oI sueds .or fur. «Ofter it adhieves height with a feather, a ibow, a aodâ€" ding .Bower. The fur hat s0. papiular Koy several seasons past finds new ways chic. It may s dfez or aA‘ ‘Persian ; pmbox. a diminutive sailor jafty "Aogueâ€"but almost almays it jJs angelieved by any .contrasting fabric. and coocktail Hat of fur also pramise to be popular, aftén ‘twith a of sueds .or #1 height with a : «ing .Aower. T tq- several seas q;t tkheam of lateâ€"come to stay for a while is the nippedâ€"in waistline (achievâ€" in these days not by lacing: but by et), heightening the illusion .of slimâ€" W with swing skirt and wide shouldâ€" ers. iBleeves develop a waywardness\all their.ownâ€"puffed at the shoulder; freâ€" quenutly and entertainingly remindful of -conpietely pompadoured (thanks ‘be that‘s gone beyond revival!) hourglau- ed of ‘waistline, legâ€"o‘â€"mutton sleeves,; <satrich crowned, you‘ll have a sneakâ€" ing suspicion that the Parisian couâ€" turiers, tongue in cheek, ‘are presenting| to disillioned 1988 their version of still: â€"at jeast slightlyâ€"illusioned 1898. A According to the fashion powers that: be, the autumn trend towards elegww{ centres gbout the new brushâ€"up cofffure. Upâ€"upâ€"upsyâ€"daisyâ€"goes the new hairâ€" do, presenting to the world a naked. nape !rom which smoothlyâ€"coliffed ‘hair sweeps upward to culminate : in curls clustering atop a charming head. Grace~â€"| ful, alluring, reminiscent of a > more; leisurely eraâ€"how could one possibly : reconcfle the high hair-ï¬x with : the : t.ï¬mly straight ‘little frocks of yester-: year? : With: the up-hair dqcor comes a, reâ€": yival of the "ladylike" | hats ‘of lateâ€" Vic an years, in a multiplicity .of : vari . ‘Stif and haughty hats,‘ made mu by bright quills. and wings‘ and riponsâ€"pheasants and cog feathers shootkig like lsemphores ifrom for- wardâ€"perched modelsâ€"even the : tailor-- ed felts which are always de. riguerur‘ int ce new tricks in the manipulaâ€" . tion.“oi brim and crown. Crowns slopâ€" ingf backward for high curls, crowns f Qinber and cocktall hat Of fur AlsO ,| pramise to be popular, oftéen twmh e i| aoatahing muff. hairâ€"dos and high hats Wd- shont sakirts, and Gaytime .dresses .are} in complete eccord with the demand; M too follow the Victorian trend gewards fluidity of line. Gone. is the M alimplicity which has characteriz- e8 tkem of lateâ€"come to stay for a while is the nippedâ€"in waistline ‘(achievâ€" in these days not by lacing: but by et), heightening the illusion .of slimâ€" mas with swing skirt and wide: shouldâ€" ers. Bleeves develop a waywardness.all their .wnâ€"puffed at the shoulder. freâ€" qwently and entertainingly remindful of . the legâ€"o‘â€"mutton. The new. bloused . Raok, ithe new princesse silhouette, are . m which are causing a femimne M first favourite of chic women, abill holds its placeâ€"but is being hard ( in the soft gathers. ' ‘to':melebte" coats with a slimming front . _Jaq woollen coats, supple contours are th, dominant new note. There are aleverly .detailed â€" dressmaker â€" coats which bring the fulness to the front, There are ipanel, muc pockets and collar of fur. T here‘s the skating girl silhouette which boasts an hourglass panel and upstandâ€" ing collar band of fur. There‘s the ‘bloused coat, belted and draped and luxuriously furred. Original in line, in ‘fabric, in furring, the autumn coat preâ€" sents infinite possibilities in smartness. ‘Suits, too, tend to individuality, with the same fondness for the unusual new, materials and a lavish use of fur, wheâ€" ther on casual tweeds or soft wools, or to make a "grande toilette" for the lady who would sally forth of an Afterâ€" | | noon in velvet and mink, tunbaned and muffed to match. Furs are indeed making history in the Even in millinery modes for formal oceasions the small silhoustte is of premier importance. â€" It may be of ostrich or velvet, of pasted feathers, P "for ‘curlis massed on the foreâ€" headâ€"â€"even the most severe of the new hats has perforce a dressedâ€"up look. knows? Butâ€"if you happen : to be fortyish and have childhood memories of mama sweeping in to say goodnlght’ mwwun.wanu oved Version of Much of the Uitraâ€"Fachionable o Days of 1898. . Blegunce Centres Ahpmewm Millinery Modes. memories!) were not stampeded into semething falsely termed "the mode"â€" but <still, in their quaint and funny nineteenth century fashion, exhibited a styleâ€"consciousness definitely personcl. Would it, perhaps, be a womanâ€"wide urge ‘towards that saner instinct for individuality which has inspired the back to the dear, dead days wiien even stylish women (perchance after the JING â€"SO SMARTâ€"AS A TAILORED COAT FOR FALL Story of Autumn 1938 Phone 1145 | With such a multiplicity of rarely; lovely "period" fabrics, what wonder: that the new style cycle of romantic: evening wear threatens to take the; fashionable world by storm. Wideâ€" skirted portrait gowns and slim sculpâ€"‘ tured silhouettes emerge as the modern‘ adaptations of the picturesque styles: of the turn of the century. It is the: sleeves that are, puffed, exciting, inâ€"; triguing, emphasize the slim, long lines:| of stemâ€"like gowns, and at the same, time give more elegance @and importâ€"; ance to the top of the silhouette. Even!‘ a gala gown of pink and silver brocade, by Molyneux boasts sleeves to the wrist â€"and Schiaparelli triumphs with a dress of red and black striped satin, puffed .sleeves .drooping from shoulders and skirt fulness to the back. At the extreme. Chanel uses pink satin to create a strapless gown, gored and bored at the waistline; black lace and net for.a fullâ€"skirted dreamy dance idness. Oapricious indeed is the evenâ€" ing modeâ€"yvery completely coverâ€" 'ad never on the fence. For evening splendor, fabrics . conâ€" form to the elegance of the mode. "There are lames more magnificent ‘than «ever, stiff and unbelievably lovely laces, exquisitely frothy nets. Moires are shot with interchanging colour, and even with sheet copper. The new strifRe patternings are fashion foremostâ€"in weaves, in metals, in prints, and jJacâ€" ‘quards for jackets and wraps are colâ€" ourfully Persian in design. ensemble in which a fur scarf is the: only contrasting accent. i There‘s a refinement to be found in: the new materials com.pleuely in keepâ€" ing with the vogue of the hour, a reâ€" finement noticeable alike in dayume weaves and evening fabrics. Sheer‘ wool voiles and crepes lead the new woollensâ€"and jersey, resurrected from| semiâ€"obscurity, promises to be well up in,the fashion running. It may be of wool .or silk â€".or rayon, and often may be mistaken for tweed. The trevival of anatelasse, embossed and sometimes: orinkled in a very stylized pattern., pressed by the new rich calours. Glowâ€" harks back once more to the ‘‘90‘s. Chevrons and herringbone stripes, too, are newâ€"old, and a new tweed with a "darningâ€"stitch" weave recalls grandâ€" mother‘s exquisite mending. LADIES !! Tip Top Tailors Come in this week and see the outâ€" standing Woollens and styles ofâ€" fered by Tip Top Tailors in Suits, Topcoats and Overcoats. Your Garment will be individuâ€" ally tailored in the new Mannish Styles for Fall. SEPTEMBER 24th to OCT. 1st | with Exceptional V alues Tailoredâ€"toâ€" Measure Garment Week are featuring mauake every fair lady comb consclious. Designers of jewelry motifs have exâ€" tended themselves to create rare and lovely ornamerits for this season of :eleâ€" ‘gance. The accessory mode cannot fail | to be more importantâ€"and more exâ€" citingâ€"than ever before. comfortable ‘coat also features the new «cuff, and its gracefully fitted lines are: not tonly a pleasure to the weéarer, but : ‘also a pleasure to the onâ€"looker. At. the same time, the fashionable woman will not forget a manâ€"tailored sult., Tipâ€"<Top Tailors are featuring the newâ€"; est in ‘both the suit and coat. On a: dummy that seems fuly aware of the fact that it is lucky for its clothes, is displayed a tailored suit in the new i pencil stripe. It is .doubleâ€"breasted,:‘ faeshioned with sylphâ€"like lines, and: ‘boasts the newest in the suit skirt â€"; wellâ€"fitted, and bearing only one soliâ€". tary pleat at the front. : Suede a Favourite in This Year‘s Shoes se 2 0000 . lt tenmad d‘.he ‘*hoot.ie†whwoh vmxrt.m:e:sl the high allâ€"around styleâ€"the sightâ€" scallop gore, with high gores fashionâ€" ed into the «idesâ€"ithe open throat tie shoe (no tongue), also "highâ€"riding,". brushedâ€"up hairâ€"do makes so much more impartant the jewels which will »co ‘bare necks of that denuded Jlook. pression. Sueds continues as the favâ€" oured footwear leatherâ€"in lovely new eclours with such intriguing names as QOparto plum, Chateau wine and Indo tanâ€"though rumeur has it that black suede will rank first this {fall. Accessories, the darlings of the mode, have many new ideas to uplcit. The Tipâ€"Top Tailors Feature 2 Women‘s Buits and Coats. Suedeâ€"suedeâ€"suede, and more suede, is the "shoe" cry for the fall. Always a great favourite with the fashionable woman, suede has taken a majestic step forward this year, and has pushed back all other aspirants for shoe glory, to reign in the shoe world. Sometimes it condéescends to a few strips: of alligaâ€" tor (which is definitely on the upward trend), and to patent, but gabardine has been pushed right out of the picâ€" ture. The suede. shce for the 1938 fall is fashioned with the round toe, short vamp, and All around "high" features. R. Neillls MShoe Store presents a few of ithe outstandj.ng shoe styles for the seasonâ€" a ‘plumb‘ suede pump, with scalloped top, and suede bow oxer the opan front, witth n'onn_;led toe, and shont "gentee!" femininity finds further exâ€" and suitable for the business woman. Manâ€"Tailored Coats With Many Features The newest in manâ€"teilored coats for l the modernâ€"and fashionable woman is the ~doubleâ€"breasted formâ€"fitting rag-‘ lan with the lower slash pockets and, R. Neill‘s Shoe Store Preâ€" sents Outstanding Modes. } Your bair is forever up on top of your head this fall, especially in the evening. There are no more concealed .ears, and no more fuzz on the back of your neck, rither. And you‘ll never iknow iuntil you try just how hard it to get your hair up on top of your head without fuzz on the back of your neck, and also without looking as though you had just had a bath. But Nevertheless are Vieiny With the Slender Lines. mess jackets made of maribou, or erâ€". mine; embossed quiltsd or smodked boleros, made of the same material as, the dress ‘brocades in old gold .or .copâ€" per . . . these on black for the amost! part. The shirt waist dress has invadâ€" ed the field for fall, and we sse it in one, case in «coral crepe with a pebblad : surface, with pleats and pockets trimâ€" med with glittering sequins, or rlse fistened down the front with rhineâ€" stone studs. And a wide rhinestone belt making a small waist look tiny, but we are afraid, a large waist look enormous. Ga Colours for 'Chlldren Thls Fall "Peasant Fashions" Popular ~ Continuing their overwhelming popuâ€" Jarity of this Summer, dirnd! {rocks and amusing Swedish peasant maid frocks lam choice for first school days in bright prints on dark grounds. Square necked and fullâ€"skirted, they are as pretty as a picture. Real Scotch plaid: Girl mode consists of a flnely pleated black chiffon skirt, creamy lace blouse (By Lois Btockdale) On the subject of evening dresses for fall, about the best thing we can say is have a care! ‘They seem to run in two schools . . . there is the very boulâ€" fant ‘beâ€"hooped type, which is grand on the very young or very lovely, and there is the Sleek butterâ€"smoosth new silhouetts, which hardly gives you a chance to breathe . . . but is very luscious. The hoop skirt is by far the loveliest thing we have seen for years and far the least practical. In fact, we would say from a quick survey, that unless you plan to dress an@ spend the eveâ€" ning in the centre of a large ball room, we don‘t know you‘ll manage. Such things as swinging doors, elevators, telephone booths, taxis will be a probâ€" lem, unless we can devise hoops like Naturally most of them are patterned after frocks of the last century, with sleeves .demurely off the shoulder, tiny waists, and the enormous skirt lined at the hem with ruffles. At Jleast, pantalettes haven‘t come back into style, thank goodness. One thing a person dces have to have to wear this romantic fashion is a lovely back and beautiful shoulders. i % Wear it in a deep purpleâ€"biue silk taffeta, with a scarlet velvet ribbon Jlacing through openings all around the skirt, to tie in‘ a mammoth bow at the front. White starched lace makes the frill which is mattached to the hoop, and ‘the bodice is as minute as posâ€" sible, with large puffed sleeves tied with the same shadc of ribbon, in a narrow width. (Or for a ‘very regal gown, take about 15 yards of stiff white satin, and put it over your hoops and allow about half a yard for the bodice, which is strapless. The ~only ornament allowed with this gown is (From New York Times) In a veritable merryâ€"goâ€"round of celour, local stores opened their chilâ€" dren‘s departments for the rush of backâ€"toâ€"school buying. Nothing is too gay in bright wool frocks. Scotch plaid coats, and gay little bonnets to meet the delighted sye of the "younger set." Fven small boys have their fun choosâ€" ing bright ties and striped shirts, sweaters and "loud" plaid jJackets. amusing Swedish peasant mald Irocks are choice for first school days in bright prints on dark grounds. Square necked and fullâ€"skirted, they are as pretty as a picture. Real Scotch plaid . frocks in wool or gingham are a deâ€"} light to little girls, too, especially when: made with pleated skirts and crisp tailored collars and pockets. i Girl mode consists of a finely pleated ‘black chiffon skirt, creamy lace blouse umbrallas, which we can put up or down at will. They are pretty, though. Th ‘difference between a dress without a hoop, and the same dress standing cout primly and showing every bit of th> lovely colour and material is enorâ€" mous. _ Straight dresses are still sporting jackets . . . boleros which fasten down the back embroidered with pailettes; short sweaters, knitted from gold yarn; is of course the prime favourite, with tones of copper, all the magentas and fuchsias you can imagine, the new duck blue and pink riding high in the fashâ€" ion world. This diuck blue, by the way, is a grand colour. It‘s a deep greenâ€"blue, with a wicked glitter to it which does things for blonde people, but alas, does thlngs to brunettes. a fine silver chain around your neck, weighed down with a heavy cluster of Tubies, and a rubyâ€"coloured sequin bag. ~Or have a silk faille dress, in gray and cream «and red . . . the gray volumincus skirt and soft daemure boâ€" dice with its high neck and tiny cream and redâ€"striped, turnâ€"down collar, its sleeves puffed below the shoulder and fluted pleating of cream and red rround the hem. However, frankly, our advice is this, If you can only get two frocks . .. one, let‘s say, a dinner frock and the other for formal occasions . . . then don‘t get a hooped one. Not unless you can wear it without the hoops as an alternative. The pencilâ€"slim dresses are really very chic . .. and very sophisticated. Black Rugged Clothes® for Men The Style in New York. sometimes couples it with a full blouse of silver lame pinstriped in green. Added impetus to the early 230th cenâ€" tury mode is the picture, "The Sisters," in which Bette Davis, Anita Louise and Jane Bryan simply revel in the cosâ€" tume of the day. Bimplicity vies with elegance in the very new picture fashions and the reâ€" sult seems to be a draw. ~We like to give Kay Francis at least one elegant gown in each pictiure beâ€". cause no one surpasses the brunette, star in clothesâ€"wearing ability. In her current "Curtain Call" she wears a, metal .cloth evening gown stripad in green and silver. The stripes running: horizontally are shirred to make her long bodice while the full skirt emâ€" ploys the stripes vertically. Another luxurious gown she wears in this picâ€" ture is black velvet dinner dress with yoke embroidered in gold sequins and rhinestones. With it she carries a velâ€" vet folding fan likewise embroidered. . with a gown for Anita Louilse in Warâ€" ner Bros. "Going Places" which has all the attributes Anita adores in the perâ€" scnal wardrobe. HMer ~#@vourite silâ€" houstte is the Grecian, so Shoup has draped the gown of pale pink crepe roma and finishes up with her preâ€" ferred colour combination by adding blue. Three luscious shades of blue chiffon are draped m shoulder to waist and calught in both places with big aquamarine clasps. For Ann Sheridan in "Angels With Dirty Faces," Milo Anderson creates a graceful gown of navy sheer. The skirt â€"paradoxicallyâ€"has slim fulness, while the ‘bodice is deftly draped in a orissâ€" cross. It is worn, with a brilliant emâ€" erald necklace and green orchids in the hair. Also on the simple side is a charâ€" trnouse weol dress Minna Gombell wears in the same picture. The bodice is given a draped treatment. Outstandâ€" ing are the combining colours, for with the dress go a hunter‘s green full lmgth wool coat and matching green tricorne hat along with gloves, bag and shoeos of rust. Glenda Farrell in "Torchy Gets Her ‘Man" is also dressed by Shoup. Eapeâ€" clally attractive in her wardrobe is a cocoa brown wool street dress fashioned with two big semiâ€"circular shirred pouch: pocksets an the bodice and . a matching pair just below the waistline. The dress ‘buttons down the front to a point half way between hem and waist where it falls into soft fulness. The big hat matches Glenda‘s gown, but all ‘her accessories are of alligator. Fur muffis stand out like expensive jew>ls on plain cloth coats and appear in a startling galaxy of shapes. Bonita Granville likes a heartâ€"shaped muff ‘of leopard with a zippered change purse inserted in its depth. iIt‘s youthful and gay with a cocoaâ€"coloured coat dress. Giving the "Motherâ€"Daughter‘"‘ mode a slightly different twist, Boanita‘s moâ€" ther wears a square flat muff of leoâ€" pard with a black wool coat dress. The square muff is also combined with a fully equipped handbag. Rosemary Lane â€" accents a hunter‘s green suit with a melonâ€"shaped mink muff suspended on ‘a tapaz bracelet: while Glaire Trevor likes a slim cylinâ€" ger of Persian lamb divided in the centre by a bright wvelvet ribbon. For the woman who likes just a dash of either coquetry or naivete in her formal ensemble, a ‘nonsensical little muff «of flowers, velvet or feathers is exactly the right touch. Penny Singleâ€". ton accents a honeyâ€"coloured taffeta| frock with a midget melon muff made entirely of purple pansies while she wrars a circlet of fresh pansies like a dollâ€"sized hat on her coiffure. Prisâ€" cilla Lane frequently sports tiny Mark down muffs as something to ba remembered on an autumn shopping tour. They are a luseful luxury that are getting a renewed grip on ladies in the Hollywood Fashion Parade despite the fact that the California weather doesn‘t make them necessary Aas a handâ€"warmer. Scotch Grain Brogue . Specify Step out this weather in a pair of these stylish durable shoes, designed to give you the utmost in comfort and the longest wear. Pebbled or plain calf in black or brown. Plaim Calf $7.50 ecouples a perfectly round flat ane with blue princess coat and a plaid Glenâ€" garry bonnet. Fur coats this year come in every variety of furâ€"from the chubby skunk tapper or short coat, to the sleekest of Russian caraculs The most popular siyle is the wox, or boxy swagger conat. Shoulders are not necessarily large, but all of them are squared. Sleeves are simple, perferably made on straight lines, with the rather wide cuff as a highlight. Collars are smaller than in other years, but show greater variety in types. There is the narrow band collar, and then, again, the exact opâ€" posite, the heavy fox collar, which frames the head. But no matter what style of coat the fashionable woman wears, she chooses lines that will Natter her: figure . . . lines that sesem to be made sspecially for her. One of many fashionable coats at Mrs. Durochâ€" Furs Particularly Attractive This Fall Pleasing Array of the Latâ€" est Modes at Mrs. Duâ€" rocher‘s Style Shoppe. NEILL LTD. z> Elegance Plus ! Proudly we present our new line of furs . . . and the most brilliant fashions you‘ve seen Eo Ee EP PP enE hudl wiref en w ind in years. The model above ideal in both style and wearing abilities is designed to give you the most in fur luxury and priced with the lowest. We invite you to inspect "this" and other smart styles at your earliest conâ€" venience., *A s Corner Fourth Ave. Cedar St. Style Shoppe Furriers AGENTS FOR STAN WALKER LIMITED Manufacturing Furriers Mme. Lane Bryantâ€"Mrs. Albert Méaiâ€" sinâ€"revealed at St. Loula that the naâ€" tional chain of dress singps bearing her name was started 38 years ago An a where she was forced to,provide:a livyâ€" gowns and lingerie for wealthy clienâ€" gave credit because I wouldn‘t have had money enouhg to buy materials for the next day." er‘s Style Shoppe, who rapresents Atan Walker Ltd.,. manufacturers and $urâ€" riers since 1873, is a tuxedo frant perâ€" sian lJamb. The tmxedo Mt 4s davâ€" oured by the shopper bec it narâ€" rows the front of the ocpat, tecause, when it is closed like an ordinary coat, it provides a doubleâ€"breagted Lfront, givâ€" ing more warmth than any .other coat. Another new development in furs this faills, is the fur hat that is made in any style that its wearer may choose, thus bringing furs to the ‘felt height in the millinery world. "In those days," she said, "I mused to work until two in the moming designâ€" enough ‘business to open a small shop. After that, success came swWiftly. ALL SIZES AND WIDTHS MUSKR with all the loveliness af Canadian : Mink, â€" Priced at Only