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DAILY TIMES OF TF ER \ ETP AAD TATA FHL LL XR FAB RSCT The First Concession to Spring is the Tailored | Suit -- Since it is a Classic, it is Expected, | HICHEVER way we take | the mode, we find that de- cided lines are drawn be- tween this, that, and the, either thing. One line cuts sports- wear from tailored things, another marks the difference between the tailored group and afternoon at- tire and distinctions, when they exist, are clean-cut, And this ap- plies, not alone to suits and coats, but to frocks and all the many! appurtenances that we know as) costume details. Never has the line of demarca- tion between tallored and formal things been so sharply drawn, never has there heen a tallored | mode so friendly, in its spirit, to all types. The woman who wears severe lipes and details well ded for years, been the envy of those | who do not. Her air of impeccable | good grooming was an effect hard to achieve, if the wearer had need | of softer, more feminine lines. The truly smart woman of the Spring, 1928, season can combine | the two groups in a wardrobe that | cannot escape versatility. She can | choose from the swinging. moving, fluttering lines that express move- ment, apd belong to the formal | afternoon apd evening mode, or! she can choose from the easy, somewhat casual smartness of tai- lored things, both have thelr def- | finite place in the life of today. | It is, you will find, a new tailored mode, softer. and with a seeming | carelessness that utterly belies the | care that has gope into its achieve- ment. And it finds its best expres- | sion in the emsemble suit, ready' assembled or self-assembled. There is no getting away from this theme, for it dominates everything from lingerie to accessories. Sports at- tire, taflored things, formal dress obey its mandates. Part of the new softness that we observe in tailored garments comes from the fabrics. There is an enormous vogue for tweed, and there should be, for its practicality recommends it along with its beauty of weave and coloring. The | mew broadcloths, cashmere weaves, covert cloths and twills of various sorts are as soft and supple as and crepe, silk and satin are tallored mode. of all, because, in a way, most important, the new tai- suits are longer, just a bit. mo lomger smart to disclose bend of the knee, which means the dropping of the hemline 2 matter of inches, if one allows movement. There is emphasis the straight, tight skint, model is the striet tail- the short jacket type of ie pT Hm i There are three-quarters length in many of the suits, but whether the coat is short or long, there is flawless tailoring. Sleeves, naturally, ave plain, although there are turn-back cuffs.on many of the models. Intricate seamings, odd patch pockets and a varied assont- ment of belts are details of this sgroup. Stitching occupies a posi- tion of prominence shen it comes i jand white.) to decorative detatl. Note the simplicity of the straight line coat of black fabric. Its sim- plicity classes it as tailored, and its finish proves it a second time. | The collar, of black satin, has rows | of stitching which continue all the | way down the white facing to the hemline. (We are in the midst of the annual spring vogue of hlack | The narrow, turn-| back cuffs have matching rows of | stitching. Another approved model in the tailored class, though sports-wom- an-like in Its purposes, is the rag- lan model pictured above. Its ma- terial is an English novelty wool mixture, very soft of texture, and it makes use of a trimming detail that is unusual. It uses the wrong side of the material to trim the pockets, which are of the patch | variety. A coat of this type meets many utilitarian needs. Just how far the tajlored has really traveled is exemplified in a modern version of the classic tailleur, for. its sports a cape. This cape is detachable, to be sure, but it is indisputable proof of the fem- inine influence in this mode. With this suit, which boasts a fitted waistline on its skirt, a tuck-in blouse is worn--the return of this blouse lends a pew pote to the three-piece costume suit. > SEEN IN THE SHOPS PRING coats are quite as far $e one from the other, as East from West. They are classed as coats with fur or coats without ft, the latter inclined to fine tailoring, smart new details and a suggestion of fitted lines, this latter characteristic one that will bear watching. A new feature of the fur-trimmed models is the away-from-the-face or off -the - shoulder collar, which is bordered with fur. It is variously treated, and the same note is applicable to the cape coats which are once again in favor. Some coats are furred only at the cuffs or the edge of the cape, others edge a scarf collar with fur. In the fur-trimmed category we find that nude and gray are the favorite colors for rimming pelts; fur, ermine and caracul the favorite skins. mode Color has mever been as im- | portant, and colors are showing a | tendency to take on unusual shades, notable for richness and beauty. New, among others nearly as new, is a tone of beige called "Praline." it bas much the same tint as mo- lasses--we will call it luscious! A shade of green that impresses as refreshingly cool is called "Mint," it 4s very beautiful in chiffon and takes glittering ornaments to it- self. There are some rather strong blues, very nice for the woman who has a clear color in her cheeks. There's a new blue that reminds one of cornflowers, there's the mew mavy, just a bit lighter than in other years and distin- guished as "Middy." There's a "Paradise" blue, and there are some attractive tones of purple \ AF COPFRPOTLE™ COLOR LA FECT 7 TLE] FZ FVPEL The appearing in hats and boutonnleres. CATE ANAL AZ ACL A COP, OLR 70 745& LETT OF PHL S027 HC SINS OLA SLAW SAT We Grow Weary OF And | Demand A Change--The New Straws Provide It ! Fabrics T is quite true that fabrics and | materials are no respecter of seasons, when it comes to the hat mode. Felt is an all-the- year-round favorite, and grosgrain and satin and silk are always sea- | sonable. Winter brings out ve vet, | yet we trim our summer hats with | this material, and forth in the snow and the cold of the early giving way to} fabrics long before the leaves be- | gin to turn. Bridging the gap between winter | and spring, we have hats of felt | and straw, the latter used as al trimming, although in some of the many models it is full half of the material used. The fur-coat hat that is pewest and smartest fis made of tiny feathers over a shape moulded to the head--a gray feather hat with gray furs; beige with beige furs, black or brown with the black coat that is collared in brown. But nothing has quite the effect on one's jaded morale of a hat of straw. It is prophesied that the new straws will make decided in- roads into the vogue for felt, but experience has proven that it will not eliminate it. The new little hats are just that--new, and they | have an element of droliness that is not, strange to say, out of keep- ing with the new feminine trend. They seem to accent it. The Silhouette Of The Hat We have been apprised of the broken silhouette, with its many irregularities, its predominance in general fashions assuring smart- ness. In any discussion of hats, these two words are always used in reference to lines--broken and irregular. As a result there are many novelties, ranging from the skull cap, with or without a veil, to the hat with a medium brim. It is with brims that fashion has most to do. jt is frregularity of line that contributes most to the charming individuality that is the chief char- acteristic of the new mode. Variety is always refreshing and chic fol- lows closely on diversity. In the hats that typify the true spirit of the spring mode, and they are, most of them, of straw, becoming- ness is achieved by the manipula- tion of the lines of the brims, when brims exist. Three types predominate in the early straws--the helmet or skull cap, the eye-brow line, which is merely another name for the irreg- ular brim and the toque. The first is msed as a foundation for the veil, which designers are dallying with. The second many straws blossom year, has as issible for any I the third is with something varia style really a skull added to it Soft, Feminine Lines Prevail Hats have bee gradual, impe ree ptible, change Every toward grace the enhancement tures, when possible is" po brim there i of material ways anything twists of i itis one 10 hay ar undergoing a yet decided movement has been toward natural fea- When there manipulation that hness and n and softness in soften eartabhs pert little of ha the fabric (ieft) Black Lacquered Braid (Right) Baku Staw, Sand-Colored, With Feather Fancy | ends sitting up in the manner of a | rabbit's car--they call them that! In the pictured group of several | types of fashion models we find the small hat, skull-cap type, with | a single trimming motif. The | model, in this instance, is felt, but it is an excellent illustration of the general trend. The leaf, of fine petit point, is worn over the right ear, and it will be noticed that the | scarf of fine net finds the leaf motif charming enough for adop-| tion. The idea of bringing a line down over one or two, as the case may be, variously expressed. | Sometimes it is the hat itself that this line, and sometimes | ear, is achieves jt is the way the trimming is ap- plied. But whichever way is the chosen one, the effect is good. It | 13 seen that the draw- | will he read | brows turns it up, quite abruptly, [It j brimless carefully individ- | ing of the line must be done, if becomingness and uality result. A General Upward Movement There Is a decided tendenc) the forehead be truly sald that not show show cannot the are a matter cern we one other many times One hat, in its theme, h wide brim all the way und, bt in front, d pin or rad 1 radica fa with a jewel¢ ornament jt 4 1 from the en it partur close fitted back line. But the r¢ about this hat something manages to shade the ey the merest line of a ba accomplishes its unusual th all of its type, or-other that ally and is .the eS & is but i which gihce purpos becomingne stand the is one of few women abrupt flare It noticeable can from that iny of shadow the other. aws is m models in some clever way or | more The FLAY of [ASTON CLACH EROSOCLOTH IE TH T7777 CA COLLAR the ornament in respect to the curve ol the brim. The hat of baku straw is carried out in a soft shade of sand and brown--the feather fancy in the tone. Again we have the eye-brow line, which results from a slashing and folding of the brim. There is greater depth in back than see in many of the models, for before its manipulation, of medium width, So one expect unusual lines, this coming season, with the brim the reason. C from the most diaphanous of chiffon, lace or Georgette, is considered the ultimate of smart- It appears in tailored types, sheer, but quite plain, and in claborate pleces that are planned, apparently, for formal latter brim, may DID YOU KNOW -- HAT black lingerie, created very | clothes. THAT the vogue for gilt jewelry | is responsible for a new necklace | made of gold and copper? It lies quite flat to the neck with a rib- bon-like appearance, is geometrical in its design, and is very slender and graceful. The combination of | metal tones gives a flattering soft- | ness. THAT an old fashion has re- turned to us--wrong side out? Your satin frock will hide its sheen and wear the dull side out, trim- | ming its dullness with the satin surface. Which is, you will see, in | direct contrast to the fashion of the crepe-trimmed satin dress of the winter. THAT some of the newest hats, really serious about being fem- inine, are actually "trimmed" with | flowers and fruits? They come in Faced With Blue Faille Silk. The new straws are very smart, | and. of course, very pliable. They | include the linen-like weaves, the smoother straws, very smart in- deed, and reach out toward the shiny straws. Milan, bangkak, | | ballibunmtl, sisol, picot and the cire | finsihes--cellophane, of course-- | are listed. You will find a sheen | in many of the hats of the moment --it will be achieved by the straw | itself or by the trimming. in The New Lacquered Straw A model is shown to illustrate | the use of a shiny straw---a black | lacquered braid the choice. The lines of this hat are typigal, for the brim rolls away from one eye, but droops over the opposite ear. This brim has a half facing of blue faille silk--rather a bright blue-- and the ornament is of blue enamel and rhinestones. Note the curve of cloches and turbans and all the approved small shapes, and they grow blossoms that put nature to shame with their colors and very \ RD fACCS HIGHLIGHTS OF THE SHOE MODE O important is footwear in the Qiomiaion of a perfect ensem- ble that it is imperative that we keep constantly in touch with this ever-changing mode. From the many offerings it is quite pos- sible to choose both fabric, type must decide it, and color, to har- monize with the frock for which ft is designed. Just what colors are most Important, as well as the ma- terials used, recent displays have demonstrated. In a general way black and the nuances of brown are stressed, Gray, with accent on the gun-metal tone, and beige are important, especially In combination with black and brown, for trims in a contrasting color have assumed significance in the footwear mode. With the coming of summer there will be white, the pastel shades will appear, and colored kid shoes will be a feature of shoe fashions, Patent leather, suede and kid- skin seem to rule, in the order named. In the brown range suede and calfskin are important, and kidskin, as well. Black combines with brown or gray, while brown joins forces with beige or black, Patent leather combines with rep- tillan leathers, vamp of one and quarter of the other--python a favorite for this purpose. The wing tip is again a feature of smart shoes. In brown shoes we see a very great bd combinations of calf- skin a suede or alligator, and there are some interesting printed leathers shown. Gray will be very generally popular in the mode, this spring, and that means that there will be gray shoes for purposes of harmony. The shoe cut very low on the side has not found favor with many, for if the foot is at all plump the lack of support causes it to spread. Late models show two, even three horizontal straps, and there are many T-strap models, The opera, in many versions, con- tinues popular, and the general trend toward femininity is the cause of gorgeous ornaments-- buckles, heels, spans and ornae ments of synthetic stones, Sports shoes feature the Oxford, which has become a very graceful, as well as a very sensible shoe, Tailored pumps with leather-cove ered buckles are found in this group; one-strap and sabot-strap effects, as well as step-ins. Prob- ably the two types that have earned the right to classification as classics are the pump and the one-strap, and modifications and variations of these styles are everywhere seen. : | FABRICS ARLE VERY LOVELY EGINNING and Bo of the mode, fabrics are mentionéd. They deserve | this prominence, for they "make" the mode both literally and figura- tively. And going one step further | --the mode is made figure-a-tively, | if ever mode was, for any material that will stand printing is printed, | and there are some most original | and unusual patterns. And prints are good from the early morning hours to late evening. | The sports mode finds the jer- seys, tweeds, flannels and novelty wools best for practical purposes. There are many ciever basket | weaves and knit fabrics are pop- {ular. But it is when we leave | wool materials and reach the silks, | laces and chiffons that we begin to rcalize the luxury of the new textiles. A broadcloth with satin sheen is not quite as luxurious as satin itself, we adore silk and all its ramifications. That is why manufacturers are finding it difficult to popularize cotton--it lacks something that silk possesses. Perhaps we still react to the old feeling that our "best" dresses should be silk, but no matter how lovely a cotton may be, in itself, the average woman prefers the former. Perhaps the { new linens and cottons will change | this--they are unusually lovely this | spring, never before so versatile | and gay. | Tnere are French voiles that are | quite as sheer and filmy as chiffon. There are some adorable dimities and Swiss muslins, and there will be a vogue of pique, if prophesies come true. All these cottons are printed in clever designs, the volles taking to floral patterns on either dark or pastel backgrounds. At times the floral designs appear against a background that is done in geometrical lines. Handkerchief linen is generously ending every For the Business Woman luscious fruits. EVER have fashions been kind- n- to the woman who adores pretty things but feels herself limited by her surroundings to the plainer things of the mode. She can be quite as smart as she wishes, yet not feel herself overdressed in any way, which means that the service she renders will be not only more assured, but more valuable. The importance of clothes may not be under estimated in achieving success. Perhaps the most obvious of the | many appropriate things offered the woman who goes to business is the ble suit--of kasha, tweed or covert cloth. It will be a three- piece affair, since a skirt and coat of sturdy material will outwear several blouses. If there is gray in the pattern of the material there may be a gray blouse, one in a harmonizing print, some complementary color. a third in| The fashion of each blouse may be radically different from the others, thus bringing variety to the wardrobe. Accessories may be chosen to harmonize with the suit as a fundamental, then they cannot fail to harmonize with the blouses and each other. They will be as smartly tailored as the suit they complete, and they will be kept smart and in perfect condition that they may not impair general smant- ness. There may be separate frocks that will harmonize with the suit coat--a tweed coat in a neutral color will prove an all-purpose coat when separated from the skirt of the ensemble to which it belongs. The daytime activities of a business woman' make it possible for her to "rest" her clothes when evening comes, for the softer and more feminine things of the semi-formal or formal mode heave no place in | the day. used by many of the foremost des signers. It Is printed in batik ef- fects, in stripes and plaids and checks, and in dainty florals. Its colorings are beautiful and the same characteristic is found in the heavier linens that prefer the fresh tones to the softer, daintier ones, Fruits, the bolder florals and Roman plaids are used in these heavier linens. The florals, in varying sizes, are the cholce of manufacturers for sheer weaves. Afternoon formalities call out the chiffons, triple voiles, mousselines and marquisettes, and they blossom as a garden with flowers large and posies small, as the case may be. Every fashlon- able color is used in these gossamer fabrics, the frocks made of them worn against a background of silk or satin coat. Bince there is an established vogue for the epsemble suit that makes fts frock of a print and its coat of plain fabric, lining the lat- ter with the former, we have many of the heavier silks in printed ef- fects. They achieve smartness in subtle ways or boldly, in the mod- ernistic manner, they like bordered effects, they grow flowers and fruits and gay balloons, and they. are dotted and printed in crystal ef- fects Moire and satin and taffeta are approved of fashion, appearing in coats and frocks, and showing marvelous colorings. The dress coat fs of satin, frequently, and it is trimmed with fur, as pictured. Summer trimming furs are short- haired, when they are not the soft and fluffy fox. Ermine, caracul, seal, broadtail, caracul and the like are first choice; chinchilla, mink and sable, if the budget allows. A Leaf Of Petit-Point, Embroidered On Felt