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DAILY TIMES ¥ The HAY of SASSO -- -- mp ---- --- be Whok Ly /lrovcts i New Developments Keep One Interestea in the Smart T, ings of Fashion -- Every Need is Met in a Score of Ways. HE approach of summer al- ways develops interest in the wardrobe as an entity, for it is the season of week-ending, which means that there must be & completeness of content. Town activities are very different from those of the country or shore, and Journeys, no matter how short thelr duration, make demands upon one's stock in trade. Definite rules of appropriateness make a selection necessary; variety makes it easy, It is rather interesting to watch the review of types, as the hours of the day pass by. If one senses an undercurrent, flowing swiftly toward change, all the better; changes are interesting. Even if you are content with fashion as it appears at the moment, you will not be averse to a new variety when fall presages winter. Already colors, fabrics and ideas for their use are apparent in the salons of the couturieres, What are the 'fashionables" wearing at the moment, apd how do they meet the demands of the various activities that claim them from morning until midnight? The answer is a colorful, interesting one, for summer frocks and frills are most enticing. Even the simpler models, designed for travel, sports, the shopping trip in town, are touched with the beauty that the decided trend toward the for- mal assures. Concerning These "Simpler" Things They tell us that sunburned arms are to be fashionable, and that the sleeveless "tennis" dress ifs to be the main factor, apart from bathing apparel, in the achievement of this end. The spectator sportswoman, as well as the active participant in games, will wear it, and it will be supple- mented with jackets and coats of various sorts! Linen, pique, flat crepe and the rough silks will be the favored materials. If you favor the knitted sports togs that are so Important a fash- fon, be wary of a careless choice, for color, cut and line must be authentic. There are two and three-plece suits, two-sweater suits ence, when it comes to the color of the coat, is black, There are some delightful one and two-piece frocks of Rajah, Shantung and Chinese damask, and they will find representation in the wardrobe as all-occasion frocks--yet--the occasion may not be formal, Flannel makes a smart coat for wear with a summer frock, and we see it over Georgette, the rough silks and crepe. Transpar- ent velvet is an excellent choice, and practically all of these summer ensemble coats are unlined, The jumper dress is the sports dress par excellence, and the skirt is box-pleated, The circular skirt is seen more often in afternoon and evening models than in the simpler types. Box jackets are offered, and they seem to have usurped the place of the cardigan, so long a feature of sports fash- lons. The long coat is also "in," after a period of variation between the three-quarters and seven- eighths length garment, Afternoon Brings Out Formality Models with an involved styling are featured in the afternoon, and one of the things that intrigues us most is the fact that the skirt Is very wide, but begins that width well below the hipline. The snug hipline is a feature of evening frocks, as well, and it is in these models that we see real assurance that the longer skirt is not merely on the way, but here. Evening dresses are, invariably, long In back, Before any further cont 1 skirt, but it does not detract from the vertical line, Coats are also straight, It is when evening comes that we see the circular and bouf- fant skirt that frankly admits that it possesses width, It is an undeniable fact that fashion is a creature of many moods, all of them authentic. This increases, rather than lessens, your responsibility, for it means that some one, thing will always prove more becoming to you than any of the others, Yours is the privilege of deciding your own version of a type, and there is no one to say you nay. But it must be the best type for you, otherwise you will have failed. The Basis Of Smartness Appropriateness to the individual and to the occasion, as well as to the season---that is the basis of clothes smartness. The frock you adore, If it Is not the right color, or the right type, must be ignored, In spite of all the varied occasions, demanding, each one of them, the right thing for its purpose, there are clever ensemble arrangements that will effect a compromise. In this P i a jes play their part. Whatever the occasion and whatever the type, it will be ruled by the ensemble idea, do not forget that! In sports, on the street, at tion of evening models, it is well to fix the fact firmly in mind that the silhouette for daytime wear is straight, but in appearance only. There is a concealed fulness in the bridge, tea or the matinee, or in attendance on the most formal dinner and dance, the frock, wrap, hat, shoes and all the minor costume details will combine to make unity. Let's Hope It Rains! N spite of the prevalence of rainy day apparel that makes an umbrella quite unnecessary, excuses will be found for this accessory if for' no other reason than its smartness. Very gay fit will be, and a distinct addition dots, the smartest of all, are ap- plied in various ways, covering the whole top or wandering irregularly over the silk. The ombre shades of popular colors are seen, and they run from the faintest tint to the 4 st. Stripes are favored, to any costume that it plet. for attention has been directed both covers and handles with ex- tremely satisfactory results. Spring- time seems to have effected this very necessary costume detail. If you are still a bit conservative about your "rain stick," then yom will choose a one or two-toned cover with a fancy bandle. Two tones of green or blue or brown make 8 smart umbrella, and these are the most popular colors, even especially when a border is the choice, HE world is full of 8 number of things," when it comes to good | is, sometimes, a handbag, again a | scarf, or some other important costume detail planned with that {end in view. Window displays attract our no- tice with the flash of reds, blues and green. It is quite possible to find such a display that features not a single pair of the usual black shoes. And leather may be wholly missing from the fabric cast, al- though colored kidskin fis a fav- orite material. It fis used as a trimming, and makes a mice con- trast with the woven fabrics that are so generously featured. It is the summer leather. > Sllks, crepe de chine, and several novelty fabrics bearing clever trade | names are important in the foot- | wear mode. They are patterned, the fabrics, and were, apparently, '| inspired by the vogue for prints, although many of them take on LINKING HEADWEAR == === WITH FOOTWEAR the likeness of brocades. Linen is quite as smart for shoes as it is for the tennis frock, and the former are accessory to the latter. White linen Oxfords are trimmed with colored kid---red, blue, green. The felt hat, the leather hand- bag and the leather shoe, all re- main classics. They exist, as they always have, because they are im- portant in a practical way, but summer accessories demand and get the right to be frivolous, even to the point of fragility. Color is not confined to dress or evening shoes, it appears in the classic pump or Oxford, designed for wear with the frivolous summer frock, of which there are so mahy. As a result of this flair for color and design, some beautiful ensem- bles are being offered, made up of hat, footwear and bag of the same material, or 2a hat trimmed with the fabric of the other two, Bengalin silk makes such a set, its pattern a strong orange and blue against a green background. The bag is of the envelope type, and the the shoes are a high-heeled strapped model cut very low on the sides and high in back. There are linen bags to link linen shoes with the linen hat, there are bags of quilted crepe in the same shade as the shoes, and sometimes the crepe bag has a motif of printed silk or some other fabric, which matches the material of the shoes. Scarfs and sunshades are planned to match the mew footwear, especially when fit is in a patterned material. Kerchiefs are another link in the chain, as are the flowers of print. The art of knitting makes it pos- sible for a sweater or a jumper to wear its own trimming in its pat- tern. Some of the new models have a bow knit into the sweater at the point of the V-meck, but newer than this is the knit-in sash with ends that do really tie. ye The Luxury of Travel NCREASED facilities in travel have made the tourist an insti- tution, and the result is seen in any luggage shop, Even if one | hus no desire to enjoy the pleas- ures of places apart from home a visit to such a store will plant the germ of restlessness. Just as we rely upon the ensemble in our wardrobe, so will we come to rely upon the luggage ensemble that has taken the place of the many separate, and absolutely unrelated, pieces. These ensembles come in two, three, even four pleces, and are designed to take good care of one's belongings on every type of a trip. Upon the distance traveled and the duration of the stay de- pends the number of pleces-- sometimes one piece becomes two, when a tray is removed, if the tray holds toilet necessities and folds compactly into an overnight case, thus leaving - the needed bit of space free for an extra frock or coat, We thought the peak of con- venience was reached when the wardrobe trunk was invented, but it was merely the beginning, and now the trunk is a last resort, espe- cially in foreign travel. We have in its place the wardrobe suitcase and the wardrobe hat box, the lat- ter used for other pleces of ap- parel quite frankly. Folding hang- ers are part of the equipment of these wardrobe pieces, and it is amazing what they will accommeo- date, For some trips the wardrobe suitcase with its folding tray of toilet things is adequate. When another plece must be added there is the wardrobe hat box that will take care of all the headwear and footwear necessary for the stay, and still have room for extras. If even these two pleces are not enough, then there is the small trunk that is not large enough to be a bother, for a porter can easily carry it on his shoulders. A trunk of this sort seems hards- ly more than a large bag, and it is covered in the same leather of which the other pieces are made, (Buffalo hide, by the way, is the smartest luggage leather at the moment,) It is the most con- venient trunk imaginable, this lit- tle affair, for the woman contem= plating a summer over seas, and when it is combined with a suit and hat case, it meets every wards= robe need of a really extended trip, The question of a motor trunk is always in order, these days of trekking across the country in an automobile. Special attention is given to the model that straps on behind, or fits neatly onto the runs ning board, The Interior of these trunks, which are made of a light weight leather or of duck, Is so arranged that two traveling to=- gether may each have a half to herself. Or they are fitted up with separate compartments for the various articles, This demand for smart luggage, and for pleces that are fitted to the individual need, has brought into being the custom tailor for luggage, This means that the leather, shape and color can be pre-determined, and the interior can be fitted out in any way that appeals to the purchaser. Special attention is given to luggage for men, separating it en= tirely from that designed for women, There is room for the re- quired number of suits and for the type of small things that are ime perative, Builders of men's luggage recognize the need of transporting dress clothes safely, as well as play togs. And there is even a specially designed compartment for dress shirts and the appurtenances thereof. Special week-end cases have been devised for both men and women, and they usually accom- modate all that will be needed on the average trip, For the golfer there is a separate bag, designed with a zipper fastening, that will accommodate an extra garment or two, if needed. It should be men=- tioned that luggage is much lighter in weight than it used to be, though quite as sturdy of construction, One luxury piece of luggage is a shoe wardrobe planned with drawers that will hold, each one, a pair of shoes. There is a pocket in each drawer for the hosiery that matches the shoes, and a careful indexing is possible on a small white card provided for the purpose. The drawers may be removed, the extra space used for any purpose the owner moy de- sire. 3 Another innovation is the new combination lock that is making the key-ring unnecessary One has only to remember what the combination is, as is the case with a safe. The entire ensemble may open to the same combination. case, THE PICTURES (1) The all-purpose suit of novelty wool is 8 necessity, instantly impressed by the collarless jacket that has stolen its smartness from the sweater, and the knitted blouse that trims Fans One is The wide berths scalloped. There (3) A viyid expression satin surfaced fabric in and isa of a 4] of the tailieur, (2) The organdy frock goes out of a summer's evening. This particular model, in a rose colored print, has a wide skirt composed of rufiles fitted to each other with a double piping. the hemline of the ankle-length skirt are huge, trailing bow of ribbon. the ensemble bathing bold pattern is combined with plain 2 4 costume. A print, bordered satin. The app d 1928 slip of the latter, and a printed coat taking the form of a h is effected--a straight plain material; shorts of the bands and pockets. (4) An unusual interpretation of the summer costume suit, material is a patterned wool in ombre shadings, and the straight line frock carries its side pleats above the normal waistline. very difierent, convertible neckline is a feature, The coat, straight of line, has » Tuxedo collar. (5) It could quite as well have been cotton or even rayon. But its preference was for tub silk, one of sumumer's practical fabrics. ola ristics. A (8) Accessories may determine the purpose of this frock. Or a slip may tell the hour of the day and the occasion. A light- hued slip, footwear, hosiery and a bat with formal inclinations, will say that it's afternoon. A dark slip and accessories of a less formal sort will say otherwise. : (7) Of picturesque simplicity, this summer evening wrap. not the warmth, but the idea of the thing, that's important, Yet it afiords the requisite protection and is smartly unusual, cape, fi d with an ornamental it's clasp. Transparent velvet is the fabric.