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sme12 leather is better naturally by tim harshaw manager of matts place the store for men vs nostalgia is sweeping the western worid perhaps this is due to these very un certain times the lack of integrity and direction shown by governments and the seemingly uncon trollable world problems of overpopulation food and resource shortages more and more people are grasp ing at values and objects from the good old days antique shops on every corner have over sold their supply consumer desire to asso ciate with rear things has created an increasing demand for fashions in full grain leather full grain leathers are as individual as a fingerprint original grain surface with none of the surface re moved because of the life style of the animal it acquires many natural markings and it is these vbeauty marks lets stop calling them faults that give tanners and designers a challenge to incorporate these marks into leather fashion styling marks such as briar and other scratches are no- detriment to the perform- ti fp hides however its only a question of time j many of the traditional lea ther are popular such as cowhide lamb suede pig suede and cabretta how ever new leathers are being developed as demand and versatility in creases many analine leathers are being introduced ana- line refers tothe type ofiss tannage no colour paint is added no surface finish brushed on it is what is termed nude leather for this reason the hand is very fine and the tanned skins are very supple all natural marks show up and tanners do nothing to pre vent this colour variation is evident and a garment may be shaded v ance of leather veins near the grain surface growth marks small insect bites create interesting effects and add character to the grain of the leather the only marks so far not in corporated into the finished product are the brands which appear on nearly all analine lamb analine glazed persian analine capeskin and analine hairr sheep from exotic coun tries all over the gfobe are being grabbed up by the consumer with no regard for the cost of the garment because of their unique quality and sensuous com fort v care of leather suede leather has a builtin tendency to breathe for this reason leathers should never be stored in plastic bags but hung in a well ventilated closet or similar area keep new leather garments away from other clothes to prevent its scent from being transferred never store leathers in either a hot attic or damp cellar the result is driedout faded discolored rotted or mil dewed clothes wooden or padded hangers preserve garments shoulder shape for long storage periods drape gar- mehts loosely with a cloth to keep off dust dont store gar ments that are stained or soiled this would attract moths hungry for suede nap have- clothes cleaned and profes- sionally mothproofed avoid hometype aerosols which may discolor garments forget mothballs they inhibit leathers- breathing most wrinkles will hang out overnight but if you must press a leathersuede garment set iron on lowest setting no steam use heavyduty brown wrapping paper between the iron and the leathersuede surface iron lightly and quickly to avoid overheating wet lea thersuede should be allowed to dry at room temperature away from direct source of heat sponge or brush with a dry towel to remove water stains and restore nap brush in one direc tion only suede seldom needs dry cleaning if brushed regu larly to keep dust from settling in the nap most spots and light stains can be removed easily with a art eraser 5j smooth leather may be cleaned with a damp cloth spread garment wipe lightly then pat dry and if necessary wipewith a dry towel to remove water stains crocking shedding is natural to new suede and can be brushed with a dry towel to remove loose fibres it never completely stops so keep brushing bleeding colour trans- fer may result from light suedes hanging next to dark ones store sep arately i would like to thank the cooperative people with the jj sheepskin a division of macdonald stewart textiles for providing me with much of the con tent of this editorial