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home dbess maxihg the appreci t on with whljh thia depart meat haa ben lece vjd encourages to go on with the cooa work and assise home t exera as mnh aa possible with timely hints r made of woolen or silt goods with velvet fioisbings the pointed vest fastens in breton style has a collar of the same fabric and a v of light galloon matching the band over the velvet oofei on the loosely fitting coat sleeve the round barque is fitted with one dart on either side and has a fullness from the shoulders in folds to the waist line where they end under email bows of o 9 ribbon the velvet accessories may be of a contrast ing color or a shade darker than the woolen material selected fig no 97 is a pretty deugu for the now y4- fig 93 and illustrations we do nt give patterns of the designs shown hero but they are sufficiently large and eo clearly explained that they can bo token aa models when desir ed dressy jacket bodices are in dema nd for home and evening wear made of cashmere or velvet and rurab or crepe fig 93 illuatrates one of copperred cashmere copper galloon and cream colored surah to bo worn with copper colored or black skirts one of black velvet gold galloon and golded yellow surah would be handsome with a trimmed iklrb of any calorr tha back u cut in a blunt point with s round neck correap ending with thejoket fronts that open over a guimpe of aurah laid in knife pleats over a lining of tho naual bodice abape and opened invisibly under one fio 94 of the pleats tho girdleshaped belt ia sewed in one aide seam and booked over to the other after the bodice is fastened tne aleeves have a puff added to the top then are plain to the elbows where they bang in a puff over a deep cuff trimmed with the galluon as are tho jvskeb edges and burah oollar the neck edge of the fronts ia sewed down but the rest hanga free and ia fitted to the figure by carving them in at the aide seams in plaoe of single darts fig no 96 represents a handsome design for a house toilette or a street dress to be worn under a long cloak blaok henrietta oloth is shown for a flit front right aide in three kilt pleats and full gathered back with a narrow panel of persian silk show ing yellow red blue black and green ahadea the barque ia very short and bluntly pointed baofe and frnt with ooat or full sleeves aa wished cv ffs oollar long rovers and veat ara of the silk the vest openiog in fio 97 fashionable blouse waists worn with odd skirts anrah cashmere and striped frenoh flannel are used for them with feather- stitohing galloon braiding or simple stitch ed edges for the finish eiffel red surah la represented in our illustration withoubany extra trimming the lining ia fitted like an easy basque with the outer fronts laid in loose folds from the shoulders which are securely taoked at the waist line under a belt of the same pointed and lapped in front the back is arranged in a hollow box- pleated postilion similar to pattern no 4350 in the august number only that the edge of the blouse is rounder in effeot hooks and eyes are uasd for the fastening the collar ia straight and tho i sleeves are shirtshaped with band ooff fig no 98 illustrates an odd bleeve appropriate for a home dress or towown two materials bein required to show it off back and front and full fronts laid in folds on the shoulders the left front continuing down to form he apron inonepleoe which hangs long on one aide and ronnds npon fio 100 fio 95 breton style and consisting of two length wise puffs black ribbon from the right side seam is tied on the left bright cashmere and black armure silk or surah of the red green or blue color of the woolen fabrio onld be stylish after this ar rangement for aa elderly lady blaok silk and brocade would answer gray oashmere and blaok armure or blaok henrietta and blaok brooade colored brocaded silk and blaok or cream fishnot would be an elegant combination for a reception toilette or tho accessories could be of plain silk overlaid with openwork silk embroidery point de genes lace etc fig no 94 is suitable for any soft material that will gather in easy folds the lining ii coatshaped with the outside material out wider at the back and the extra fnllnosa gathered over tho top and the point of the cuff and caught abovb tho elbow with an ornamental button matohing the one at tho inner rfh vtho velvet ouff two iquare absf- r fio 98 to advantage and a finish of narrow galloon oord passementerie etc the lining is out like an ordinary coat sleeve the outer material shown in stripes is coatshaped nearly to the wrist where the extra length is pushed up to form loose folds bbovg the ouff of plain material trimmed with galloon the deep cap of plain goods is shirred in three rows to form a puff around the top of the arm sfza falls nearly to the elbow and ia trimmed with galloon plain woolens plaids and striped oheviots are stylishly fashioned after fig nc 99 with machine stitching showing on the edges for a finish if preferred braid ing could trim the collar rovers sleeves j and one large pointed figure called an eiffel design oovsrs nearly all of tho skirt front blaok braid being handsome on any color the lining of the t kirt is shaped and finished in the naual manner and on this is arranged the fist narrow front overlapped by two narrow kilt pleats on eaoh side and a plain space before reaching the full gath ered back which ia shirred in fine rows below the belt the short basque hag a habit back illustrated in pattern no 4332 september number7diyergent points in front notched rolling oollar and a high one above coat leaves slightly full over the top and metal buttons i i i these short basques will not keep in place fio 102 on the left a cord of gold braid hide3 tho joining of the bodioe and skirt and ties on the left after passing through a slit made in the loose front the full short sleeves and folds in the paors ookcbbnihg whalbb less known about ike largest animal than about some uutare microscopic of all the modern scientist engaged in the work of investigation perhaps none hive adopted a field more peculiar and entertain ing than prof frederick w true of the national museum prof true is a young man but be has already spent five years of bis career as a scientist in looking up one subject whale the reason that my attention was direct ed to this sobjaot particularly said prof true to a reporter was the fact that so little was known to scientific men concerning whales the works on zoology either creat ed the whale with a few generalizations or ignored it altogether my purpose haa been to cover this field as well aa it possibly can be done with auoh sources of information as are available 1 spent fourmonths in england and the continent of europe in the study of specimens only about eighteen species of the fifty six that frequent the coast of north america are well known and the majority of these of forms which have long been under obser vation the number of species whose habits variations and distribution are thorougnly understood is still smaller the life of tho whale is passed with but little of it being visible and it is not an approachable animal what is known of its life has been obtained at long raugeand many errors have thereby crept in i all the romance about thrilling advexturks in the capture of the whale has had w day it ia still regarded as a dangerous occupation you will hear no more scorits of handharpooning and tho smoking line running out overtne bow the boat towed by a leviathan at lightning apeed and all those details that illuminated the old time atoriea of the sea now whales are kilid with a bomb lance fired aa any other jctile at a moderately long range it caries an ex plosive substance that detonates when the lance j enters the body of the i whala that is the modern way tho whalo ia generall harpooned afterward in order to make it fast and unleas thia ia attempted before the whale is dead it ia not ttended with ao danger what are aomo 1 the popular fallacies in regard to whales in the first place the greatest of them all is that the whalo is a fish it is a mammal with none of the bharaoteriatica of a fish ex oept that it exists in the water an animal that nuraes its young and has rudimentary hind legs could hardly correspond to a fish in any respect in almost every cut of a whale you will see the animal aponting a tre mendous volume of water from hia blow holes this is purely an imaginary habit on the part of the whales the blowholea of the whale correspond to the nostrils of other animals when it comes to the surface to breathe expels the air from its lunga with a violent effort its noatrila are apt to be slightly under water and the result ia c column of spray of water when a while had been harpooned so that its lungs hid been penetrated it is likely that the whale spouted blood and water through its noatrils and this has confirmed the original error when the sailors observed it at close rsnge another popular error continued piol true ia iht all whales furnished while- bone the two great classifications among whales are the toothed and the whalebone varieties the 8pebm whale ong time before we know all that it ia necessary to know about the rovers of tho sea it is indeed strange that while tho external and internal peculiarities and tha lifehistory of numberless insects and minute wid loly animals have been thoroughly investigated many of these great beast have been entirely neglected supersritionb about babies the custom they are subjected tola various countries in ireland a belt made of womans hair ia placed about a child to keep harm away garlic salt bread and steak are put into tha cradle of a newborn baby in holland roumanian mothera tleredribbons around the ankles of their children to preserve them from harm while esthonian mothera attach bits of asaafetida to the neck of their off spring welsh mothers put a pair of tongs or a knife in the cradle to insure the safety of their children the knife is also used for the same purpose in some parts of eagland among the vosges peasant children born at a new moon are supposed to have their tongues better huog than others while those born at the last quarter are supposed to have leas tongue but better reasoning powers a daughter born during the waxlngmoon is al ways precocious at the birth of a child in low brittany the neighboring women take it in oharge wash it oraok its joints and rub its head with oil to solder the cranium bones it is then wrapped in a tight handle and its lips are anointed with brandy to make it a full breton the greoian mother before putting her child in its cradle turns three times around before the fire while singing her favorite song to ward of evil spirits in scotland it is said that to rook the empty cradle will insure the coining of other occu pants for it the london mother places a book under the head of the new born infant that it may be quick at roading and puta money into tho first bath to guarantee its wealth in the future tbe turkish mother loads her ohild with amulets as soon as it is born and a small jio of mud well steeped in hot water prepwed by previous charma is struck on its fore head in spain the infants face is swept with a pine tree bough to bring good luck in america the child is handed over to a nurse with instructions to raise it on the bottle no material pre j set beyond fio 90 tho edge of tho velvet enff and must be atifuy interlined with canvas to keep them in shape the buquo shown in fig no 95 will provo very becoming to a slight figure whan fio 99 without two safoty hooka are sewed on oaoh side and loops to correspond are worked in the skirtbelt otherwise tho bacque pulls up over tho hips showing a line of white when least desired such gowns are worn for travelling and shopping and shonld entirely escape the floor oven thongh some french dresses show the edgo dragging in everything but a stylish or neat manner uso a small narrow bustle and one twelveinch reed phced twelve to fourteen iuobea below the waist fig no 100 illustrates a grecian drapery that will be irorn this season on evening houso and tea gowns of silk brocade or fine woolen goods trimmed with tinsel or silk cord galloon or silk ombroidery if designed for aftornoon wear full sleeves or coatshaped onos ending in wrist puffs of a contrasting material will bo in better tase than tho elbow shape shown whioh are intended for evening wear croim colored cashmere and gold braid are represented inoui illustration the braid being a third of an inch in width and sewed on in tho familiar greek border or scroll tho gathered skirt is four yards and a half wide edged with the eoroll and hung over a lining of ordinary shape the round waist is cut with a v in tho fio 103 neok are of oroim colored ciepe and the sleeveoapayong beneath sloped to nothing on top and gathered in the armaizas are ofoashmnro ntano 0 a cord a looae golden belt falling loosely over the hips may be worn longoream snede gloves a while fin slippers and hose finiah a comparatively inexpensive evening toilette the hair should ba dressed in a grecian knot waved on top and confined with two narrow gold bands as illustrated old rose or pale green and silver form attractive costumss of the same order tho skirt shown in fig no 101 is made over the usual shaped lining having one reed and a small bustle bordered goods are shown made up crosswise and the skirt ia arranged in one piece the under front is plain and tho remainder of tho material ia laid in kilt pleats whioh are pressed not caught in position jvtjtho end on the left aide is draped careless ly as represented to take away the too straight appearanoe take eight yards of gooda to pleat up into auch a skirt a bor der of ribbon cl three widths no8 5 7 and 9 makes a piotty showing placed an inch apart on he stab hercules braid press a pleabid skirt on the wrong aide after baatlng it firmly remembering to lap the pleats more at the top to fit them in the belt wring a oloth almost dry cut of bloan water and lay over the okirt then iron until porfectly dry of coureo the border must bo sewed on beforo preeelng pleats ore nob caught nowadays aa an easy look ia wished thongh they should keep in place from tho pressing fig no 102 is pretty in ony woolen ma terial for either a house or street drer eiffel red caahtnero is illustrated with blck moire red surah and blaok fishnet the skirt is gathered thiokly in the back slight ly in tho front and laid in three kilt pleats on each aide tho round waist has threefolda on the left front and a black moiro revers on the rigbt it laps at tho waist aao over a v shaped vest of red surah coverod flatly with black fishnet with the front of the collar to cor respond tho remainder being of moire to match tho caffs on the peffed sleeves a sash of black moiro ribbon is tied on the left sido ladies remakmg half worn dresses will bo suro of a stylish trimming if they uso velvet ribbon of one or three widths as a border or front the latter imitate the french roba dresses that have a woven front of blaok velvet cross stripes beginning at tho bottom about four inches wldo and ending in a quatrer inch stripe at the tap is a toothed whale and the right whale is a whalebone whale the whalebone in a pood- sizsd whale is worth several hundreds of dollars tho toothed whalos really have not much use f it their tuetn as they cannot ohew anything with them they are merely a row of points that serve to grasp a fish or other kind of prey and hold it until ir can work it down its throat the teeth are only on the lower jaw there are no molare among the teeth and they cannot grind the food then the jaw is not hung so that it can do anything more than snap the whalebone whale uses the fringe of whac- bone around the upper jaw in lieu cf teetbl it strikes a school of shellfish whioh abound in great numbers in tho sea and when it gets them in its mouth it close its jws the water is i quetzal out and the whale swallows vf ry thing that is left how urge an objeot can a whale swal low the throat of 4he largest speoimen is not more than three inobes and a half in rtiame ter jonah was a very small man if he mado the round trip through a whales throat have any epsoieabeen exterminated from what we know it is not probable for a few years the right whale disappear ed totally from the north american coar none were stranded and there was no evl- enco that any more w re in existence a year or two ago one or two specimens wore seen and now they are reasonably plentiful again whether they disappeared because they were pursued by manor ior some reason we cannot establish that they totally dis appeared however is conclusive the f c in that when a certain kind of whalo becomes eo soarco as to be in danger of extermination it then becomes unprofitable to chase it and the opportunity for a renewal of the breed is favorable do tbey breed rapidly one or two at a birth is the rule tha smallest varieties generally bear twins and a single ono at a birth is probably the case with tho greater varieties the infants are horn pretty well able to take ore of them- st ives though they abe carefully nubsed by the mother until they are swift enonph to provide themselves with food it is the belief that the mother floats on her side on top of tho water when nursing so that tho young can suokle with their blowholes out of water whether thia is true or not i do not know a female with young is very wary and difficult to approach so that very little can be gathered on this point from actual obervaion dowhulcs ever sleep that ia one of tho many things that we do not know sperm whales have been known to lio on the water motionless for a considerable period but it can only ba guessed whether they aro asleep or not a whale could not sleep nnder water for any length of time it has a capacity for stor ing a ercat deal of air in the blood vessels that fill tho nock and aro found well down through the body but at tho furthest tbii could not loss it more than a half hour when it would have to como to the surface to blow it is assumed that many of the lower forms of life never sleep but in tho case of the whale i do not know that that point has ever been investigated it will be a civilized customs a large number of our modern ouatoms have becomo so much a socond nature to us that itis difficult for us to realize tho strange impreision whioh tbey produce npon others say the boston herald if the planet mars has residing upon it human beings iu any way resembling ourselves ic is probable that heir whole system of life is different from ours and that a visib to mars if suoh a thing were possible would prove to ua that nob a few of our customs are so far supoi filial that thoy depend for their existence entirely npon local traditions and restriotod social surroundings the tendency among the civi lized nations of the world is to conform to certain conventi nil type henee although there are minor difference jho thoughts and habits of those in polite society in europe and america do nob differ materially but the chinese have been brought up almost in another world and they find more difficulty in comprehend ing the signifioanoy and utility ot our customs than we do in understanding theirs a chinese mandarin who has recently been travelling in europe has printed an account of impressions reoeived during his travels for the benefit of hia own oountrymen and soma of the facts contained in the treatise are in structive and at the same time amusing he entirely fails to understand the treatment accorded to women in europe that a hus band and wife should walk arm in arm la public places filled him with amazement nobody smiled at it he says and oven a husband may perform any menial task in his wifes presence yet no one would laugh at him it is tht oustom in china for tho women to feed upon what is lotb after the men have finished their meals but in the west he sayb at meal time the menr must wait until the women aro seated and then take one after another their plaoes eni the eame rule muat be observed when tho meal is finished this oonstitoho in his opinion a degree of oonrtcny whioh is incomprehensible another custom that greatly bothered him is the form of saluta tion whioh consists in kissing i as the thing or word does not exist among the chinese ho finds it necessary to desoribe it it is he says a form of conrtcsy which consists iu presenting the lips to tho lower part of the nhln and making a aonnd aain otildren when visiting their seniors apply their mouth to tho left or right lips of tho elder with a smacking noise various forms of social entertainment are noted and his description of dancing parties is perhaps as striking as anything invltitlons ho says aro given to skip and posture the hoab deoides what man is to be the partner of what woman and what woman of what man then with both arms grasping eaoh other they leave their placea in pairs and leap skip poature and prance to their mutual gratification a man and a woman previously unknown to oaoh other may take part in it we have not the least doubt that not a few of tho details whioh this travelling mandarin has given will strike his chinese fellowcitizens as indica tive of a decidedly low typo of civilization when compared with that which now exists and has for so centurios existed in china thoughtless bat unkind mr smitho said a yonn woman i heard a gentleman say that you had somo of tho marked characteristics of a poet ah im glad to know that my littlo efforts in vorao hro appreciated yes he beams to his mind seems to run on poets it wb only yesterday that ho aaid he thought most of them were more or leas wrong mentally- stranger ho i ho i guess you didnfc make much out of that man tramp x borrowed five dollars of him eh five dollars why ivo known that man lor years and a closer stinger fellow never lived yon borrowed five dol lars of him yes hero it is great snakes say im in business fn chicago go west with mi and ill take you into partnership new york weekly a