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Individuality Character. izes theNewest Sports Attire -- New Ideas ArelIncorporated Into the Latest Models, HE up-to-the-minute fashion play is now being staged at the smart resorts, rather than in town. All the world adopts & wsportive mood whenever it is possible, and the result is a most interesting study in the manner of the mode that dresses it. Crowded from a place In afternoon occa- sions, the late models in sportswear concentrate on their own place in fashion life, and attain, as a result, an almost aggressive individuality, Whether one vacations at length, or goes for week-end trips Into the country or to the shore, there must be many of the seemingly simple little sports ensembles in her ward- robe. The use of the word "seem- ingly" is well-advised, for the new elegance has Inspired even the cot- ton frock with a hard-to-define sophistication. This end Is attained by means of variety, permitting many combinations. of the funda. mentals, This means a practically unlim- ited opportunity for self-expres- sion, which is the first requisite of smartness. Whatever you do, whether you play golf or tennis, ride or swim, travel by land or sea, you are sure to need apparel that has been created with a special end in view, with a thorough knowl- edge of the special end and its requirements. This need Is re- sponsible for the varied and Inter- esting displays in the smart sports shops. Covering A Wide Field The general mode includes in it many specialized modes, for we swim and ride and play on court or links, or we look on, all In- cluded fp active and spectator sports. Hence our wardrobes con- tain the necessary apparel for each activity, In the first group that we consider are the sports ensem- bles that find ready use through the day, yet are classéd as general, pather than specialized. Much smartness is theirs, In this group we find the en- semble of silk, the one of cotton, the one of linen. And, curiously enough, their purposes are identic- ally the same. Materials are all beautiful, and when silk is quite as inexpensive as cotton, linen as smart as silk, and cottop a hitherto undreamed of textile, one is per- mitted to choose according to her lking. And whatever her choice, it will add to its correctness, For that is the outstanding char- pecteristic of sports togs--smart- Materials, colors and lines, #ll coptribute. The models designed for active sports are made of fabrics that are washable, as linens, silks, piques and the novelty cottons. And they are, if the sport is golf, frequently knitted, for knitted gports fashions are one of most important factors in the they are appropriate to . Fhe Power Of The Ensemble There is a vogue for the sleeve- ( less frock, especially for the tennis It is worn with a jacket of some gort, in either a matching contrasting material and color, 2 Mghtweight lsle sweater. silk and erepe incline to he pastels. while linen the stronger Golf players like the ease and freedom of the knitted jumper, even when the skirt is of another material, as silk, crepe or flannel. There is an interesting variety in| both the colors and patterns of the knitted sweater, and they are knit in a variety of stitches, The threads are bouclette, silk, angora, kashmir, zephyr, lisle or rayon, the latter used with others for ts] giving the appearance of | comes to the sheen, threads of silk. If one's vacation includes riding, then the habit will be of linen, white or the natural shade, or, if one effects ranch life or the real country, it will gabardine, Accessories are in keeping with the spirit of the babit. There is a deal of 'middy, marine and sailor blue, in yachting suits, planned for the sea, but not always used there. Flannel, jersey and cheviot are the materials in favor. For General Sports Wear Fashion is even more generous with models that are not special- ized, just general. The bulk of the offerings are suitable for daytime wear at the country club or at the shore, if one is not attending some really formal occasion, as luncheon or bridge. And some of the offer- ings ase seen on the city streets, for they are smart, practical, and not 'wholly unsuited to the purpose of sh and h there- after. The ensemble may be made up be of tweed or| of frock and coat in three-quarters or full-length, of skirt, jacket and blouse, or it may be an assembled costume of separate coat and a frock in harmony. We have come to accept this latter idea as a basic one, for the average woman may have but a single coat of a kipd, and with it she must wear the sev- eral frocks of its type. This means extremely careful selection when it frocks themselves. There may be a coat of novelty tweed, for instance. With this one wears dresses quite different from those she associates with the coat of silk, which may, or may not be an afternoon model. There is no denying the popularity of the un- lined coat of black moire, taffeta, bengaline or satin, and there is no denying the fact that the type of frock worn with it determines the type that it becomes. Fabric is important. From Informal To Formal If the frock is a small printed silk, the figures colorful against a dark background, then it is in- formal, the resultant ensemble. If chiffon is the material or Georgette or a printed fabric that shows light colors and larger figures, formality results. And it will readily be seen that accessories will determine type, along with fabric and pat- tern. This is typical of the versa- tility of the coat mode for summer. During the warm weather we shall see a very great many silk, cotton and linen ensembles. 'There will be combinations of plain and printed, of two materials, of two, even several, colors. And there will be one and two-piece frocks, models that are sleeveless and models with sleeves, and jackets will vie with coats for popularity. The jacket ensemble Is, pre- eminently, a summer outfit, and rr | most often it includes a sleeveless | dress. Linen frocks in a solid color are worn with printed jackets or three- quarters length coats. The silk frock, which means crepe, as well as silk, Is complemented by a coat of silk or velveteen, even a coat of transparent velvet, Flannel is used for smart little blazer jackets that are appropriate with flannel skirts and blouses, or with a silk frock. The printed cotton ensemble, or the combination of plain with print, is ty, important, RAYON After months of experinientation, rayon was placed upon the fabric market. It was woven from a yarn made, of wood pulp, and was wholly a man-made material, but is was found necessary to educate the buying public to its us public to its use. This LU HEREVER our activities lead us, whether it be to the races, to the country, to the shore or to some town festivity, we are impressed by the undeniable fact that the whole world of fashion has changed. It is not as it was five, even two years ago. Boyish and mannish simplicity have given way to fem- inine elaboration, formality, in- tricacy of cut and line. This year's models are different from last, we are progressing. Obviously, there are contributing causes. And among them the most important is the element of luxury, which touches everything with the wand of its beauty. There is noth- ing, from kerchief and scarf, to completed ensemble, that is not characterized by it, and we admit its influence, even in the luggage with which we travel. The fashionable woman of today looks, first of all, to her coiffure. Her hair may be short, or it may be long, her own taste determines that, But It is not severe in its lines, whatever its length, for Jux- ury lurks in the soft waves that the new mode demands. Softness is a quality that makes for Juxury, and soft lines are imperative If the coiffure is to be a modern one, in keeping with the fabrics, lines and colors of fashion. The basis of the costume Is, ad- mittedly, the corset, and it {is fashioned of fine stuffs and takes on a delicate color as a forerunner of what is to follow. Lingerie, 7 YOU WOULD LL SMART E sure, first of all, that the coiffure you have chosen as your very own is the most becoming one possible, and that means the neckline as well as the frame that the hair makes for the face. Study it with and with- out a hat, and 'when you are sure that it cannot be improved upon, keep the hair in the best possible condition. Make one color, and be sure ft is the ope that suits you best, the foundation of your general ward- robe, choosing the fundamentals of that wardrobe in shades that are harmonious. Use this color as a 'background, when it comes to ae- cessorles, working on the old geometric principle--""Things equal to the same thing are equal to each other." ) Study materials, lines and trim- mings in relation to your figure. You will find that some textures are taboo, so far as you are con- cerned; that certain lines become you better than other lines, and that with the aid of skilfully ap- plied trimmings you may empha- size good points and conceal bad ones. [Lines include skirt length and necklines. Spend a few hours'before a triple mirror with the varied hat shapes at your command. The result will be a mew idea of what millinery type is your own. Study crowns-- their width and height, and study brims--their width, both front and back. Bear inp mind the fact that there is nothing that smartens a8 costume as decidedly as a b ing hat. Consider the shoe problem, and find out what it is that adds most to your comfort, for that is the first requisite of smartness--one capnot hobble and be smart! Then study lasts, remembering that heels and vamps play a part, not only in comfort, but in apparent size, Do not attempt the fatal process of wearing a shoe because it is a pretty shoe! Give strict attention to skirt length, to position of the waistline, to shoulder and neck treatments. Be sure that the accessories of the costume are in harmony with that costume, and that they are of the same type. Wear the just enough, but not too much, when it comes to costume jewelry, and be sure that it immediately loses itself in the general scheme. Learn the approved rules for caring for your clothes and their accessories. Shops will give you instruction, if you will study closet equipment, for it is becoming a highly specialized art to make your closet not merely a repository for your wardrobe, but a resting place --vclothes need a rest just as much as people! Two pairs of shoes, alternated, will outwear three, worn steadily, and the life of any footwear will be lengthened by proper care. Cleaning apd placing on shoe trees should follow every wearing. Heels, even slightly worn, are unsightly, and, what is more Important, un- healthy. Physical disorders have been traced to rup-dowp or turned heels. And it should be borne inp mind that the cleaner is your friend. The life of a garment can be pro- longed, and the wearer will be much more tidy, i frocks and coats go, regularly, to be dry- cleaned. Smartness may be de- fined as appropriateness, plus neat- pess, plus the individuality that is the result of careful and appro- priate selection. DID YOU KNOW-- HAT a pew, and very gay, slipper and bag ensemble is made of khaki cool silk, printed lore? It is available in several different color combinations and is trimmed with kidskin. So, too, are the begs, which mateh the slippers identically. THAT bracelets of marcasite and semi-precious stones are very smart? Flexible bands of sterling silver are finely studded with mar- casite and large stopes--chryso- prase, chalcedony or carnelian. Paris is choosing the color that matches the costume; they're in- comparable. THAT sports and tailored things are finding the hat of shiny straw, or the hat with a lustrous trim- ming. 8 really satisfactory acees- sory? (Cellophane fis used as a fabric and as a trimming, and there with this medium which may be braided. TXURY © i ance belies, with the tribal symbols of Indian, are Anpumersble effects achieved || even when its material is inexpens- | ive, appears a wisp of beauty. And | if one can afford it, there are pleces that are, truly, stuffs that dreams are made of. Dainty hand- | work, rich laces and clever ap-| pliques supply the added note of | luxury that is everywhere apparent, Materials grow in loveliness with every season. Sheer weaves, pos-| sessing strength that their appear- | work out the various designs in a perfect way. Even the velvet that used to be a winter material can now lend its richness to summer wardrobes, for it is sheer and not too heavy. Soft, | supple silks; rich, cobwebby laces; nets, fine linens and unique cottons, they are all luxurious in their own individual way. They take on colors riotous or demure as the occasion demands. And in the final effect achieved, they share honors with their designs and tints, As the fabric is, so is the gown, or the coat, as the case may be. By com-| bining fabrics and colors, a further proof of this quality is brought out, and fine handwork and clever trim- ming touches complete the general impression of exotic beauty that is| not, strange though it may seem, | at odds with simplicity. Luxury hides in the ruffles, frills, bows and draperies of the mode. Fussiness is not luxury, but the use that are of these details stops short of that | undesirable quality sharp line between plicity and a quality termed demureness. the Victorian, as it often does and good. mode the best and leave the worst. several modes. Shoes demand unusual materials, | and make much of fabrics as well' and draws a severe sim- that can be| s, well ! manages to | It does this with | THE (1) A busth frock ploy be | luff of feathers or If it hints of | it But it takes from that | | or lace. | eauzation was paced by improve- ment in quality and a widening of | its general use, until, at the | moment, it is a widely accepted | textile. In the underwear field, especially, it is a staple, and does | practically everything that glove | silk has ever done, doing it better, | since it does it cheaper. It is alse used in combination with silk and other yarns for underwear of eXZ« cellent quality, so that one is, to all appearances, wearing silk, yet not paying silk' prices. The new spring models are most attractive and present many novel features, ONTRIBUTES TO THE MODE as leathers. They like color, and are not at all averse to patterns in the ' fabrics of which they are made, Hosiery is cobweb sheer and silken. Footwear carries out the idea of the frock, not only in color and type, but in luxury of material, and the workmanship is as exquisite as skillful artisans can effect. It is a combination of many different things, is luxury! Headwear, featuring the large hat at the moment, uses felts as soft as silk, straws that are as supple as a fabric and is manpipu- lated by the hands of the designer into individual shapes. Trimmings provide a line of severity, or | smarten the theme with a brilliant ornament or a beautiful flower, the the cobwe threads of lace. Even the severe! tailored felt hat is lacking in any quality of harshness. Pearls, £0 long the reigning fav. orite in the costume jewelry field, have given way to sparkling pieces that feature rhinestones, crystals and brilliants, used, frequently, with the colored stones that link them to the costume. Glittering things have their place in the mode. They appear on frocks and hats and handbags and shoes, but must belong to the occasion and the hour of the day for which they are offered. Bathing attire demands luxury fabrics. The traveler goes in silks and satins and soft-textured wools, She carries luggage that is the ut- most in beauty and efficiency, and is made of fine leathers apd lined with cool, clean, cretonnes or with silks. The handbag is made of the fabric that goes with the costume, whether it be wool, silk Through the entire sym- phony of the completed costume runs the luxury theme, PICTURES shows a Dresden pattern in bu butterfly drape ending in long is made up of two deep pleatings of the pet. of the bodice is of the net. net and taffeta »iik. The silk tterfly colorings. The bow is 8 sash ends over the skirt, which The upper portion (2) A kpitted sports dress in the shades of green. This type of garment grows more popular a s the season advances, for it is practical beyond all others. The skirt, jumper and sleeves are edged with a shade of green that is deeper than the frock itself. The neckline is unusual, a notable feature. (8) A popular sersion of the hi sports sleeveless frock is made of white crepe de chine. The rather upusual blazer jacket combines red, black and yellow in the striped flannel. These suits b traps- dat parent velvet and printed linen rin many pi a (4) A semi-sports ensemble of novelty 'tan homespun. The collariess eflect. A brown sweater is belted which trims the neckline also. (5) The modernistic theme (8) Luxury fabrics make a gown of two distinct purposes. lace and chiffon in a pale maize hue fashion a formal negligee that is approved for the not Accessories in the same spirit wo formal dinner at home. make it even more adaptable, for the ensemble is only as good as its details. (7) Rayon and cotton wolle are cleverly combined. The frock itself. of a mew drawn-thread pattern of voile, is trimmed with a plain tone rayon. The latter is applied in the modernistic manner on both skint and bodice. the latter idea of the Eton jacket barely discernible at the waistline.