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ANAL AA TT RN i - te oh a = ir 0 ee DER Ay A Nb Pee ed me BY rh a ee WR MARNE REL SOE SERDAR oS Shed has 2 AFR SAL ATR Corts FN ar A 4 A 32 -- PORT PERRY STAR -- Wednesday, April 16, 1980 - New products help take the drudgery and I » * LR Ja BETCORR SERN PES ADEE DRC AFR SS Po SA ALA EAA PE ES de a le a gr NT ee et vhs "an SRE eg RE AR 1 Meh GORE No Ry ELA CER SRA sore muscles out of furniture re-finishing If you are one of the grow- ing number of Canadians who are or have a yen to be do-it-yourself furniture refinishers and restorers, but are frustrated by the tedious, time-consuming techniques involved, then take heart - help is at hand in the form of a simple method which eliminates the drud- gery and mess of traditional refinishing techniques. 'Restoring the rich beauty of fine wood hidden under old layers of varnished, lac- quered or shellacked finishes can be accomplished quick- ly, economically and with satisfying results by even the most inexperienced novice', says Homer Formby, a wood expert who has spent over thirty years experimenting with chemicals to invent a simpler, improved refinish- ing system. "And, unlike harsh paint removers and dip and strip techniques, my system doesn't raise the grain so sanding or filling are unnecessary, and it leaves the valuable color of age, or patina, in the wood." "When I was an apprentice in my father's antique and refinishing shop,' says Homer, who runs his busi- ness from Olive Branch, Mississippi, and is about to introduce his own line of furniture and wood restora- tion products in Canada starting in Ontario in May, "refinishing furniture and antique pieces could be a lengthy process involving lots of elbow grease." He says the traditional technique for refinishing pieces of high value involved passing sand through a fine sieve until only a very fine '"'dust" remained, then throwing it on a section of the piece and "grinding" down the old finish with a piece of oak. "This took weeks of inten- sive labor," says Homer, "but that was the only way to remove the old finish without destroying the patina - the rich coloring which comes from years of exposure to light and adds character to the wood." "It was hard work, and good craftsmen were disap- pearing. As a result, fast - furniture refinishing was becoming a catchword like fast foods - so people. were turning to dippers and strippers who were actually destroying fine furniture with harsh chemicals. There had to be an easier, better way of doing the job. I was determined to find it, and did." Homer, whose father and grandfather before him were both highly skilled wood craftsmen, says "some people believe that only fine antiques are worth refinish- ing. Actually, any good, wooden furniture can be converted from a service- able unit into a treasured piece," he says. "The furni- ture may be buried under built-up varnish in your living room or bedroom. It may be hidden away in your basement or attic. Or you may pick up a fine value at a flea market or local garage sale." "You'll enjoy refinishing a piece with sentimental value as much as a valuable antique. In fact, it doesn't WHY PAY MORE? 1978 NOVA 4 door, sedan, automatic, p.s., radio, defroster. This is a one OWNBrLar. .....c.xcnsnemens BIE Bit Bre on ONLY $3995.00 1978 CORDOBA V8, autoamtic, p.b., p.s., factory air, landau vinyl roof, speed control, radio, defroster. Lic. OMT 936 ... ONLY $5995.00 1976 MONTE CARLO V8, automatic, p.b., p.s., radio, defroster. This is a nice, clean car with only 46,000 miles. Lic. KHJ 122 .... NOW $3888.00 1977 CHARGER SE Bucket seats, console, red metallic with white landau roof, V8, auto, p.s., p.b., radio. Lic. LKP121 $3995.00 1976 VOLARE STATIONWAGON 225, 6 cylinder, 3 speed std., radio, defroster, good cottage car with lots of room. Lic. LHC559. ............ $2,495.00 1974 VEGA automatic, 4 cylinder, radio, defroster, a real gas saver with new brown metallic paint. Gone only 47,000 miles. Lic. HWV 611 ONLY $1,295.00 TRUCKS 1978 DODGE D100 2 TON with 8 FOOT BOX 225, 6 cylinder, automatic, L/M mirrors, rear step bumper. A one owner with only 19,000 miles. Lic. H75265. .. $4,495.00 1978 DODGE D100 2 TON V8, automatic, p.s., p.b., rear step bumper, low mileage. This truck has been used as our parts truck since new. Lic. ER6120. .............. a ONLY $4,695.00 1975 FORD F100 ¥2 TON with 8 FOOT BOX 6 cylinder, standard, L/M mirrors, step bumper, new paint, AM-FM cassette radio. Lic. A41 967 $2,495.00 AS-IS SPECIALS 1973 PLYMOUTH DUSTER 225, 6 cylinder, automatic, radio, good handyman's car. Lic. HBOS577. ............. RE $499.00 1972 CHEV IMPALA 4 dr. sedan, V8, auto., p.s., p.b. Lic. KDS 620 ... $465.00 1971 FORD PINTO 4 cylinder, 4 speed, radio, needs some body work, good second car vay 0]: 4 IH LAR ERRY 985-7329 have to be furniture. You can often add to the value of your home by refinishing fix- tures like cabinets, wood- work and even window sills. He says that no matter how dark or checkered a varnished, lacquered or shellacked finish may be, his furniture refinishing product can provide the solution to restore its beauty. The new refinishing liquids, such as Homer's, contain powerful solvents that will dissolve and liquify the old finish so that you only remove part of it - together with all of the wax, polish and ingrained dirt that has built up on the surface over the years. The remaining portion of the old finish is blended as it flows together into a fresh, unbroken film. Following this stage, the surface is ready for a new coat of clear, protective finish. Homer recommends a high quality tung oil finish which may, in the case of his own formula be applied by hand or a small pice of cotton cloth. Several coats give best results. The new brands of furni- ture refinishers are formula- ted for shellac, varnish and lacquer, but are not recom- mended for painted finishes, polyurethane or similar synthetic finishes. "In these cases, a paint remover is needed to get down to the bare wood," according to Homer. He advises, "a paint remover, such as my own, which has a thick, heavy- bodied consistency that enables you to lay the pro- duct on the surface without the necessity of brushing back and forth or a great deal of scraping which can damage the wood works best." Here are the easy to follow steps involved in refinishing a varnished, lacquered or shellacked piece of furniture or other wood surface. The new refinishing liquids are sold separately, or in Kits. The kits also include some very fine steel wool, a con- tainer of tung oil sealer, and finish coat, which is applied after you have used the refinishing liquids, and some excellent instructions and advice from Homer on refinishing and furniture Special Refinishing Products developed by wood authority Homer Formby area easy to use in restoring the natural beauty of wood furniture, eliminating the drudgery and mess of traditional refinishing tech- niques. Here, the old finish on a bureau is dissolved without rubbing hard and the rich colour of the natural wood begins to appear. care. 1. Set up a work location in an area well ventilated and removed from sources of heat, sparks, or open flame. Cover the floor working area with heavy plastic or layers of newspapers in the event of accidental dripping. Also, wear heavy rubber gloves to protect your hands. Remove as much hardware as pos- sible from the piece to be restored in order to provide an uninterrupted working surface. 2. Place about 10 to 15 ounces of the refinishing liquid in a shallow metal pan or glass dish (but not plastic) for small jobs; about a quart for larger jobs. -3. Take a pad of very fine steel wool (included in the kit or purchased separately) into three parts. This very fine grade of steel wool is important for good results, and Formby Refinishing Pads are treated to remove oil normally found in steel wool. Dip one piece of the steel wool pad into the liquid and then squeeze surplus liquid back into the pan. The pad is then still wet, but will not drip or run. 4. Using a circular motion, rub the dampened steel wool pad onto the surface, cover- ing an area about 8 inches in diameter. For horizontal surfaces, start in one corner and work across and length- wise. On vertical surfaces, start at the top and work down. 5. The circular rubbing action dissolves the old finish, which is picked up by the steel wool pad. The wood is left with a much cleaner appearance. As the old finish is melted and filtered into the pad, squeeze it out in the liquid. 6. After completing one sec- tion, dip the pad back into the pan of liquid and rinse it out. Then move to an adja- cent area, overlapping the previously restored area until the entire piece is completed. (Note: It is not necessary to complete the entire project at one time. You can stop and start as you wish.) 7. Replace the steel wool pad with a new piece as it starts 'to wear out. As the refinish- ing liquid in the pan starts to thicken, it should also be replaced. (Hint: Set the used refinisher aside for several days in a capped jar and you will find that the syrup-like thickening will settle. The top portion of the refinisher can be poured off and used again.) 8. The final color of the piece can be controlled, depending on how long you rub in each spot and how often you replace the liquid with clean material. Generally, the longer you rub the lighter the finish will appear. 9. Following the first appli- cation, take a fresh piece of - the same grade of steel wool and some clean liquid and go over the entire surface - but this time in a series of straight lines parallel to the grain. This removes the circular swirl marks left by the first application and evens out the entire finish. 10. Following this last appli- cation, allow the piece to dry at least 30 minutes, then give the surface a complete buff- ing with a clean, dry pad of the same grade steel wool. Use only moderate pressure while rubbing. 11. Remove all dust from the surface, then apply the first coat of the new protective finish. A hard-drying, oil- based penetrating sealer, such as the tung oil finishes, provides excellent qualities. The oil is rubbed well into the surface by hand or with a _folded pad of lint-free cotton "cloth (such as a piece of an old sheet) according to direc- tions. Any excess which cannot be rubbed in is wiped off after the oil has soaked in for about 15 minutes. 12. Allow the piece to dry overnight, then apply another coat in the same - manner. Usually two coats are sufficient, but more can be added for additional protection and a higher gloss. . 'We live in an age of mass production, of plastic and laminates and synthetics of all kinds," says Homer. "The craftsmanship of fine, old furniture and the rich glow of an old finish are things we all appreciate more than ever. My goal is to make it simpler and easier to enjoy and protect those things. Bringing an old piece -of furniture back to life is not only creative, it can also be economical - and most rewarding." 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