has a narrow beaded girdle placed near the normal waistline, and a sleeve- | less Eton jacket that half covers f the girdle. One would say that the | designer has caught the very spirit j of spring in line and drape, and | expressed that spirit in the smart. | est fabric of the dawning season. | It will be noted that both models | feature the Fton jacket or the bolero--the one is the other grown up! 'This makes possible a8 two- in-one sort of frock that is meeting with a flattering success, for it can be used for an informal dinner and | Bo on to a really formal dance without a change other than a | simple one. A long sleeved jacket | of the material, which may be | slipped off at w ill, is the secret, | We are always interested in the | bead-embroidered and rhinestone- | studded frock that is so effective | under artificial lights. There are | stn many presentations of this | type of evening dress, but it has a | stress the importance of lace and | rival in the model that points its | The Tailleuwr--Perfection dn Line And Workmanship exemplify that importance with two models, one white, one black, as pictured. The frock of lace and chifign. carried out in black. shows the with rhinestone or crystal ornaments, or depends upon glit- tering jewelry for effect. Or there | may he the merest tracery of em- | broideries to achieve individuality, | beauty