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ait = C--O SAR TALKING ABOUT THE FEMININE EGOTIST Bary & Practical £ F oR Ol is sede t g" ni im - i k iy of macouins genie tbons Ba 0, Ed, how of some diner Home Drerr Makin q esrons and of groat determination. A sareful | for business when she ® =" Rn éary & Practical | Tons Dress Making Ce Serrons * Prepéred Especially For This Newspaper by Pictorial Review FOR THE GIRLIES. dress. It the collar and vest are con goods, 1 yard 27. inche: wide ts n A The vest is turned in at the notches as the first step In making the waist Turn under front edge of front on siot perforations, lap on vest: to small, "o' perforations; stitch upper and lower edges together, work eyeleis and loge to position, Close under-arm seams as notched, closs Ider agam. Bather lower edge of front and back between flouble "TT perfopationy, adjust. stay under gathers; cefiters even, small "o' ness worries. She would 'accuse him of being- a brute if he did that and say that she refused to annoyed with business trials and perplexities. The feminine egoist §s found in the business world as frequently as she is in the home and in society. The least thing that goes wrong cl her em- ployer into an awful taskmaster. She does not hesitate to term him a brate and to explain that she is the hard- est worked woman' in the place. She burdens everybody about her with her complaints and petty annoyances. She refuses to take time to o that many of the women working with ber are giv more time and ef oi ne and have -- combat. Though she expects sympathy from all sides she has no time nor inclina- tion to give it. If anyone complains to her she exclaims, "How dare that woman bother me with her troubles concerning her sick mother when | have an important luncheon engage- ment !" Some women are ers develop and engage- for the calls him back study of egoism shows that it is a | theatre or the opera. quality of mind, not of sex. Thecelore | All levi there are hoth feminine and masculing pita. you stop ito member thay 'by an out- burst of temper on the maid or the children she thinks that she is ready to settle down to work. She remem- bers. something of real 'mportance she wanted To tell her nusbapd so she Proceeds to get him on the tdephone. he takes his time though she knows is busily engrossed in important usiness, : Then she settles down to her day's programme, which is a round of plea- sures; satisfying every whim and car prioe.. She ig well tired ont when evening comes, so her husband .is ex- pected to await her orders. She j the committee of ope to decide wheth. er they are going out or will stay at home. If she is not too tired, 'whether he will or not, he must be her gallant escort at the theatre or opera. MM he refuses it means a more trying even- ing listening to her varied complaints, such as a tirade against the dress- maker who spoiled her gown, the maid who hroke the china and her children, who annoy her with their pranks, He must listen to all these com- plaints with an attitude of Patience and an air of interest. No, he does not dare to tell her any of his . busi. think you will re you have one feminine Qgoist among vour friends or acquaint. ances. Whenever you niet her she tells 'you that she has been seriously ill or that she is on the verge of a breakdown. She. takes time to 'explain at full length that she is pulling herself together by one su. preme effort. The cause of these jad- ed nerves is that she is servi on a hall doaen or more secial an charit- able committees at one time, "hese are the fewest of her trials. Her spare moments are given over to teas, receptions and dances. The time she might use for rest ie taken up trying on gowns, She will tell how she had one gown fitted a dozen times and it was only her ingenuity that made it finally a success. This type of woman shows her ego- isn at home as well as in society, It is a foregone conclusion that she has her breakfast served in bed he- cause it is then that she commences to get her rest. Instead of taking her breakfast with her hushand she lets him eat alone or with the chil- dren. **Hardly is he ready to start off Prepared % pecinlty For This Newspaper by Pictorial Review AN EVENING CAPE. away to (all long at the sides and back; or the fronts may be rounded away at the pottom to emphasize the Circular effect. The model is designed doth for indies and misses. 3% yards of S4-inoh or 4% yurde of 44-inch amteria) being o- quired to make it ib average size The yoke and dare collag are cut trom & fold of material, but the cape is laid on an width to cut, a the first step 1s to Dem the tront and yoke closely following notches, The back sean is closed and: Pressed open eavefully, Use basting threads as freely as desired. tor this belps greatly in making it "look right™ Now. underface upper edge of cape section to 1% inch below crossiine of to to born egoists, oth- foster it.. Either way it means an undue appreciation of self and a forgetfulness of others. If you have a friend who is an ego- ist 'try to interest her in others, jie doing this you will change her from an eogalst into an altruis which means besides bein, happy Pet she will bring joy to those about her. NN my BY WOMEN OF The part that the ladies of India, are taking in the present war is tite INDIA % 5 STAND EMPIRE intbropic associations to aid and . cherished by the majority of Hindus, comfort the soldiers ill or wounded | The women especially cling to these perforation at under-arm seam; large "O" perforation Indicates center-front Sew round collar to neck edge, center: backs even and along small "o" per: forations in front, large "O" perfora- tions even. Sew standing collar te feck edge as notched. Lap right fron edge of vest on left. centers even, stitch lower edges together. Bleeve--Gather lower edge of long sleeve between double "TT pertora. tions; sew sleeveband to lower edge, close seam as notched. Sew sleeve in armhole as notched, easing in any ful. ness, Join skirt gores as notched and pleat creasing on slot perforations; bring folded edges to corresponding small "o" perforations and press. Turn hem at lower edge on double "oo" perforations ' The long waist with novel vest effect shawn on this model gives an entirely new je: for a girl's dress. It may be mada of uny fashionable material from linen te liberty satin. The graceful lines of this frock dis- tinguish It from many of the models that have preceded it this season. lis design is adapted to development in a tub material or In serge, voile or ilk. The front simulates an elongated bHo- Gather upper edge between double "TT" perforations, sew to lower edge of waist over stay; centers even, large "0" perforation in back gore at under- arm seam. Pleat belt at center-back placing "T" an small "o* perforations important, writes Saint Nihil Singh, an Indian gentleman, in a London Journal. The Ranis are gladly giv- ing their hushands, some brothers and other male relatives to lead the Indian contingents in the firing line. Ladies of nobility and wealth are parting from scioms of their families, who, as members of the Imperial Ca- det Corps or otherwise, ate seeing action on the = continent. Indian women of humbler station likewise are offering their men-folk on the altar of the empire. Those who for one reason or another cannot contrib- ute fighters are helping to fill the war chest and give subscriptions to the relief funds and organize phil- in action, and ameliorate the misery '| conventional notions. Therefore it and hardships of the relatives they | could not have been an easy thing for leavo behind them. | the women. of India to let their men- To a great many of India's soldiers! folk Cross the occans to Europe. the crossing of the "black walter"| But the women of India are taught means the viplation of their most | from. the cradle upwards, to obey cherished principles. The Hindu re-{ the call of duty without hesitancy ligion, as it js interpreted by the' or murmur. To fulfil their obliga- present-day priests and law-givers, ! tions no matter how dear it may the Brehmans, Pogitively forbids its| cost them in trouble and agony to followers to leave the shores of In-| do 80, not only without complaint, dia. All the canons of caste and | but, what is more, without any ado. all the dictates of custom that have! On the present occasion the Indian béen followed by the Hindus for age | ladies have respended to the call of upon age are opposed to permitting | the empire with -alacrity and en- them to set out en voyages. Of | thusiasm. They have repressed late years, many men and a few wo- | their affections and their prejudices men from India have outraged thege | alike, and sent their men to fight the prejudices by going abroad, but still | battles of their king-emperor in dis- the sentiment against An RELATING THE HISTORY voyager OF is { tant Europe. EE A ist rrr a THIMBLE Evening cape ot velvet brocade, hav- 'ng an open neck finished with ltanan :ollar of stretched gauze. small "o" perforations: gather on crossiine of small "0" perforations. Ad- Just yoke to position, center:-backs and front edges even, stitching emthers along small "o" perforations near low- er edge ot yoke, bringing single large and doubleismall "00* pertordtions 8 tos ether. . If made high neck. sew turn-over cole 'ar to neck edge as notched, roll ae do- sired. If desired open meck with flare collar, pleat collar, bringing slot to cor. responding single small "o" perfora. tons and press. Btitch canvas under neath ¢ollar from neck edze to double "ou" perforations. Sew collar to neck edge. center-packs evel and along line of double small "00™ perforations in front, large "O" perforations even, Sizes 12, 34, 36 38 40 €2 and 44 inches lero, lacing over a vest of the same or A contrasting material. The skirt is laid In box pleats and attached to the long waist under a wide belt yards of 36-inch material make and tack. Finish with a bow as illus- trated, Adjust to position, center of belt over joining of waist and skirt A bit of embroidery on the front and belt adds daintiness to the dress Simple as is the thimble, it is an | --first called thumb-bei'. It is true, almost indispensible accessory of | Loo, that there is an Jeolandic wold : hart. Th 3c. vo | thummel, that means thumb, anc Sewing. But itis only for "WO that, 80 the. dictionaries say, is the hundred and thirty years that thim- | origin of thumble, bles have existed, Before that time This first thimble, and many after the needle was pushed through the | it, Was worn on the thumb, just as cloth, usually with the thumb, with- the sailmakers's thimble of to-day is out the aid of the little metalic cap. | Worn, His has a hole in the top, but One may be permitted to believe that | the first little thimble was probably the needle was sometimes pressed | a little metal cap or bell that fitted against the table or chair, as some-: over the end of the thumb. times, perhaps, the modern needle-| It was not very long before, thim- woman supplements her thimble with | bles had gone all over the world. Wo- a handy piece of furniture. men, in these days, at least, were In 1684 the thimble was invented, | much interested in needlework. They and it is said it was called thimble, | took as much interest in their thim- because it was a bell for the thumb | bles then as they now take in the A AA a ae eo aan buckles for their tango slippers, and, perhaps, a little more, for the sort of buckle one wears does not really add much to one's comfort or pleasure, and an elaborate and costly thimble then did add to the pleasure of sew- ing. IL is said that the costliest thimble that ever was made belongs to the [ royal house of Siam. It was given by one of the kings to his queen, and it cost $15,000, It is made of gold, in the form of a balf-open lotus flow- er-- the emblem of the royal Siamese house. Diamonds and other precious stones are set in it to form the name of the queen and the date of her mar- i riage, Py rer So -------- HIGH PRICES ARE PAID FOR OLD FURNITURE Elsie De Wolfe was the highest bidder for chairs recently at the third afternoon session of the Dear- den alg at the American Art Galler- ies. After spiritéd bidding by a large throng of eritical buyers a set of seven Chippendale mahogany side chairs: and an armchair were knock- ' ed down to her by Thomas E. Kirby, . for $840, which is at the rate of $105 2h. Bajus Brewery - - each Seal Sis. See wee ves At the center of the top rail of \ This is really a revival of a very old on, but It 1s among the "most prominent of the season's Separate wrups ihe cape 18 cupable of geilght- 'ul variation. for the front may be shortenvd below the hips, then rounoded pe No. 6879 Four the Pictorial Review pattern No. 543. 18 cents Sizes 6, 8, 10, 12 and 14 years. Price, Mectoral Review »o bust. Price, 15 centa 'Transfer pattern, 15 cents. NN rr ti ne > ALES and BAJU PORTER Are the best on the market. Made from the choicest malt and hops and are not carbonated. These beers are a great health-builder and physicians recom- mend them. Put up in kegs and hottles for family use, and delivered to any part of the city. Order di- rect from brewery. Gary & Practical | Home Dress Making Lesrons 2 RR =n a crown supporting wings. The knees For a pair of mahogany Chippen- of the cabriole legs are carved with | dale upright cabinets, W. H. Wick- shells and flower pendants, and the ham gave $600. These and two oth legs have bird's-claw and ball feet. |ers were made from two Chippendale W. W. Seaman, as agent, gave |four-post beds. $100 each for twelve mahogany | For g set of eight walnut Chippen- Chippendale side chairs. Malcolin | dale chairs Henry R. Rea gave $600, McBarney's bid of $840 was the high | $330 for a set of four mahogany est for a set of eleven Chippendale | Heppelwhite side chairs, and the mahogany side chairs and one arm- | same price for a mahogany Chippen- chair. W. James gave $720 for a|dale combination desk, E. T, H. Tal- set of twelve Chippandale mahogany | madge obtained for $580 a Jacobean side chairs and $665 for a set of six English oak refectory table on six ladder-back chairs and one armchair, | legs. Prepared Especially For This Newspaper by Pictorial Review REMARKABLY CHIC IN BLACK AND WHITE. combined with black veivet and words fail to describe the richness of the cos- tume, despite its simplicity, Six yards of 40-inch charmeuse and 2 yards of 36-inch velvet are required to repro duce the design, and there are other materials in which 1t will appear to Just as good advantage. The dress Is cut from the material after it has been fojded in half and all of, the parts of the pattern except the piecing for the tunic, sleeves ana fronts are laid on a lengthwise fold of the goods. The pieces excepted are ape ranged on a lengthwise thread The basque is made first, after the following directions: Close under-arm Seam as notched, close shoulder seam, Turn hem in front at notch. Centers front indicated by double "00™ perfora« Uons. Attach collar as notched. Close sleeve seam as notched, add cuff and sew into armhole as indicated, easing in al fulness. If the tunic 1s made with closed front, slash to left or center-front on line of 3 small *"o perforations for opening. For open froat, see cutting directions. Cless back seam. Tur hem on double "00 perforations lower edge. Pleat Creasing on siot pepe forations, bring folded edges near cone ter-front and back to centers, and os maining folds te corresponding lines of small "o" perforations; press pleats. 18 made open front, turn under front 1% meh. For through these chairs is an acanthus carving, highly conventionalized, and below it A i i Felt Slippers Always make a most acceptable gift to any member of the family, WOMEN'S FELT SLIPPERS 75¢ up to $1.50 THE rr cir. -- rr ---------- PROCESS AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE WAR FASHIONS Every day more war fashions are evolved from the quic kbrains ol those who realize the value of up-to- date ideas, writes s London corres- pondent. In Bond street, at a very exclusive dressmaker's were seen war blouses of the finest ninon in khaki and red polors, with epaulettes, and navy blouses with just the tiniest touch of red, white and blue fluish. Another west end firm is showing of red, white and blue beads. When the soldier's financee, eith-| furs at once," a Regent street fur er in the west end or the east, goes | expert declares, "for next season out with her khaki sweetheart she' furg will be more expensive. One now wears. .a khaki bag made of reason js that this year fur coats regulation service material, with a; are finding great favor with men," decoration of the flags of the allies. Different London furriers are now This is slung over the shoulder | featuring the following for men: and ip of useful size. "Navy cloth coats lined with black | White rabbit skin is the materi- | caracul fur; i al.of one of the latest and daintiest] "Khaki overcoats lined with mus. | coats. for women. Designed as an | quash; evening "undress" blow of black | evening wrap, the "bunny coat" has "Waterproof lace with an almost invisible design | a collar and cuffs of white fur, with goat furs. Tree THE ANCIENT PLUM PUDDING -- A GOOD OLD SHAE "We are all inclined to think that, thick i ae bish, bewwe., bread English cousin, but was lightered by u ding is the oldest and most| Was added. W half cooked, rais-[the addition of breaderumbs, more lus Juddiog ia | rl but as.a mat- ins, currants, Prunes, cloves, nutmeg ©Zg8 and a rice flour, whieh were us. 5 2H B mace, and. any other. condi-'ed instead of the enormous quantity ter of fact the first time it made its ments that were to band were put in| of suet that was required by the ear. appearance in its present form was anw the whole was boiled and boiled | lier recepes. ; im 1675. Before that the Yuletide | to A.ulp. : Nowadays we have more or fess festival was celebrated with plum |, The.Dresent day. plum pudding amalgamated the two varieties and ¥ had its origin in land, but in the have. the delicious compound which vorridge, a dish that must bave re- reign of Louis XVII a French ver-|we know and enjoy during the whole dhited the digestion of an - ostrich. sion, known as "Plumbuting." made ' season, but best of all cn th¢ great irst beef or mutton was boiled in alits appearance. It was very like Raj festival itself. A a ra EVERYBODY "Women would do well to buy sleeping bags lined Es a en Tt CREATION MEN'S FELT SLIPPERS $1.00 up to $2.50 open front. brisg IRLS ND Ys' front edge of tunic to double "oo" pers a A 30 PELY foration in front gore. Sew to basque, centers even. Turn belt hem in at notches. Center~ vv W ¥ front indicated by small "o* performs Effective costume in the taghionable Adjust. over joining of basque cotabination of white silk and black end tunic, matching small "0" perfos satin. It is trimmed with tiny black rations, = s velvet buttons, «This model ta subject to several vars ti lations and instead of the straight belt the tunie can be gathered snd worn with a sash Big, SLIPPERS 85¢ up to $1.25 CHILDREN'S FELT SLIPPERS : 50c to 7c ~~ SHOP EARLY DO. YOUR SHOPPING EARLY "AND HELP Thoughtful people shop early. doing they perform a grac- on and receive a practical or how wodest the purchases are to be, It is gruel 10 wait until the last further, minute; add to the bur- Their chief reward, of dens of the shop people, Jn the tact that they wiki {who will have been on their feet for the clerks in the long hours. are many thought. , but they 150 reap a prace lo " fans, Joy they will receive prom. 1 ni ptoa and secure the advan- | tien, , and, for another, thee of purchasing fresh goods. will stock that has time is on us now to do the | been by fre- hopping, no matter how generousiquent exhibitions to the early shop- per. Few people are so crowded with engagements that they cannot do their shopping early, and those who can do so should start at once. There are people whe cannet dose now: Sthers shop at once, a ce ero and jostling that invariably tollows Inte --- ying. Give the shop girl a ce to a enjoy some of the Christmas spirit rat . BOTL. Sizes 14, 16, 18 40d 20 years fri that should prevail, ara Review Wyas, No, wi) . z doa 3 * este -------------- The osiginal of this model 1s devel- oped in white silk and wool charmeuss reward, £ course," will wait, and of inatten- TTT cee