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PAGE THIRTY-FIVE ATR ATT Tas ------------ given in these columns a lesson in renaissance em- broidery. As a preparatory step it Is first necessary to know how to make per- fect scalloping, for that plays a most ef- fective part in this type of needlework. Every woman really should learn how to make scalloping. for it mav be used in 8G many ways to such good advantage. Instead of lace or hem it may form a pretty and practical finish, ard when prop- erly made it will add mach beauty to one's werk, To make perfect scallops requires the same care and skill as does other on : broidery. Ome must be sure that the de- sign Is well stamped upon and not too near the edge of the matgrial so that there is sure to be enough material to hold to as ons works If there is not and the material slips the scallops .are sure to be uneven, Perbaps some peo- ple. believe that they must purchase a ready made desiam and stamping paper to fashion scallops but it is a very simple matter to make one's own dasign if one aleverly employs a ten cent piece or any round object that is the size of the scal- lop one wants. First make the design upon cardboard. Draw the lines A, B, C (sée figure), which are parallel. Place the dime or round object upon the board so that it will be tangent to C. Then outline the are of the circle. Lower the coin so that another portion of the circumference-D, E, F- may be drawn. Then mark the point G, by which the third line, C, parallel to the two others, is drawn. This line will serve as a gulde and will Insure the scaliops If one has a piece of work that should have scallops in the corners of it, such as] a table cover, it is sufficient to draw thres-quarters of a circle, which will Hnite the scallops of the two sides of the| Work. | Now cut the cardboard around each] circle and place the same upon material and with a very sharp pointed pencil outline around each scallop. Lower | the cardboard to make the second line fn! scallop. With darning cotton "1 in each schllop with chain stitch, but be sure not | to make too many stitches in the corner) of the scallop, as it makes the points too thick and clumsy. Most workers use em- ®roldery hoops to keep the linen from puckering, but if one does not care to use hoops one must be sure that the work is kept flat over the index finger and on the | straight of the goods, 2 To begin "to em the broider make a run- ning stitch along the. outside lines of the] Scallop and then fill in the scallop with the chain stitch un- til the scallop Is wel) rounded and stands up in relief from the linen. Always work from the left to the right and be sure that the needle goes in ex- actly above the up- per drawn line and comes out exactly below the lower line (see figure 2). Pass the thread under the thumb of the left hand. Make the stitches very even and close together to get good results. 'When it is time to rethread the needle do not make a knot in the thread, but pass the thread through the padding and cover its ends with embroidery stitches, When the embroidery Is finished, if it j= A bit soiled it is much better to wash and Iron it before cutting out the scallops. Iron it over a heavy Turkish towel to give & raised effect to the work. Use very sharp scissors for cutting away the ma- terial and cut it very evenly so as not to leave any rough edges, Always use embroidery cotton that is twice the thickness of ge thread of the linen upon which the design is to be i SW ¥ "F SLOUCH 1, XN R, CHAIR FA Han CAMERA Prete thought of our spine as an upright post.; drawn in slightly and the chin beld with our shoulders as the crossbary,| firmly up, but it really is ome of the and yet if we could so visualize it us| simplest acts to which we can train such a structere and guard it so thai ourselves. ; ME. MELBA, the opera singer, is now acting as a of a singer, Mrs. Ethel C. Blair has been elected a justice of the peace in Shasta, Cal. Girl workers in the shops of many of the Western railroads have proved so success- ful that it is the intention of the various companies to hile more. Alice Neilson, the noted prima donna. is studying the mysteries of hog breeding at her summer home on the shores of Long Lake, All the Jewish women in this country are to be orgapized for overseas work. Miss Mary JAnder- 3 son, a member of the @ International Boot and Bhoe Workers' Union, is assistant chief of the new woman's bureau of tha Department of Labor. ! 't ae Women's Motor Corps of San Diego, Cal, including some of the most promi- nent society women in the State, have been mustered into the military service This is the first mot- or unit in the United States to be made a part of the State militia Damwhamwer hun, St. Andrew's Church at Bradfield, Eng- land, is the only church in thdt country where the bells are rung by women in- stead of men. Maude Adams, the actress, is working in the cafeteria of the Young Women's Chris- tian Association in New York city. Miss Nellie M. Reeder, of Hays, Kan, has been appointed by the Ordnance De- partment to have general supervision over the conditions of work for women at the war plants in the district comprising the States of Connecticut, New York, Massa- chtisetts and Eastern Pennsylvania Women gate tenders employed by the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad work eleven hours a day, seven days a week All trains arriving and departing from Harrisburg, Pa., are called out by women and girls, Women laundry workers In Kansas are prohibited from working more than nine hotirs a day and the law fixes a minimum wage of $8.50 a week for fifty-four hours of bor. w Helen Keller will shortly make her ap- Capable war work speaker Instead Women A Jottings About the Doings of the Fair Sex y Women are admitted to membership In | the Scottish Institute #f Attountanis on | exactly the same terms as men, The Texas Federation of Labor is ens { deavoring to organize all the femate works jers in the Lone Star State, Ta all the munition factories in England where women are employed there ia 4 welfare superviser., whose duty #t i3 to maintain a healthy staff of workers and have them toli under satisfactory condi tions Twenty-nine per cent of the wonien mis nition workers in Great Britain were fore mevely housewives and domestics Officers of the International Ladies Garment Workers' Union are preparing to make effective the declaration of thair last comvention for an educations! cam- paign to be conducted by five agpointed members to be selected by the president Qf the union, Mrs. Stella B. frvine is a candidate for Congress from California Kansas has a law which protects ite women workers both in wages and the number of hours of emplament The proportion wi! °° women formed of the total number of ekers in English munition factories rose fram fourteen per cent in January, M6 to twenty-thres per cent in January, 18 More than {00.000 women ard now em. ployed in making muaitigng for ihe Knx- lish army. The number of women in government positions in England cxcéed by far the number of females employed by any other country In the world Miss Rlizabeth Christman, of Chi cago, has taken 4) her duties in Wash ington as chief of staff of women ex aminers for.the Na- tional War Labor Board. Women workera on the buses, trams and underground rail. ways in London have been granted an in. crease of $8.25 a week Twenty - f ve hun dred street car men in Cleveland threat en to strike {If the Cleveland : Railway Company carr'es out plans to put women on the cars as condugtors. Women trade unionists in Great Britain now number more than 500,000. Waitresses in Oregon recéive a minimum wage of $11.61 per week. Female garment wor in EE Towa, Rave been granted nn tem per cent mus ru ZABETH Ca --_r Peary As for sittings, it 18 a bit hard not to "droop." but if we will push bur selves far back Into our seats so that the ends of our spiped #re near the backs of our chairs we will find our selves involuntarily sitting straighter. because we have untwisted those curves in our spines, . It is worth while to cultivate chest expansions, for when it is raised ns it It may seem a bit strained at first|should be the rest of the body almost {to stand with the chest raised and the] necessarily falls Into true posi everishoulders thrown back, the abdomen tion. i | worked. ft will niet bend we would go a tong | way toward "Keeping our figure' and retaluing that perfect balance whick counts for so much in a gracefu! ap- pearance, It seems a perfectly simple matter to sit correctly, and yet rarely de most of EW of us rpalize it. but the uu-|us do #0. We slouch in our chairs in a! gainly figure! is often the result of| probably eomfortable but decidedly the very ungraceful way. in which| Awkward and possibly injurious, way. pearance iu motion pictures. . Women are employed as scavengers in Sheerness, England, increase In wages. a nn the food consumed in France 1» raised by women workers. Problenis | its owner sits or stands. Possibly - none of wus have foundations for a finer and higher civiliza- tion to be reared upon, and can we not liken the good and homely airs house: wives sing at their work as they conserve == for the nation and send out stalwart sons to battle as the key that will as nearly as any predominate in the gamut of this great war-medley we are trying to interpret? We are serving an apprenticeship in RE we playing the present strenuous game of life in its right key? At no other time in the history of the world has it been so imper- ative that we be attuned to the spirit. ofthe times as during these dis: cordant days when the sad minor strains ambssnelintuiiniuns NE-PIECE meal, as it bas been termed, is a great saver of both time and energy and is therefore Fish and Tomate Puffs To every pound of mashed potatoes al. low four ounces of any sort of flaked fish and one large tomato, peeled. To peel eas % ofwpufféring and sacrifice have become such crashing major chords of ominous portent. We gll know how 'a false note in the rendering of a musical composition makes new ways of living and thinking, in which the details are vital, and if behooves u: to be quite positive that we are not try ing to do musical fireworks in sharpe when we could more capably play on the Are you a soldier in khaki? i ---------- But the American people as a nation enough for our soldiers, sailors and allies One-third of an ounce of fat measured proving a great favorite with the busy wartime housewife. Try one or more of these fly, scald the tomato, cut in slices and add te the potatoes and fish with a dessert. sponful of chopped parssey, a pinch of suggestions: -- sugar, salt and pepper to taste, lastly add. ing a well beaten egx. . Beat all well together and fry the puffs in plenty of Bolling fat. Drop tha mixture in with a tablespoon ; serve with coffee in- stead of tea. If you answer no, then you are not|need net worry about their own lack of Worth your bacon. This is not meant to|fats, for the average consumption per lisparage you, but it does mean that our|persom in this country is three and a half soldiers must have bacon. Fats are quite fonunces a day, while two ounces is quite; "is impertant in fighting this war as guns adequate to sustain health and vigor, and! X OF ammunition,' and bacon is one of the lin all probability better health and more and a of ake men poling the guna "hief sources of fat. vigor will result from a diminished use of fof the ounce you are trying to save. Is cHinge: and some of us have experi on the humiliation of starting out to play a piece df music in flats (written in everyday effort. sharps, or vice versa), and our flurried| effort to transpose back to the right key | Wo finally get the key, bit ous poise is] 4. lost and the pleasure of our audience di- Mminighed, when if we had just stopped lower, 1 exciting flats of necessary in bacon amounts to just about two thin slices of bacon. Giving up two shices of bacon a morning does not seem much of @ hardship when we realize what a vita! necessity it is to keeping up the health Goulash. Take three big onions to three pounds of beef, which should he cu: in squares cary to handle and well salted. Cut onions ipite fine and fry in a large, stallow Life the Masterpiece. ¥, il : To finish a musical composition bil Fruit Wheels. one second to get our minds and fingers on the right key for that certain composition we would have played straight through to a perfect finish and a pl d. audi And have you ever noticed how a sing- ing. uses a tuning fork? How he Seems to be listening with Bis soul, eves and ears until he produces the impression registered In his mind? Now it 'was not untii after much practice and constant ex- tion in his mind of the comparative tones. the ene given and the one required, that he trained his sensibilities to a quick appreciation of the correct key. It is up to us to-day to train ourselves to sense the right key in which we cas do the most effective work--remembering shat He is & vast sounding board (highly . Just now) on which every false insincere note will through the ages. &- l * reverberate down The Right Way. ¢ + Martial music has always made its com- Belling sehpeal, to the multitude. We can rch stra on to victory (most of us) with the proper inspirational fanfare of drum and fife, and this is the key in _ Which some of ouf Women are playing the Ar game as they busily work in the lime- Hantly, perfectly, is the goal toward Which a performer sets his mind, knowing that the audience will forgive slight tm- perfeoti to during the playing if the end is harmonious. : So must we try to visualize the outcome of this world war, and do the work that we are best keyed to. Just as there is pitch and rhythm and definitely marked time in all music, so should we try to set a pace and & key for r activities, We know how the day 8 wrong when we get up, as we say, "on the wrong side of the bed"~the whole day is pretty liable tc be keyed in distressingly sharp frets and discords, having its inevitable PSY - chological effect on the entire family. New life is one long day figuratively, in so far as its happy outcome depends upon that we have approprinted (after deep thought) as the best for us. In hitching one's wagon to a star, many lisastrous meteoric falls would be avoidee if one travelled the right road or key--min ake sy every fugitiv 'of criti. Siem and BE. 10 a not too distant orb We must do a lot of little détail and finger exercises before we can ae pian and gurely Tite 1% the attuned now to the key lie approval and support. IS a. ae mn suphort A © @ver. that are just as important. The "the mother key) In hap ------ and sacrifice; of valor be unworthy: our working and living In the key aural Fats supply energy to the body, and pork 'at is more used in the army than any ther, because it is more readily shipped and it is the meat best liked by the men working at hard manual labor. Without fats people weuken and waste away. The armies must have fats to keep up the fight. | 1 1 fats. But don't make the mistake of thinking the alties| YOU are saving animal fats for the soldiers It is our soldiers, sailors and the a WER You cont Pive aron Tor bre oigiars about whom we need worry. France and If you would not have had it anyway England are short of fats, terribly short, [Saving means the actual giving up of and America Toust make up that shortage Something you are actually in the habit of out of her own over-abundance. us ng. Bullets and bacon! If you are not using If every person in America saves one bullets. send Your: bacon to so ounce of fat w-day, we can ship fatsis using them. me one who - MEN who. are given to 'blues' or depressing moods fo not as a rule, have any real grievances. yet most of us now and then lose interest in ourselves and the world around us, and as a result things seem ali awry. However, excellent authori' adgures us that self pity is really a sort of disease Ande makes inroads upon the strongest) constitutions... So jet the woman who travel | wastes good time: in elaborating upon powers. A Shirred mull hats I Wee tots. Sa § White tassor with blue stripes makes A eool frock, : EL : Little girls' fall fur on them. Aaa i Many of the new dresses are made with. out collars 7 Hiv A Bold plaids are m demand among sum- mer fabrics. Tp Shades of brown Paris, 3 are are Sot to have HOME HINTS, I -------- el ---------- wo. % Ta Keep cheese, wrap in cloth wet with woes (if she is at all alive to her best interests). try to master those foolish ideas. For if she is an active, healthy person she is not by any means an object Any one who declares {hat she hasn't any time for reading should certainly In Touch with Times. make, time. A humorous story will, un- less one is a dyed-in-the-wool pessimist, not only compleloly drive away ail "blues" but prove an elixir of the first order. If the average busy matron would devote a few minutes daily to such reading matter she would find that her interrupted duties could be resumed in an entirely different {frame of tind. + « Furthermore, humorous reading serves lose all track of ourselves, and self effacement, we are told, is the first and vinegar, fo Use a Boot-buttoner of the curtain. 3 to wind the spring| | When sour white shoes begin ta look Blacking. shabby, color brown or black with ot ' and very fine purpose. It makes Any woman who works o wha ls Riven to Wordeme 3 Taos adda . or who otherwise fdolishly per- she fieuls matter to extrieats from that unpleasant state, and it is ridfculons fo conclude that such women can be sither happy or contented herself to get into a rut. will, unless "Uses all her ingenuity, find it a dif- herself Just so long as they he of the most charming of present stéwpan in oil or butter. Put the beef in the pan with onions, stew about two hours. Do not add water until all the liquid is absorbed. ? Stir often. About a half hour before serving add potatoes cut in small pieces and stew soft. If more gravy is wanted, boil the potatoes separately and add just Lefore serving. This meal can be made smalier by using one onion {o one pound of beef. Chinese Chicken. Cut a fat chicken inte pieces at the Joints; season with all kinds of condi ments, then put 'n a deép saucepan. Add some chopped ham, & few slised sprouts Bift together tws eupfuls flour, one heaping teaspoonful baking powder, one- half teaspoonful salt, one tablespoonful sugar. Rab in two large fablespoonfuls butter. Mix to soft dough with milk; roll out one-half ineh thick. Spread thickly with soft butter, dust with one teaspoonful flour, four . tablespoonfils sugar, one teaspoonful clanamon: sprinkle over one-third cupful each of seceded raisins, chopped citron and cleaned ecur- rants. Roll up, cut In ote inch slices put one inch apart on fiat greased pans and bake In hot oven. a er Rice or Moek Tndian Pudding. /thamboo, if to ha obtained), one chopped ion and' a handful of walnuts. Ceovar with hot water, let stew slowly until tender. Add some Chinese smuce and parsiey. Serve with shredded pineapple. Mock Chicken. Soak over 'night a pint of navy beans Cook next day! with a Bam bone, hacon "ind or quarter pound of salt pork until lionder. Drain and mash, Grease a baking dish.' In it put a layer of the beans, then a layer of ¢tuffing made as for chicken, of layer of beans, . substitute. One quart skim milk, twas tablespoon. fuls sugar or four tablespoonfuls kars, three tabiespoonfisls = molasses, four itablespoonfuls uncooked rice, salt, cinnae mon, giager ar nutmeg to taste. Put all inn a dish in the oven ahd cook slowly, stirring occasionally. When nearly dons stir in one cupful 61d ' Bkimmed rik Serve with of without cream, The adie tion of raisins or cocba makes a nice change. Rice flour. fifty per come. prosd fifty per cent; one cupful gound ». ries flour, ofa