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DAILY TIMES Toe FLAY. of [AS TTIONY > Hy of csr ETN ------ LFCEL /T pres HOY AEH ETT. TATA NRTES 7 AAFC Elegance, Formality and Elaboration Are| asic Characteristics -- Afternoon Attire Emphasizes Individuality. E have suddenly become very much enthused with the idea of the feminine in our clothes. The average woman desires comfort, but she also aspires to look her best under any and every circumstance, We are living in practical times, to be sure, but it is not imperative that we adopt a uniform to go on living this way. Dainty touches and flow- ing lines cannot be construed as a hindrance to one's activities. Perhaps a deal of this Is due to the Increasing knowledge of the psychological value of clothes. The tired spirit thrills to a new hat or a clever frock; we do our best, if we feel that we look our best, and fashion has come to realize this. Perhaps our education has been in her hands, who knows? At any rate, something has prepared us for the new condition of things, and we accept it with delight. Formal frocks for formal affaird --come to think of it, what is more logical? Touches of elegance and softened lines -- their intricacies must surely meet our approval. It is a matter for congratulation that the sports ensemble has been rele- gated to its proper sphere. It was most inappropriate for occasions following luncheon, we were even reconciled to it for informal eve- ning affairs--it was a sad state of affairs. The Situation Is A Compromise Probably it was the comfort and convenience of the sports ensemble that made it such a general fav- orite, but we have found that comfort and convenience exist in this newer and more feminine type, and objections disappear. A compromise has been effected, and the result is a flattering mode that offers elements of becomingness to all. And we have learned that simplicity is one of the most adaptable of characteristics. One contribution to this spirit of formality is found in materials. There are some wonderful textures and colors, decorative, formal, feminine in themselves, and thelr softness and adaptability makes them ideal for the Jraperies, flounces, bows and ripple effects that make the mode of the mo- ment. There are times when only the fabric itself is necessary for the carrying out of the most for- mal fashion. Old-Fashioned "Watered" Silk Clothes are the most wearable E know it by the more mod- w:- name of moire, but the idea is the same, even while the beauty may be greater as a result of the increased skill of the artisan-weavers who make it. We attribute its return and its great popularity to the new idea of fem- ininity which is the foundation theme of p fashi But whatever the reason for its presence in the mode, it is. in it- self, one of the loveliest of our stuffs. The new elegance of the after- moon mode finds it an excellent medium of expression. It is a supple silk, in its modern form, that drapes satisfactorily, or does anything that the designer requires of it. We have long known it as that they have been within our memory. Thelr amazing width of expression may account for this, their sophistication Is another rea- son, their general air of gayety a third. And concealed cleverly, in even the most mature model, there is the irresistible cachet of youth, a trait for many seasons abused. Harmonious things, never extreme, spring's offering to us, The Formal Afternoon Mode Even during the war we retained something of the formal note in our evening attire, but subordi- nated the activities of the afternoon to the town: suit, made gay, per- haps, with an elaborate blouse. But today there are special frocks and wraps for afternoon wear, and they are expressed in the fabrics that lend themselves to clever ma- nipulations and to the little devices that the skilled designer employs. Bhirrings and pleatings, draperies and flounces, tlers and bows and uneven hemlines, all these are a part of the afternoon mode in frocks. And sheer materials are used to correctly achieve the de- sired results. Chiffon, Georgette, crepes, of the texture of Elizabeth crepe, and lace are approved, and the wraps that make these frocks into an ensemble are fashioned of satin, taffeta, faille or moire silk. The hemline is the storm center, although some attention is diverted to the waistline. The model in chiffon, lace or Georgette may be quite short at one knee and rather long at the other, or it may dip anywhere fancy directs. It is very smart to have the back of one's frock much longer than in the middle front. When the hemline is straight, it is perceptibly longer than it was a year ago, Concerning The Waistline Fashion would love to revive the normal waistline, but she knows that it is a trying line. But you will note that in many of the models the swathed hipline brings the fabric to the normal waist on the upper edge. And when there is a belt, it is placed much higher than it was some seasons Rgo. Just a subtle change, but directed toward one thing, that is the way we accomplish all of our changes in line. Lace is a very great favorite with fashion, and it is quite the smartest fabric, because it is the newest. It is a formal material, one of the most delightful materials for the picturesque period frock, since it achieves the bouffant effect better than any other fabric, with the possible exception of taffeta. For afternoon purposes it is used in either the one or the two-piece dress, adopting side bow details, surplice effects, drapes and pleats and the like. It appears in formal afternoon coats trimmed with rich furs--fox, sable, ermine. And two tones may be used in the same model, especially when it is a two- piece affair, long-sleeved, and savor- ing of the exquisite tailoring that is imperative, these days. Exaggerated fullness at the side, the bustle-bow model, and the real robe de style are all done in taffeta, nor do designers hesitate to try out NN E&Y BARES LA STLO SEPA TL IVES CRLEL LO LO ADE TLE CPE LOY dation it in after- tulle or itself be of lace, whether it is used as a four or as a trimming, and we evening fashion as well as noon. It is combined with and chiffon and Georgette, makes the entire model Even the most simple frock comes formal, when made A rather unusual model is pic tured, carried out in one of the heavier laces. Pleated skirt and Jumper blouse make It a sports type, even the short jacket an ap- proved theme in the sports world. | But the touches of satin and the lace itself dignify it sufficiently to bring it into the afternoon class the jumper is sleeveless. Separate | coats are a feature of lace frocks, even those for evening wear, No Fabric Surpasses Georgette A real friend to us all, Georgette is, truly, a practical chiffon. Ivery- one knows its excellent wearing | qualities, and in some of the mod- els a quality of this material is used that resembles chiffon in its sheerness, It cleans, it wears "like | iron," and it will do anything that | is asked of it--a quality that is imperative, if the new character- istics are to be satisfactorily ex- pressed. In the model with the finely pleated skirt we have many of the newest details. The uneven hem- line, much longer in back than in front, the girdle reaching up to the normal waistline, the tight sleeve, the blouse and the irregular neck- line with its touch of lace, all are indicative of a swiftly moving trend toward formality. A frock of this type may, later, do service in an- other color--the fabric dyes beau- tifully. Proving its versatility, we have the ensemble of Georgette carried out in black and white. The two- plece theme is again exemplified, the pleated skirt of white edged with black, the jumper embroid- ered smartly in the same color. | Note the beit at the normal waist- line. The straight line coat is made of black Georgette, very simple and unlined. But the en- see new ideas with this fabric their | less medium. It achieves definiteness in the uneven hemline that is now | imperative, and "holds its own" | wherever it is told to go. Simple { wraps, in draped effect, comple- | ment the more elaborate evening dress--there is virtue, always, in| contrast. | Afternoon brings out the new | shade--melon,violet,Chantilly green | and the smart "off white." Eve-/| ning permits violet and beige and | green, also the mew "sailor blue." | Moire is the keynote of a | fabric group--somewhat stiff, | materials, and it expresses, with taffeta and satin, the feminine formality and beauty. No silk is lovelier than this "watered" variety of our grandmother's day new these | along mode of | con uch Approaching An Ide: there is a variety wide ke in all occ Vhen ite, so far werned, It » ure within ite, even cems possible » short or too larg that | daughter fons and | ve shall | In 1". | for CU ACH" AND FAAS TE FOP FOP 77L ATER AEA | | vidually belong to them, The girlish things, not wear the same or her grand-daughter, Sports activities have their correct young girl will find plenty of but the matron need | costumes, there is proper apparel | | for | formal | out for country wear, afternoon affairs will bring another type of clothes, and the dinner hour will mark another boundary line We are recognizing the essentials of true formality, - ae THE town and SEEN IN SHOPS EAUTIFUL evening accessories B that make » formal costume even more gorgeous than its own beauty, the carnelian or rose or long necklaces, various pleces, the a newcomer to the Lovely crystal jewelry, stones beautifully faceted, and pearls baroque pearl present mode. 1 Ostrich fans in gorgeous colors and from one to ten- uncurled, in black, varying tick size, the feathers * preference. NTTING CHIC INTO THE MODE ITH the sports type of cos- tame relegated to its own special field, one would think that it would receive attention from the couturieres. But the restriction of its activities seems to focus attention upon it, and some of our most intriguing ensembles belong in this group. The three-piece suit is the back- ground of the sports mode, which relies for so much of its charm on fabrics. We are always served by our fabrics, and with every new season that service increases. To the cot- The New Knit Proye Fatremn 2 Fabrics ly Useful | the sweater belongs, tons, silks and wools, we have seen rayon added---science discovered a new material in so plebelan a thing as wood-pulp! To woven textiles they have added knitted textiles, and a real accomplishment fit is, if we recall to mind the first. stretchy, pully attempts that were offered for our use. One and two-plece dresses, as well as coats, are now part of the stock-in-trade of the couturiere who shapes our fashions. And when the coat and the skirt of the sports ensemble is of tweed, there is always one sweater, usually more than one, planned for wear with it. The "sweater costume" is a vogue of the moment, and into its make-up goes the expert knowl- edge of the designer. Many beautiful colors and all sorts of stitches and patterns make for the necessary variety, and sweaters are worn with skirts of crepe de chine, as well as with the tweeds, reps, homespuns and novelty wools. And one of the newest and smartest concelits is the zephyr sweater in novelty lace stitch, worn with skirt and kerchief of crepe. séarf are bordered in a deeper shade. The hand-knitted sweater {is worn with some of the "town" en- sembles, as well as with the sports outfit. Into these sweaters charm- ing designs are knit--sometimes they are conventionalized, again modernistic, or floral or polka- dotted. There are some wonderful colors and color combinations, for tweeds are taking on color, you know. They appear in greens and blues and shades of violet, as well as grege and beige, so there must be sweaters to harmonize with them. There are effective combinations of gray and black, sometimes two shades of the former, these most charming with Oxford mixtures, or the tweeds with gray in them. It does not matter what the make-up of the suit itself may be, just the same. So . combinations of brown and | beige, garb as her | grays, quartz in chokers | in | flannel and jersey, | Skirt and | | neath it. TIO CLLTCED ARE, TOT 7TVIVES, BETTER THY OVE beige and bronze, tan and are . imperative for the harmonies, greens and blues and thelr friendly brown brown | tones, and violet--specially smart and lovely with beige, have been worked out to complement the new spring color range. The slip-over sweater Is the pre- | ferred one, and more find the, Evening Slippers OR a mode of much magnifi- T cence fashion has decreed eve« ning footwear equally magnifie cent, but at the same time she has qualified her decision. She insists that it be subordinated to the cos- tume as a whole, and not distract the attention from the general scheme, Perhaps it Is in the 'ate tempt to make this possible that she has reduced evening footwear to little more than a sole and an instep strap. Very dainty and lovely, the new- est evening slippers, done in gold or silver kid, or in what may seem, at first glance, to be brocade, but is, Instead colored kid patterned in gold or silver. There are bro- caded slippers, of course, and there are, too, the pastel tinted reptilian leathers that are most effective when combined with another ma- terial. There must be a fairy lightness about evening footwear, There 1s practically no white footwear for after dark purposes. Silver 1s worn with white and when a frock is colored the footwear may be of the same shade, In vel- vet or satin, carefully dyed to match. One eminent Parisian "bottler" has decreed that eve ning shoes must be one of three things--gold, silver or in the same tone as the frock, and it is, at least, a rule to govern a general fashion. The prevailing fashion for cute. ting the shoe down on the side so that it does, really, seem to be made up of little more than a sole and an instep strap, should be a formal fashion only, and then ft should be the choice of the woman with a slender foot--no other. The shoe without suppoft at the instep is not the prerogative of the wome an with a plump or a wide foot; in such a shoe her foot seems plumper and wider, Added to lovely materials there are the brilllant ornaments that connect this footwear with the beaded evening frock or the velvet gown with rhinestone ornament, Gold or silver kidskin is made yet more gorgeous by a jeweled buckle, span or heel--the stones may be topaz, if the slipper is gold, or they may be rhinestones against silver or brocade. The heels, spans and buckles may be purchased seps ately, AN OLD FRIEND Q VERY time the cape is fea- ETULNS tured in the advance models | of a new season, we wonder why we ever permitted it to | V-neck becoming than can wear | disappear from the fashion horizon, other lines well. surface free | even when the design Is not knit into the sweater itself. Embroid- eries and appliques are used, the | polka-dot pattern a favorite, and at times the dullness is relieved | by the use of gold, silver or bronze metal threads in the knitted pat- tern. An entire plctured--the the | the knitted skirt, ensemble fs jumper and | i | | { - The Ensemble Finds Expression In coat dome fin the same material. The skirt has side pleats, the coat is of the simple, jacket type, and the jumper has its decorative note woven into it. The zig-zag, "light- ening" motif is used and is carried out in a deeper color. The coat is really an adaptation of the familiar coat-sweater, with a slip-on be- Just how effective the patterns can be is proven by the checked model carried out in the always | lovable combination--white, gray | and black. A rather unusual thing | --the belt jis knitted onto the sweater, the bow a separate detail. | | also, The skirt of this dress is knitted. and the color harmony is! continued in its solid gray, of the same shade as the check in the black-gray-and-white jumper. | This leaves | It Is such a jaunty, saucy, swagger for elaboration, | sort of a thing, and. it is capable of s0 many variations. And right now it is very much in the limelight, both as a separate garment and as a detail of both the coat and the frock. We might have expected fit, tor | fashion seems to ends--scarfs and bows and narrow draperies that drop below the hem- line. cape, designers are applying it wholesale, but with such an amaz- ing variety that there is little chance of monotony. What with jackets, three-quarters and full length coats, as well as capes; wraps, like the marines, have the "situation well in hand." | | | love fluttering | | Having decided to use the. | In sports costumes the caps ap-| pears as a separate garment or in- corporated into the coat. The ma- terials used for even the most utili- ! tarian of suits are so very supple that there is grace in this type of garment. Tallored coats and suits make use of the cape, and some of | the very formal afternoon coats' have an odd-shaped cape, fur- edged, perhaps, for the sake of variety, even when collar and cuffs are not, The pictured model may be taken for a basis In a discussion of the use of the cape on a coat. They tell us that the straight line coat, with snug belt and form-fitting shoulders, is ultra smart, then pro- ceed to show us coats that are caped in all sorts of ways. True, the scarf coat is also prominently featured, but more often than mot the scarft widens into the sem- blance of a cape. In this special coat we have an excellent example of the assyme- trical theme applied toc 8 wrap. There are, you will see, two capes, but they are similar only in name. One leaves the arm free, the other covers it, one suggests a yoke, .the other curves upward in a contrary way, and one falls lower than the other. A most intricate model, made so by lines alone, those lines drawn by two capes. There are certain models that look like a coat in front and a cape in back--two-faced affairs, one would call them. Sometimes they have sleeves and again they do not, they belong to the taflored group. Such a garment is the step between the capeless coat and cape that is a garment in itself. It is as a rule, a becoming sort of wrap, loved by the woman who inclines to tailored effects. The circular cape, swinging from the shoulders, is present--we had this type of cape two summers ago. Then there are several varia- tions of the cape-sieeve, there are tiered capes, or it may be a cape | swung from a yoke. Shorter capes over the sleeves are new, and there is the postilion cape that faintly resembles the dashing capes of our ecually dashing West Point cadets. The cape that runs up to the This Caped Coat Possesses Unusual Distinction irregular line--a wide slant, for ine stance, that brings it to the wrist on one side and above the. elbow on the other. This line is usually emphasized by trimming of some sort, fur preferably, and is seep on the more formal models. For once in the history of fashion, it is pos- sible to cut one's cape according to one's cloth! DID YOU ENOW~-- HAT while vells have long been insinuating their way into the mode, they have, only recently, become a real fashion feature? They first appeared on the brimiess hat, now they are worn with brimmed models, and they have extended their usefulness to the felt sports hat. THAT the new blues in fabrics have brought out some lovely colors in costume jewelry? There is a wonderful shade called "Star Blue" that appears in transparent stones mounted in white metal, and this stone is to be had in brooches, mecklaces, bracelets and matching earrings. THAT the mew spring "bob" seems to feature two things--curis and bangs? There is a softness about both, for the bangs are curled at the end, that seems to ig in with the new feminine fashions, and waves and curls are the mes diums through which the barbeg coilar line is often cut in sume will express your individuality.