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| { -- vs a -------------- el A A AE OS? or" [ASST OY EN ah-- a ---- Newest Ens ' There is a Suit for Every Hour of the Busiest Day aocket Sult Sa Afternoon Brings Formal Ensemble That Is A Direct site Of The Town Suit Of Oppouiss Dressmaker Lines Pp ' Cer Fs / 4 The Golfer, hr Liking. ' fl are again In A sult-able Wess of mind to And many | Frou, Uses for the sult, as such, Working with a frook and a cont Al A basis we oreate an ensemble, but we hava given this word, ene semble, & meaning much broader designed for early evening weave than It originally possessed, apply- in it to the completed costume, whieh means that shoes, handwear, loves and all the usual 0OMUME (he concert stalls ave part of it, The many displays of coats, And the impor tance attached fo them, prove that they are looked upon as back: #ioinds afninst whieh we MAY | faghion has reached Wild varying costume effects, And when we take Into eensideration the faet that there is a radical ehangs In the slihouette, that mas tor ahd colors have changed with the new season, we are consels ous of the problem that clothes oF (jis ery low decolletage whieh are, any sorl, and the sult especially, present, Variety Is apparent, Many Purposes==Many Types ' Wvery aotivity ealls for a differ ont type of costume, and the sult that Is sorreat on the links will net shop somfortably, ner will the eos tame (hat lunohes sucessfully be in the proper mood for tea, It has not hebn long alnee the outfit that was quite In the mede for country Wear Was equally In tha mode for town, But this Is no longer true, The rather enajinl alg of the sports oF country suit' ia wholly laeking In street and tallored things, Nor Is the use of the word tall ored advisable, for we have long associated a ceriain mannish ale with the sult of this name, In is planes we have sofiensd detalles that are known as dressmaker touches, all In keeping with the new grace and softness that Is the very eas senee of the new mode, No small A thing as & belt on A sweater Is Indleative of the trend And proves the pewer of the feminine infuse enee upon fashion and every part thereof The True Nports' Bult It would he for golf, perhaps, and logleally of tweed, althoush there are other sports woolens, It would possess comfort and the skirt would be of the length that the wearer found most comfortable, the Jacket showing little tendency to really "fA sweater Ia the logleal complement to sueh a sult, although the blouse, either pulley over or tuok=in type Is not Ineons slatent, The sports sult Is the most conservative member of its family, Bulta of the finer Wools are Ap: proved for town wear, and little detalles serve to ralse them above the roughsand ready models de signed for country wear, The coats are longer, And the threesquarters or sevenselghths eoat will be the correct one, Hlouses of satin, white a leader, give a luxury toueh, and there are frills and Jabota and many other little detalls to draw _--.) is now focused on - Lace clocks and drops Fall Weather, weed To Her Out The them more closely Inte the feminine Phe very next step Is on to formality, The Bo:Oallod Afternoon ¥rook Birange though It may seem, many of the afternoon models ard [or the restaurant, the Informal dinner that Is followed by equally Informal daneing, the theatre or One plays bridge and | has afternoon tea In an ensemble | that in & bit less formal, though anything but Informal, Which leads one to the conclusion that the place where IL splits hairs on the gues: ton of real formality, There Is a reason for this afte ernoon avening types of ensemble, Bvening frocks are very, very for: mal, and they wo In for trains and aa pou will readily ses, quite out of place In a restaurant or the | theatre, He there must needs be three steps==the bridge frook, the tormal afternoon frook, whieh Is really Informal evening attire, and Wltra<formal evening things, What One's snoort wears ls a oriterion | With The Dinner Coat | I 1 the mentlemen In the party wiar dinner vote, then the formal evening ensemble 1s quite eorreot, | It may conalat of a sleeveless rook (At had an attended jacket, or It may be one of the new, smart lon sleaved frooks that cose formality in spite of thelr sleeved Alferents ness, The escort In full dress In "given the courtesy of a formal out t that Ia the utmost In grace of line, beauty of fabrie and color and the new, feminine feeling. Costume sulla, beautifully tall pred employ broadeloth and vel. vet, and are lavishly trimmed with dyed fox, beaver, Iyhx, ecaraeul | usand or soma nable fur legance is the keynote, and all of the Intrieagien of the mode are ap. plied to the frocks, the skirts and blounes and the coats whieh are part and parcel of the costume Velvet with fox Ia lovely, the blues dyed sling particularly appealing Broadiall eloth 1s approved, all au-- For Afterroon and Evening Wear NI of the most successful fabrie () rasnions of fall ts high-lustre satin, rivaling In Importance the wvelvels and orepes that are squally successfull For many years we have looked upon satin as & between aeason material, and again | there Ia added evidences that (his [iw #0. And IL Is offered for both [duyUme and evening wear, in froeks of great almpliolty and frooks that | Are sxtremely elaborate, as well as the smart ttle Jacket sults of fashion, Probably the most useful Hem in any wardrobe for general pure poses Is the black frock, and on Ita fable 18 satin IL ln assured of suceess, Bul black 1s not always the needed tonle, and so colors, eupecially the green, brown, red and purple ranges, are Important, A onesplece dress for Immediate wear will concede much to (he new allhouette and adapt a lingerie toneh at throat and wrists, a wide Pleated frill, for Instance, matohed | With outs, i When the under-thesooat sult ta made of satin, a very great deal of rellance In placed on the efteots Iveness of the material itaelt, The skirt and jnoket will mateh, but the blouse will be of another material, ft Is amartest that way, Crepe or Georgette are approved, just as| JeAUn 1a the oheles when the sult in of velvet, Bvening makes much [of satin, very adapiable to the olasaio lines of the new streamline (silhouette with ith mel appears a € J A. Ee ¥ EL SS i --.§.,m Imp ga a LS SANE SS ---- NS ELS x Ea mble is Both Feminine and Dignified | Fabrics and Colors Meet the Needs Old Weaves Are Given Are Newly HH new siihouette demands Toor things of materials, and weavers have hastened to somply with these demands, In the first place, draperies and the molding 'of the figure and the sweeping grace of long lines make pupploness imperative, © Yollowing this, It Is necessary that the spirit of fashion be carried out In the olor an well as the texture, and that spirit is one of great slegance and sophistioation, The humblest plece of dress goods In the mae terial mode has been, somehow, glorified, and beauty has become an important as praoctioality shall we muy, more important? When a designer has a dream of graceful lings she must have the medium to express it, and only the supple, adaptable length of fabric will do it well, Ydnes have never been so dependent upon materials as they are at this moment, Our 014 Friend Milk The new silks are Interesting for many reasons, They copy from the wools In the matter of pat. terns and, of course, colors, One Whop, displaying some unusual pats terns, features them as tweed pats terned silks, while another shop,' solocting the same type, fealures them as silk (weeds, but this faot remalns==they have gone to wools for thelr designs, Plain = hued orepes, especially the Cantons, are muoh In faver, and the fallles and other dull surfaces, Attention must be given the grepe weaves, whether they be silk or wool, for they are very popular, While the Cantons are favored for any time of day or evening, there aré orepes made of synthetic yarns that are lovely for certain purposes, and worsted crepes are Approved, In the cotton group the rayon crepes are favored, and Advance | notices promise even greater stress on this type of surface when spring materials are offered for approval, The New Wools Effective | One thinks first of tweed, when wool 1s mentioned, for It dominates all other materials In the group, | (Left) Tweed ensemble for the links, (Center) Lame and sable ensemble for formal evening, (Right) Formal afternoon ensemble kof black broadcloth and satin, | ---------- "To Fur-Nish OTHING In overlooked In the Business of attaining variety, | diffepentness and more than a toush of the old-fashioned apirit, | We ne longer look upon fur as &| bulky material, of the finer fabrics, quite as usable an It is luxurious and lovely, And pines beauty and luxury are tvesirs able, It eannot he omitted from the soheme of things, Yateawe are startled at Ita many possibilities, though we accept them with des Hghted appreciation There are fur coats, of course, and furslined counts, and to the aredit of both be It sald that they show the utmost consideration for the newest silhouette, allm and graceful as It In, There are more trimming furs used on coats than there have ever been, and it In a real tribute to the art of the furs rier that they are worked like oloth, even the fur«ined coat give ing ne hint of the type of lining unt ty coat eel has been une fastened, ; They are using Yur with felt for hats, and It ta quite smart to have a hat trimmed with the same fue that 1a Uusbd on the coat, and many Mines the Inpeioate use of fur on the sleeves of the coat In exactly repeated In the hat trimming, Cuffs are huge, and one Almost wonders which dominates In the sleeve, Collars are huge, alue, or they ave made eravat fashion, for fue will, tie quite as well an silk, when the eorreat choles of the fur to be ted in made, . Fur ia belong used on frooks and takes the plage of lingerie touches, dolag quite everything that cloth will do In thia reapect, There may Be & buckle, or A belt and buckle ~The New Hosiery Shades | ant. ART winter's stookings, {f there fo a thread left of them, will not dot They are not the mart color that new fashions des MARA, nor are thelr heels rights there just len't anything Maht abent them a. all. And IE you are thinks ing ~that with longer akira the Stoohings you Wear are net aa ims partant, you are following the | Wrong trend of thought, for they TAT Wore important, Attention in now fooused on the ankles and the nea and textures of the hese, Colors are darker and more eons Sservative, Elresa ia put on the Rray-bhrown eolor ig and in either the grays or the hrowns there ta a correct ehotee for praes | tionally every daytime ahade, With the smarter browns and blues, and A hiack, one wears the darker And sable browns or a sont [qt mauve pups. There a a dit {fore of yellow in the Dales and Browns that are worn with the wohor hrowne=you will mateh your gloves, of course, a a a a i Of course fhe black handbag, matohed by blask gloves in cons sidered ultra smart, but in this CARe Wwe have the exception that Proves the dale, Mockings in the dark gunmetal tones are worn with sueh an ensemble, although they sometimes make the ocondeas Sion of narrow black heels, Bear In mind that heels are narrow, rather than Broad, and that there | In a decided return to the delloate | French olook that Is always mary, | and to fine embroidered olooks, | Bvening brings out delicate hues! of mauve or shel tones, and some | of the very expensive stockings RAVE mee work for adornment, Bporta holsery keeps to liale, #0 far, and there are sheer, lay ef! feotn, and mottled effects, using! mere than one chlor, Tweed pats terned lise hose, pather heavier, MATE, and the Sime between Wool sooks and silk and wool wih | be in vogue tater L New Interest of tur, and there are hows and | knots of soft fur placed at accent points on the frock Yur appears not only on street and afternoon 1 poanon, Clothes are more graces | ful, gracious and becoming than | they have been in years, oven | | The Modern 'Romantic' Silhouette | T In smart to bas quaint, this | diferentness toushes aooessories as | well aa clothes In a display dedicated romantiec modern there were Inters frooks but ta being applied to Ove] oo uen many feel that the higher | esting lines reminiscent of 'ether but consider 1t one PHInKE gowns, though not In as Krol | woisiine and longer skirt in v a proportion The small mult ia In again==a round, barrel-like af aly, DID YOU KNOWes THAT many of the new Coats have muffs, so that thesoont-with asmuft is considered an Integral fashion? Vislon a oeat of bottle preen - hroadoloth, eoliared wand outed with lapin fur in a soft beige hue, and a tiny round mult of the pint It Ie both smart and lovely THAT the newest model In the blouse, Itself a newly returned favorite of fashion, fa a tunio affalr with & smartly flared peplum?® Tt comes In white satin, and this Is the one Important blouse fabrle, just now. and possesses all the subtlety of the new silhouette, RE A NE W KIND ot | \ hat for them They are sow afrald of the word 'princesses, applied to the silhouette, though they need not &o, for it In a mods | ernised, oleverly adapted theme, rather than an aoourate revival of | the old idea, This Is a new-fashs | foffed, old-fashioned mode, | If you are trying to be old-fashs foned, however, and are giving no | thought 0 new dens, they you are | bound te be a fallure and appear what you are trying to bel You must add the dash of romance to your olothea that stamps them as of the 1980 fashions, which are quite as different from anything else that there has ever heen as Victorian modes " were different from those of the World War, The a -------- RR OF SWEATER a a Two sweaters of the new fine spun rabbit hair, They are made of lapin angora, which means absolutely nothing, Wh the beauty of the garments themselves ia 10 the uninitiated, alt sure to mean mueh, ui they are | avery perieds, A frock with the stthous ette of the nineties, its material the newly amart black net, Another was patterned after the Jullet gown, both barely clearing the oor, long all the way rouhd A sult showed the faring jacket effect of the fashions of 1014, and there were models in the postillon sll | houette, very elegant indeed, There were slthousttes that re minded of the Civil War era, and with them, inoldentally, were worn rather short black gloves, reminds tng, again, of the 18680 belle, And single model showed the longer skirt, sults and tallored dresses appreciably lower and eves ning attire to the ground, Tealns on some of the frocks, too! o Mats are worn oft the forehead, a mediaeval note, and one (A the colleotion, of velvet, was mediaeval in ta lines, being oap type, while a meoond dated back to the Nas poleonio era=-its material broads eloth and its trimming stitohery and three orystal buttons, Bags and shoes are destgned to Ait pers feotly Into the ploture, a favorite model in the latter group the hlack suede pap trimmed with selfemas terial bows, the Heels frivelously hgh Hlnok suede gloves go along with black pumps and handbags, and darling little pound muffs matoh the fur on your coat or the collar of the fur coat, or the coat itself, All these come to us in the 1980 mode, thelr onohet of smartness modern, though thelr inapiration was another day and awe, soft and warm, and oan be pulled | through A ving #0 fine ave they, and there is no doubt whatever that, they are ariastoorats of the sweater WIth & separate skirt, ble that has ita many weep. mode, They are parfect for wear | for golf or tennis, or with the fine tweed ensems Lapin angora in a specially prepared yarn that ia spun from rabbit! hale, the animals ralsed In France and Belgium, They are specially | bred and ratsed In a sheltered atmosphere, ao that thelr hair la very! summer ARA winter "1a admirably | Ane, and it is then pecially treated to retain ita flevciness, Sweaters served with hin type of hostery, | in thin special yarn come in both pullover and cardigan style, and in! the pullovers the neokling varies All of the new vcelora appeal The sardigans wear arystal buttons) The Gown of ce Smart women are wearing It for many occasions == bridge, tea, the Informal dinner and the theatre, #0 It In an alls oooaston froek, Wa find it des veloped in one of the Interests Ing new fishnets that fashion adores, and ita long sleeves proolaim It the type that ia known as the almostsformal gown, It la very long indeed, well to the ankles in front and Just olearing the floor In baok, and 12 1s a thing of diagonal folds and expert drapings. The brown and dahlia shades fre eapecially attractive "in this model, and black, of course, With this madel the moire or satin pump, colored to axqotly mateh the frock, Is correct, and jewelry In a deeper tone, or in contrast 1a approved, The result 1 an exotie effect that 1s subordinated to its near-Tormal uses to the| One realises that many of the] smartest and most fominine fabrion | are maseuline in their inspiration, [ but that is as far as the comparts | son goes, There are some really | beautiful lacy effects In beth | tweeds and the knitted materials that are claiming the attention of the fashlon-wise ! There Are New Weaves As Well. Tex. ture Is Governed By The Silhouette. Richness Of Color Is Apparent In Every Group, Dalhia Shades | of Every Type re New Importance And | { ' } " J ) Important One may mention winter-resort materials, and the ono that has, wo far, bean mont fantured is, again, tweed, They corhe in the pubtel hues, reminding us thet spring shead, though winter is not ym here! Many of these weaves are nubbed, the softer colors pointed with deeper hued in the same tons = rather nies! I'he same 06a 1s applied to tweeds In the deaper » hues, and suits of such materials \ will de very well for wear under J the heavy coat, Fvening Vabrios Ave G We oan revel In the luxury of exotio materials when we reach the evening mode, and the usual vels vets, taffeta, molres and sating will have to look to thelr laurels, this coming measen, It will be ons of great magnificence, and the metal 4 transparent tissue ohiffons, Ihoes And nets, and metal fabrics will bid for attention, The mont important fabrlos for the truly formal gown ure the metals, amon, them the lamés, riah and eolgrfu in brocade patterns, But As Sheer } as Hesue, One can visualige the beauty of | the new silhouette earried out in' such a splendid fabrio But the » lames do not stand alone In the metal class, and' thera are rich, heavy brooades, the metal molires, taffelas shot with gold or silver, ) and any number of novelty mas terials of the same general stteok ) Gold Is preferred to silver, whidh in not strange, for it Is rather more luxurious, and the utmost In luxe bp ) ) ury is In demand, Velvet is als WAYS a premier fabric Colors May Be Individual Yoy need not appear in a oom tume that even faintly resembles that worn by another, for there Ia such variety in fabros, lines and | colors that a distinotive and indi 7 vidual combination may be worked out, If three dominant hues weps to be ohomen, from the many that exist, then black, brown and the ' dahlia range would be the chology The first two are as old as colo but the rich, deep hues of th newest color, not so easy to wea have real possibilities. old « timé They're orm combination of bl skirt and Snoket and white biglise, the lattep quite sure to he satin, Yirown Is #0 Very smart that they do not depart from It In choosing cous tume Jewelry, and the same colop range Is kept In the 'ploces : - ------ A---- - a) N NJ ANN OO ' OOO NN YY A, > LS \ A net frock with the silhouetts of the ineties and a tweed wig we Boudhmga) ; with flaring jacket reminiscent of 1914. A So CHa