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Se WAY of LASTLY Certain Principles Have Prevailed -- They Will Continue On Into the Autumn Mode. HE summer mode has spent its beauty and has nothing more to offer us, We still find it of interest for we shall not be assembling a fall wardrobe for some weeks to come, that fs, seriously. And we review it care- | fully, taking it apart to find what made it the success that it un- doubtedly was, for we wonder If fall will continue the characteris- tics that endeared it to us, It has been a mode of charm. We are sure of one thing, it has been progressive. It has moved, for several seasons, steadily away from severity and mannishness, becoming gradually typical of fem- | inine tastes. It Is a complicated affair, fashion, but its very com-| plications make It pliable, and] there is nothing more unfriendly than a mode that sets rigid lines| and expects us to keep to them. A| true variety is a true friend in the | realm of clothes. Dominating everything ® the | spirit of harmony, traceable to the | underlying principle of the ensem- | ble, which makes us or mars us) as it Is perfect or imperfect, This characteristic is felt in everything, | whether it be under or outer wear, | and failure to achieve it Is fallure | to achieve a well-dressed effect, A | summer wardrobe for the late ¥a-| cationist will include garments with | fall touches, but in the spirit of) warm weather styles. Certain Fabrics Are Typical When autumn comes, we say farewell to some materials that are seasonable only in summer. KEspe- cially is this true of the new cot- tons, linen and fabrics of the type of rayon, They will have a gen- erous representation in house frocks, and threads of artificial yarn will be important in winter materials, but as a group that is really important, they will disap- pear. But they will be replaced In 8 satisfactory way. We saw a continued use of the workable textiles, made imperative by the flair for fulness and the very general manipulation of the goods of which the garment was made. The chiffons and laces and Georgettes have been prominently | featured, and unless all signs fall, | we may look ahead to a season of light welght wools and velvets that are quite as responsive to skiliful bands as materials accepted as wholly workable. Colors have belonged to the sea- son, and one of the things that promises much, for it is assured continuance, is the introduction of colored footwear into the ensem- "ble, making it possihle to completes | 8 coptume down to last detail, meaning shoes. The odd blue frock, or the one that takes to some unusual shade of red, may now be matched to shoes, either in the shops or through the medium of the dye-house, on order. The Insiduous Ensemble We may tire of the constant pepetition of the word ensemble, but it capnot be too often men- tioned, for it is omnipotent in the and to come. It ef- fects every little thing that we wear, and should be a safeguard pgeinst buying the trifle that at- tracts, yet has no place in any costume that we possess. It makes every department a comprehensive one, for there must be something for everything and a variety in that something. It has seemed to be a rule that every frock must have a coat, and when it is impossible to have a separate wrap for every dress, then there must be a clever choosing of one coat to do duty with several models. But for the true summer dress a coat or jacket is a compar: ative inexpensive thing, for it can be unlined. and in many instances can be little more than a jacket. ~ % RN N HON Wy Hven the evening dress has fits jacket, Beginning with the sports group, that is made up of quite as many sleeveless as sleeved dresses, we find coats in three-quarters length or jackets, many of them of the blazer variety, obviously chosen to complete an ensemble, It will be readily scen that If one's tennis frocks are white, a single coat will do for them all, and it will also do for frocks In any light tone, if it is white or In a pastel print, "Tennis" In Name Only We have spoken of the sleeve- less slip of a dress as a tennis frock, but one does not have to indulge in the game to wear it. It is, probably, the ideal knock- about garment, and with its ac- companying coat will answer any sports purpose. For use with the group that we Qesignate as sports there is nothing better liked than the white oves~-of flannel, cheviot| or a baskey weswe woolen, It may or may pot wear fur. And so It goes on through the dmy--~there Is a coat for every frock, or for several frocks, hut chosen so that it harmonizes with | each and every one, When eve- ning comes, there are amusing |it- | tle jackets of chiffon or lace which | serve various purposes, all useful. You can wear a sleeveless chiffon frock with a long-sleeved jacket to an afternoon affair, then wear it to dinner without the jacket, The Principle Of Change This idea of change and inter- change of parts is the saving grace of this ensemble business. If one had to have a coat, a hat and shoes, and all the minor acces- sories for every separate costume, the average women--and there are more in this group than any other --would be facing an impossible problem. A nice taste in fabrics and colors will suggest combina- tions of both that will prove an economy, rather than an expense, We have made mention of the Introduction of colored footwear that broadens the range which used to consist of brown, black, white and gray. There was a time when it seemed to be a fundamental principle to wear black, but with the new colors black is, not Infre- quently, a glaring note. Nothing that attracts the eye and holds it, causing one to lose sight of the general effect, is good. It is the whole, not the parts, that is im- portant, There comes to us the somewhat surprising knowledge that one sum- mer feature may be retained--the large hat. It has been a lovely thing, this passing season, and has seemed to fit in as never before. And there is a reason for this--the silhouette is changing, and whether one realizes it or not, the lines that the figure takes effect what we wear on our heads, for there must be a nice balance to make harmony of Mue. The Skirt And The Hat "GOOD - EYL!" -- /f Zi Or BARB FL SL om dency to begin its fulness below | the nips and to really flare, ealls | for something so balance it, and | that something must be the hat. | Bo the wide brim must be a pos-! sibility for her who finds it at-| tractive, and for those who do not, | there must be a medium brim. The small hat belongs to the, straight up-and-down line, except LOIN I72¢ HE strictly tailored woman, now the unusual rather than the usual type, has ever found relaxation from severity in her Our Sot CGoervncrd special attention to the oRdertses that are, with the omesi. A» foundation of the costume [Ime the most tallored garmesd, Nd when the wearer cannot find be- | negligees, even in the quality amd! there are many wb, bes its Lax comingness in width of brim. So the summer of 1928 has been | notable for harmony, expressed in the principle of the ensemble, for the apparent establishment of the wide-brimmed hat; for the intro- duction of colored footwear to make the ensemble more perfect, and for qualities, of femininity luxury and general beauty, {that made possible workmanship of her lin erie. These | garments have been the exceptions | the rule of] mannish lines and finish, although correct tailored apparel is notable! for its excellent finish and its fm-| portant, though unobtrusive stten- | tion to detail. { The gradual growth of the en- | semble pris ciple has resulted in WHAT SUMMER TEACHES US A wide hemline, showing a ten- ALL always reaps a harvest of ¥ information, grown during the summer months, for while clothes are of the utmost impor- tance, good grooming is imperative. The sun and wind, with their tan- ning and burning properties, and the lake, sea or bathing pool, with their ruthless effect upon hair, turn our attention, whether or mo, to the care of skin and our crowning glory, that is not, always, a genuine satisfaction. Train travel, as well as motor tripping. out-of-dcor sports, and all of the unusual things that summer vacations bring, present problems, and the individual must solve them. In the olden days the woman who burned, but tanned only after pro- longed exposure to the weather, was satisfied with an application of cold cream, pothing else. Today the cream is an after thought and the first procedure fis a healing lotion of a mild type. The use of cold cream in a gen- eral way is misuse. It lubricates, but it does not do many of the things we think it does. Cleansing creagns are cxcellent, especially for the woman who must keep clean, but cannot use water oftener than once a day. The problem of short or long hair is still unsolved for many. Patient, tedious months of growing out the hair until there is a meat little roll, or curls in the back of the neck. is all undone when warn' weather comes--this has been| proven. Bathing and golfing and | tennis all prove an ald to the busi- | ness of the barber, who is told to | "Cut it off short!" and so undo the long months of struggling with! unruly ends. i Perhaps the best answer to the question of length of hair is the] broad omne--do as you please in order that your coiffure may be in-| dividually becoming. If you are smart with short hair, wear it so; if long hair becomes you best, wear it long. But not too long! And ft! is generally conceded that the mid- | dle aged woman with a well-kept | "bob" looks years younger than | she would with long bair. Youth has tim » experiment. inizing touch, and wher EoOney for jncidentals 1s usMmited tho baste principle is carried on inte the Mogerie thet is the Br oenr sideration of the weli-groomed woman. Color is impeortans The housewife will And practical virtue in simple, tailored things for wear under her house frocks. If she is more than usually #t- tentive to the small things, so called, she will go in for tubable, sturdy pleoces of Philippine em- broidery, for they are always sure to give the utmost in satisfaction. And beyond the fact that they launder beautifully, they have ex- cellent qualities. They belong to the house dress. After this group has been con- sidered, the rest is as intricately beautiful, luxurious and feminine as your pocket-book will permit. It is considered smart o match one's lingerie to one's frock, in so far as it is possible and practical. Once this idea has been started, it is comparatively easy to carry out, for the keynote to the harmony is color, and there are matching and harmonizing eoelors galore from which te choose. In. one respeet the idea of the = ensemble should he considered, the pleces should go In 'sets'. There is nothing that gives one the su- premely well-dressed feeling that results from a complete correlation of parts from chemise to the last small detail of kerchief or bag. And a wide range of materials, as well as colors, 1s found an aid to choice, whether one be free to buy, regardless of price, or find economy necessary. Garments are simple, but the simplicity is of the same type that | them only to the extent they effect | a plain garment, Materials range frem the voiles and rayon weaves to chiffon, ninon and Georgette, with some use of supple satin. One must mention glove silk, always friendly, and the rayon garments that imitate them so successfully and are so much less expensive, if properly cared for. Rayon is being constantly im- proved, and it is very probable that in the near future this fabric, with its allies, will be, not only a staple, but a dependable one. The entire range of pastels ap- pear, and there are adorable printed fabrics, in which some one color is more pronounced than the others. One will not choose flesh for her green outfit, but a pastel green, and so on through the color scheme, Lace is the approved we find in frocks--Iit possesses sophistication, Details of hand | work supply that quality, and the | clever needle-woman, securing gar- ments of good quality and excel. lent lines, can add dollars to thelr| value with bits of lace and fine] stitchery. To her prices are not prohibitive, for she need consider Ba ~~ trimming, appliqued flatly, so that there is little, if any bulk. Feather stitching, pin tucks, hemstitching and all these methods are em- ployed to give the luxury touch. Negligees, keeping to slender lines, or introducing fulness, after the manner of frocks, show subtle elaborations, making use of hand- PP PNP NPD NS work and color effects to achieve the desired results, Materials, soft, clinging, luxurious, contribute much, and tne use of two colors and two surfaces of the same fabric is a favorite method of elaboration. Later the velvets, especially the transparent weaves, will be generally featured, Pajamas, both for night wear and as lounging garments, hold their popularity, and are, naturals ly, effected by the luxury-feminine trend. The materials for the for- mer group consist of pongee, wash» able silks, washable satin, and the cotton and rayon weaves, Brocade is found in the lounging and beach suits, and there are many of the Oriental themes offered for wear when the opportunity makes them possible, Mention should be made of the rapid development of the modern~ istic motif in trimming. Deep points and angles, irregular in out. line, cubes, blocks and other geometric designs are applied, not only to negligees, but to lingerie, and the use of color, in connection with this type of design, is notable, Modernistic elaboration will bear watching, for, If applied with re- straint, it is both smart and ef- fective, THE NEW FALL FABRics VERY new season brings new | weaves and new presentations of the old, Since the first] thing that must be considered | when a new mode makes its ap- pearance is the material founda- | tion, 'we ean assume that the! weawars and dyers have now com- | pleted their work, so far fall | and winter are concerned, From the variety that they offer we shall choose some and leave some, but certaln ones will remain staples, as! they have ever been. | Stik, entin, yslvet and crepe--the | l»xury quarts/te--we may confi-| dently sspert. But there will be preferred weaves of them all, and | not any orspe at all will do. Nor | will they be used the same as they | have bees before. This lends in-' teres to ® features of the new | fashions that mighs, otherwise, bei given only easuad thought. And | the color card will pet ie the sume at all, thowe? » will bs g*eAa that | wil] difter. The coming of tall will bsing oot the new woolems, and the 1Mght welgh® wool crepes, kashas, broad- oloth, basket weaves, and wool velvets will be moss important. Of course jersey, tweed and flannel will appear 18 sporis toga, anéd the cashmere weaves wild receive con- sideration. But whatever the ap- proved wmeves, it will be lmpesra- tive that they remain MNght of welght for fabric manipulation is more important than ever. | Some of the woolens ase both sreer and light weight and ere used fos dress-up models. Thew Is more of welght to sports wools, but $a #2 oft and usable, just the mss We oa longer look kindly os cll for any purpose, eves XK. wwwgC Dressy coatings have . 'metsous Sowk while the twesén a approved for sports coats. Whi emsendie ocontiruing its influenos, will meus: the ened & pivotal garment Pos daytime Arms, thoy la Sow formal daytime dress, there will be two materials of importapce--vel- vet and satin. The two will be uasd in combination, and when fer is made a trimming. the result will be the height of luxury. The vel- vet that is most important is of the transparent type, and fondness | is shown for both inted and plain weaves. We are coming to demand fabrics of the luxury type wherever | they are possible. ! Formal afternoon ensembles will tnciude @wtal lame in the fabric | group, and it combines most effect- | ively with yelvet. A velvet coat! worn with a frock of velvet, satin, | or velvet and Jame, will be the! most popular ensemble, if predic-! tions ere at all true. Lace is an- other afternoon material of im-| portance, and many of the velvet frocks, with deep yokes or vestees as | the others. { how the Influence of these three of chiffon both back and front, will wear lace collars or berthas. Evening will stress three types of material in as many types of frocks. There will be the new bouffant frocks which will use satin, taffeta, moire and fabrics that have a degree of stiffness. There will be lace gowns and chif- fon, tulle and net models. And there will be the always luxurious evening dress of velvet, sure to ap- pear in some charming models when the formal season opens, Satin will find a place in the draped and the bouffant modes. We may approach the color problem In a new way, for they tell us that three of the primaries are to tinge all the shades, and these three are yellow, blue and red. Of course, it will be possible to find some shade or shades of our favorite color, but some few will be favored of fashion above It is interesting to see colors works out In the various color groups Summer brought brighter blues, as middy or sailor, instead of navy. Fall will see sven brighter tones, and we may mxpect tones kin to royal, sapphim king's blue, and | the flower tones. Blue will effect | Breen, so that there will be bluish greens, and we can combine the two, When we come into the pastels, as orchid and pink, then the former is deepened to a purple tone, and the latter to a rose-red, rather than a rose-pink, Of late we seem to have forgot- ten brown, but evidently it has been remembéred by the dyers and they have been experimenting with it, So daytime and sports frocks are being shown in some wonderful shades of the color, and it |s noticed that they are slightly tinged with red. The beiges, first cousins of the browns, appear in some | lovely shades, and they lead us, { logically, to a discussion of the | neutrals. | Gray, beige, white and black are {the refuge of the woman who | would seek a color that will fit into several costumes perfectly, A color that became popular with the | last season, called grege. is con- | tinued. It is a neutral gray | touched with beige, and fits into the scheme at times when neither | gray or beige Is particularly appro- | priate, though they may not be inharmonjous. Black and white in combination is stressed. THE PICTURES (1) The white coat bas pr favorite, it enough of warmth carly fall. to warrant its use through the This model has several typical summer character- istics, straight lines, fur cufts, but no fur at the neckline. The patch pockets add a touch of swagger smartness, (2) Even the simplest house coat is touched with elegance. Out in the approved straight line, snd collared with satin in a deoper shade than the satin of the coat, it applies the two materials in a checkerboard design to the skirt and sleeves of the garment, bh Tiel the simplicity of the model is not disturbed. (8) Designers reach out and teantify the costume slip. It is no straight ken ig) bmger a thing of St