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SOU Gr Buroara P1rrvsLo " / One Catches the Atmosphere of Another Clime) Than Ours -- The Resort Wardrobe Suggests the Spring to Come. T is the time of migration, for those who may, and the time of anticipation, for those who may not, which makes the interest in the new modes that are being shown unanimous. For those who will go have actual needs to fill, and those who stay are visioning the spring that is bound to come, a spring that will witness the sur- vival of the fittest, so far as the new offerings are concerned. In many of the smart shops there are southland departments, and in them one finds the very | spirit of the mode that has come to be known as Palm Beach. Ma- terlals, colors and the varied use|, 4 1 4c and a marvel of dainti-| of both have little to do with winter, and we read in and between the lines of the changes that are sure to take place. In a way we may consider the showings a bid for approval, or, better, for selec- tion, on the part of the designers. For it is the old, old story of the makers that purpose, and the wear- ers that dispose, of the new themes that have been evolved. Many of the really smart things that are now being featured will have lived their brief life, and passed into the limbo of forgotten things when spring arrives, and others will have been born to take their places. But whatever the future may hold, the present is interesting. Sports Themes Predominate of-door life, although the formal note is sounded in many of the models that have, until recently, been strictly in the sports category. We are finding that even the cot- ton materials, formerly associated with economy and simplicity, have become decidedly luxurious, and a casual glance at any display is sure to bring any number of surprises, most of them pleasant. A very great deal of attention is paid to wool fabrics, especially the sheer wools that resemble silk or crepe unless closely examined. Some of the newest frocks are made of this sheer wool and carried out in the vivid colors that are not only correct for resort wear, but fit so beautifully into the winter ward- robe. Bright colors are approved for wear under fur coats or coats in a neutral tone. Marked attention is paid the ensemble, whether it be sports semi-sports, formal afternoon or evening apparel. One finds this theme a dominant one, whether it be lingerie, beach apparel, or a costume that is being considered. And it is everywhere apparent that the jacket suit is the one that will be smartest, some version of it found correct for every occasion, ! { | Resort life ie, in the main, out- | will place added stress upon the costume detall. They seem to be stressing white | ---~dead white, for preference. Crepe i de chine, the shirting silks, jerse flannel and Shantung silk are noted, | the latter a vogue In European | winter resorts, and so assured a | vogue here. It is smart to sound | a note of brilliant color with these | white frocks, and this is sometimes done with a wool jersey cardigan, | or a reefer jack of knitted cheviot, but 'always it is vivid in tone. | Frocks Come Over From France | The little frock that is entirely | | ness, is quite sure to wear a "Made | in France" tag at neckline or waistline. Ranged along side the frock in bright wool is a frock in shirting material, and another in checked "tle silk." Then there are | many odd little models in novelty | cottons and silks, all going to make | up the variety that is becoming, each season, more imperative, If one were to attempt a facetious reference to the new mode, she would refer to the coat mode, and state fashion's preference for the! "coat of tan," nor would she mean a cloth coat, either. One cannot but notice the vast number of frocks that are sleeveless and at the same time have a deep decol- letage in back, dubbed the *"sun- tan" lne. And bathing suits con- | tinue what these frocks have be- gun, Silk To Calico And Back Again In the past few seasons we have become familiar with silk, and for | as time cotton was 'practically ex- | cluded from the fabric roster. Now | cotton is back again, and there is glib talk of calico and gingham | and all the old-fashioned weaves. They're making droll little jackets of calico and quilting them, and they're making other jackets of polka-dotted silk and creating an ensemble with minor accessories to match the jacket. Pique 1s popular, and just to! show how very influential a cotton | fabric can become, they're offering velvets in a weave that resembles pique. There are interesting top- THE DAILY TIMES 1HERN coats of white tweed and t topcoats of tweed with fur collars and cuffs. Sweaters and knitted garments vie with each other in the WHAT WILL THE NEW FABRICS BE ? T is quite possible to answer this - dertinent question with the | iingle word--" Everything," for we are assured wools, silks, cot- tons and rayons in old and new here are a matter of fact both plain and printed silks are now classics, and |the same is true of patterns, for {large figures seem to belong to | certain weaves and the smaller de- | signs to others. Silks and crepes incline to small | patterns and chiffons incline to large, sprawly ones. There is bound to be a reflection of the modernistic note in dress designs, vividness of their colorings and the [80d tle silk designs are offered. {unique designs that pattern them. | There is a gradual strengthening Rayon and wool mixtures are of- [Of the modernistic trend which is | tered. singularly effective when it is not overdone. Silks combine with woollens sometimes as a blouse with a jacket suit, which is hardly new, and again with the silk fashioning the skirt and the wool used as a jacket. At times the third plece in this with angora, an unusual, but dis- tinctly effective alliance. You will understand that when | we speak of cotton we do not mean he weaves that are associated with | house dresses and aprons. The silhouette is being featured more cotto: ns of today are mitra fine and more, and it was inevitable products, and guite as costly as that the tuck-in blouse return as a silk, many of them costlier. And part of this theme. It is the same, |s io 10+ strange that they rival combination is a sweater. They make jackets of silk and wear them over a sweater, or over & {wool dress. They make jackets of calico and quilt them. Indeed, expressed in a variety of ways. guises, and certain materials that Exemplifying The Ensemble make use of more than' one kind Novel uses of fabric are moted,|°f thread or yarn. This is the di- pt comes fo suits, | Fect result of the constantly in- Linen crash, for instance, is used |CFeasing demand for novelty ef- for travel purposes, and suits are fects Which are best obtained with made of checked gingham, much |fabric and color in original com- smarter than they sound, these binations. suits! The inevitable tweed suit is| ZLast summer cotton was restored shown in many versions, the her-|t0 Popularity and rayon became, at ringbone weaves specially smart, |last, 8 workable textile; its threads and any offering correct only when |adding luxury to less lovely ma- it shows expert tatloring, perfect terials, some of them far more cost- lines and harmonious colorings. ly than the newly discovered yarn Probably there have mever been [that is designated "man-made." As many types of frocks, and so [This past fall has been notable for many clever jackets and coats, all [the re-introduction of woollen planned for the purpose of assem- weaves, and they are extremely bling ensembles, as there are right | ght of welght and follow silks and now. From them one can choose [cottons in general appearance. the fabric, color and lines that best Probably the newest development suit her fancy and her style, add- |is the combination of cotton with ing notes of smartness, here and | wool, and there is a reason for this, there, through the medium of ac-|as there is for every innovation, if cessories. Far the summer to come | we but look for i. The molded with a difference, this tuck-in af- fair, for since is original Yophe each other for a prominent posi-|they do anything that suits their lines have changed radically. When it was popular before, the normal waistline was vogue, and we cannot say that this is the case today. The lowered line is re- tained, even when the blouse tucks in, and the snug hip is a feature. The blouse lives up to its name, for it blouses above the waistline, and there are, of course, adven- turous souls who attempt, many of them successfully, the old shirt- waist type that ends at the normal waistline. They are combining cotton with wool by means of the two-piece jacket suit, the skirt and jacket of wool and the blouse of cotton or linen--they acclaim pique, as they did last year. Sometimes the printed cottons or linens are used in exactly the same manner as silk, tion in the mode. And so lovely fancy, and we like it! are the new wools that special | mention must be made of the more important ones. Tweed retains its popularity, and there are, of course, new patterns. own with the recognition of Angora is used with wool, and the formality and the feminine wool volles and crepes rise to mew | theme, which 1s made even more heights of loveliness.- Jersey and | important with the arrival of the several novelty fabrics that are |princesse silhouette. And the somewhat similar to them are of- | woman who would be always at fered, and one cannot but notice | her best wears a corset tallored to how great is the stress laid on | her individual requirements and color. It was not so long ago that | does not content herself with one. {we thought of browns and tams|A cheap corset or the continuous jand grays, when we thought of wearing of one garment is false tweed, but now its colorful. | economy from every point of view. The new silks are interesting. | With the lines of the figure jand they include the crepes, satin, stressed, as they are coming to be | moire, taffeta, Georgette and satin, [in the ynew order of things. the | with emphasis on flat crepe. They | foundation line of the corset should {are both plain of color and printed, | be the line of the frock. ORSETRY has come into its HERE is pracucally no limit to the lovely things that were placed on the market to fill the rather large order that Christmas {always gives, And very specially in the costume jewelry depart- | ments was display both instructive |and alluring, the former because 1it proved how very lovely imita- | tions can be, and the latter be- | cause of the variety of themes and types that were considered neces- y to supplement the new mode. If you view the fashion situation | eritically then you are bound to {note the old-fashioned influence A HOLIDAY IN - HERITANCE that is dipping our hems, molding our lines and supplying our trim- mings. And it is not strange to find jewelry that reproduces ideas of the early periods that stressed elaboration and Intricate motifs carried out in the finest products of the metal smiths' art. Even the type of bandeau known, in other days, as the tiara, is favored. Whether your hair be short, or long, or in between, you will wear something on your head of an eve- ning. If you do not care for the elaborate tiara, then you may in- cline to the jeweled pins that are A AA IIA AS AIA ALONG THE E may find it difficult to display a keen interest in bathing apparel when the thermometer registers zero, | but we are none the less curious as [to the prophetic qualities of the displays that feature it. And we are not surprised to find it keeping pace with street and house things, not only in fabric and color, but in details of line and trimming. And we find much that is new and in- triguing. As in general fashions, the en- semble dominates the beach mode, making some sort of a wrap--coat, cape or jacket, imperative, and in- "| sisting that it harmonize with the | bathing suit. This need not mean | that suit and wrap be made of the same fabric, indeed, it is smarter when there is contrast, but there will be some reason for the color, or the material, or the design, of every garment in the group. The real sportswoman is inter- ested in the swimming suit that must, if it is to be comfortable and #0, really serviceable, be fashioned of a wool fabric. This stipulation does not extend to the wrap, how- ever, and as a result there are some interesting combinations of ma- terials apparently unrelated. There is no background that per- mits mere of gorgeousness and vividness that the sky and the that color and design play in the making of the swimming suit that must, of necessity, be brief, since THE COSTUME FOUNDATION the figure where it should be re- women who do mot require some- the swimmer cannot be hampered with yardage. The approved type | 1s made up of shirt and trunks, the | separate trunks worn over the shirt, or the two in one piece. Sometimes the trunks are yoked and pleats set in, giving the fin- ished result the appearance of a | brief pleated skirt. Probably the line that is attract- ing the most attention is the neck- line, which dips very deep in back, making what is known as the eve- ning back line. For come what may, Milady must achieve a coat of sunburn, to which she will, if she is smart, match her hosiery! 'To complete the ensemble, which will be either a two or a three- piece affair, there may be a coat of Terry cloth or of linen, even of cretonne or calico, for it is smart to combine cotton and wool in these suits. And the pattern of the cotton repeats the pattern of the wool, or, when the swimming suit is carried out in a single color, there may be a monogram on suit and coat, or bands of a contrasting color. Beach pajamas have made their appearance, and sometimes there is a use of two colors, sometimes 4 in a neutral so convenient to catch the stray lock, or you may like the jeweled cap that matches the beading of frock or wrap, sometimes of pearls, | again of colored stones, and many times providing the note of color that smartens the entire costume. If you find it becoming, you may wear massive jeweled pieces, with much of metal and more of stones, and it will not matter if the jewels are synthetic, the effect will be quite the same. The "single strand of pearls," of which we have heard so much, has grown to a really intricate affair, consisting of sev- eral strands, or several loops, or | drops, or any other ingenious finish that may be devised. And the back of the mecklace is most im~ portant, In contrast to Halve, 9 gorgeous effects, we have the lovely Dinessh worn on a slender chain, the | salvation of the woman whose neck |is far from slender. Brooches are | very large and ornate, providing the entire trimming for a frook, in many cases. Bracelets, a head- dress, earrings, a necklace, a ring, even jeweled heels and buckles go into the jewelry ensemble, and all are worn together to create a | wholly gorgeous effect. FASHIONABLE BEACHES its color .very bright, and a scarf matches the blouse. Or the more subdued tones may be used, color being introduced by beach sandals and an umbrella, for there seems no end to the costume details that are necessary. There are many different kinds of headwear, among them hats modeled after a sombrero, the jaunty white hat of a "gob," an~ other. that resembles a fisherman's hat. Beach clogs are delightful, and one has opportunity for a very great deal of individuality in the choice, not only of the accessories to her suit, but the beach mat--of jersey or cotton, and pillows, even a coolie coat to match fit. ---- PID YOU ENOW-- THAT accessories stop at noth- ing to introduce novelty? There are some adorable new handbags made of fur, and some are in the envelope type. while others appear as muffs. The latter lifts its flap to disclose the zipper fastening that is insurance against possible loss. THAT fur hats are another ad- dition to the furs of fashion? The fur may be used by itself. or com- bined with another material, as velvet. Fur turbans. matching the fur coat, follow the hair line, and thing more of a garment in the || interest of the figure ftting ail- |} even as a lining for the jacket of some houses making more of one, | seams, cording and boning are used {the first step toward the assem- the smart suit Pinue is aamhinad athers nrefarrving the onnnsita As to sssure a narfact fit and restrain hiing of 2 coarnact costume. houette. Personal fittings and a' Darts, ! good garment should be considered |}