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THE DAILY TIMES FashionHas Spoken HE fur problem, in fashion, calls for a different solution from those applied to other wodes, and this is the result 0. wae fact that fur is, in the main, « winler material, Certain business | reasons, adequate and logical, are! responsible for fur sales through | the summer months, and it is im- | perative that the garments offered | be authentically styled for wear | when the weather and season for | them arrive. So the fur mode is a settled pedo) much earlier than any other, and! we may let our minds linger on the | beauty and appropriateness of it with a feeling of security, It is needful that we concern ourselves, in no small degree, with the fur itself, apart from the mode, for a fur garment is an Investment, not | a casual purchase, and an unsatis- factory purchase is little short of a tragedy chiefly because it is wholly unnecessary, No deal should be consummated until the buyer is sure that she has the right fur for the right pur- pose, Bhe should know where the pelts come frum--for certain coun- tries and climates produce the best skins of a certain sort; how they have been treated and what their workmanship, and she should know Just what she is buying, whether it is what it claims to be, or a sub- stitute, made necessary by the enormous demand for fur, Certain Furs Are Classics We hardly remember the time when a fur coat meant either beaver, Alaskan seal, mink or ermine--the coat of skins that are still in the mode, but are a mere background for newer pelts of un- known, and sometimes doubtful origin. These old-time furs are still utterly desirable, but there are not enough of them to go around, and something had to be found to fill the need even though animal farms supply many of the classic pelts, The fashionable lady in a Godey"s Book would be wholly bewildered, were she to read the long list of approved furs in a modern news- paper advertisement. And the modern woman is, in many in- stances, not much better off, for names mean little. When she is told that mink is important, she | woman ~ ,SoFar As Our Win-| ter Furs Are Concerned -- Summer Sales Made This Imperative. understands, of course, but she is not sure of the source of---let us say--"Wombat Lamb," a featured fur for winter, And the working of the new furs | would be a matter of amazement! to the old-fashioned lady of fash-! ion for skins are so supple that] they are us usable as materials, and so varied in coloring that they bear little resemblance to the orig- inal pelt. As a result the fur coat is quite as versatile of line and effect as the cloth coat, and it fol- lows automatically the general divisions made for winter wraps. Four Distinct Fur Coat Types The new fashion trend re- sponsible for sharply drawn lines of appropriateness to purpose, and 80 we have sports, Informal day- time, formal afternnun and eves ning types, each w..n pelts, lines and characteris > ul its own. The | who may possess but one fur coat will have to exert strength of purpose to keep from indulging in a garment that will not give her the satisfaction she craves. Sturdy furs make the sports coat | --raccoon, natural muskrat, beaver, nutria, leopard and durable pelts of that type. It is usual to include leather coats in the sports group, and there are colored, smoothed kid coats in many fascinating shades, lined, frequently, with fur. The reversible coat, fur on one side and cloth on the other, is now a possibility, for the new furs do not make them bulky, The informal daytime coat, a wise choice for the one-coat wom- an, is made of the short-haired furs of the type of pony skin, of caracul, of Hudson seal and of young kid, When there can be only one coat, and it will get steady wear, natural muskrat in the dark toned pelts is good, also squirrel, although the latter is not at all durable, is classed in this group. Incidentally, such a coat should be cut in conservative lines. Beauty In Formal Afternoon Furs Beauty and fragility seem to be the prevailing characteristic of the skins that are the choice for after- noon wear, Frocks of satin, trans- parent velvet and chiffon, ultra- formal in their type, demand a wrap that is complimentary as well is | son may as a complement, So we see coats : , \ & 2 »y) WN Flv son of squirrel, colored ermine, baby | lamb, Alaskan seal and even sable, if one can afford the luxury caracul, in black, is smart Jvening brings out the luxury | furs, and of them all ermine seems | the most appropriate, There ure | some gorgeous ermine wraps laced | or lined with bright-hued velvets, | specially effective over some of the | pastel shades, Incidentally, the brocaded crepe satins are the lining | choice for the smart daytime coat! with formal tendencies, Mink must not be forgotten for it Is always a possession, giving a life- time wear. | Just how versatile a single fur can be Is proven by a collection of lustrous black moire caracul coats, for while some have self collar and cuffs, others have a collar or cuffs or both of mink, baum marten, | Russian sable, Hudson Bay sable | or kolinsky, Broadtall coats wear | Chinchilla, mink, sable, silver fox | or collar themselves, | The Silhouette Is Important While it is always necessary that we consider the trend of fashion, | It is also necessary that any ex-| treme of fashion be carefuly avoid- ed. What may seem the utmost of | desirability and smartness this sea- | be a horrible anachron- | ism next--Ilittle short of bizarre, | So a medium course must be fol-| lowed und deference paid while! slavish following is studiously | avoided, And this speclal care is| necessary, | The display of fur coat models on this page includes an Alaskan seal coat of unusual lines that are drawn by the trimming--such a | coat can be stripped of the trim- | ming fur and become conservative, | The coat of beige broadtalil, in- tricately seamed and trimmed with inserts of sable, will always be one thing and one thing only--a model of the 1928-9 season, for it is flared and slightly form-fitting, The ermine coat is peculiar to both a type and the season--a love- ly thing for a special purpose, the prerogative of the woman with a generous dress allowance, Set against these type and seasonal coats, we have the coat of mink, the one of muskrat and the three straight line coats of short fur that will be 'quite as correct in 1930 as they are this winter, They are discreet, conservative, sensible, yet possess smartness, Details Distinguish The Mode Perhaps the one trimming idea of importance, and the one that Moire | can be used on even the most con- servative model, is the manipula- tion of the skins themselves, The muskrat coat is straight of line, but it is far .from plain. Points and scallops are of this season, but the darker parts of the fur, worked into points at the bottom of the garment, will be just as smart two years from now, nor will they re- call this winter's styles, There is no denying the presence of the flare in general fashions. Its THE NEW MAN~MADE == LLCS E may no longer avoid giv- ing artificial materials our earnest consideration, for they grow more important every season, and have attained a perfection that is noteworthy. And they appeal for u third reason-- they are consistently lower in price than in the materials they imitate, 'We cannot afford to ignore a prod- uct that we are using, oftentimes unknown to us, more and more fre- quently and in more and different ways. In a general way these man- made fabrics are called rayon, and were first introduced as an arti- ficial silk because of their silky qualities. When we first tried them | cut we found them unsatisfactory, | for they possessed a low tensile strength--were reduced to practi-| cally no strength at all in wa- ter, although they ragained their strength when dry, and they did not take dyes at all satisfactory. | They were inclined to be heavy | and they were not supple, although | decidedly lustrous. The first knit! garments that were produced not only stretched, but sagged, and if a thread broke, it produced rune and ladders much more quickly, even, than silk. Dyers made their products for silk, wool and cotton --rayon was neither, so it refused to take color from dyes manufac- tured for another type of material. The very fact that the general fashions of the moment stress sup- pleness, a wide range of colors, softness, sheen, but not a high lus- ter, and durability in their ap- proved fabrics, added to the in- crease in the consumption of rayon and its rapidly growing populurity, serve to prove the advance that has been made in perfecting this material. Rayon yarns, at one time generally discredited, are now a staple, We are told that pliability has been achieved, and a new line of dyes has been originated. Luster has been reduced and a soft sheen acquired. And finer, softef yarns, more of 'the texture of silk, have been brought out, These improve- ments have made possible the growth and expansion of an indus- try that will soon be an accepted fact, as Is the silk and cotton busi- ness; automobiles; the radio. In one respect rayon has a dis- tinet advantage over silk, wool, or cotton, It ts a manufactured yarn and does not depend upon crops, herds or the humbie worm, which produces our favorite yarn. For that reason production can be in- creased or lessened at will, and sta- blity of price is more easily at- tained. And in a day of many Jux- uries, this is no Inconsiderable argument in its favor, The woman who longed for silk underwear, but found it necessary to keep to cotton, has a friend in rayon. It is not silk, to be sure, but it makes garments that look like silk, yet wear exceedingly well, and who will deny that there's "Nothing either good or bad but thinking makes it so?" A survey will show that rayon materials have replaced cotton to a great ex- tent in the ynderwear field. Frocks of rayon, or rayon fp combination with cotton, are now stock-in-trade in the department stores. 'Do not assume that rayon has the wearing qualities of cot- ton, for it has not, as yet, although there are promises that we may hope to see fulfilled, But the dif- ference is not as great as it might ke. and when the two form an alliance, we have the sheen of the one and the durability of the other, It will be noted that rayon not only stands by itself, but combines acceptably with other rayons. Used with the older materials it cre- ates novelty effects that are in- triguing. These materials are used as a background and a design is worked out in rayon, or the threads are used to achieve a mixed effect. Foreign manufacturers, notable for their textiles, have begun to experi- ment with this new yarn. 80 we have rayon and rayon- and - cotton, rayon - and - silk, and rayon-and-wool mixtures added to our fabric list. Rayon velvets and rayon volles are featur2d in the fabric sections, and wide - spread advertising campaigns have been instituted to tell the world of women of the possibilities of this new yarn, not only in general fash- fons, but in the drapery and up- holstery field. Rayon fabrics are novel, beautiful, distinctive. 1 presence in the silhouette of a fur | coat will date that coat, for even if the flare continues a feature of our tashion contour, it will differ, and it takes only the lowering or raising, the narrowing or the broadening of a line to make all other versions of it out-of-date. So--if your coat must do another year or more, avoid the flare. While there are occasional models that show the fitted trend, the curved line is more apparent in circular seamings or circular work- ings of the pelts. Scallops, diag- onals, uneven hems are noted, and there are treatments so subtle as to be almost indistinguishable, but important in their effect. Mod- eration must be the watchword, if your coat is to be a real satisfac- tion to you for more than the single season. COSTUM 8 the fall mode rounds into shape, we see new jewelry fash- fons appearing in the shops, and we learn that real or simulated | stone pleces are to share honors | with crystal, which has been prom-| ised a brilliant social career by | | the Paris fashion sponsors. And it, lis interesting to note that some | ! very attractive designs are avail-| able---brooches, pendants, chokers, | necklaces and earrings -- at mod- erate prices, | The vogue for color is repeated | in the stones, which include thel soft tones of chalcedony, lapis, | chrysoprase, pose quartz and car-| nelian. Amethysts and topaz are | mounted in marcasite, and the whole ! group is designed for wear with the new jewel-toned satin and vel- vet frocks that are approved tor | fall wear. Many of the brooches | are set dn sterling silver when mar- | | casite is not used. > E JEWELRY NOTES | | | | | |] | Buymanship F you wonder at times how | | friend of yours manages! to keep well dressed and at the! same time sees to it that her house- hold néeds are amply supplied-- all this on a limited budget--youn | may attribute it to just one thing! --her ability to buy. There is a fine art that we may call, for want of a better name, "Buymanship." It increases the value of our dollar and makes it do, if handled rightly, the work of two, ! Many things contribute to this! art--knowledge of fabrics, colors! and lines, if it be clothes we are, buying, a sense of values in house.' hold equipment, and, quite as much of either, knowing when fo buy, A! word concerning the latter requisite | Simulated rubies and emeralds appear in bracelets that alternate | large rectangular stones, and. two | stone rings, the stones set on a! slant, have the stones cut cabachon | fashion. Turquoise and black is a | vogue of the moment, and square | stones are set with narrow jet or | crystal pieces: between. Pendants] combine the black or jet with the | blue of turquoise effectively, also | emerald and black. { There will be a wide use of the | cold, clear-cut crystal stones, spe-| cially effective against black velvet! or satin in the flower or jewel, shades. Then there are crystals] that are smooth. milky, almest ppaque, much featured in the new | autumn jewelry and costume ac- cessories. an example of their use in the latter a suede bag that has a suede handle with a erystal ring. Crystal buckles will be worn on evening slippers. | when Ig | ald I ag | rule, and it | tion { dres Lr ler of the budget. The BLAIR. of [AS SIIOY under the stress of never good business, vne's rst. Buying need 1s budget should permit a purchase some attractive value is ol- fered, as in a sale. A good tabric is an economy, if into a garment that is sufficiently conservative of line to stand a second Unly the woman an unhmited budget can af- the trock or the cout that is her desire for the novel vogueish thing ean be ful- but the woman who mus! t is incorporated nd wear, flied ou I is well as meet the need ot the : The cessory £153 } ON comparatively inexpensive is 'the exception to this will afford the up-to- that nowadays Is fm. may be a scarf, or a footwear or handwear, serve the purpose, In , this--poor shoes are poor ship, in the same propor. and for the same reason that the coat of shoddy tabric or the y material would be, tine footwear and headwear, suits, frocks and coa's of good materials in simple lines and colors that will "wear" must first considered. After them come the important things, which may fitted to the re- To acquire the must follow the rule that bids us buy when prices are reduced, in far as one can de this and keep to the path that hion points, At certain "Saving Sales." ch It we or date tou perative. neck but will ) 1 s of Good corsets, be less be best one £0 seasons there are During the period of sales furs, furniture, household linens and all kinds of house supplies, as well as lingerie and other garments are featured. It is at sale time that a knowledge of fabrics, colors and general values will stand you in good stead. You can save from thirty-three and a third to fifty per cent by making every possible purchase at such a time. those economically must deal in fu- | 'Type--AReal Problem E know that there ure many types of women who must assimilate each new mode in an individual way. There are tall, slender women and tall, full-figured women, and so op down through the list to tiny women who can buy to good ad- vantage in the junior section. But fashion has not always taken this fact into consideration, for many years setting a single style for ev- erybody, regardless of type. Such a method of procedure was prohibitive in more ways than one, | for lack of variety made individ- uality impossible the while it re- sulted in many sartorial for the lines a slender woma® found becoming were impossible for the larger woman, yet she hal to make the best of them, ant | there were times when there was | no best. All this has changed. We are now almost overwhelmed with the variety that was, hitherto, wholly absent. For the problem has become a question of knowing what not to wear, instead of finding a way to make the most of a limited choice, Dressing ones self becomingly means a process of elimination-- when the impossible has been dis carded, one may choose the bes of what is left. And this can b{ done in every fleld--sports, formal or Informal daytime clothes, or th( picturesque and interesting eve- ning mode. There is a difference between | dressing one's self and just cloth- ing herself, To do the former we must learn the lines, the materials, | the colors, and the trimming inci- | dentals that are our special prerog- | ative, then survey each new mods | tor those special characteristics, | Ignoring the rest, no matter how appealing it may be. Few women are born with a perfect clothes | sense, so it must be cultivated, 'The mode is an extremely adapt. able thing, permitting of varations, | Even general rules, the background of every new mode, are flexible, After all, there is a reason for every change, and back of every- thing the designer does there is a | definite purpose--one can trust her | to carry out that purpose. | General examples can be given, | but individual rules must be formed | for each and every one of us. The | blonde, the burnette, the woman | with mouse-hued hair -- all are | types, and there are types within each type, Figures vary far more generally than weight, and each individual has some good point that she would stress and some bad point that she would hide. She | herself must learn how these things { can be done, | We hear much talk of the flared | slthouette, yet there will be hun- | dreds who would make an irrepara- ble mistake were they to attempt it. For them there is the silhouette | with fulness that falls, neverthe- | less, In a straight line, but shows nothing of abruptness when It rip- ples into motion. For some the | fitted or yoked hipline, for others | as little stressing of hips or walst- | line as Is possible. | Necklines were never so varied-- | do you remember the long stretch | of several seasons when the un- trimmed bateau or round neckline --more generally unbecoming than |any In all fashion--were the only ones fashion approved? Now they | are worn only when they are indi- | vidually becoming, and we have # | choice of the square, the irregular, | the V-line und the squared V-line, Skirts vary in length and the reg- ularity of thelr hems. | Find the color that best becomes | you, but do not be content with that! | Study shades. There will be cer: | tain shades that will bring a deepe; | tone to your eyes, or a touch of | color to your cheeks. Study mate- rials--surfaces are important, Ané | when you find the silhouette that gives you the height you need, find the special adaptation that ls your very own. Apply these principles to every dress detail and accessory. C irisuims feature to piyue the interest? A brightly colored bur on a black antelope bag has an amusing key catch, A blanket bag of calfskin uses two colors and is elaborated with a felt and leath- er motif in monogram effect. And so it goes. THAT there's smartness in an evening frock of white, worn with a colored wrap and shoes? It would add a piguant sauce to the summer wardrobe that is veginning to show signs of wear, especially if the frock were chiffon and the wrap of velvet. Jewel tones are gffective, | DID YOU KNOW--- HAT new handbags have in THE PICTURES (1) The approved type of coat will note, are slim and straight, ity with such a model, for the young girl. Lines, you making another year a possibil- in these garments we see reflected the vogue for both short-haired and curly furs, apparent also in general fushions, . (2) Even the sports cost ylelds to the new themes, Here we have an ensemble, made up of coat and muff, the latter an old [Mriend returned. The use of animal heads on the cuffs of the ¢oat is a feature of the pew winter fur fashions, and the skins are beautifully matched, (3) A usury garment for the formal evening affair, Regal ermine, snowy white, makes this slim-line wrap bordered with sable, Sleeves, wide at the wrist, have touches of metal em- broidery, and further trimming is provided by the clever manipulation of the ermine skins. (4) A mink coat of approved vative fi Not only the fur, but the lines of this garment are classics. and no matter what may be offered in the way of flares and fittings, this wrap will be both smart and appropriate. Nor can the new furs dim its beauty. (5) Elaboration reaches the field be too elegant in her lingerie, improvement in the quality and i hings. One cannot and with the steady of man-made materials, fusury is possible at a most reasonable cost. This gown is in- dicative of the trend. (8) Beige broadtail and sable combine tn this coal. lines are the latest in the fashion picture, for both fit and are used. The hemline is made uneven with scallops sable, which is the trimming, is and collar. nd hs flare and the used for imserts in both slecves