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---- F i T - - ripe % 4 3 : Models 1 Coats Are Straight or Flared As Taste and Purpose Decree There Seems To Be An Even Wider Choice 'Than Before, Not Only In Silhouette, But In Details. Since The Coat Must Always Be Associated With The Frock, Fabrics And Colors Vary Widely, And This Garment Become$ A Perfect Background i. " « ® Ze HE urge for a new coat is in- stinctive whenever a new sea- son opens, for it stands in the nature of a fundamental of the wardrobe, since upon it is built the costume. Cool days set us studying the new models, although many of us consider them with an eye to last winter's coat that must be used a second season, and this year we shall ind much to interest and inspire, for designers have been busily at work while our attention has been directed toward our summer outfit. Something of puz- glement will result from our first meeting with the new offerings, for | few women can indulge in a coat of unusual lines or details, and many of the newest mgqdels have incorporated these into the outer garments designed for fall and winter. Fabrics First, Always Advance information tells us that it will be the suede-like materials that will be most used this fall, the weaves that are soft finished, yet have a napped surface. Duvetyne is such a weave, and there will be many models of this delightful stuff that combines so well with fur. There will be broad- cloths, as well, and for sports and utility coats the rougher weaves among which tweed is the leader. Basket weaves will continue their popularity. The new fall silhouette stresses length and the appearance of even greater length, achieved by low- laced flares below a molded line. Y'he princesse idea is sensed In this frend, and skirts are really longer, sven sports and tailored things ' showing that inches have been added to skirt length. In frocks we have the skirt that is pointed in front, a further indication that designers are dropping the hemline, concentrating on ways to greater length. . i) The Wider Skirt There still remain many models that are straight and slender, but | there is an increasing tendency to- ward width of skirt, achieved on any one of several ways, but seem- ingly imperative if skirts are to continue in the way that they have been going. There is no evidence that they will grow narrower, the only trend being toward the lower placement of the inevitable width that is characteristic. Some, how- ever, feature a flare that starts high on the skirt. Sometimes there is a flare cut into the skirt. again there is a flounce applied to it, even round- ing up in front to make an un- even hemline. Godets are set in at various places to achieve width, sometimes beginning at the arm hole, making the back a V-shaped affalr and the front the same. Then there are seamings that per- mit fullness to be worked into the skirt, while flares are used in back only, or in front, leaving the back perfectly flat. Details Of Line Abound Certain details effect the sil- houette, whether it be frock or coat, among them the hemline, the neckline, which would mean, in a coat, the collar, the sleeves and the waistline, not to mention godets and flares that effect width. All of these details are found in | the new winter coats, and besides {these oddities that effect line, there are trimming details, more especially the working of: fabric, cutting it and then plecing it to- gether again, Some of the models, dressy ones too;-have deep armholes, and there are raglan shoulders as well, the all-in-one appearance of coat and sleeve a favorite. For the most part. the hemline is even, and it {is to be noted that many of the suit coats are simple, straight of line The coat itself is of black sealskin, the fur cut in diamond shaped pieces, and the skirt of the garment flared. The collar of Mm bisefommaknaomenteis a richusablawailovaluisambinakions, n the New Fall Manner TR All three models feature straight lines, and are desi it nice enough for cither afternoon or morning wear. basket weave fabric with beaver fur. ned for early fall wear. : util he second features the silhouette with a waistline, The first is dubbed a utility coat, but its fabric makes | and the third collars a and practically unadorned. rrob-| Did You Know -- ably the most noticeable details are those of collar and sleeves, for there are practically no tallored sleeves in any but the simplest of coats. The Broadened Sleeve There seems to be a predilection for the sleeve that is broader be- low the elbow than above. Some- times breadth is acquired by the cut of the fabric itself, but fur is used to create the effect, and in not one, but many ways. Some- times it is a huge, flaring cuff, again it is strips of fur applied to create the desired effect. Belled sleeves are shown and there is a sleeve not unlike the Bishop model that was, at one time, so very popular on frocks. Collars are huge, and when they are not shawl affairs, they are straight, almost military in effect, rising from the shoulders and not from the usual neckline. Deep revers and scarfs are items in this mode, and they effect the silhouette most decidedly. Short-haired furs are most used, for they work more like cloth, and this means that caracul, beaver, broadtail and astrakhan are much in demand. Line is absorbed in the most in- tricate details. HAT they are now featuring Con clotifes for the woman who travels by airplane? One of the outfits shown at a recemt display was made up of a three- piece, blue and white knit tweed suit, worn with a red fox fur, & hat to match the latter, and tan handbag, gloves and shoes. THAT correct bathing acces- sorles are an important part of the costume detail mode, and there 'are unusual things to be had? Among them is a new beach bag that is shaped like a handbag, only larger, of course, and it is made of rubber-lined silk moire in striking colors. THAT quite the newest and most summery bag imaginable, planned for the evening frock of chiffon, is made of the frock material? When the chiffon is a printed affair, the idea is specially good, and these little bags--envelope style, have additional interest in stitched lines. THAT a new bathing cap of rub- berized crepe or satin has made Its appearance, and it takes on many of the niceties of the hat? It has a crown that is fitted to the head by means of tucks, and while it is brimless in front, the back is long and pleated, fisherman style. Your Week-End Suitcase I you are addicted to the week- end habit, or travel continuously from one place to another, then you are depending upon a suit- case for your wardrobe, supple- mented, if you like, by an over- night case. Perhaps you find it a problem to take everything you need, and make it conform to the space at your disposal. It is quite possible to do this, and in variety, if the problem is considered care- fully, and choices made with dis- cretion. The case will be wardrobe style, and it will have hangers for the frocks, and deep pockets for other things. We will presuppose the need of sports togs, as well as the travel outfit, afternoon and eve- ning things, and all the appurten- ances thereto. ¥or the trip there is nothing more suitable than a tweed ensemble and it is not a half bad idea to have the coat a long one, then it will fit into the picture as a utility coat, especially Jt waterproofed. Sports needs can be taken care of with a tennis frock, of washable silk, linen or crepe. There may be a jacket for this frock, and flannel Appealing New Fur HIS is the time to study the fur situation, in spite. of the fact that we shall not really need our fur coats for some tine to come. But experience has taught us that summer is the lazy time of the year, so far as fur sales are concerned, and furriers, desiring to keep their men em- ployed, will make alterations or remodel at a substantial reduction in price. And all of the fur shops make special prices on their mer- chandise, inviting trade. But these opportunities would be valueless to the purchaser were it not that the fur mode for the coming winter is already definitely settled, and the silhouette, the details, and the furs themselves have been decided upon. As in all modes there will be additions to the fashions that make it, but it is quite possible to purchase a new garment or to have the old one remodeled and feel that the result will be satisfactory when the fur season opens. : There is an undeniable tren toward the finer furs and those that handle in 'the same manner as cloth. Pelts are quite as supple as wocl, these days, and all the fine details that dignify the cloth coat can be carried out in the chosen fur. The short-haired skins, as caracul and broadtail, will be un- usually smart, and black and brown' will be the preferred colors. There is every indication of the popular- ity of brown as an accessory color. -Soncernina sports furs tells us of the general use of lapin and kidskin, but that does not mean that the older friends will not be featured, as beaver, muskrat, raccoon, and the usual spurdy pelts. If the short. haired, curly furs are to lead in the dress mode, then they will be just that, leaders, and following them will come the familiar Hud- son seal, and when one's pocket- book permits, mink, sable and the lovely Persian lamb. i Practically everyone has a pre- dilection. for some particular fur, but a word concerning practicality cannot come amiss.. Remember-- the short-haired, soft furs do not give real wear. Moleskin and squirrel, lovely to feel and delight. ful to wear, are fragile furs, and therefore, costly. Mink, expensive at the outset, can-hardly wear out, and becomes, therefore, an inex. pensive fur--a fur is costly or in- expensive according to its wearing quality. For general use the old favorite; Hudson seal, which 1s, as you know, muskrat that ' has been plucked and dyed, is an excellent choice. It is not a practical sports fur, but with care it will give you good service for dress and semi- dress use. And black is always a good color choice, for it goes well with any and every color that can be conceived, thus making a coat of black seal a utility garment so far as one's frocks and hats are Models Natural muskrat is an excellent sports fur, and if you get the rich skins, and they are properly worked, they can be very beautiful. Never make the mistake of driving a car in a soft-surfaced fur, for it will rip with every attempt you make to shift gears or use your emergency. Consult a reputable furrier, in making your choice, exactly 'as you would consult a reputable physician, for mistakes are costly, and a handsome fur coat is a priceless possession. The soft, fine furs are worked into garments that show flares and many - intricate treatments, but garments of this type are sea- sonal, that is, they are quite likely to bear the date of the 1929-30 season in their lines. The uneven hemline is being shown in the costly fur wraps for evening sear, but that is a detail that can be eliminated, another season, by the simple expedient of cutting off the dip! Unless it will disarrange the line of the coat! Applied flares and peplums are featured, the flare a feature of the short coat. Collars and cuffs are varied,' the former varying from the scarf and cape arrangement to an exaggerated high collar that is very like the military model. Dressinaker details continue to be a part of fashion, and cuffs repeat this idea, every sleeve having some unusual wrist arrangement. Fox, sable and baum marten are fav. orites for trimming purposes, both on cloth and fur. is an excellent choice, for It is the garment that makes the : tennis frock {into a golfing costume. Bright colors are smart in these jackets, especially when the choice of a dress is white. The afternoon of bridge, or the tea, or the early, informal dinner will make a frock of printed chii- fon necessary. It will have long sleeves and the new, fitted hipline with a dipping hemline, and it will be in the new, lovely colors that are so effective. The evening dress may be a plain chiffon, or for con- trast, a crepe, cut simply, even suggesting fine talloring, and adopting a color, as eggshell, maize, chartreuse, or it may be white. You can go abroad in a suitcase, it you choose wisely, and you can be decidedly chic, even with this limited wardrobe. For the journey itself there may be a cardigan suit of flannel, supplemented by a tweed coat, and to the usual travel shoes you will add, of course, footwear that can be worn on deck. - There may be an additional skirt, blouse and sweater, for general travel and that will roll and pack neatly. For general purposes there may be a lace ensemble--lace packs so beautifully, and is not only formal enough for evening, but if the frock is sleeveless and there is a jacket, it will meet formal afternoon needs as well. Perhaps an evening wrap of transparent velvet will be found useful, although the room it would take were better d details. : The Hat of the Week It is a saucy "Basque beret," and you will see it on nine out of ten of the smartest heads, this summer. Its pur- poses are purely sports, and it has smartness, youthfulness and more than a touch of sauciness. It isn't a com- plicated affair, but it possesses the feeling that one always longs for in a hat--it belongs to its purpose, and it is a pure type. It is correct for tennis, for golf, for boating, flying or motoring, and it is equally correct on shipboard or on the beach. One of its chief charms is the fact that it stays on the head, no matter what the wind or weather, ffiuch in the fashion of the pert white hat of our sallormen. The color range is practically endless, ranging from: the more ordi nary and neutpal.shades, as brown, navy, sand and gray, to the livelier, more unusual tones of rust, orange, powder or baby blue, wine, reseda and orchid. boat needs, and there will be hats |, evoted to other Are Featured The Ensemble Continues Its B Elaborate Way to Smartness There Seems To Be A Continuation Of The 'Shorter Coat, Although There Will Be, Of Course, Fewer Jackets In The Winter Mode. When There Is A Skirt, It Matches The Coat, And It Is Either Strai ght Of Line Or Flared A Bit HEN we consider the en-| semble we are taking stock of both the frock and coat mpde, for many of 'us as-| semble our costumes from two de- | | partments, although the 'completed | [ensemble is to be had. If a coat 1s imperative, early in the season, it will be bought with a thought | of frocks of the future that will | be worn under it, and if it Is a completed ensemble that is. to be chosen, the coat will still be of] paramount importance, for it will be worn with other dresses in ex- actly the same way that the sep- | arate coat is worn. Therefore we | take interest in many things, ma-| |-terials, colors, the silhouette, de- | talls of treatment and design, | even the new furs that are so im- | portant and so luxurious. We are, {at the moment, at the inception | of a mode, and much will be add- | ed, even much taken away, before it stands a completed thing. Fabric Fundamentals | Wools and silks and crepes are the basis of the ensemble, and if it bn a sports outfit then the] | tweeds, dlagonals, jerseys and | basket weaves will be first choice. One sometimes suspects that the basket weaves are gaining a bit on tweed, the léader for so long. | In dress 'woolens we bave the | suede-finishes, duvetyne and broad- | eloth, and the velvets, and then there are the sheer wools for frocks and the range of silks and crepes, both printed and plain. | Color is important, not so much {that we choose the smartest of the season's preferences, but' that our choice be one that will com- bine with other colors, very neces- sary in the coat. Brown, green and blue are all to be favorites, apparently, and one can build a wardrobe color scheme around either one of the three, or black may be the preference, for it will combine successfully with light or dark, gay or sober, elaborate or simple color schemes. Types For Fall It is a bit early to think of wih- ter, and the models offered are rather in the spirit of fall, but they foretell winter fashions in°* every detail. The sports or tailored sult, of either 'the rough or smooth sports wools, will be smartest with a three-quarter length coat. In this we see the influence of the Jacket--practically all of the suit coats are slightly above the hem. Another type features the princess silhouette or the one with godets or a 'flared effect. Coats in this type of ensemble are not wide- ly fared, but subtly, and both of these types, as well as the third, feature the skirt and blouse. Jackets are typical of the third, and are, many of them, dress af- fairs, hip-length and trimmed with fur. Collars on the real suit coat are not as elaborate as those on the separate coat, being smaller and made closely about the neck. Combinations Of Fabrics The cloth coat and silk frock is featured, but there is rather less emphasis placed on the dress than on the skirt and coat, although this may be only a fall fancy. However, there is no doubt that the jacket is an influence to be considered, and one of the moet attractive offerings in the new mode is a sult made up of a cloth skirt, a short fur jacket, lined with the skirt material and a blouse, sweater style, that is banded with the same fabric. The pullover blouse of wool is a featured garment, although there are many tuck-ins, practically all of the suit skirts being banded. Coats of wool, straight of line, are combined with the one-piece frock of sheer wool, but the very newest idea is the skirt-coat-pullover com- bination. It will be seen that when wool is the material, the skirt can- not be elaborate, but must be only slightly flared. Many times its lines are simple and straight. |] i Ja \ - For the Week-Lnder a htted suitcase anu au uve iugud Is quite enough in the way of luggage. A sport frock of silk in pastel blue with jacket of bright blue flannel | Printed chiffon tea frock and an evening frock tailored of line and in the new eggshell crepe, make an efficient threesome for the weeks for tennis or golf, a long sleeved FJ