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--_--. ll iii A 0 PE ART aa. a .,s ¥ Era, Ee Potted x lm thie Rameses ELfectiof Git, From Allthe Nations Fash. ion Has Borrowed Inspir- ation This Year~ Droop- ing Feathers In English ode -- Saucy Feathers ThatSuggestParis--Even the Tall Comb of the Sen- orita Is Suggested. HETHER the election went for the much disputed League or not, millinery is evidently strong for its The new hats have borrowed their lines from almost "= 20) every country of the world and the] only type that does not em to be represented is the clumsy, high-set turban beloved of the Teutonic haus- frau, There are English hats, graceful and drooping with the inevitable Eng- lish feather. There are saucy, tilted chapeaux with dashing slant-away- feathers that bespeak Paris. There 'are velvet effects draped high that suggest the dignified mantilla and comb of the Spanish senorita. There are close little caps with trailing coq at the back that give exactly the sil- houette of the head-dress of Italy. There are massive Russian toques and there are turned back effects that Suggest the starched Dutch cap. And Ray as Czech colors are everywhere. Not Even Egypt Omitted A hit of the new season is the Egyp- tian turban, made of glittering jet and Suggesting In tts shape a Rameses headdress. . One of these turbans fs plctured--an odd affair Is it not, but tremendously smart with its extended erown that turns and slopes down over the ears and its massive cut jet orna- ment at the front. Crown and brim are covered with tiny jet beads or elongated bugles, each one of which Fives off a separate glitter in the light. Thin discs of black composition, over- lapping each other in a supple, glit- tering row, rise from the square, turned back brim that turns =n a right mngle at either side. Fur On Russian Turbans Another model that must claim its place in the League, as expressed by millinery, is \he Russian turban with its matching scart, Gray astrachan, out in a well designed pattern, is ap- pliqued to black satin and the trim- ming is gray caracul. This is one of the smart gray and black combina- tions that Paris especially favors this Season. Gray and black; black ana BTay--you 'see the effect everywhere, in stunning wraps, in afternoon frocks, even in my lady's boots of dull black kid with buttoned tops of gray suede. There is something distinguished about gray 'and black in combination--a quiet refinement that more colorful costumes cannot hope to equal. Wom- en who never seemed to you to possess any particular style, appear suddenly =in the black of mourning attire-- distinguished and-chic. And it is the Same with these gray and black cos- tumes of the winter: they have a quiet distinction that lends distinction to thelr wearers. The Russian turban and scarf are worn With a black vel- vet frock and If their possessor Is wise shé will add no touch of color. If she must have a flower, it will be a white gardenia or a camellia blossom. Snowy Ostrich Imitates Snowy Dutch Cap The hat with white ostrich tumbling REOTOS FV, Qorr Prose, ng get; | | ! | | Duteh housewife's immaculate cap-- but it is a hat decidedly Parisian too. Only a French milliner could have originated the effect and have repro- duced the starched stiff lines of the { Dutch headdress so softly and becom- {ingly--in ostrich, The hat itself 1s { small, dipping down at either side over {the ears and having a curled hack {brim in front. This little hat, made of pink fatlle silk is almost eclipsed by the luxuriant growth of ostrich that | Sprouts behind the tiny brim and falls back thickly over the crown, the white feathers tumbling over at either slide almost to the shov'i.r. At the edge of the brim is a weled bamd trim- ming with pink ecabuchons held to- gether by strings of cut steel beads Coq Hats In Sumptuous Colors Two widely contrasting types are presented in the tall, draped velvet hat jand the snuggling-down coq af- fair which represent the Spanish and Italian members of the League in the Lore hristmas present that never fails: Something for my lady's chamber. Or for my lord's chamber, for the matter of that. Any man is delighted to receive things that make his living quarters more homelike, and if they are things he really wants--not pincushions or HERE is one C the books he covets, a shaded desk lamp, a fresh. cover for his beloved arm chair, really comfy slippers, his appreciation is aways forth coming. For my lady's chamber there are a thousand and one gift suggestions. A woman's boudoir is usually furnished with daintiness rather than service- ably and dainty belorgings are always | having to be replaced. A season's dust { wit ruin pale blue satin cushions and This Coq Turban. Like Uhe Peasant. Hexddress of CFO Ter Soret hand-painted shaving paper pads, but | ¥ SENT aly lt | millinery realm. Both of these models | are street hats, rather than evening or {restaurant hats--gs the pink and white model of Dutch persuasion was, as- [suredly. The tall velvet hat will be- jcome one type of woman, the flat coq turban another type. The velvet hat {Is untrimmed, the soft drapery of the | velvet Elving all the interest necessary. This hat is made of black velvet and tthe soft line of the brim 'is most be- coming. The coq turban is almost | brilliant with color. The iridescent hues of the coq plumage around the |brim harmonize with the rich 'dark {reds and browns of the grebe breast {which covers the crown. The line of {the hat is admirable; the shape seems {to hug the head closely yet there is a slight mushroom slant over the eyes which casts a becoming shadow on the | face--as no perfectly round, tight cap ever does Large Hats Follow English Lines i Everybody knows that Englishwom- GE | stream into every bedroom is likely Ito fade cretonnes and pastel &inted lampshades. Fresh fixings for the | boudoir are always acceptable, pro- {vided they harmonize with the gen- {eral color scheme of the room--one | must be careful about this, |. Fifteen dainty gifts for my lady's chamber are suggested in the pleture {and they include the attractive three- | mirror dressing table and quaint chair, | the cunning little three-leggdd bbdside | telephone table, and the silk shades of | the electric light fixture as well as the | cushion, scrap-basket, bags, baskets |and boxes of modern design, and the | very engaging : negligee 'outfit of the | lady herself. If you cannot give your friend or your young relative who adores pretty backward Way be suggestive of the|covers, and the sunshine that should | 2 Nandeome 0 ng-tabie and A ressi _ EMBROILSRED LINENS HRISTMAS 'eedleworkers are busy now on xifts for friends who are hous yives, and are turning out emb: 'idered towels, Pillowcases and table na 'kins. Scarce- Iy a housewife whose lin 3 stock has not been. sadly depleted 'uring 4 the last five years. Embrolde. )d - linens for the housewife friend not go amiss, and towels seem to 'be most wanted of alll. Hand en jroldered towels do give the bathro¢ or the guest room a distinction jhat Im- presses any visitor, They (give the dainty. individual hdme : bre. No matter how handsome and 'ostly the damask towels you use in an .xelusive ' hotel---they are no! embraide, sd and initialed as rowels In a well.fur shed hyn. are, \ If you embroider towels for Ch \at - uns. do, for pity's sake select g \e vd | towels Housekeeners ha FOR CHRISTMAS GIVING | been 'deluged with the tiny and not very useful '"'guest-towels"" which ev- lerybody was giving everybody else a attending afternoon bridge parties-- {the prize was so sure to be a guest | towel! What housewives need now is | regular fowels and if you can only {give one towel, make it a large, hand- |some affair of linen damask--and | duplicate it every birthday and an- | niversary until your friend or relative 'has a full dozen. She will appreciate | Your gift--be sure of that. A pair of linen pillow slips, scal- loped and initialed, make an accept {able ®ift. Or you can finish the slips with fine hemstitching instead of the scalloping. Pillow shams are coming In again and have even the old-fash. ioned ric-rac braid decoration. For i pillow shams select a very heavy linen i of close weave = iow seasons ago. One grew tired of | chair set for her boudoir, you can cer- { tainly present her with a new and be- { coming breakfast cap or a pretty silk {bag to hang somewhere about and {hold the nic-nacs a young woman Is {always collecting. Four _delightful boudoir bags are pictured. Two of | them are party-bags, one is a dainty [little theatre reticule and one is a | workbag. . The party bags hang at the right, one from a corner of the mirror | and the other from the chairback. The | upper bag 18 of pink satin and cream ifilet lace and has gathered sides so that a pair of slippers may be tucked in, if need be. The bag on the chair |is of pale blue velvet with eircles of fluted velvet ribbon in mauve. The atre reticule at the left side of the picture, from the dressing-table mir- ror, is made of 'White velvet, nar- row goid lace and palépink roses. The sides of the reticule are-flat dises cov. ered with the velvet, and between the flat sides is a puffed strip of the velvet with gold lace at either edge. The Jite = The Dash, hiss rh {en fancy large hats. Small hats are | worn with street costumes but when the Englishwoman dresses up----really dresses up for an okcasion, she wants a | big, drooping graceful hat. JAnd that hat in nine cases out of ten has an | ostrich feather. The Englishwoman, | moreover knows what she is doing for | the big, graceful hat suits the English | type of face to a T. The typical Eng- { lish feminine face is gentle, sweet and rather reserved, with regular features |set In a fine oval. And the head Is carried with dignity rathér than dash. | The big hat with soft plumes makes |an enchanting frame for such a face-- | a much better frame than the rakish, {saucy, pert French hat. It takes & | Paristenne--or some Amerioans--to | Wear a daring French chapeau. | The gay little chapeau pictured Is of , panne velvet--just panne velvet and | paraa POT st | tle canteen shaped reticyle is lined {with pale pink satin and there is a mirror on the Inner side of the lid. | The workbag stands on the dresser and is a capacious affair, six-sided and covered with shirred satin in rose and old blue. There Are pockets In each of the six rides and a gathered strip of satin is drawn up on ribbons within the six-sided frame, making a cover to keep dust from dainty needlework within. On the dresser-top also, stands a useful trinket box covered with pk brocade and trimmed with pleated Nattier blue ribbon. Most women have such a lot of inexpensive but artistic Jewelry nowadays that trinket receptacies are always accentable. Such jewelry Is not intrinsically val- uable and does mot require a safe with a combination lock; a pretty trinket box on ope's dresser will an- swer very well, and since these silk- covered b¢xes soon grow shabby new ones are always acceptable at Christ- mas season. : No man would permit the befurbe- lowed dame to preside over his tele- phone, necessitating a careful removal of Ber silken draperies before he could get to the instrument and find out who was calling him, But these gay little telephone ladies delight all wom- en who delight in pretty oire-- and after all, the petticoated telephone dame cen be lifted off very easlly when one has to get to the 'phone Io a hurry. The one In the picture has a powdered Marie Antoinette coiffure and a gay little Marie Antoinette | chapeau. ered satin ribbon with narrow ribbon plieatings in contrasting color and her enormous sashbow does add a deal of coquetry and dash to her costume. Floor cushiofs are useful gifts, If a ise. but oh how chile! The large! Her giwp is made of flow- The Tans of thas Hat is. Trench f hat that suggests the English style Is of taupe velvet, with uncurled ostrich] jin the same shade. The brim rolls | {back at the front and the arrange- | | ment of the feathers is very graceful, | over and under the brim and curling | | downward at one side, { Scarfs Draped At Side It is really impossible to overempha- | | size the popularity of "trailing trim-| {mings on hats. If the French mil-| | liners do not trail feathers downward, | {they use trailing ribbons or scarf-ends. | | Sometimes a pérky bow is placed at | the side of a small turban, wide | streamers, out of all proportion to the! | size of the hat, falling to the shoul-| der. Maria Guy~ has produced a | model that is much copied. The small, | {close turban is covered Jet and a scarf of black Georgette | | draped around the brim, is caught at] one § with a jet barette, loose end boudoir is not already ovér-supplied | with them. A floor cushion makes a dressing-table chair or a writing-table chair much more comfortable, espe- cially if the occupant, cf the room is not tall. Pretty, cushions may also be used on the floor in front of fireside chairs or a chaise-longue--and by the bye, don't overlook a chaise longue in your list of acceptable boudoir gifts. Every woman who has not a chaise longue, pines for one. And do not imagine that because a cushion is in- tended for floor use, it must be of dark, serviceable color. Not at all, these cushions are gay and dainty af- fairs indeed with covers of light satin and brocade and sometimes of lace. The pictured cushion is of very pale pink brocade and Nattier blue satin-- but then this is a pink and Nattier blue boudoir; a yellow-toned or mauve room would require cushions to match. The scrap basket matches the floor cushion and is of shirred Nattier blue {silk with a band of pink brocade at the top. A pleating of narrow Nattier {blue ribbon hangs below the pink trim- | ming band. The scrap basket is really ia basket of white wicker, but the { wicker is invisible for the 'basket is lined with pink silk. One popes no- body will throw orange peel in it. Lamp and candle shades always 'make charming gifts. The light shades pictured are most attractive for they are of graceful yet novel shape} and soften the light agreeably without making it too dim. They re made of flowered chiffon shirred aver rose col- ored Georgette and very narrow rib light shades may be of any tint--to match the furnishings of the room but always the chiffon should. be shirred over rose pink--to give the proper and becoming boudoir glow when a light shines behind the shade. The costume of my lady, seated be- fore her dressing table, will suggest several gifts; the cap and jacket of potless Dutch Cap 18 Suffes ed by this dT Iient 0 vi with black each side, hav Spanish s | bon pleating trims the edges. Boudoir : pink' ribbon alternating with cream lace, 'the sarin slip hanging from shoulder-strans which may be worn] Russizn ite Ostrich! ~ Velvet is D | ) to Ro the \Turbs Scarf of G r? Snd Matching vay; hinchilla, and Black, Jatin Spanish Mant ills falling to the shoulder. from Lew Found turban shape. At the left s'de Springs out an abrupt bow of black velvet, with long velvet ends, knotted | together at the shoulder and then hanging to the waist. All these trail- | Ing streamers are at the side, remem-| ber--exactly over the ear, Very small hats of black with crowas flat on the top of the head and tiny brims that cur! up at e a towering hedge of at the back-another| representative in the millin-| ery League of Nations, one is sre, for | the able velvet, ! seal sheds black goura under a negligee or an evening and finally my lady's footwear. boudoir slippers--the pictured Another hat at a little distance the weater is, Is of white grebe in | petite turban seems to be hatless--- with a tall comb In her hair. Fur Hats Appearing Daily After Thanksgiving the fur hats bee gin to appear, on millinary as a trimming. are usually of velvet or brocade and rim, only, of fur. milliner. pelt phogue which is the first cont the baby frock, | called mules-- Satin | match will m SOTt, | gift if you can think of nothing elsel = of this This year fur is used Crowns The fashions in Paris- now is The hairs are dollected and by a freezing process stuck om ® 7 rubber background. the effect is furry and soft, and somes thing like thistledown. When finished ret and sflk stockings to ake a very acceptable ble Cheistioas Gifts. How Many ount The Gift Suggestions For Milndy's Boudoir, Acceptal | We Make Out Fifteen Can You Count?