Ontario Community Newspapers

Stouffville Tribune (Stouffville, ON), September 20, 1889, p. 8

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home dbessaakeso a pieoe of ribboa velvet and one of valenclennena insertion each an inch and a quarter vide will answer for figure no 71 which b a dressy basque for homo wear nslngsilkornloe woolen skirts withit either do without a lining making bag seam at the shoulders and sides or use one of white lateen cut the lining out first then sew the stripe of ribbon and insertion tegether fio 71 laving the edge of the velvet over that of the insertion the vest is of white orape or surah laid in fine pleats and hooked up invisibly the full sleeves are of net puffed at the top where they are strapped with velvet and finished with laoe edging beneath a band and a bow of the velvet ribbon the high collar has strips of ribbon and a rosette in front of lace and ribbon on the lower edge is a deep laoe frill and at the waist line are two rosettes and straps of velvet ihe new basques for early fall gowns have a blunt point in front sides just to the waist line and a pointed back slashed to the waist one or two vaudyka tabs or the habit deign whioh is narrow flat and usually left opon up the middle seam co prevent suoh short baiquea from poll ing up thus leavlne an undesirable apace between the skirt and edge sew two safety- hooks on the basque edge on eaoh side and work silk loops on the skirt just below the belt to correspond ihe most jaunty basques are either fasten ed with flat buttons under a fly or hooks and eyes jacket basques promise to be in high favor with young ladies they may be out short and round like a zouave jaoket or square across the waist line slmiliar to the eton garment in either case the square habit or bluntly pointed baok is in good taste figure no 72 illustrates a charming cos tume for a young lady of slender figure sage green oashmere is shown with a garni- fio 72 tore of blaok and green bilk worked galloon the french waist is without darts in the outside material being full on the shoulders and gathered to a slight point in front with two hands of the trimming arranged in deep points tho sleeves are gathered at the arm sizes and in to deep onffa made of two bands of the galloon sewed together the collar is of the same a blaok moire sash is folded and passed around the waist so as to preserve a sharp point baok and front and ties in the baok ihe waist hooks invisibly ihe full skirt has two bands of the trim ming as a border broken however by- three narrow pleats of blaok surah on eaoh side ihe herder oould be omitted aoross the back if desired and the pleats be of the oashmere ihe combination of blaok with 42 ill fio 74 gray blue green and oldrose is a stylish idea figure no 73 represents a remodeled- jersey though the design would be equally appropriate for a oashmere or cloth buque ihe lower edgo is of a round shape with a border ot moire silk tapered to a point in front and running up eaoh side as revere ihe vest may be of the woolen material moire or surah with a collar of moire and fastens an breton style sewed down on one side and hooked over on the other or hook ed invisibly a mblre ribbon orosses the front at the waist line and should tie iu loops and ends on the left side ihe slseves are slightly full over the top and trimmed with moire cuffi plastrons in fiohu stylo folds from eaoh fio 75 shoulder crossed at the waist una under a sash belt remain in vogue with the now fashionable jacket fronts on coats and bas ques the short wide inoroyable rovers turned oer the armsit are stylish with the dir- ectorire frill which is a knifepleated ruffle of silk laoe or silk muslin about four inches wide sewed on the lapped edge of a basque or a waist from the neck to the waist line ihe sleeve represented in figure no 74 is more appropriate for thin or soft materi- than those of a heavy weight it u full shirred at the bottom to form air 111 gather ed la two rows over the elbowand again at the armsize ihe outer or cap piece is pleated in the armslzs and shirred below to fio 80 form two frills whioh are doubled not hemmed figure no 75 is stylish for woolen and silk goods plain or brocaded silk looking well with oashmere and embroidered or hraided galloon for the trimming on the fronts oollar cuffs and belt ihe coat has a princesae baok with sides that are out off at the waist line and arranged like gathered sides to the skirt lifted a trlfls in front ihe jacket fronts are turned back to form short revers have one dart on eaoh side coat sleeves slightly gathered over the top draped ooffs of brocade and a band of the fio 77 trimming below ihe full plastron is fasten ed breton style over a tight fitting lining with a pointed belt at the waist ihe skirt front of brooade requires two breadths of fio 73 silk with a seam on each side not in the middle another jaoket costume is shown in figure no 76 the skirt is gathered all around ex cept in the centre front whioh is oovered plainly with blue cashmere braided with black cord ihe rest of the skirt is bordered with braiding falls over the front and is of four breadths of oashmere hung over a lining faced with the same the jaoket basque has eton fronts habit back rolled collar ooat sleeves and a trim ming of the braiding ihe blouse vest is of blue surah laid in sidepleats and a sash from the left sideseam ties on the right side figure no 77 is suitable for wash silk or woolen goods it has but one beam the inside one whioh is sloped as illustrated ihe sleeve is gathered over the top and at the baok on the lower edge a cuff of velvet silk or embroidery is turned up over the edge figure no 78 requires thin fabrios like surah or india silk veiling lace orepon etc with a belt of the lame or ribbon fast ened in front with a passementerie ornament fio 76 oorrespondlnsr with those on the oollar cuffs and top of the sleeves the moubs is msde over a olosefittlng lin ing and fastens invisibly in front ihe top part is shirred in puffs imitating a yoke baok and front with full sleeves gathered into band onffa and puffed at the top by gathering them in the armsizes and on eaoh side for a snort distance down the sleeve stout figures will find figure no 79 a mmk fio 78 becoming costume for woolen or silk goods if the extreme plain appearance is not de sired the basque may- be trimmed- with cuffs and of soutache velvet etc ihe coat sleeves are given an easy fit by a few gathers over the top the collar is high and the short basque has a pointed back the skirt is laid in three kilt pleats in front three on each side turned toward the centre with flit sides and full gathered back which has the left edge cut to form a few jabot folds with the upper part laid in a cluster of folds caught under a false pocket held by two button figure no 80 is a full sleeve of the medici fio 79 design made over an ordinary coat sleeve lining two materials are shown the darker being fathered along eaoh seam and caught here and there on the lining to keep the fullness in place the upper part is gathered over the top and on the lower edge and then caught towards the back bands of galloon ribbon or velvet furnish the necessary garniture all sleeves are full even those of velvet which are to be worn with cloth oashmere or silk velvet- trimmed dresses they are simply gathered tuoked puffed or draped at the top by cutting the outside wide and ion enough to oatoh in loose folds here and there above the elbows sleeves on street dresses are sufficiently long to cover the wrlstb turnedover frills for collars and cuffs will be worn in the hones after they are given up for tho street blouses of surah flannel or cashmere will throw the jersey in the shade this winter thev are made over a lining worn with a belt have the fio 81 skirt part outside of the dross full sleeves and a shirred tuoked or smooked yoke figure no 81 is a blouse of india silk with the french turnedover collar and cuffs of the material knife pleated a roffla around the lower edge and tho direotolre frill from the throat to the waist line tapering to the belt of silk buckled in front ihe silk is without darts but the lining has the usual number and the baok is in one pieoe with the fatness at the waist held by the belt the ooat sleeves are gracefully full over the top cloth basques to weir with odd tklrts and plastrons have jaoket fronts old basques are remodeled by cutting the fronts off at the waist line adding jaoket over fronts girdle and sleeves of velvet habit basques of oloth to wear with striped or plaid woolen skirts have basques added across the fronta and sides with cross or newmarket seams the velvet jaoket fronts that will remodel an old basque or add elegance to a new one may bo cut short and round or square aoross at the waist line a narrow gimp to trim the edge is a matter of taste and expense only the velvet must match the shade of the dress or plastron the invisible fastening of basques so often alluded to is made with hooks and eyes put on to aa to alternate first a hook then an eye on the same side whiob prevents any unhooking but as this is very wearisome to fasten many dressmakers use small safety- hooks and eyes the latter set under the edge so that only enough of them peeps out to slip the hook over another plan la to use a separate fly with buttonholes worked in it sewed to the right side of the basque and caught to il here and there between the buttonholes and then have very flat buttons on the other side allowing a good lap as none of thess invisible fastenings must give tho slightest hint of how they are held cuffs are merely a wristlet band on the full shirt sleeves or deep and pointed on direotolre oaats lsgo mutton sleeves fit very olosely about the wrist and are prettily finished with turnedover ouff of knife- pleated muslin or laoe when a skirt front is made full with two or three tnok drawn up by ribbon or taps the tuck must be folded up ward and from one inoh and a half or two inohos deep when finished aooording to thickness of tho material panels of silk gathered in several rows over the hips may have tho gathers over a cord if wished as any suoh individual fancies are now stylish if well dene and becoming to the wearer she who invents some trifling but striking fad in dress is now considered a fortunate and brilliant woman silenoed- fussy old gentleman theres a fly on your noaernum k j r i i irascible old iidy he aint yours i he hahged with a smtrfi oh res lips- lite last woman whs buffered ike extreme penally in brltlah territory the lt instance so far as we are aware of the hrglig of a woman in british domin ions was that of louisa collin who in jan- nary this year was executed in sydney for the murder of her husband michael peter collins the woman belonged to the lower order of life and had been exceedingly handsome she married an elderly man named andrews who was considered well eff in the circle of laboring folk to which he belonged and by him had five or six child ren they lived about eight miles from sydney on the shores of botany bay in 1885 a young man named michael peter collins lived in the house more aa a person al friend than a lodger it soon became ap parent to andrews that an illicit connection existed between bis wife and collins and the result was that after a fcbiocs quarrel the latter was turned out of the house he still however continued to visit the woman secretly shortly afterward andrews fell ill and after lingering a few weeks during which time he was attended by a doctor and nursed by his wife he suooumbed scarcely was his body cold before the woman posted to sydney to olalm a sum of money for which his life was insured and the same night she and collins with some of their less reputable neighbors indulged in a danoe followed by a debauch in an adjacent house the medical man who had attended andrews entertained no suspicion and gave a oertlfioate in whioh death was ascribed bo it noted to gastro cnttrilis within a week louisa andrews became louisa collins and the newly wedded pair continued to reside in the same looallty collins was a weakminded young fellow and perverted by the woman beoame utterly worthless continually losing his employment and falling into the habits of an idler a drunkard and a gambler eventually he seems to have lost the affections of the woman who had made him what he was and in 1888 he foil iu and died a similarity between his symptoms and those of his pre decessor andrews exoited suspicion a postmortem examination revealed thb peksbnok oj absehic in his body arsenio was found in the house and louisa collins was arrested the body of andrews was by tho direotion of the coroner txhumed and a minute quantity of arsanic was discovered in the coffin the woman was committed to take her trial on the the two charges of poisoning tho oase for the oro wn was overwhelmingly strong and the defence was very weak without entering into details it may be mentioned that the woman obtained the poison in the form of a vermin preparation known as bough en bats although the oase was perfeotly olear and there was no confliot of medical testimony five judges in turn presided at her trials and four juries being unable to agree were discharged this ia probably owing to the fact that tte feeling in favor of the abolition of capital punish ment is very strong in australia at the fifth trial whioh was presided over by sir frederiok darloy the chief justice of new south wales the jury agreed to a verdiot of guilty the country concurred in the verdiot and on jan 21 last the murderess was hanged in darlinghurst jail sydney throughout all her trials this woman who seemed to lock the most ordinary moral perceptions pre served an air of complete indifferenoe and she walked to the scaffold with a firm step her lips ourled in a mocking sir ho it may appear mean and behind the age to hint at the necessity of our girl being trained to all the mysteries of the kitchen to darning stockings aa well a to millinery and dressmaxjng it needs to be done however and can all be secured without one of the real accomplishments being either lost light of or forgotten how can any body be cheerful when dyspeptic and how can dyspepsia be avoided so long a so many are three times a day forced to consume what no average stomach can meddle with and be safe that abominable apparatus oallel a stomach a mans heart it has often been said has to be reached through his stomach and a mans inoelleotual power as well as his physical wellbeing if not also to a great extent his moral and spiritual prosperity and progress are to be determined vory largely in the sanio way the healthy mind and the happy heart are twin dependents upon tho healthy body and tho vigorous digestive apparatus and these again take their character and oondltion very notice ably from the food used and from the way in which it ia booked and served it is quite true that a great many have originally what cwlyleused to speak of aa that abominable apparatus called a sto mach but large numbers have to blame themselves or their oooks for their ohronic dyspepsia and consequent misery and bad temper they have persistently and for years sinned against their stomachs leading them with any quantity of indigestible stuff simply because tney liked it and their sto machs havo byandbye like horses over driven rebelled and kicked out in short one of tho great curses of our race is bad cookery oomblnod with injudicious aoleo tlons of food material dr andrew combe used to bay that if men paid as little at tention to the skins of their horses as they pay to their own they would soon have a poor account of the occupants of their stables ihe same thing may be said of their stomachs tho farmer cannot afford to deal as hardly with the stcmaohs of his horses and cows as he too often does with his own and with those of his hcusebold think of the awful bread which is made to do duty on many a table the miser ably boiled potatoes and the burnt or leathery or sodden pieoes of tough 111 fed beef to say nothing of the pies whioh natur ally lead to nightmare and mere or leaa pro nounced profanenesa many a husband would have been saved from the tavern and many a household broil would never have been known had mother or maid been fairly imltlated into the mysteries of cookery visitors to franoe and especially to parts are specially atruok with the general cheer fulness llghtheartedneas and good humor among the french it la merely because they are naturally thoughtless and lnolined to frivolity i not axjluslvely or even ohlefly it is because almost universally a very fair knowledge of cookery is psaaesaed whioh rises wuu many to the dignity of a fine art indigestion with all it horrors it is said is scaroely known and that because toothsome thoroughlycooked dishes are e reduced from less than half what english ousewives and kitohen maids worse than throw away in the concoction of that by which if the palate is not systematically outraged- the digestive organs are too frequently oppressed and in many instances ultimately rained in these days of intl- leotual pretence and polymathlc smattering irrigation in colorado the subject of improved irrigation in this country is attracting more attention this season than it ha ever reoeived before it is gradually taking rank among thj sciences and yankee ingenuity is doing much toward developing all there is in it it is worthy of note that it is principally the young men and the newcomers who are doing the most toward promulga ting irrigation colorado today has over 6000 miles of irrigating mains and twice as many miles of laterals mr j o henry of denver is the heaviest builder in colorado having oocstruoted half a dczan of the greatest oanals in america his latest enterprise was in bent county where he extended the hastings ditch for a distance of nearly onn huudrml miles he exoavates his cionls very rapidly by the use of steam machines which work somewhat like a river dredger he is now introducing a new plan which he calls eroundslulolng by this he uses hydraulio power in wearing down the deep cuts through whioh his canal is to pass he is building a number of reservoirs one of these near lamar will hold sufficient water to cover 200 000 acres of hitherto arid land another of henrys innovations is a great syphon under the haskell ditoh to convey water therefrom to a side resevoir whioh in turn will supply 60000 aores moro subirrigation is makingconsiderahle head way in colorado this year aa also is that artificially obtained from beneath the surf aoe by means of steam vacuum pumps seepage anpply whioh delves deep down under the beds of dry water courses and there finds a surprising flood of water ia also a practical nyatetn bat lately undertaken a throefoot pipe to denver lrom dry cherry oreek is fed in this way and brings down a vast volume of pure water the government sorveys now being con ducted by major powell preparatory to great reservoirs are working up an impetus for the arid districts senator teller is the father of an immense canal scheme in the arkansas valley the best minds of colo rado are busy devising ways and means for the utilization of water oapital is ooming largely to onr aid and we are marohing on in the direotion of a grander land than moses pointed out to the ohildren of israel american agriculturist an old liquor license the question of selling liquor on sunday is one wbioh the olergy were oalled to adjudi cate upon two hundred years ago as they are today one of the earliest inn keepers in the colony jean bbisdon lost a profitable monopoly for not adhering to the regulations his license required him to establish himself on the great square ot qaebeo close to the church so that the puiahionora might con veniently warm and refresh themselves between the services he was however forbidden to entertain any person during high mass sermon oateohism or vespers some of the early tavernkeepers had a thriving trade and beoame men of wealth and importance in talon regulations they were forbidden to furnish food or drink to any hired laborer not were they allowed to sell to persons residing in the place they were supposed to accommodate travellers and strangers putting up in the cities or towns one montreal innkeeper was fined for permitting the syndio of the town to dine under his root montreal gazstte too much for him a letter just reoeived from london says that the otter day a thief broke into a man sion in belravia early in the morning and found himself in a musio room hearing footsteps approaohing he hid behind a soreen from seven to eight oolook- the eldest daughter had a leteon on the piano from eight to nine oclock the second daughter took a singing lesson from nine to ten oolook the eldest son had a violin lesson from ten to eleven oclock the other son took a lesson on the flute at eleven all the brothers and sisters assembled and studied an earsplitting piece for piano violin flute and voice tue thief staggered out from behind the screen at halfpast eleven and falling at their feet cried out f fr heavens sake have me took to the station but cheese the btaomin band 1 baldness would be a calamity in elbert county on the savannah river lives a negro who goes by the name of sheep jess his hair and wniskers are perfeotly white and almost oover his head and face leaving only small patches of dark skin around his eyes and nose and are a perfeot imitation of sheeps wool his hair or wool grows rapidly and his wife shears him every two weeks thereby realizing enough wool to supply jess his wife and five children with stockings the year round and sells enough socks to supply them with sugar and coffee his wife has nearly enough of the finest part of tho wool saved to make cloth for a suit of olothes for jess next winter he is about 35 years old their mother tongue- she listen to the complaining of the winds he what language do they nse in oomplainlngt she oaeuo a floating question oh herbert said the fondwife ive joat been down town and i saw such a duok of a bonnet i yes i responded herbert languidly yes she said with peculiar emphasis its all i can do to float my business well it will take a dnok to fbat your domestic peace of mind a duck of a bon net merchant traveller f ajjbjasaar- l 4i

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