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DAILY no "TIMES oF fds LTT | Honors Are Divided Evenly in Many of the Essentials -- It is the Little Thing That Tells the Story. F you are looking for change, as fall approaches, you will not be disappointed, for changes are many. But it id pot in essentials that this Is apparent, yather is it detalls,. One may assume that fashion is very well satisried with the advance she has made Ip the pust few seasons, and it is away from severity and man- nishness toward softness and grace. In a way, the changes are vefinements of what already exists, Yet ope Is conscious of a trend toward something-or-other, though nothing definite is apparent, It is very like a smooth flowing stream ----one is not really sure there is a current until progress is noted by the changing shore line. The fall and winter mode will be very dif- ferent from the mode of spring and summer, but the difference will be achieved by means that are only subtly varied, pot definite steps at all. For designers have a double problem, We like the mode of the moment, and anything new must have an equal, even a greater appeal. But there must be things new to keep up our interest In clothes, the biggest business In all the world. To make acceptable changes that will pique our interest and meet our approval is the effort of the orig- inators that are trying to lead us, yet keep us pleased at the same time. The Value Of Variety Apparent There are so many. ways that fashion can change, and there are s0 many possible changes for each way, that ope can truly say that there is variety within variety, and the designer counts on this. Fabrics can change, and weaves within the fabric group, colors may be stressed that were not in favor the season preceding, and shades of popular colors may vary, and variety can be introduced in the combination of both color and fabric. The silhouette can change, and within the general line we have detailed lines--npeck, walst, hem and 80 on. And the detailed lines take many courses, writing a dif- 'ferent tale each time. From the pew groupings we may select one each, and we will And, when we bave assembled the whole, that it is eminently satisfactory, but does pot, in the slightest, resemble the offerings of the season that we are bidding good-bye. We will recognize the fact that some of the ideas that were intro- duced, tentatively, In spring and summer clothes, now appear bold- ly, as a part of the new mode arriving. They have been tested and found good, therefore they are made a definite part of fall fashions. There is a tendency ap- parent to try out a theme one sea- son, then stress it the season fol- lowing, if it meets with the ap- proval of the buying public. This idea Apparent In The Silbouette If you care to look back over the years, you will ind that the idea of width, the flare and movement have been a long time reaching their present status. We were introduced to the kinetic silhouette some seasons ago, and were intrigued with this departure from static. We now find our- selves a long distance from the immovable lines that character- ized the tube or pencil silhouette | of the post-war period. Fuliness has been tried out ev- | erywhere, with original interpreta- | and black and white used com- tions of everything that would con- | spicuously. tribute to it. | patterns brings us bordered and | are featured, when it comes to we are offered flared lines with the flare beginning low, well below the hipline, and the silhouette, far from belng straight above the flare, shows a decided tendency to moulded lines. For several sea- sons there has been talk of the "princesse," but only hints of it are apparent, so far, Perhaps this fit-and-flare Idea Is | the most no le of any that are offered, and it will bear watching. That 'the old-time princesse gown will return is unlikely, and we see far more of its influencq In eve- ning wear than anywhere else, We may never lose sight of the fact that the evening mode is the best place to look for innovations, for it is there that designers yield to flights of fancy and their active imagination, Flounces And Tiers Are Used For the achievement of flaied | lines there i# no better medium than the flounce or the tier, the latter cut circular, or in a fitted line. It is surprising how much width is to be found in this fuli- ness placed low upon the skirt, | for the molded hipline above it fits snugly. The waistline Is a com- promise to one's individual needs, | for you may say that It is normal | or low, as you look at the top or the bottom of the swathed hip. We often see, and pote with envy, slender youth with a really | normal waistline, no attempt made | to conceal it. But only the slender lady can wear it, and plumpness calls for a more conservative line Above the waistline there Is a tendency to repeat the skirt treat- ment, and ope notes tiers oy flounces as a part of the bodice | treatment. For several seasons we have felt that we could please ourselves, | when it came to the neckline for our frock, -And it will be the same | this fall, although there is ten dency to stress the bateau line in | a modified form. Probably the V-line will continue the favorite, for it is beloved of the large wom- an and the woman with a short neck. Kerchiefs, scarfs and tles will be important in neck treat. ments. Sleeves An Important Detail As yet the fashionable sleeve is in an experimental stage. Some of the designers are inclined to introduce width at the elbow while others keep to the tight line. In the same spirit of indecision, some flare the sleeve below the elbow and others puff it. There is, how- ever, one type that remains com- fortingly with us-- the bishop mode), although width above the band or tie at the wrist is some- what modified, ' They promise' us velvet, satin and chiffon as the outstanding fabric fashions for fall. This means, only, that they will be specially favored, and the other materials, as crepe, silk, the metals and novelty weaves will make a background. Wools will include the kasha weaves, broadcloth, velours, wool crepe, flannel, tweed and jersey, each in its allotted place--sports, dress or strictly formal. We know that great progress has been made with tweeds, and that the basket weaves are im- portant. The vogue for figured | | | panel designs, and all over prints, in small motifs, are featured. Red. | blue, green. beige. gray and greige colors, with black always present There are new shades For the new scason | lin every color group. 1 DE TAI LN DISTINGUISH THE Seen in the Shops F your attention has pot been attracted, lately, to the hand- kerchief and its new impor- tance, there will be a pleasant sur- prise for you in the up-to-date dis- | plays. Sheer linen is the daytime choice, apd it is, printed, the patterns inclining to demureness and the colors plain. | White bandkerchiefs prefer the ipitial, 2 monogram, or a modest design. Evening brings out the large kerchief of exquisitely fine material, as batiste, trimmed with the sheerest laces and nets or with maline. Black lace, of Chantilly type, trims kerchiefs in delicate pastel shades, and care must bé given to the choice of this detaj) lest it be inharmonious and | ruin the ensemble effect. Sport kerchiefs are gay affairs, alive with color, but closely associated with | some detail of the outfit. » PID YOU KNXOW-- THAT there are mew and in- triguing offerings in the flower garden of fashion, all planned for wear with the new models of the season? There are trailers--of chiffon for the chiffon dress, flower | groups in the same combinations as the frock design, and the tri-| color, not new. but smart. very often, | sheer | ADAPTING = ACCESSORY = HE ing and our shops are already show- the new fall accessories, they elaim, deservedly, consideration. The list possibilities and needfuls is constantly growing, and now in- | cludes, {irrespective of headwear and footwear, belts, scarfs, flowers and kerchiefs, as well as handbags, hand wear and costume jewelry. Ideas in these are always new, and 80 great is the variety that no | need should be left unfulfilled. We are always interested in the news notes that tell us of the i foibles and fancies that have been thought out lend smartness to our costume. In the sports shop | we find a boutonniere, just a single | flower, really, made of leather, and : the leather is perforated to match | a narrow belt in the same shade, | | which may be red, green or what- | ever you Memand. An instance of ) ins that are taken! |] of to | Leather much THE FALL sports flowers, antelope leather and suede the favorites. Felt, very soft and fine, is also used for the same type of clothes as leather. Materials vary according to the use to which the flower jis put, and velvet and chiffon are liked. the latter used on evening gowns in trailer style, the chiffon often- times a print. There is a fine use of color in the way flowers are applied to one's gowns. When the dress is of-a printed chiffon, the flowers--roses or gar- denias--may be in one or more plain colors, repeating the tones that predominate in the pattern. At times there are as many as four separate blossoms, each in a dif- | ferent tone, and one can instantly see the possibilities of such an ae- | cessory for accenting color Vel- veteen is a new fabric to become material for designers of this de- | tail. | tion, | of safe economy. | godets, Mention should be made of the | approved for | accessory line that has been intro- | fashions we find the normal waist- | group- )] = odd piece is sufficient to smarten a simple frock, but there must be a fine correlation of parts, if sue- cess {is to result. Rectangles, squares, all types of link effects and solid pieces abound. Tiny beads in clusters, employing sev- eral colors, are used with large beads alternating, Gloves will bear watching, for they reflect the general trend of fashion in their detail. Since the mode stresses curves, angles and the ltke, with more than a little accent on modernistic effects, it is not strange that these ideas are carried out in so small a thing as a glove. Effects not unlike patch- work are seen and there are clever uses of thongs and lacings in color, Silk, velvet and embroideries ap- pear on them. The pleats, godets, tiers, ruffies, flounces and panels of the frock mode are noted in the glove mode. Bracelets, not new but smart, are a distinctive touch. And there is no small amount of rivalry be- tween the slip-on and the tailored, one-button glove. Colored gloves have made a place for themselves, portant material, as well as the reptilian leathers. Belts follow bags, adding patent leathers to the many minor ensembles are featured. We know that it is an accepted | fact that velvet and satin will be and among the more familiar tones | favorite evening materials. {all mode, clever adopt 'the reptilian handbags in various $ and flowers are of- fered, and they are distinctive and | unique (ne and then, | a chrysanthemum carelessly among the new noth- ing could better prophesy fall And there are gardenias patterned in modernistic angles and colors Bags are oddly shaped, and quite oddly trimmed Two leathers two materials in contrast, color contra are popular velopes are smaller, and there some novelty bags that seem to the pouch with the en- Antelope continues an im- ! duced things motif | styles, in the that Shoes, belts notes, now laid accessories also En- are | or combine velope. Know- | we have browns, beige, gray and the black and white combinations ---- a - NOVELTIES It is sometimes interesting to necklaces and the | note the novelties displayed, even of jewelry. Net|inhough they may not be at all and chiffon Kerchiefs will be worn appropriate to one's needs, for tied about the wrist or slipped | they prove that individuality and through a bracelet. Net and chif-| giversity is now assured us, If we fon triangle scarfs are offered. | seek It. The ensemble is stressed Bags metallic cloth or of|ip a three-piece outfit made up of brocade, embroidered or sequinned, | pouch bag. boutonniere and scarf, will be worn. There will be many | the material for all three a gay, gorgeous and luxurious accessories | plaided silk in strong colors. Silk planned for this most exotic of | bags, either stitched or quilted are modes, and extreme care must be! another offering, and in one pouch ised in the ehoice of suitable bag cloth and satin are combined, ils to round out, without ruin-!the frame of onyx studded with the ensemble The accessory brilliants Shoes and bags for the is an essential, quite ag much as! sports costume may match, apd the frock or wrap, and can be de- they will gay. although the pended upon to lend distinction, or | background is often in a neutral completely spoil, the general tone. There are tweed bags with effect, | leather mountings for sports, and One's first impression of a cos- velvet and duvetyne handbags are tume jewelry display Is that It ig| making their appearance Ante extremely ornate, and it will surely | lope and suede have lost none of prove y to over dr A single! their popularity for afternoon wear, it is not strapge that eve- ning accessories are Inclined to brilliance. Brilllants, rhinestones | and diamond-cut white stones will | be favored for essary pieces ng this, nec of be to of the most satisfactory! developments in the fabric in- dustry, and the most notable, if one excepts the interesting new man-made materials, Is the advance of knit goods to a posi- pot only of importance, but Only the shoddy, | cheaply made garment shows a | tendency to stretch or sag, and as a result we have a contribution to the sports mode that {is beyond! valuation. It is an accepted style. | Few realize that jersey is quite as much a knitted material as the | loosely woven knit sweater, but] this is so. And were we to take away this fabric from our sports| fashions, we would suffer from their lack of variety. And this fall! jersey will combine with velvet and velveteen in some unusually, smart ensembles, making. as fe) does, the cardigan jacket worn! with a skirt of contrasting fabric, , or jumper for the same purpose. ) There are knit Scotch tweeds, | and they, as well as jérsey, are used to carry out the cardigan| idea, which is a holdover from the summer season. But fall finds them | somewhat longer. and at times they drop to the hem of the skirt. | becoming, in the process, a sports| coat. It will be possible, of course, | to get these short jackets or coats | separate from an ensemble, using | them with several costumes. | Knitted fashions are quite the | same as general fashions, and are quick to adopt or adapt everything | possible to their uses. They can do | £0 many things with their almost- | human knitting machines, and' they knit designs and trimmings and embroideries into the patiern to be used for a dress. They even knit tiers by means of flat ruffles | fhat lie in pleats. and make a gen- | eral use of pleated effects and knit in. In this particular type of sports | | this group---as a | fashion note. stressed, for it is considered | There is infinite variety in the smart to tuck the sweater in under | new sweaters which are more and the When this is not pos- | more like blouses or jun.pers, be- sible, happens in many 'Ip-| ing used in exactly the same way. stances, the skirt is dropped lower, | The patterns of these sweaters are giving a longer waist. The top of | infinite in their variety. and stripes the hip is then the approved line. | are considered smart. grouped Two-piece effects are preferred in| variously apd in many colors. matter of fact,! while embroideries are used and the two-piece dress is a smart fall | there is favoritism shown modern- | istic motifs of decoration. skirt as THE PICTURES (1) Printed velvet or plain--yon may choose. But whichevkr you prefer. it will be of the transparent sariety, whether 8 tajloped suit or an afternoon frock made more luxurious with real face. Note the evening back and irregular hemline, fea- tures of the approved formal fall fashions, (2) An afternoon ensemble in satin snd velvet. The most im. shade of green and the selvet is transparent. treatment of the skirt is repeated op the blouse. (3) Fashion will make much of the tier. in this two-piece dress, and by the way, two pieces are better than one, the skirt consists of two pleated tiers. and the jumper has a scarf- finished neckline. The detail of machine stitching on blouse, sleeses and scarf is dope in silver. (4) Transparent velveteen in afternoon wear. Black and white is always smart, and when it is black velvet and white satin. there js nothing smarter. Velvet appligues trim the blouse portion, which extends to ap Arregular hipline, and a raggedy carnation appears on the coat lapel. (5) A modernistic study io blue and gray. This two-piece frock in a biue gray worsted weave has a trimuning of marnow braid jn three tomes of blue. and the motif in which it fs onc. Two tomes are used for the culls harmony.