4 By Braydon Scully Buried Roots What Do Wine Scores Really Mean? You see them everywhere. At the LCBO, in magazines, wrapped around the necks of bo(cid:425)les, or on hanging tags at wineries you visit. Wine scores are almost ubiquitous, but what do they really mean and can you just go by the number? We all know high numbers are be(cid:425)er, your teachers, parents and everyone else has always told you to get be(cid:425)er grades and improve your scores. The answer to this one is complicated. I have used and referenced other reviewers scores in past ar(cid:415)cles for this column, so I am perhaps as guilty as anyone of feeding the beast that the wine ra(cid:415)ng game has become. But first some history. Ra(cid:415)ngs and scores for wine reviewers really took off and came to public prominence when influen(cid:415)al wine reviewer Robert Parker Jr. started using the 100 point scale for his publica(cid:415)on The Wine Advocate in 1978. The scale, which actually only goes from 50 to 100 points, was meant as a tool for consumers to help them determine the quality of a wine based on flavour, colour, aroma, appearance and overall quality level. This 100 point scale is widely used today in similar or slightly altered forms by many publica(cid:415)ons and reviewers around the world. Alterna(cid:415)ve systems are also used and you may see some of these referenced in magazines or wine stores. Gambero Rosso magazine in Italy uses a "Tre Bicchieri" system" awarding between one to three glasses (bicchierri) to wines it reviews. Three Glasses means extraordinary, Two Glasses means very good and One Glass means good. Anything not "good" receives no ra(cid:415)ng. Another system used primarily by UK based writers such as Jancis Robinson MW (Master of Wine) who u(cid:415)lizes a 20 point ra(cid:415)ng system. This system actually only uses scores ranging from 12 to 20. On her website she defines the ra(cid:415)ngs as follows: 20 - Truly excep(cid:415)onal 19 - A humdinger 18 - A cut above superior 17 - Superior 16 - Dis(cid:415)nguished 15 - Average, a perfectly nice drink with no faults but not much excitement 14 - Deadly dull 13 - Borderline faulty or unbalanced 12 - Faulty or unbalanced She also notes that they "are not very comfortable with scoring wines because it is so difficult to encapsulate a wine's quali(cid:415)es in a single score." The South Marysburgh Mirror The most serious issue with these systems in general is two- fold. One, is that the ra(cid:415)ng in and of itself does not really let you know whether you will actually like a wine and, two, that marke(cid:415)ng pressures and compe(cid:415)(cid:415)on among some re- viewers have led to what I will define as ra(cid:415)ng infla(cid:415)on. Let's tackle that second point first. It seems to me - and I have admi(cid:425)edly done no sta(cid:415)s(cid:415)cal study to back this thought up - that scores for wines seem to be increasing all the (cid:415)me. It seems very common now to see ra(cid:415)ngs and scores in the high to very high 90s rou(cid:415)nely. Scores which seemed to only be quoted once or twice a year for a review- er now seem perhaps to get used a lot more. One way to increase the use of your name and perhaps direct traffic back to your website or publica(cid:415)on is to get your score quot- ed on bo(cid:425)les, labels, s(cid:415)ckers and in adver(cid:415)sing of all kinds. One sure way to do this is to rate a wine really high. There is nothing a winery's marke(cid:415)ng department or a stores sales manager likes more than to quote a high score and see more product move out the door. So we see a 98 point score and as consumers we assume that this must be a near perfect or absolutely excep(cid:415)onal wine. Digging a li(cid:425)le deeper reveals that the par(cid:415)cular reviewer quoted adds a "value" compo- nent into the ra(cid:415)ng that increases the score because the wine is less expensive. So the wine which sells for $16.95 at the LCBO gets this ra(cid:415)ng based a lot on price whereas on a purely subjec(cid:415)ve basis it is an 86 point wine from most oth- er reviewers. At the end of the day ra(cid:415)ngs are truly something that can only aid in your selec(cid:415)on of a wine to buy. If you are looking at ra(cid:415)ngs as a buying input you must get to know a par(cid:415)cular reviewer and how they rate wine and most im- portantly how your palate lines up with theirs. Above all it is most important to read the full tas(cid:415)ng note that most re- viewers provide. These details, on flavour, aroma, colour, intensity and so on, truly provide the key details that you need to know about a wine. Whether a wine rates 88 points or 96 points, it really only ma(cid:425)ers if the style of the wine, the produc(cid:415)on of it and how it tastes to you, lines up with your expecta(cid:415)ons. So where does that leave all of us? For this column, I have chosen not to provide numerical ra(cid:415)ngs of my own. There are more than enough ra(cid:415)ngs out there for you to reference from other reviewers. Where I think it appropriate or relevant I may reference scores for some wines in future columns. Generally, if I men(cid:415)on a wine is reasonable "value" (value being highly subjec(cid:415)ve), and that I think you might just enjoy it as well. My goal here is only to encour- age readers to perhaps try something new, to get out and see what the County and other regions of the world have to offer and to in general enjoy wine and food and great com- pany when they can. In Vino Veritas! is because I it, I think like it it Follow me on Instagram and Twi(cid:425)er @threegablespec Follow The South Marysburgh Mirror on Facebook