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ELGG irs Lg TO - geri sry ¥ Stores THE OSHAWA DAILY TIMES, THURSDAY, APRIL 10, 1930 Ready With Latest in Spring Fashions . Fabrics-Desian CORRECT forthe NEW SILHOUETTE " Correct Fabric Designs "FP or The New Silhouette Nineteen-thirty silks and cottons are presenting smart new designs created especially for the longer silhoutte with pattern and spacing arranged in proportion to give the most flattering effect to the 1080 figure, says Gretchen Thomson, Tor afternoon and evening they are printed in flowing patterns and soft tones which the new femininity demands--for daytime they dis Jay smaller patterns usually with Diack or dark backgrounds and bril Hantly colored designs. In both types . striking new offects are achieved by the combination of print with plain color--the dress of print having bands, bows, cuffs and godets of plain, color to match the predominating tone of the print, A whole new group of prints is yeserved for beach costumes--bril- Ylant in color and striking in de- sign. Novelty sports weaves made entirely or partly of silk-are com- ing back into fashion and will be important in the sports mode, while stripes are seen in every manner from the shirtwaist frock to the packet ensemble, with stripes run- ning up or down or diagonally, Some of the most striking effects are accomplished, Even in jersey the stripe is rec ognized, more subtly introduced in self color in diagonal effects that have been the result of the favour accorded the moussa cloth of sim- ilar type, ; The feminine and romantic trend in dress has inspired the revival of embroidered bastiste, This crepe eotton is sponsored in allover eyelet effect of allover floral or many pre- fer the conventional patterns of jeaves and dots while others are gavored in solid but delicately done embroidery, It is identified mot only with the more formal mode but also" in blouses to complete the dressy silk suit, Cotton meshes promise to de- wyelop into an Important cotton fashion and are enjoying populari- ty in both the weave simulating the knitted and the lisle version. Both types are much featured in blouses which in many instances are muuy more feminine by puffed sleeves. The woven mesh has already made a name for itself in tallored suits and is approved in such dark col ors as black and red brown and to some extent in navy, In the tailored suits and sports goats, tweeds win as the leading fabric--heavy weaves combinins multi-colored effects with white are favoured for coats, while sheer, loosely woven tweeds and lacy weaves interpret suits, Covert ap- pears repeatedly in suits and coats while wool crepes in pastel and high shades, heavier than dress crepes, are seen in both dressy suits and coats. Suede-like fabrics and solid color basket weaves are firs in fashion for the more forma! types where fur-trimming Is sanc- tioned, MATCHING BAGS In many of the smart Paris houses, the bags are made of leather, exactly to match the tone of the costume. The newest shape is an oblong affair with rounded corners, IN BLACK VELVET The black velvet dress that is the "style leader of the moment is made 'witha long and elaborate skirt and © a comparatively simple hodice, often relieved with a little soft lace about the collar, TRAILING GOWNS GO DANCING Dame Fashion demands the skill. ed tallor this season--the mew moulded to the figure and smartly tallored costumes give no alterna. tive, Suits are the smartest thing ia street clothes and there will be many women indulging themselver in four plece suits--short coats, skirts, tuck-in blouses and top-coats to match, Trains will follow many of the touch-the-toes evening gowns, and the fabrics will be both rich in color and design, Gold and silver will mix itself up In many ways with the pastel and bright evening shades and for the garden party floral chiffons with wide, floppy hats en suite will be smart, Velvet wraps will match the basie color of the afternoon and evening gowns, Large Settings AreNowin Vogue Costume jewelry has a great appeal to the moaern woman, anu among. the very latest is the large ring--~the bigger the stone the bet. ter---but there is a difference be- tween the rings for evening wear and those designed for daytime use, A number of the newest rings show a combination of two or more colors, and the favored versions are sald to be a new rectangular, fair ly flat-top effect, and the huge ca- bochon set in marcagite and some: times with a marcasite decoration across the top, The design of mar. casite may be carried all across the top of the cabochon or confined to one side, and the cabochon is eut in odd many sided effets, Coral and Sapphire Pratically all of the semi-pree- fous stones include carnelian, lapis, chalicedony and chrysoprase featur. ed with marcasite, but at the mom- ent there appears to be a decided teoling for onyx, which is associated with the black and white combina~ tion in costumes, There is also a demand for coral introduced with sapphire or other colors, Prown is to be a leader, and nothing it 1s sald, is expected to replace brown jewellery. The de- mand is met with a series of bead strand jewellery, the glass beads very tiny and done in flacked browns, giving an shaded oftect Multi-strand necklaces are caught with large gold melon shaped beads leaving a loop cascading free, and the same treatment appears in bracelets and earrings. Earrings, incidentally, are sald to be one of the most popular {tems at present, in the high class as well as the less expensive lines, DECORATED HATS Some medium sized hats for fall have slashed brims, bits of lace insetreo in thelr crowns, flowers massed under the uplifted brims and in other ways point to elabor- ate trimmings for hats for formal wear, PINK FOR EVENING Pink 'is one of the most fashion. able colors for evening--not neces- sarily a shell pink, but a deeper tone that is slightly grayed. Coral is much in evidence, And strange as it may seem, the new shades are par- ticularly effective on the red-head. Designed for the discriminating young Miss. A lovely model of soft effects for street wear, SKIRT 1S LONGER FOR ALL EVENTS The consensus of opinion seems to be that three inches below the knee is the answer to whether skirts will be long or short for day wear, Judged from every yardstick other - than the present, three inches below the knee is not a long skirt, When it gets half way to the calf, which it does at several estab lishments, one begins to speculate on its,.goal, For formal afternoon wear, ankle length skirts have been presented, while for evening the long line is. definitely estab lished, Berets made of tweed, velvet, and of braided fabrics are being sent over in large quantities, in such variety that there is really a type for every face, Van Cort. Just uscontinental " " Duke As the photograph here more than hints there is a tense moment White the intrepid Eagle," towed Waco | filer reaps the . N Hug y Ne [i] reward of conquest as he | Jernigan, Jr. Even the polleceman ut the extreme left notices it.--Copyright .1930, Pacitic and Atlantic Photos, Ing. Modes for Children Show Change Toward Simplicity Prench ideas are strongly re flected in the latest fashions for children, Children like a change just as much ag their elders, and this sea- son heralds something novel in the way of material for building up at- tractive coats for little sister to deck herself In and present an ap- pearance both smart and up-to date, Chinchillas, so much in demand of yore now have to step down form the high and might yseat and make way for the suede-finished cloths and novelty basket weavers, Colors Brighter Colors, also registering a change stress bright red as fashionable shade for the small child, and who oan imagine anything more atirae- tive than a fair-headed little girl arrayed in bright red from the tip of her diminutive skirt, and backed by glistening snow on a winter's day, Of course, the litle dark- haired beauties will also play a striking note clad in lke garb, and whether fair or dark the thing Is Madame Fashion says, bright red, Greens, blege and brown are also predicted for the coming sea son and there is a light shade verg- ing on the eggshell which is fast becoming one of the newest chosen shades, London, the Mecca of style, com- bined with simpliicty for the small child, extolls the diminutive swent- er and jersey for litle tots, and Paris, In preseribing purty frocks for the wee lady, decrees much handwork, rather than elaborate and fussy detall , EARLY TRADERS KEEN ON BEAVER AND SEA OTTER Fur Markets Keep Up Their Pace After Many Hun dreds of Years It is difMecult to estimate the countless numbers of pelts which flowed from what is now known as Canada during the three hundred years of commerce in furs, Beaver otter, fox of several varieties, lynx, fisher, mink, marten, badger, rao | coon, muskrat, squirrel, contribut- ed then as now, The sea otter and the beaver are notable examples of changed conditions, The former is now practically extinct while the beaver occupies no longer its tradi. tional prominence, For centuries the beaver was the fit emblem of the fur trade, Leg- ends of Indian tribes give it super human powers; its pelt 'was used a8 A peace token, Large offerings of these as "The Jesuit Relations" attest, alone made possible the building of many early churches, Beaver skins too were the currency of trade and from the records of their barter we may appraise the volume and profits of early trading in furs, Tremendous Trade As early ag 1600 the Tadoussac trade, which consisted chiefly of beaver skins, amount to 40,000 livros profit and 100 canoes laden with these eame yearly to this post, fn 1660 Radisson arrived at Mont real from the west country aecoms panied by 300 Indians and 60. fur laden canoes, In the year 178% the trade of the North West Com pany did not exceed $200,000; hy 1709, or eleven years later, the an- nual tarde amounted to 185,000 pelts with a value of $600,000, Of those 106,000 were beaver, The same number of skins in kind and quality would be worth $2,000,000 at present day prices, Between the years 1860-70 the average amount of beaver brought out was 150,000 aking per year to which must. be added the numbers used by the Indians: which represented an equal number, IPor 'the years 18063 to 1877 the Huddon's Day Company sold in the neighborhood of 5,000,000 skins in the London fur market, an average of 125,000 skins per year, The beaver hat, during the 17th and 18th centuries, was worth 80 to 100 shillings, or from $19 to $24 In Canadian money, and as an article of manufacture had an importance akin to that of the silk hat, its successor, One Hupd- red thousand three hundred and sixty-four heaver skins with a total valuo of $2,202,871, average value $22.85, were produced in Canada, season of 1926-27, The sea often Is the most valu- able of fur bearers and was once plentiful, It was a regal favorite end taken in thousands on the Pacific Coast between 1760 and 1876, Russian and Chinese roy- alty bought it and on the Chinese market the pelt sold at from #1560 to $200, The pelt of a prime ses otter measures six feet in length and Is of rare beauty, While at Nootka Sound, Capt, Cook is sald te have bought 1,600 for six pence u plece, but owing to the reckless killing of these animals they are practically extinct today, Brims, Color Outstanding Millinery has Yefinitely abandoned the discouraging sameness which so long held sway and is going the limit in brims and 'colors, While this is good news insomuch as it per- mits greater individuality and a bet. ter opportunity for choosing hats that are really becoming, it will alsu most likely result in a good many ridiculous spectacles, One thing to be said for the uniform type of small, fitted hat ~ it denied the pos- sibility of letting the imagination lead anyone very far astray in the mattereof taste, Now with the pic turesque new shapes there will pro bably be a good many attempts te look pretty and appealing at the wrong times and places, The thing to do to avoid this is to remember that the large, drooping type of hat with luce on the brim and * flower trimming while flattering and appro- priate, belongs definitely to the gar- den party type of atternoon occasion and the daytime hat will still re. tain the characteristics of the fitted, tailored hat, True, it may have @ brim = it may have length at sides or back ~~ it may have bows or oth- er trimming, but they are all so re- strained ~~ s0 tastefully "wrranged that they obviously fit the occasion Looking ahead toward spring and sumnrer and reviewing the millinery mode as a whole, the impression re- gisters that the two outstanding notes are brims and color, after, of course, admitting that straw is the favourite media ~~ a media which is immediately recognized as having the light quality which puts it in tupe with the gay array of colors endorsed for Spring and with the elaboration of the feminine theme, ide range of Fabrics Fine weaves, dressed to a supple. ness which permits the most intri- cate of brim ilhouettes ~-- rough straws that reflect the practical qual ity of tweeds = fine, lacy and trans- parent cffects for afternoon hats, all catering to shapes which range from the closely-fitting bonnet to the pic- turesque Gainsborough type. Add to these the continued favor of felt and the new use of sports fabrics such as linen and shantung to be a pleasant one to wear and to view. Pavamalaque = the new shiny straw that looks like lacquer is the "style leader" of the season for street wear and it does seem to give just the right "tone" to tailored suit or ensemble, It is deen in black, navy and brown, in small turban or cloche shapes, as naturally a listle of this brilliant straw goes a long way, The brim treatments generally ems ploy bakou and novelty straws, many of them having lace or ribbon-like weaves, The Silhouette One of the interesting notes is the revival of the Gainsborough silhou- ette = not quite so wide as in for- mer years, but adapting the slanting, picturesque and flattering line =and as it is worn with the organdies and flowered chiffons of afternoon, fem fine prettiness reaches its height. The cloche of past year is far re- moved from the cloche of today, There is a hitle "kick-up" over one eve that shortens the line and gives the effect of an off-the-face shape although there is still the protection of the brim, The silhouette that Alphonsine is stressing for spring, « silhouette which is definitely dressy in charac ter, is important. This has the short. er front and back brim and the long side backs, one longer than the oth er with "the opposite cycling raised just a bit to give the slanted lapk to the front Bows for Hats "More bpws for. hats" follow turally the popularity of new themes for dresses, With the soft lines that are being introduced in mdnery for spring it is not surpris- ing that the sorter and more femin- ine effects should appear for trim mings, The &fternoon frock as it adopts the lengthened, rippled and formal aspect of the evening siq.ou. ette, induces consideration of more picturesque effects in millinery, Some of the bows wre made of wide soft satin ribbon, tied on the brim, or under it when the shape inclines to the sweep of the Gainsborough, Vetvet ribbon of medium width is also employed for bow trims and favor is expected for velvet as the importance of straws will invite vel. vet ribbons to play their part in handings as well as bows, Bow trim. mings are usually flat; whether they have the draped flatness of the type of ribbon used for dress hats or the plain flat tailored type of the gros. grain ribbon, they are very much in the mode, Concerning color in Spring na bow milli nery it seems that navy blue wil have a vogne They apcak of the "brighter" navy as well as linen blue, On this latter eolor everyon: seems agreed, and if this is 10 be so, there io little doubt but that nays will be good, for the two colors sec to gu hand in hand, M one is good it will undoubtedly make the suceess of the other as well, Rosy reds and yellow reds are seen in the new models and there are quantities of light and bright greens, While some of the dark greens are used, it is true that 'there are many more of the light and bright colors, possibly because they are newer for the Spring, Black is just as Important as ever, and one sees much of the touch of bright colors on the black hats, Peach beige tones are being used as well as the natural color, nd the vel low family for resort Year, THE MOLDED HIPLINK Emphasis Is lald on the molded bipline, which is achieved through fitted hipbands that tie in a bow at the front or button ut one side, In Oresses having long bodices, this line Is attained by shirring at the pide seams, or by Inverted tuck placed horizontally at the centre front, Bkirts maintain an even hemline, with curculad fulness or pleats nt the front, ne frock has loose pleated panels with pointed edges over a straight-line under body, Satin and Canton crepe are, ad vocated for cardigan sults of a dressy variety having overblouses with long sleeves, A black satin costume has a blouse of blond: satin with a large shaw! collar, in to which lace is inset in design TRAILING SKIRTS Evening gowns make much the all-round floor length, in sheer materials that suggest shorter lines by having the slips a few inches below the knee. The other favor- {te this season promises to be the skirt that is some distance from the floor in front but trails percep tibly in the back, sometimes hav ing six Inches for a traln GAY HANDKERCHIEKL The white handkerchief overlaid in vivid color 18 new and decora tive for coat pockets this fall, There are many capucine shades, suggesting that summer's prefer. once carries weight with autumn: of FUR TRIM Many three-quarters coat suits for autumn have elaborate fur trim, A brown and beige tweed has a whole yoke, front pane! and coat edging in lapin dyed the beige tone, we TB MEN'S SUITS Extra Trousers $24.50 All the Newest Shades. Also a Plain Blue Serge! SEE THEM! UP FOR Extra Special! Men's BROADCLOTH SHIRTS | - White, Blue and Fancy $1.29 4 for $8.00 Separate or Collar Attached Phone 1870 AN Men's I. EASTER TOPCOATS All the Latest Models and Wanted Colors. Moderately Priced. 51650052950 Men's & Young Men's NINGS 14 King West SUITS Worsted and Fey Tweeds in the Newest Shades. Priced to Suit Your Pocketbook. $1945 n $3750 | MANY WITH EXTRA TROUSERS Men's Hats Latest styles and colors. $3.95 to $8.00