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% £ 8 ~T ry Ag oo " --l_ Zo ree Vo + J a »: Rr Br i oy ey RS gh Wa aS am a a ay on CN ana oman . "The Story Of Hats There are few men who can say with truth that they have made a joke about women's 'hats, which are considered fair game. But Dr. G. AVillett:Cunnington can take the: subject seriously. 'He Is an. expert on "women's dress and recently gave an authoritative radio discourse on hats, = Until the mid- sixteenth century, "women's-hats indicated social position; after that 'their chief aim was to emphasize personality. The "subtle hat lang-.. uage of women" demanded a vast range of materials, and Dr. Cun- nington said that in the last couple of centuries, "woinen have clapped on. their heads the contents of the botanical 'gardens, together with much of the zoo--floweys, "vege- tables, birds, birds' nests complete ' with eggs, snakes? scorpions, blue- bottles; dragon flies, cockchafers, stuffed kittens, bits of rabbit, foxes and other beasts of prey." But in all this bewildering variety of head- "gear, there have. been two basic types; one echoing the message of the dress, the other adding a post- script to it. In the 'middle of the "sixteenth century, the' hair, hitherto almost totally concealed, escaped. from cap- tivity and, ever since, has co- operated with headgear. For at teast 100 years, the hair, and not the hat, was what 'mattered. Pres- ently, ladies began to wear tower- lg caps indoors and flat hats out- ~side. Hair, reinforced with all man- 'ner of pads and articficial tresses, mounted higher and higher until, instead of a cap, they decorated this hirsute mountain with such ornaments as a postchaise and horses of glass or a ship in full sail. Ladies wore on their heads huge edifices of fruit and flowers cand A small farmyard of animals. 1 Vv | LE [ hg ' ' -q i |) 2 +4 = 2 ~- 2 med i = a . > FEE =) ; b 4 a | i % 1 - i 4 3 8 i -- PATTERN-4653 12-20, 30--4 "I want a classic that's interest- tng" is your motto! Here it is with decp neckline, 2-button front, slant~ away pockets on shirt frock, stun- ging in plain or plaids! «Pattern. 4653 in sizes 12, 14, 16,18, 30; 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42. Size 16 takes 414 yards 39 inch. ; "This pattern, easy to use, simple to sew, is tested for fit. Has com- plete illustrated instructions. Send TWENTY-FIVE CENTS €25¢) in coins' (stamps cannot be accepted) for this pattern. - Print lainly SIZE, NAME, ADDRESS, TYLE NUMBER. © Send order to Box I, 123 Ligh- teenth St, New Toronto, Ont. never . his. mode of hairdressing reached "ous, rand ip "the -evening, tic "it to. such a pitch that when ladies' hair was pomaded, powdered and dressed, it-- was left for three months and could not be combed. Towards' the "end of the eigh- teenth century, this top-heavy: and insanitary fashion declined,. and . 'hats began, to oust hair from the. first position. 'They. became enorm- ladies, anxious for height, 'wore tall.feath- ers that served as signposts. "All through the Napoleonic wars, hats were in the ascendant. The post-- war years were exuberently roman. and brought back enormous hats trimmed with anything up to 120 feet of gaily colored ribbon and a profusion of decoration. Coal scuttle bonnets then appeared, and at dinner, ladies of fashion wore velvet berets as large as tea trays, so that a gentleman seated between "two of them complained that he caught only an occasional. glimpse of his plate. These wayward and high-spirited modes gave place to the Victorian hounet which gripped 'the nape of the neck so tightly that side movements of the head were checked; it also shielded the cheek so that the niodest woman had per force to look straight ahead. After the Crimean War, emanci pation was in the air. Daring young ladies® abandoned the bonnet and took to the faster hat which al- lowed them a broader view of the world. And then the fruit and vege- table vogue began again and the stuffed bird came into its own. Not only wings and tails, but whole birds were planted on hats, over- burdening the wearers with a wealth of ornithological upholstery. Hats swept onward triumphantly until in the early nineteen hundreds they became overwhelmingly big. Millinery was aggressive, too; and pinned to the head by large hatpins which stuck out like skewers. The First World War swept all this nonsense away and after it, women emerged with short hair and the famous -cloche hat. During the Second World War, they tied their hair in "mediaeval kerchiefs. Now hats are "in" again, still a trifle undecided as to what they will be, but, said Dr. Cannington, "it is.no longer the hat or the hair that matters most; it is the sort of: head that women will decide to have, ox: rather, the use-she means to put " Helpful Hints For Busy Women One of the handiest tools in my kitchen was. once a long-handled, two-pronged fork. My busband turned it into my -jack-of-all-work by bending both prongs up 90 de- grees, about an inch from the - points. [ use it every day for pulling hot pans of food--roasts, cakes, baked potatoes from the oven. (It has saved me from any number of burns and blisters.) And I've found. "the gadget ever so handy for reach:. ing hard-to-get--articles on ~ higii. shelves and behind furniture; for catching the hem of a window shade that has- slipped out of reach; and for picking up articles: from the floor when stooping is difficult. It's a real effort-saver. * * * Dust off the old-fashioned glass- --front-bookcase-and-add it to-your | -- bloset equipment, for storing your hats, shoes, and best gloves. The dust won't reach them and with. the . convenient window, you can "pick your article. at a glance. fae found. that .mine saves more .Foom Aor - clothes in our." small bedroom closet rome .e Er SN CIE LE RE : No ironing's necessary for my small daughter's ribbons. After washing -and rinsing them as al- ways. | wrap each one around a smooth water glass until it is thor- oughly dry. Then when it's un- wound, presto! ail freshly "pressed and ready to wear. y Grievances aren't like Sheets-- they should 'be slept on before being aired. : ~ CROSSWORD PUZZLE ACROSS Salary Bouguat Affirmative Pearlod of time Ringed ba King Arthur's lange Northwestern State . Fashion [9 A ] 8 Attention ' Watch 5 [] Y WN Dm Nonmetallic clement . Be located CAccustomed . PInochle score 8. Male sheep 9. Style of dress a SH - $ 9 10 M 25. Puff up . 3%. Legends 2 3 Arideie . 3 Restrain : : Huge animal 39. Arethe same Trouble lengli: as the 'i radius Color 42. Beam "Cold dish 44. Notions . Mouse genus 47. Send out . Goodby 49; Little masseq Clncendiacism 50. Simpleton Kind of sirup 81. Employ . Decoy 53. Delun ernnmie iu ngency 54. Lighted 55. Discover: 67. Téllurium (symb.) nove . Was uneasy . Philippine trea | Poem 5 [6 itl 1 Exist 4 French gom- | roger ' 6.7 eft by Are 8 fn : 2, W ni LL Ambling horse i. Antique 8. Porsian elt 0. irl's nama - 1, Dark-skinned 1 1 2 2 2 2 3 3 2 a H] a 1 4 nerson 42. Dismounted 45. Wectrical nak . 46. Nalleved ; 48. Tioht molss ture $2 Peer Gynt Task (1% mother Inorganie' subs anees . coronef | Immerse saviry |. Rustic Effect NEW and Te USEFUL TOO Magnetic Cuff Links . Cuff links that snap and stay closed 'magnetically have been "de- veloped. 'By use of an aluminum nickel-cobalt alloy that is perman- ently magnetic, the magnetic device can withhold: a 'pull of 80 ounces: it is.claimed, The links are separate --=--one inserted into opening on one-- 'side of shirt, the othér into opposite opening, and mere click locks them securely. together. " " ~ LU) * £8 "Illuminated Speedometer New automotive speedometer ac cessory | projects exact speed of a moving auto in brilliant illumination __to a dime-sized screen located on windshield. Changing reading from the dashboard speedometer is con- stantly _ projected. ta. a, tiny metal screen fastened 'on the windshield approximately two inches below driver's normal line of sight. Screen changes color as speed increases, in- dicating speed variations without need for driver to look at numerals. ¥ * Sealed-In Siding does not simu- late. brick or stone but is a distinc- tive facing 1m its own, right with rustic simplicity of effect someivhat similar to extra" broad overlapping siding, Canadian 'maker states. Comes in panels about 48 in. by '15 in. with several divisions in cach to prevent pattern 'monotony and con- ceal joins, Surface lighly scored to break up light reflection, enhance textured. appearance. it is said. Comes in _silverswhite and _ solid Fgreen. r 2 r + * Canadian-Made Ladders : All aluminum ladders are being manufactured in Candda. Said to be 3-5 times stronger than wooden ladders, yet only L3-V; the weight. - Won't burn, splinter or warp, statés - . maker. No welds, bolts or screws used." Inds of tubiiig covered by heavy rubber feet. Standard lengths from 6 ft. to.20 ft.; extension ladders C16 ft fo 40 ft. : gle . . Sectional Poles _.. Sectional" aluminum combiwation poles adaptable to picking fruit, shakirg nuts, pruning, trimming.and sawing, are offered. A five-foot pole weighs one pound; a 30-foot pole, six pounds, A 60-foot pole can be built out of ten six-foot sections or two 30-foot sections. Sections can be quickly joined together and, if your.are working at 30-foot 'level of trec and want to dropdown to.the 20-foot level, it is only necessary to take off a few sections. : * $ - + Keeps: cabinet and closet doors closed by use of a permanent mag- net, Latch consists of two parts-- . magnet and a holding plate that is attracted to magnet. Magnet mounts by screws im top corner of cabinet Latch Uses Magnet . and holding plate_on top_corner of the door, - Co is + Tos * Aluminum Christmas Tree Table-sized illuminated Christinas tree made from fireproof expanded aluminum-«foil. This mesh alupiinum J was a material originally developed - for use in- washable air filters. Tree stands 22 inches high. ConeV lee Needlepainting is such fun! 1t's fascinating to watch this picture grow, in bright colors and easy stitches. Begin today! The whole family will love this! Pattern 919; transfer 1514x19 inches. Frame or line it. 6 Laura Wheeler's improved pat- tern makes needlework so simple with its charts, photos and concise directions. - Send TWENTY-FIVE. CENTS; in coins (stamps cannot be accept- ed) for this pattern to Box 1, 123 Eighteenth .8t,, New Toronto, Ont. Print. plainly PATTERN NUM. BER, your NAME and ADDRESS. ISSUE 81 -- 1949 For Dutch Christmas--Hollander Peter Kien, 4, points to the address of an orphanage in Holland, for which this crate of. candy is destined. His 6-year-old sister Marja looks carefull ing at the names on the crate, Teen-agers of the YWCA are send- "Chocolate for. Christmas" overseas for undernourished youngsters ih 18 countries. By the time you read this you'll probably be so deep: in- your holi- "day tasks--and pleasures--that you won't want to bother with anything - of "a complicated. nature. So here are a few recipes that are all fairly simple--but all gdod, and well worth clipping and saving if you can't get around to trying them soon. s * Some call them pancakes, other griddle cakes; but no matter what name you prefer, they're migfity fine cating, especially when th&ré's a real nip to the air. So here is a fine basic recipe for: Griddle Cakes 2 cups sifted all-purpose " flour. rie da teaspoons baking powde tablespoons sugar = - teaspoons salt tablespoons fat . 2 eggs, beaten 11; cups milk, vary with thickness. desired Method: Sift flour, baking pow- der, sugar and salt together. Cut in the fat as for biscuit or pastry. Combine the beaten egg with milk and mix with the other ingredients Just enough to moisten. FFollow-- manufacturer's "instruc- tions for perparing the griddle. Some are .treated "and require no fat. When griddle is hot, drop 'batter onto it from a tablespoon. ~Spread- each _cake lightly into a circle. 3 Cook on one side until puffed, full of bubbles and cooked on the edges. Then 'cook on the other side. This recipe makes 10 to 12 cakes about four inches 'in-'dia- meter. Stack and serve with a li- beral supply of butter and jelly 3 2 1% 4 or -syrup. ~ * ¥ * The frankfurter--or hot dog to give it the more familiar name-- has long been a stafddby. with countless women when they have to prepare a meal in a hurry, Next time you think of serving them, try them as: ; ; Barbecued Frankfurters 1. cup tomato sauce 14 cup molasses 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce . - V4 cup vinegar . 1 tablespoon bottled horse- radish : 2 tablespoons dry. mustard 34 teaspoon salt . VY teaspoon pepper _V% cup minced onion 1 pound frankfurters - Method: In a large skillet - or saucepan combine all ingredients except the framkfurters. Bring to a boil.__Arrange frankfurters in hot sauce and simmer 10 minutes. a 4; TABLE TALKS dane Andrews, shortening ------ basting and turaing occasionally. Serve on long buns. -Makes four or five servings. : . So many people; seem to be changing from white to brown or whole wheat bread these days that perhaps it wouldn't be amiss # I passed along this recipe for: Whole Wheat Rolls - ¥4 eake compressed yeast 1 cup lukewarm water 1 cup scalded milk } ; 134 tablespoons sugar > 214- teaspoons salt 2% cups flour 234 cups whole wheat flour 1 tablespoon melted Soften yeast in one-fourth eup: of lukewarm water. Combine milk and rest of water and add sugar and salt. When milk solution is lukewarm, add yeast mixtare.- Sift white flour once and measure. 'Mea- sure whole wheat flour and blend the two together, Add half of the flour mixture and beat thoroughly. - Add shortening and blend. Add just enough of the remaining flour to make a 'dough that 15 stiff enough to knead. Knead thor- oughly for 10 minutes. - Let rise in warm place (80 de- grees) until double in bulk. Punch dough" down and let it rise until it is double in size again: then mold into rolls." Let rise -lighter- than for- bread. -- -- ---- --- _--~Bake about 20 minutes-in a 400- degrees oven. . * PS And now, for. those of you who have.a "sweet tooth," here's how to go about making a really deli- cious: =. " English Toffee to Method Put in heavy skillet % 1b. of butter Heat until bubbly, but not brown. Add: 1%4 cup sugar --=- 2 tblsp. water 34 b. whole blanched almonds or other nuts Cook over moderate heat, ~stic- ~ xing constantly; until- the nuts are + sugar is. light toasted thtough and brown. - : Pour into buttered 7% x 1l-inch pan. Cool thoroughly. Turn out on waxed paper. Melt: 3 (1-0z.) squares chocolate or 14 package semi-sweet chocolate pieces i AE a i Spread a thin coating over toffee "with spatula. When hagd, turn tof- fee and coat other side. Let harden. Crack into small - pieces (it's very rich) with mallet. or wooden spoon. Makes 2 dozen pieces. 5 Ls untll SEES -- -- playmates, #2 san BABA E ERE AEE BER REE * Busy, Busy, Busy -- Never a wasted moment for Susan Gail, | nine-month-old daughter of Mr. and Mrs. David Katz. Susan "juggles and guzzles at the same time, presenting a picture of . perfect contentment, = . | "Dear Anne Hirst: My husband lias accused me of having an affair "with his brother -- his own brother, who has always treated me like a 2 sister. He 'bas' hurt us," for we both love himets "Since "our marriage over three years ago, my. husband has 'moved us from one place - to another. = Most bt times we had to live in one room ouf on a dairy farm. My children have had no and have hardly 'ever' been fo church or Sunday school, "If I have a woman for a friend, he runs her down, as he does my own family, My father lives 150 miles away. I havé visited him a few times, and my husband. accuses me of having affairs with boys I've grown up with there, boys who have always respécfed me and. my fam- ity! i : "I could almost forgive hit that, but this last charge . against his brother and me hurts most. I have _néver been untrue to him, and never -intend to be.- "How can things like this last? Is it fair to my little girls, to be" brouglit up in marriage their father has built on distrust? What is wrong?. I am tempted. to quit and make a new life for the children and nie. If ny husband is ill in some' way, I'd like to help him, for I love him. Discouraged Wife." Two Unhappy People * Your husband is a most un- * happy man. From some' -sense of inferiority he cannot believe that you love only him, that it would never occur to you to be disloyal. He doubts his own ability to hold you, and 'torments himself constantly whi the fear of losing you. Perhaps, too, because he has not been able to provide a more decure life for you. "It is likely that a psychiatrist -----$2.50, and bricklayers, $2.50 to $3. * thiuk too seriously about. leaving * him, . + + = ' "#.YA husband who doubts: his + wife's loyalty is' the most miser- * able of men. If 'your marriage Is Ti * being spoiled by such suspicions, . ~* * tell Anne Hirst about it. Address * her at Box 1, 123 Eighteenth Street, New Toronto; Ont. Upside down _to 'prevent peeking. re rn Te V i Big Difference In Fifty Years . The Labour Gazette, published by the Dominion Department of Labor, recently began its fiftieth year 'of publication. -- IE The records of -fair-wage con- : tracts for the Government work contained in the first issue, dated = September, 1900, furnish an inter- esting contrast with those prevail- ing today. It might be noted that the-rates quoted are per day, not per hour: ir LE Ordinary. laborers received $1.25 - to $1.50 for, a day of nine or 10 hours; electricians and earpenters, $1.50 to $2; plumbers, $2.25 .to "Stonecutters topped the list with a . daily wage of $4.50. : Come Out from Under the- could aid him. But I suggest that he first consult his doctor. Cer- tain physical conditions affect our self-confidence; once they are cured, we see ourselves and those who love us in a. very different light. Talk with the doctor first yourself and explain your hus band's strange insinuations: they will give him a cue. - It is humiliating and heart breaking to live with a man who doubts our integrity. It saps mar- .riage of its deepest meanng and destroys that mutual faith which * {s so essential a foundation. ns * Show your husband, in all the - * little ways"o know, how much * he 'means to you. Let him feel you "| _* believe ini him with all yoiir heart, |_* and that you eonsider yourself * lucky to have married him. Spoil _ * him in ways that will build up his * geliiconfidence and make him. * feel that, no matter how he fails * elsewhere, in his home 'he rules * as the centre of your family life. Shadow of : Try DOLCIN Tablets for prompt relief from ARTHRITIC and RHEU- MATIC pain... . Try DOLCIN. ,. get a bottle of 100 or 500 tablets from your druggist TODAY -and- join the thousands of relieved : . sufferers who by taking DOLCIN IS + have come out from under the : _ shadow of Pain... ; Most druggists carry DOLCIN. - If yoursdoes not, write direot to Try this course first, before you ose CRUMB COFFEE CAKE ~~ * 11 : g ll Stays fresh and full-strength on your pantry shelf for weeks! Here'sall you do: 16 a small amount (usually specified) of lukewarm water, dis- solve thoroughly 1 teaspoon sugar for each envelope of yeast, Sprinkle with dry veast: Let stand 10 minutes. THEN stir wells (The water used with the yeast counts as partof the total liquid called for in your recipe.) Oraer & nonths supply / ie P ! Recipe Measure into bowl, --lukewarm - water, granulated sugar; stir until sugar is dissolved. Sprinkle with 1 envelope Fleischmann's Royal Fast Rising Dry Yeast. _Let stand 10 minutes, THEN stir well. Scald 14.cup milk "and stir in 14 cup granulated 'sugar, 14 teaspoon salt, 3 tablespoons shortening; cool to lukewarm. Beat in 1 cup © once-sifted bread flour. Ad B35 1 = yeast mixture and 1 beaten : egg; beat well. Work in 213 f cups once:sifted bread flour, > 3 Knead lightly; place in greased : bowl and brush top with melted butter or shortening. Cover and set in warm place, free from: draught. Let rise YS until doubled in bulk, Punch arn down dough arid divide into 2 : equal ttions; form 'into : > smooth balls, Roll each piece - ; nto an oblong and fit into Fronsal pens about 7" x 11", \ arease tops, cover and let rise until doubled in bulk. Pierce ° tops with fork and brush with \ 2 table ns melted butter or shorte i x ing. 'Combine cup brown sugar Tehtly sree l own), 3 cu our, 34 cup fine dry cake or bread crumbs and : -1 n cinnamon; rubind -- 4 : ' tablespoons butter or shori- 2 * ; ening. Sprinkle crumble on top 3 of cakes, about hour, Take i hot oven, 400°, - M minutes, Serv , with butter, ° Seve iol, 7 cop Bg 1- teaspoon New Fast-Acting Dry Yeast Needs NO Refrigeration!