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" In This Respect Fashion is Most Consid-| erate -- Materials Play a Promi- nent Part in the Result. ROBABLY there is no greater problem presented to the woman who aspires to smarts ness than the one that has te do with keeping cool during the really warm weather, and at the same time preserving smartness, To present, always and under all circumstances, an unruffled appear- ance, is something infinitely desir- able, even though the process re- quires a deal of careful .thought and preparation, as it surely does. There is no denying the fact that general rules of living have much to do with the business of feeling and looking cool. Heavy foods and overweight, not necessary at any time of the year, are preventives of summer comfort, There is no better time of the year to take off the 'too solid flesh" than the sea- son when fruits and vegetables offer a diet low in calories and high in health-assuring properties. Perhaps fashion is more an ap- pearance of coolness than anything else, but this is not wholly so, and even the most cynical person will admit that the briefness of some of our garments is a happy char- pcteristic when the thermometer approaches the hundred mark. This fact, added to the sheer, light weight fabrics that are a neces- sary fundamental In the rather complicated models offered, as- sures the wearer a maximum of comfort. Color And Fabric Contribute In hot countries white is the ac- cepted color for practical purposes, and nothing is considered its equal. Its value lies in the function of light and heat rays, and its worth bas been conclusively proven. The woman who wears white well-- some find it, undoubtedly, most unbecoming--and can keep it fresh on all occasions, can make no bet- ter choice, for the all-white cos- tume is always in keeping with any occasion, formal or otherwise. When white is not possible there are the pastels, the fainter tints preferred, and there are primted materials that use several colors, or several shades effectively, taking pothing from appearance or feeling of coolness. One can follow the day through with the fabrics that are smart, finding that the major portion of those that are available will fall into the general class of sheer, or porous weaves. Morning calls for the simple frock of silk, cotton or linen, as do the active sports of the season. We find that the voiles, lawns, lightweight silks and handkerchief linens are available, along with the heavier cottons and the rough- purfaced silks, or the linens. The silk known as "China" is the coolest in its class, and ma- terials as sheer as voile or lawn or muslin take precedence in the cot- tons. The Type Of Frock Is Important The new season has brought us the sleeveless, and some few in- terpretations of the short-sleeved frock. There is nothing that ap- proaches the sleeveless dress for coolness, and when it is becoming ~which it is not, if the upper arm is heavy--then it is the solution of the hot geather morning frock. A skirt not too long, and a comforta- ble neck, along with the absepce | of sleeves, will make life seem well worth the living, When afternoon demands for- mality, 'there are the chiffons, volles, Georgettes and muslins, the latter becoming important in both afternoon and evening fashions, although fall will see their disap- pearance, no doubt, There are oc- casions when the sleeveless dress will be worn, even to a formal affair, but sleeves are the general rule. The fabric of which they are made is extremely light, and that means that they are not, really, a trial, » One may not forget that there | are other materials, all important in the summer mode, and, all of them, with more "body". They meet the need of many occasions that call for something less light | and airy, and assure the impera-| tive variety. Some women, for- | tunate folk, do mot feel the heat at all, and can, therefore, choose from either group. For them the satins, novelty cottons and coarser linens that are so very effective, Wraps Consider The Scason If there was ever a time when one coat would do for every sum- mer purpose, we do not remember it. The suit coat, that did good service through the. spring season, still has its uses. But it must be supplemented by coats of lighter weight materials, unlined in many instances, and affording necessary protection without suggesting either spring or fall weather. They are not difficult to make, if one does not attempt something out of the ordinary. { This means that there can be | jackets where they are necessary; a silk coat for occasions that de- mand the formal wrap, and a white coat, or one of a light shade for other occasions. The influence of the - ensemble is seen in the de- mand for several coats of widely varying types, and since the ma- terial is not a too large item, there can be models enough in even the simplest sort of a wardrobe. At least a jacket and a coat of silk! Evening fashions, with their lower necklines, the absence of sleeves and a preference for laces, chiffons, nets and organdy, are the | coolest of all. Then, too, a fan is an expected accessory! mere wisps of fabric, and there is neath the frock--this a character- istic of daytime dress, as well. It heavier, is interesting to note the part that accessories play in the general | scheme. Again The Ensemble Influence The idea of matching things, to Wraps are | need of a minimum of lingerie be- | fit them into & general scheme, ef- IN ZUMMED Oy Bomoame FFiniscomw .~ footwear models, cut so low that the shoe is 'merely a sole and some straps of material. Hosiery is as sheer as it can be and hold to- gether. And fashion permits silks and cotton and linens and woven straw sandals, all sure to possess elements of comfort that the leath- ers do not. Fu Are Imp | If you would be smart and well- | groomed, as well as comfortable, look well to your corset and lingerie. There are some quite | wonderful corset: models for the | woman who is large and may not | yield to the lure of the girdle and | brassiere sets that are so intrigu- | ing. If you are slender, investigate A corset need not be the latter. an instrument of torture, if prop- 22 hed Color wo Con 0 me T is comparatively easy to ex-|navy blue is considered standard. plain the ability of color to | Spring saw the middy and sailor create effects, on the other hand, | shades, lighter than navy, but cer- continue its present popularity for | both daytime and evening, the new vogue of using a dark powder on the face and rouging the lips a brilliant red to match the frock, one of the interesting fashions that summer has brought us. A new ruby shade is very lovely, one can fmagine it in a soft, silk velvet. Brown seems to be an accepted sports color, or else it is used in the tailored group. On the other hand, beige is important even In formal evening models, some de- signers showing a ence for it to the comparative ex- clusion of other colors. Gray is important in both the formal and the informal mode, especially im- portant in trimming furs, no mat- AAA ecided prefer- | BEACH WEAR er 4 SP nip ---- ter what the color of the coat. | There will be purples for those who | can wear them, and this color will be seen in evening wear. This is quite as far as one dares gd, at present, There will be many new shades, and no one can say exactly which ones will meet the public need or take the fancy of the eritical, There will be new ways of introducing color, but probably there will be nothing smarter than the use of shades of a single color, sometimes as many as flye being brought into the scheme. Not always in compose effect, however. They are drawing lines with colors, these clever designers. Noth- ing does it quite as skilfully or | with as little effort. A neckline, | walstline or hemline can be em- | phasized with so 'slender a thing | as a line of soutache brald, and be the better for it. Blouses, even skirts, are cut into hits with band- HE beaches, throughout the length and breadth of our land, are picturesquely inter- esting' through the summer months. It is holiday time, and a carefree spirit adds the personal touch to brilllant sunlight, the | sparkling sea and colorful sands, To the edge of the rippling waters come those who swim and those who bathe, the latter quite as much at home on the shore as In the sea. Fashion takes note of all this. Beach wear is smart. It has in- dividuality, because into it go many materials, many colors and many | clever trimming ideas. The unusual |is preferable to the usual in an outdoor setting, and combinations of colors are effective in the sun- | shine that would not do at all in | the shade. All this, combined with | accessories with the same feeling, | makes the scene at the shore an | invigorating and delightful one. | Two distinct types exist, as | against a possible three, some years ago. Study has effected a combination of the true beach suit, intended for dry bathing only, with the suit that was designed for sea bathing, but not for active swim- ming. There remains the compro- mise and the regulation swimming suit that is practical first and smart afterwards. But the latter char- acteristic is quite as prominent as the first. ISIN | The swimming sult.is made of | Jersey in a fine weave, and may | take one of two forms. It may be one-piece or two, the latter made { up of shirt and shorts, allowing | unlimited possibilities of combina- | tion In color and design. At times | the shirt is darker, again it is lighter, than the shorts, and the | belt that connects the two is In keeping with the color arrange- | ment. Suits all in one color are extremely rare. The opposite is true when the suit is one-piece, for the back- ground is frequently used to make designs woven Into the suit, or em- broidered upon it, more effective, and is, usually, dark. Many effect the suit in solid color, absolutely unbroken, save for a narrow belt in color, perhaps. Suits that display no color, ex- one piece, but twn-plece | print, | ings and inserts of another shade, | and sometimes the contrast is very | slight indeed. But it has its effect, There are some clever presentas tions of what we know as the | ombre effect, a subtle blending of | colors, done in such a gradual manner that we do not realize how great a distance has been traveled until, we compare the first with the last. There is nothing smarter in all the book of color combination than the use of white-to-black through intermediate shades of gray. White, black or gray accesw sories are possible. DID YOU KNOW-- HAT you must match youy Commer bag to your summep shoes, if you would be smart? This alliance is an important fashe fon of the moment and is exemplie filed by ensembles of printed linen, of white angora cloth," of whitd pongee and red leather, of all sorty of fine fabrics! THAT it is considered immeass urably chic to match one's pers fume to one's shoulder flower of bhoutonrilere? The tailored gare denia, the lovely violet, the rose, geranium, whatever your choice, will have its true fragrance. If it'g a wee bouquet, then the perfume is a bouquet, cf ASON cept in accessories, may be word with a glddy beach coat of the blazer type or rather like a trench coat, When the blazer is the choice, one of the stripes is in the same tone as the suit, while others carry out the colors In the details. A trench coat of linen crash, decided= ly colorful, is a smart possibility-- there will be an expression of the color of the suit itself somewhers in the design. Cretonnes make smart coats, and oftentimes when the slip of a beach suit is of printed silk, the cape or coat is in a solid color, the latter monogrammed in the colors of the Belts, bandeaus, kerchiefs, wraps of all sorts, footwear, sun umbrellas, beach pillows and bathing bags, as well as many curious novelties are to be had, and in a variety that assures the | completion of a perfect ensemble. THE PICTURES (1) A kerchief dress of flat crepe in two tones of a color. There is no smarter sports idea in all fashion than the use of a kerchief duplicating the colors of the frock. Adel. This model is are popular, imi (2) Ope The h suit. the kerchief matching the skirt. may be practical and comfortable, yet very smart. lasti i may not be hampered with skirts, so designers have used all their skill upon the one-piece bathing it has a rival in the two-piece, shirt-and-shorts outfit, come into the mode in recent seasons. (3) The friendly polka dot and a smart bathing tunic. The it is possible to change the en- tire meaning of the title by placing a question mark after it, and we are interested jin general informa- tion concerning both. ing plays a greater part in our wardrobe than the color card and our choice from its constantly growing list. We will answer the question "What color will do?" first, For noth-| tain models in rep and satin, plainly fall models, go back to navy. And they're showing eve- | ning frocks in navy---of the ultra- Vainy, cire and lacquered satins, {lace and chiffon. There are other | blues, but none with the immediate importance of the one that is the oldest and the smartest. Black, is standard. There are some very intriguing satin The slip, of some material that will stand wetting, is the preferred beach suit, completed, in nearly every Instance, with shorts of matching or contrasting fabric. This does not mean that a uniform has been adopted, for so wide is the range of models that variety is assured. Every possible material Js used, and the pattern and color range is amazing, also the use of too, approved type of suit for the woman who may swim a little, It Is worn over shorts Accessories are fects one's comfort, for even the | erly chosen and correctly fitted, "feel" of a thing may add or de- | tract from one's comfort. With | linen extremely popular in the frock mode, we find it made imto shoes, hats and handbags, as well | as parasols. The same is true of pique, of the printed silks, of prac- The fabrics of summer under- things are sheer and delightful, the cotton volles most desirable for the purpose. form fitting, without being snug, and make a perfect foundation tor | | the summer frock. Look well to| In a general way the reply is-- | models being shown for daytime only the color that is smart, and, | wear, and there are satins for eve- of course, individually becoming, | ning as well, 2ithough taffeta, lace, which resolves it into a question of | tulle, velvet, Georgette and chiffon them which one shall the indi-| black coat bids fair to be as im- details which supply another my of individuality. Silks and satins are augmented | by the new man-made fabrics, and | { are combined in the designs. There They are brief and | what colors are newest, and from | share the limelight with them. The | one, two, three, even five colors | | vidual choose. What we have al- ready chosen is not to be consid- | portant, this coming winter, as it| are polka dots--large, small, round, | | is. this summer, but it will be | square and legal seal type: flow- |} tically any material that is work- | your diet, look well to your | able and will answer the purpose, "poundage." and select materials, | beginning with the tweeds. | colors, models and accessories that If an army is as good only as| will fit the double purpose of style its feet, then the woman of fashion {and comfort. Then summer will may well be as cool, only as her | hold no terror for youd no matter feet. We have the most surprising | what the temperature: i | lavishly fur-trimmed in white, | gray. beige or brown. 'There will be black and white. There will be some mew shades of green, which will be a featured color for both daytime and eve- ered. We are buying now with a thought of fall in mind, and would know what colors will be spon- sored in the new models that are due any time now---many have al- ready appeared. Colors come and go. hut always | ning werr Red will, one thinks. | ered, geometrical and modernistic |} patterns, and there is always some , | fundamental idea in. the color | | scheme that is followed in the ac- cessories that are quite as impor- | tant as the suit itself. They make, or ruin it. i