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THE DAILY TIMES -- 4 N rl) = eons, ERTAIN fashions in millinery are authentic, this much we will admit, But they are cor- rect only when they are ap- plied to the purpose for which they were, originally, designed. Per- sonal taste is an element in one's EACH HAT TO OSE ITS Lares Definite Lines Are Drawn Between the Various Types -- It is Unwise To Cross These Lines. requisite qualities of newness, and so we hail them as novelties. The tricorne is such a model, and it has been Introduced for wear with formal furred coats--it is a formal hat, In soleil velours, black or smartly colored, it is far more NN NN come one, for they are always wearing out. Habits, customs, vocations and avocations, not to mention hobbies, often prove suggestive, and from a list inspired by these things one : up-to-the-minute book, or a fine edition of a favorite author is a wise choice. Books suggest book ends or a fine leather cover for book or magazines. Desk sets of real masculine lines, a fine bronze or bit of china--dog. horse, or whatever his preference may be, a flask or a beverage set, if he enter- tains that way! Jewelry of nine quality and in and sophisticated than many of the re- I ny of the re can select satisfactorily. A recent | quiet taste affords variety, decision, and the costume with which the hat is to be worn, but the occasion (itself is, really, the primary reason for Its selection. Subtle in design, the newest hats are also subtly made, Each type has its own material, color, lines and trimming, but we, find all are immensely "attractive, | and sure to do the wearer justice, | if correctly chosen. One character- | istic, luxury, is peculiar to them | all, and sophistication, as well, but | there are general characteristics that must, at first, be taken lmteo consideration. With these it is necessary that we familiarize our- selves before considering our choice, Do not be surprised if the in- formal model seems to possess much of formality, for this is typical. Even the simplest type seems to possess qualities of the dress hat, and this is quite as true of the helmet or turban worn with ; a street ensemble as it is of the glittery cap that tops a formal evening costume. And novelties abound, giving to the woman of fashion the variety that assures her satisfaction. Brims Are Temperamental Nearly all of the brims have a tendency to turn away from the face and droop at the sides and in the back. And it would almost seem that when they may not have their way, they refuse to be, dis- appearing altogether. For tur- bans, cloaches and odd, swathed models are everywhere,- many of them hiding even the smallest wisp of hair from sight, for this is the rule that should be obeyed, if be- | coming to the wearer. Since the brim can take any course that is likely to prove be- coming. there is no excuse for its not framing the face in a perfect manner. They are folded and cut, this way and that. to condeal ir- regularities of profile or make more prominent the features that are notable, and when possible, it is smart to have one side wider than the other. Crowns are, almost without exception, lower than they have been. The swathed hat, done in Arab, Spanish or some other familiar Eastern manner, sounds an exotic note. The subtlety of workman- ship that is everywhere apparent demands a luxurious touch, that it may be in keeping with the sumpt- & subtlety that forbids abruptness, ornaments of fur, ribbon, velvet, lace or braid typical of this newest What Paris Seems To Prefer Loyal though we may be to our we are well aware to popularity, and the very Paris considers the small than any other as- leadership here. Skull approved, sleek litle af- fie close to the head and hair. ury cap, possessing 'at the side, is a fav- , and the hat that focuses its on the brim finds many to smartness. Felt and soleil noteworthy in the smartest and the shades of red, blue, green, beige and black--for black now has shades, are featured. A wide mange of colors is made : tive by fashions insi 8 on the mse of color in the costume. Odd Fashions Have A Place they are not new. these | of the t, thats, in £ashi the abstract. But they have been tant daytime color in Paris and others draw obvious comparisons | white 1 by adopting tulle -or chiffon. long enough to possess | «combination. cently approved types. For wear with the fur-trimmed | / J mmmr== lim RA | \ | who has everyth | limited costume, or as a part of what we know as the fur ensemble--hat and scarf, there is the little fur cap, very light of weight, and excep- tionally smart. It is a snub little thing, of caracul, pony, krimmer, broadtail---you will see the type of the fur from this, or with felt in Perhaps there is an or , One del wearing a soft fluff of feathers over one ear, another an incrusted ribbon bow. C ing tones, is specially favored by the youthful debutante? In approved materials it finds a place in both the sports and the formal modes, and it is prophesied vast popularity in the soon-to-arrive Palm Beach fashions. THAT the very mewest sweaters are knit of bright wool in mod- ernistic designs? The patterns are somewhat startling, for they take to diagonals and lightening zig- zags, and are 'carried out in flery reds and bright blues and greens. France sends us these sweaters. THAT the all-black coat is a favorite daytime fashion? Its fabric is one of the soft, dull- finished wools. of formal mien, and its trimming is fox, skunk or cara- cul, as the case may be. Inci- + DID YOU ENOW--- HAT pred, in gay, rich, vibrat- dentally. black is the most impor New York. NEE TING OUR SL OLVAL XPERTS describe the mode as luxurious, individual, elegant, leaving these three words in one's mind as symbols of the formality that is everywhere ap-| parent.' There has always been 2 measure of formality, even during the World War, after the dinner hour, but afternoon occasions now demand that characteristic, which touches sports and town ensembles with its charm. Certain things are offered to meet certai a NLEDS But velvet is by mo means the only fabric that is popular, indeed, many refuse to even consider it for the very reason that everyone is wearing it! Amn evening frock of net with a hem that dips to one side features massed beadings and a round decolletage, both back and front, and a model of Georgette, beaded all over in a small-figured pattern, has drapes of the plain Georgette, and a wide hem band to Velvet is the outstanding fabric vogue for formal wear. Beginning with the welvet ensemble, and ex- tending to separate frocks, it takes first place among all daytime and evening fashions both here ané abroad. The use of this material permits its combination with other materials, and it makes imperative the most luxurious laces, furs and costume jewelry. The utmost in skill is the designer's contribution to this fashion. There is nothing, of course, that is lovelier than the velvet frock, touched with rare lace, if one likes, or decented with a brilliant orna- ment. Some of the velvet models are studded with rhinestones, and | ture frocks in wide variety, one of | gee. or a pajama suit, for the lady Another Georgette frock has a scalloped hem edging a full flounce set onto a deep yoke, pointed front and back. And it has an Eton jacket, broid d in rhi end peeri beads te match like em- broideries on the skirt. So we are very sure tat there is rr <iminu- tion in the popularity of Lhe bead- ed frock. But frocks of this type are very different from the first beaded models--more subtle, dif- ferent lines, different patterns. Chiffon frocks show much grace and an infinite variety. They are to be had in all colors, and many | are studded with rhinestone and | diamante traceries. There are pic- tulle showing innumerable white, transparent velvet. The bouffant frock of black velvet is smart, its width lined with white or colored satin, its bodice showing a net yoke. Wherever one goes, if it be a formal occasion, she is impressed by the many models in white. There are trailing chiffons--yes, trains are back again, white satin, white velvet, and white furs to top them. They appear at dinner, the theater, the opera. the supper club, and all adhere to the mew theory of splendor that the op formally inaugurated. And little sequinned "cocktail" jackets complete the picture. | and, | gifts For the Man : of the Family HE hardest Christmas gif' to select, with the possible excep- n of the one for a friend ing, is the mascu- | line gift. The offers countless with the suggestions, but other =ex it is extremely and most men have very tastes in ties, hosiery, If they do not, | ided THE F one looks upon Christmas in a spirit that precludes the usual, | oractical gift, then she is faced vith a genuine problem, since | unding the unusoal, yet properly | practical thing is not so easy. Per- | haps some detinition of this word practical will help, for it does not, necessarily, mean something ugly and dull, rather something usable, | for preference, delighttul | Purpose will decide it, in a meas- ure, but not wholly. Only a brief, and very general summary _of possible Christmas 1s possible. The shops are crowded 'witn items large and small, inexpensive and extraordi- narily expensive. It is the half- way gift that is here discussed, and without any attempt to group or classify. From it you may get a hint of differentness in the wvery thing you had planned, or a new idea may be offered, making your girt-buying task a little lighter. There are gift shops, devoted to this purpose alone, and in the de- partment stores there are gift de- partments, with articles arranged, many times, according to price. There you will find oddities that will admirably solve your problem of what to select for the woman who seemingly has everything. Even gifts for the man who has everything--example a lighter that is a combination of cigarette lighter and watch. Really clever. One luxury gift, that could be considered for a group gift, is a folding umbrella that becomes a compact ten and 2 half inch af- fair, and slips into a bag provided for it. Then there is a striking flower holder offered, dead black, hand-forged irom, set into a metal hold 1 hed with Chi red lacquer. This is inexpensive and was found in a shop that special- fized in hand-hooked rugs and clever antigue reproductions. Christmas Suggestions INY wool sweater sets, litle more than cunning balls of fluff, for the baby of the fam- ily. i sweater, cap and mittens, in delicate baby colors, come to us from Bngland for this purpose. And she sends sturdy English golf hose for the boys and girls. A midget umbrella for the travel- er, that folds up into a convenient- ly compact little roll, yet is an deq rain pr . The cover is pure silk and there's a ribbed gilt frame and a tasseled handle, yet it fits unobtrusively into either coat pocket or handoag. A formal hostess gown, a negli- of the family. They are to be had, | ing lame, crepe satin, velvet and brocade, and they are trimmed with luxurious furs, with marabou, or with sheer or metal laces. One of the new ensemble sets of flat furs for either mother or daughter, even grandma'!. It may be a fur beret and a scarf,.or it may be a scarf and muff ensemble, recalling the fashions of long ago. They come in black, white, gray, beige and brown furs. Something for the mneck, since neckwear has returned, for any one of the feminine names on the Christmas list. Panels with cuffs to match. of alencon and wvenise laces, collars of eyelet Georgette with cut-work medallions, also tiers, and topped with a bodice of | all three, in exquisite stuffs includ- | with cuffs, these are typical. 3 trip through the shops, made In the interest of this group of gifts, resulted in the suggestions here appended. there is even more need of that quality in man's attire than in women's. Cuff links, dress studs, watch chains, lodge emblems, a One thinks first of the smoker, | riding crop, a cane--all these are for there are many things possible, | if one has some knowledge of his| are belt buckles, leather pieces, as tastes. ers, pipes and pouches and ash masculine accessories. And there Cigarette cases and light- | billfolds, pass cases and the like, A lamp for his favorite table, a trays, the always welcome can of | humidor for his smoking stand-- fine tobacco or box of cigars, If you | there are clever ostrich covered the same, all gift that spoils Christmas. If he reads, and NUSUA vou know his There are treasures of hand- made Mexican pottery, graceful and alive with color, these pieces beginning at a price as low as the traditional *'two-bits!" It is the product of a people--copies, of course, that talked with pictures and colors rather than their tongues--the ancient Aztec kings. Native artisans reproduce, and gather inspiration for designs of their own, to decorate vases, bowls and all sorts of odd pieces. A clever little gift, or prize for bridge, is a cookie jar--of gaily decorated pottery with wicker handles. Writing paper is an old idea, but the new boxed offerings are anything but old. Modernistic boxes hold treasures of fine paper, the envelopes lined in startling de- signs carried out in strong colers. Not expensive, unless one adds a! personal monogram die in the new modern manner, which is in keep- ing with the paper. There are musical novelties that are unique, yet useful. and sure to prove a pleasant surprise. Powder boxes of various types, some with a wateh In the cover, beverage shakers and "little brown jugs." or oak barrels with copper bands are | { i these are welcome. | possibilities, It is the unsmokable or unusable | chip racks and cabinets, complete many a mun's | game cabinets, chess and cribbage | sets--there are many, | { know the brand.'and match sets cedar ones, or a ship model, or drobe of a Woman | with his monogram, or cigarettes | leather cushions for his den--more Then there are poker many gifts for men if we but set our minds to finding them. ' Molt T included, and candy boxes and jars, as well. Then there are musical alarm clocks, probably the most useful of the many offerings, since they have a radium dial, and come in many colors. ' There are some unusual and charming wall pockets, for ivy or flowers, the latest ones done in metal and touched with color, red and green and strong blue predom- inating. Lamps in modernistic mood come in all sizes and at all prices, many of them enticingly low. Czecho pottery includes vases, bowls, lamp bases, flower pots, tea pots and odd pleces. The bridge hostess will welcome odd china, especially dishes for side re- freshments. i And in a general way mention must be made of closet fittings, the paraphernalia for the great indoor sport of bridge. since cards are always wearing out and tallies are always needed. Then there is a wealth of possibilities in glass and china, in pictures and mirrors, in incidental furnishments for the home and accessories for the ward- robe. In each old, familiar group you will be sure to find something new and appropriate. THE PICTURES : I : i