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She BLA of [ASS CY Vrwae sore | TLR STADE | LOTR RED, GY THE { CTR CCL Jve One Season Drifts Info Another, But Easter is a Special Fashion Day-- On That Day |. We Formally Greet Spring . NCE upon a time, and that time not so many years re- moved from the present, Easter day was "bonnet" day. The feminine heart was as near broken as a matter of slothes could bring it, if a new hat was not ready and waiting, wraped in its tissue covering, for the eventful morning. And great were the 'speculations concerning the weather, lest it be forbidding, depriving the fashion world of {ts greatly anticipated parade, And in those days there was an abrupt transition on that particular day from the velvets and felts of winter to summer straws. True, there might still be snow upon the ground, but the new hat must be of straw. Fashions, like the times, have changed, and Easjer, stlll a day of importance in way, is not the abrupt turning- point in the mode that it used to be; Instead, we stage a general fashion review. Not just a new hat, but a new suit, or a new frock and coat; new shoes and handbag and handwear, in fact everything that goes to make up a complete costume fis expected, Already we know which way the winds of fashion are blow- ing, and the annual fashion pa- rade, staged in every city and town The Philosophy of the Ensemble RACTICALLY anything new, if it be within reason, will meet with fashion favor. But in the case of the ensemble, which is the dominating factor in the new mode, that favor has been continued, out and beyond its orig- inal form. Each new season since its inception has marked an im- provement in its presentation, and whatever the occasion, some varia- tion of it is not only appropriate but imperative. There are reasons for this, as there are for practically every fashion that becomes, through con- tinued usage, a classic. The wom- an who builds herself a costume that is harmonious in all its parts is far "better dressed than the woman whose apparel is made up of parts that are unrelated, even though they may not be utterly inharmonious. Every detail should be related to every other detail. Another reason, and an important one, is the possibilities of economy that are offered by the ensemble. There are, however, exceptions to this, for unless details are so care- fully thought out that the parts of one ensemble can be used with another costume, one may find her- self swamped, financially. For it is a fundamental rule that acces- sories must "belong" in type, color and material to the costume they complement. 2 Not only does this theme rule the afternoon and evening ensemble, but it rules sports attire and the tailored things that belong to the morning hours. So small a thing #8 a flower in a buttonhole, or a in 8 pocket, cap undo a sartorial | | OMETHING NEW FOR SP 757 Hivh vn a WF RING CY CARECARA SEL TLO EAE E/TERPO/OEL/ES OY 7 THO~ ECE OPES OF GEORGETTE in the country, will be little more than a check-up on the general tendencies of a constantly chang- ing mode, Easter Will Mark Progress A comparison of the offerings for Easter, 1928, with those we ac- cepted for Easter, 1927, will prove that for once comparisons are not odious. For real progress has been made toward general suita- bility and becomingness, and we shall enjoy the fruits of the labors ot the world's most skilful designers. There is danger, however, of going to extremes in this new mode-- and it is quite easy to see the rea- son for this. We hear a very great deal about the reversion to the types of the century just passed. Buch a rever- sion exists, but it is not complete, by any means, and the danger lles in our thinking that it does. This new spirit .of formality, elegance and femininity, about which we hear so much, is delightful, but if it 1s over done it becomes fussy, it loses the spirit of youth that we find so necessary to our purpose. It really means that a great deal of care must be exercised in the choice of one's apparel, for we must avoid any hint of the boyish or the mannish, yet we must not overdo the feminine theme. The charm of a new softness touches the debutante as Well as the ma- tron, but in a different way, With all the matching and contrasting that has been done to assemble the outfit, . Our first interest is in the day- time ensemble that uses the new lightweight tweeds, kasha cloth, covert, the twilled fabrics and the like. This ensemble does mot ap- pear at formal afternoon affairs, but does duty for every practical purpose of the daylight hours. The group includes the classic tailleur as well as the new costumes with a three-quarters or bhree-eighths length coat, and the long coat. There are one and. two-plece dresses, the latter always an econ- 'omy, since the ensemble may be varied with blouses of different styles as well as of varying ma- terials colors. The value of prints, in the daytime costume, is admitted, for they make an entire frock, or a blouse, or they trim the frock of plain material. And they link coat to dress by the ob- vious method of scarf or coat lin- ing. That 1s one thing extraordinarily nice about the ensemble of the t, it phil hically permits us to do as we please. We can bind the dress to the coat in a subtle way, or we can be as bold as we please about it. Coat and frock may be made of the same material, the color of both may be the same or in two tomes, or in abrupt contrast, or materials, col- ors and trimmings may be varied to one's taste. if one's life includes formal day- Ptime affairs, it is almost imperative that there be two coats in the wardrobe. Against each model the latter, this spirit of youthful- ness appears in a correctly modl- fled form, subordinated to an ap- propriate dignity, General Characteristics Of The Mode First of all we are interested, when a new mode definitely arrives, in fashion's final word concerning the silhouette, It may be definitely characterized as Straight, but it is not the silhouette of the imme- diate post-war era. Much thought has gone into {its making, many changes have been Introduced, but we have*hardly noticed their intro- duction, for any change has been so gradual as to be lmperceptible. Into the new straightness Is incorporated a wide variety of flounces, tiers, drapes and circular cuts, so far as the skirt is con- cerned, Jor a while the movement was forward, the back plain. Now they are giving attention to the back, fullness inclines that way, in evening attire there is a deep decol- letage, hemlines drop perceptibly in the back. And' interest is cen- tered on skirt length as a result. More often than not the hemline is irregular. In sports attire and in tailored things we find the bulk of the straight-hem models, and we find that they are approximately two inches longer than they were a year ago. The knees do not show, the two inches cares for this, and the result is highly satisfac- one may then assemble as many costumes as she likes, or can af- ford, there are many times when the two are not synonymous. A tweed coat, cut on conservative lines, will serve as a background for sports and tailored ensembles, for tweed is a fabric of two minds, both excellent. The addition of a' sweater and skirt--there may even be a skirt to match the coat--will fit one out for sports, while frocks in a printed material or a silk, crepe or satin- tailored blouse will result in an ensemble of the class we call utility or. daytime. Such an ensemble travels or motors, goes shopping about town, and may, by stretching a point, lunch and attend the mat- inee, quite appropriately. The afternoon coat will be of a more dressy fabric--satin, silk, lightweight velvet or a fabric of this type. It will be furred, where the sports or tailored coat is not, and it will possess softness of line and less of the meticulously tai- lored appearance that is seen in the coat of tweed. Fabric work- ing will be in evidence, the cape and ghe scarf will be permitted, there will be touches of formal elegance. . With this coat you will wear a frock of chiffon, of Georgette or lace, or you may prefer a heavier silk, crepe or satin. No matter what the ensemble you choose to wear, by its type the world should learn your purpose in life--sports, busi- mess, play--and you should trans- act that business with a pleasure' made greater by the consciousness of correct attire. / PLAST FSO LSS TED FAECES CS COr7E/YE POST EFFECT VELrr TO BLEND WITH == = THE COSTUME UITE as important as any de- ail of the perfectly assembled costume, modern jewelry. is growing loveller and oral varied with every season. The | word jewelry is, in a way, a cour- tesy term, for many of the neck- aces, bracelets and other pleces offered us may not boakt even a | semi-precious stone, But it fills | the place that changing modes have made for it, and does it in a | most acceptable way. With the now perfected processes of making synthetic jewels that are 80 like the real stones that only an expert can detect the real from the imitation, and with the trans- fer of skilled: craftsmen from the art of setting real stones to the business of setting imitations, we profit by extensive displays of di- verting novelties and copies of rare old pieces of beauty, charm and appropriateness. There is a flair, at the present time, for color jin this jewelry. Pearls and rhinestones and crystals are still to be had, but colored crystals and semi-precious stones or imitations of them are smarter, Sapphires, jade, the topaz and the amethyst, lapis, chrysoprase and agate--all are used effectively, all help in the business of building up a harmony to be known, when | purple, completed, as an ensemble, As a concrete example of this there are the pleces in green and in blue, planned for wear with cos- tumes in these two colors, A frock in some stunning shade of blue is complemented by jewelry in a deeper tone, the same is true with | green, and whatever the be had, exquisitely set, that will deepen the color and emphasize the idea of the ensemble, both major and' minor. A new theme has, recently, been Introduced. It takes the form of flexible necklaces of the choker variety, earrings and bracelets, done in varfous forms that suggest | the conventional and the modern- | istic trend, the material gold or sliver, One sees more of the novelty type of necklace than of the strings of beads with which we have long been familiar, thé former of links ending in a carved jade pendant, Pendants are extremely popular, and they are worn, many times, on a slender silver chain that is not visible, a short distance away. The pendant is the correct choice for the woman with a short neck-- it may be in a color deeper than her frock, or it may be of crystal. tory, generally speaking. And, of course, the irregular hem is the true friend of the large woman. The Waistline Crecps Upward Along with the downward move- ment of the hemline goes the up- ward movement of the walstline. The top of the hips is really the very lowest line permissible, and, if you can wear it, the normal line is the ultimate In smartness. There is a sugg¥stion of fitting, so far as the bodice is concerned, giving rise to rumors concerning the return of curves in the silhouette. It will not, however, go beyond a slight moulding. Lingerie neck treatments, the use of fabrics to trim themselves, the réturn of capes in both frock and wrap models, as well as the separate cape--short, long, me- dium, scarfs and kerclhiefs and shawls, all play their important part in the mew mode. And they all increase the feminine feeling in general fashions. Playing an equally important role, we have the swathed hipline above the widened hemline. Grouped ahove we have a repre- sentative display of fashion-ap- proved models. Included in the group are ensembles, separate frocks and a coat, all in the new spirit, all adapted to general use. They will guide one along the path to summeér models and hint of the possibilities of that season, and they prove the effectiveness of the feminine theme that must be sub- ordinated., always, to simplicity. Beginning With A Tailored Suit The recognized classic of the sult mode is the tailleur, pictured here in its 1928 form. It differs little from the tallleur of a decade ago, but one senses the feminine in the flower, the sleeve rufile at the wrist, | | In the en- accessories in gencral, semble made up of a printed frock and a coat in solid color, lines with the print, we meet with one of the season's successes--polka dots are very smart. Summer is hidden in the ensem- ble carried out on white Georgette with its touches of black in em- broidery and buttons. The plain front panel is significant. But the interest of many is centered on the separate wrap, for several ensem- bles may use it as a background. The pictured coat is typical--Iit has a kerchief-scarf collar and fur cuffs--a single animal skin provid- ing the fur for each cuff. The pictured frocks teach us the value of pleats, tucks, fagotting and all kinds of hand work, in- cluding embroideries. We have evidence of the popularity of bows and ornamental buckles and brooches. ' And we infer that the V-line is a favorite with the de- gigners, for it happens that both models use it. Fabrics are soft, and the two reproduced here are of Georgette, which is in high favor with fashion. One of 'the fashions of the Wictorian era is being revived, this time in lingerie. The high-necked nightgown, very long, so that it sweeps the floor, is being shown in { Paris. But we strongly suspect it will not be a long-lived fashion, for at its best. it's nly. color-- | brown, red---stones are to | PIPPI IRR NOIRE POP, A SHELLR FAER/C,* AIL ATL IOs EXQUISITE 7HALOFSYG THE SLEEVELESS FRocH HAS A SHORT JACKET ITH, STLELPEDS "Colors --=Vivid and Gay EFORI we reach any decision | Bo we must | culors are most important, | than a color card! |a garden catalog! First of all we herald the return is rivaling Then there | of navy blue, which black at the moment, | are the off shades of blue--gentian, marine and sailor, | tints in the softer phinlum, hydrangea, iris, very smart! Grape tones are of- | fered, the rich blue of the Con- cord the yellowish green of the range--del- Malaga. Vermilion is approved, One sees the bluish purple of the violet, poppy, geranium and gladi- ola reds, violet tones that incline | to pink, and the delicate tone of | the .orchild, Lilac .and lavendar have representation, there are jon- quil and golden-glow shades of yellow, as well as corn and maize, and then there are the new eve- ning flower shades known as car- nation, petunia, flax, sweet pea and stock--all beautiful beneath the lights. With the strong tones predom- inating in formal things it is rather surprising "to note the trend in the informal type. Woolens make much of putty, sandal wood, citron, cedar and bronze, and there is 4s to what we shall do with know what And | wear, we find that along with' wonderful | [ textiles and intricate lines we must | consider a really new color card | | that impresses us as brighter and gayer than it has been for years. It holds surprises for us, and, in a way, it reads more like a menu Or it might be or the flower Blue is Muscatel, and the deep red of the sportswear and daytime apparel of much discussion of what we know as the "dusty" shades, which are specially recommended for sports And there is a new color offered that bids fair to be popular, "Grege,'"' they call it, and it is a subtle blending of the two neu- trals--gray and beige, just as its name is compounded from the two, Gunmetal and the steel grays, the quieter tones of brown, any color with a dusky cast is included, A general rule can be followed iA the choice of colors--the somber tones for sports, the street and practical daytime wear, and the brighter tones for afternoon and evening. There is a new spat, designed for rainy day wear, made of the same fabric as the raincoat. They are splendidly fitting affairs, quite long, and they are cuffed at the V om mode of pop= They HAL nothing in ali the costume jewelry equals | DID YOU KN( ularity the jeweled pin? . | are exquisite bits, these pins terfeiting rare pleces, 1a: them, and they seem to place anywhere, everywhere on tho costume. On hats, bags, frocks, scarfs! THAT coats are notable for ine teresting sleeves, many models making this detail the high light of the garment? There are sleeves with the puffed cuff--of fur, for fur is fashionable, dashing cavalier cuffs, also of 1 the fabric edged with fur, ¢ lets. THAT blue, in all its man nuances, is being given first pla in fashion"s wardrobe? Coats, en- sembles, daytime and evening frocks, even footwear and all the other accessories use this color, so that the 'something new' may well be something blue, this interesting season. THAT the sweater idea has en- croached upon the blouse mode to such an extent that we now have models In lace? There are two types, one made of frills of the lace, the other of allover, and their mission is to complement sports skirts in crepe or silk in the pastel tones. in LC HEY call them bridge coats, these little fanciful affairs, de- signed to slip on over one's evening clothes in the home, But their purposes are many, for they are so lovely in themselves that the wearer is inclined to seek causes for thelr use, They are fabricated of such beautiful stuffs, tinted such lovely hues, and so smartly fashioned that they are worthy of a place In every evening wardrobe, Velvet, taffeta, satin and moire silk are approved materials, and the coat is lined with crepe satin, They vary in length, so that one may " choose for herself from the hemline, three-quarters length, or -------------------- ECAUSE the designers of our hats seem to have focused their attention on the brim of the model, rather than the crown, we assert our right to say that these new offerings are, in- deed, brim full of charm! It hap- pens, perhaps, that the brim is eliminated altogether, but (ts charm remains regardless. And there are times, not a few, when a veil is used as a substitute for the brim. Manipulation of this part of the hat is varied. There are cuttings, slashings and foldings galore, and a very general tendency to turn the brim up over one eye and down over the other, resulting in th "eyebrow" hat that is one of the season's features. A saucy, up- ward line is balanced by a shadowy, drooping ome, resulting in an ef- fect that is extremely unusual and quite generally becoming. One has the feeling, somehow, after viewing a millinery display, that there is a concerted attempt on the part of designers to revive the popularity of straw as a sum- mer nraterial. And why not? It is far more comfortable than felt, and can be, as the new 'models prove, just as flattering. And as a are hats .of felt combined with straw, as well as velvet and straw hats. The hat of the moment is small, | make no mistake about that. Sum- mer, and the persistent trend to- [ind femininity, will bring out the larze hat or BERN FULL OF C HARM stepping stone for the timid, there | The Dignity Of Simplicity In Both Frock And Details borough type. But right now the small hat, with a brim or without jone, is correct. There are so very bly of the Galns- many skull cap types and turbans | SOMETHING REALLY NEW = the seven-eighths length models, But they are all collarless, with wide V-opening at the neck, and they have long sleeves, belled at the wrist so that they will slip on easily, Some are cut with. gquare and others with rounded corners. Some have pockets, and others have not, But all are embroidered, either in self-tone or In silk and gold threads. Movement is achieved by the use of tassels--cornering huge patch pockets or applied in tiers to either the coat itself or both the coat and the sleeves. The colors are the pastels and white, the effect is of great richness. a ~--80 many of these little hats that look exactly as though they had grown on the head of the wearer, Three models, recently displayed, prove this point. True, they were models, but our hats are but copies or adaptations of models, so there is fashion news in every presenta- tion. All three had their inspira- tion in a foreign land, and all three managed to present proof positive of their source. Two were done in straw, but the third made free with felt and trimmed it with flowers. One, in a pliable hemp straw, imitated the sculptured curls of Greek statuary, bringing three lit- tle curls down over each ear. A second was inspired by the visit of the King of Afghanistan to Paris, 80 they say, and resembled a fez, always a picturesque headgear. The third found inspiration in the mantilla, following its ways, so very severe, yet so subtly flattering. The flowers were crocheted straw. Variety in brim treatment is "| teatured in every collection, A lit- tle hat of ballibuntl has a narrow tucked brim slashed in an original way. Another model shows a brim that rolls up in back, down over the ears, then up in front, achiev- ing somewhat the effect of a skull cap. A third creation flares its brim sharply upward in front, tucking it in parts to achleve a broken line effect. The me straws are very soft and pliable, those that look like linen proving specially adaptable Large hats with broad brims and models with & medium brim are shown in anticipation of the sum- mer season, the former tnimmed simply with a single flower or a bow. A movelty is seen in a small turban crown with a broad brim, the latter detachable, so that becomes a two-purpose affair.