ï1-* More Spies On The Or:ent Express! Barring wvars, this is the first year since 1883 when the regai clickety-clack of the Orient Ex- press is net heard ever the wind- ing kiiometers fromn Paris te Is- tanbui. It leaves behind a hratfui o3f memenies, aise an estimated 400 novels and short stories in 17 languages and 100 films which used the Orient as backgrouind in ene way or anether. Everyone fromn royalty to tour- ists, fren fereign office couriens te (of course) spies rode the Orient Express in ife and in fic- tien, which macle the 1t,400 miles frein Gare de Lyon te the station in Istanbul in time tee show for today's traveler. Aside frein its slowness, thie reason for the disappearance of the Orient was both poitical and eýconomric. There were tee many Comimuniist frentiers te cross, te many visas te obtain, tee mrany bags te be opened by cuistemns of- ficers, en route, tee niany mneters of red tape te be unwound. The route it teck three times a week across Eastern Europe was tee circuitous, which accounted fer the four nights one spent on this train. (Its competitor, the Simp- Ion Orient, takes a shorter -one through Sw%ýitzerland, Italy and Greece.) And, ef course, in the past few years fewen people rode the Orient, for it wias easier te go by plane. This crack train followed a m-eandering r(eutsc. Fromi Paris it went te Strasbourg, Munichi, Vienna, Budapest, Sophia and Constantinople (Istanbul). A few years after service had started, a passenger could beave London's Victoria Station, ride across tihe sea te Ostend, and board a fast train whcih hooked up witli the Crient, Englishi ladies were fond of thîs connection, pnobably be- cause at least part of the way thiey were assured of heariing English spoken. The Sleeping and restaurant car porters on tire Orient had te speak net oniy Eng- liali, but Frenchi, Geninan, severai Çýermranic tonguesý and ail 1tho Balkan ones. For the first six years of its operation, the jeurney was brok- en at Nlsc in Serbia, where -the passenger boarded a liorse-drawn eoach, crossed the Danube and rode for many kilomneters te a eonnectlng train. Even wlien tire e-ntire trip was made by one train, .in 1889 the running time te Is- tanbul was 67 heurs and 35 min- tites, later engthened 1by several hours after Wonid War 11, wlien the train took a longer route. From the first nun cf the Orient until the days just before World War 11, lien passengens neceived VIP treatrinent from custorns guards. Bags usually were not opened and the train kiept on :chedule. On the other hand, just before the two great wars there were cases where government agents removed spies as effort- lessly as possible. The Orient Express was thoL idea of Georges Nagelmackers, a BEelgium oengineer. He sold the lidea cf this deluxe express te the ne-cessary gevernmnents, and se 1,astern and Western Europe woro linked by a througli srvice, Prier te that if was possible te e ail the.,way te old CenstantÎn- ople by train actually by eliang.. ing trains, many times - a jour- ay that must have been conpar.. #ble to travelling frein New York te BSan Francisco In 1860. From ts beglnbng, thre Orient -?as thre latest thlng in luxuiricous Uraini travel. Sleeping and res- taurant cars were on bogies, whieh meantt smoother, quieTe-r riding. Ail cars other than the, restaurant ones wvere of the cor- r-idor variety, a system stili used in Europe, and ideal for spies te meve about in. The dining cars, had sinali louinges at either end, se that travelers who had booked the second sitting wouid not have to stand while eariier dîners lin- gered ever their péches flambées. Sleeping cars sometimes had' beds, not bertbs, and they were decorated in Valenciennes lace an-d had Brusseis carpet!ig. Somretimies weaithy Turks andi Baltic nobility had their own siiken rugs laid down, Lighting came from s!iiver-mounted Lib- erty lamps,, and one record speakis of several cars that had Waýterford chandeliers. Assuming in those early d.ays that this m~eant candlelight, it could be ar- gued this was flot the most prac- tical way of illuminating a train traveling at 60 mph. In the periodi between the France-Prussian War and World War 1, there ýwas onle inçonven- ient ruling. It said that no more than one waiter could serve a meal in a compartmnent, certainly a nuisance for royalty Who could not be expected to set tlheir feet into a restaurant car, where they niight meet someone who was in trade or someone else who might assassinate them. it seemed there just wasn't roomn for a pair of waiters and a head waiter to turn around in sucl a small space. This manpower deficiency was made uçp by the lone waiter who was prepared to miake crêpe suz-, ette in a compartment, a flaming gesture which must liave caused Lloyds of London anxious Mom- ents. Somie of the elegance had dis- appeared by the timne Worid War Il starteçi. After 1945 more of it had vanished. Some of, thesleep- ing cars, moderniized, were stili in use after 50 years of service. Mucli of the nmahogany panelling wý,as intact, but seats that couidi be converlred into berths had re- placed beds, and the lace ai-di elegant iights had been removed. By 1947 the Wagon Lits Co., wbich had been sold by Thomas Çook, had taken off the best cars, for the Russians - then occupy.. ing Austria alonig with the Brit- lsh, French and Americans - hadi a quaint habit of making off with thein after they crossed the Danube into Communist'satellite territory. By the end of 1945 the Orient left fromn Gare de Lyon in Paris. Departure timne was ýar.iy even-- ing. As thé- Orient ate up the dis- tance you wondered about tbe passengers sharinà your comi- partment. Couid that slim, anis- tocratic Woman in black be a. spy? What about the man in the baggy suit? Was lie seiling arins to Aibania? And the sulentý man with a white goatee? What1 was, he?,The womanini black turned out to be La holîdaying scbool- teacher frein England, the man in the baggy suit was a Swiss wiho soid alari edocks and the man with goatee a Swedlsh scientist. Only in the mind's oye and oar, now, can the knowing trav7eler sometimes hiave the feeling it le night, tha.t ho hlisn a trai berthi and the locomotive is whittling down thF 'Kdlorneter.,. He knowe that outsldeý in the corridor Rem Harison and( Humphrey Bogart are piotting michiof. Aiid ie hea)rs the train witeas it pas- $9 a nameiess sqtation somiewhere in~ Eastern Europe, and it ochoee Pznd echoos. Can you hear it?ý "WATCHA DOINý'?" -- Thut's the question Grant Angrove, *3, osked os ho nionchalontly wolked up te the horrified workmaon, H-ugh Myers. But this littie drome, "The Un- wanted Footprints," which took place in Satinaos, Colif, ended happily when the tracks were smnoothed eut again. 1IÂLE TALKS ý Av damwî. FILLET! The French have a way with miany foods, net the least of which is fish. Forexample, when they have cooked f ish rapidly se that it is moist and flaky, they place it on a platter with fried cucumber, dribble with browned butter and parsley, et voila! -Fîlets Doria. FILLETS DORIA 1 poutnd perch or soie filuets 3 medium cucumbers ' teaspoon sait /teaspeon pepper 2 tabiespoons butter, ineited 1, egg, beaten, 2 tabiespôons miik 1/4 teaspoon sait 1/4.cup fleur Vcup fine dry bread crumbsz 3 tablespoons vegetabie 011 1 eve garlie (optienai) 2 tabiespeons butter 2 tabiespoons choppedi parsley Thaw fiMets, if necessary, aid seante. Peel.cucumbers, cut into 2-inch lengths, then divide in quarters. Season with sait and pepper. Cook slewly, uncovered, ini 2 tabiespoons butter unt-il oasiiy pierced with a fork, turn- lng occasionally. When cooked, remove te a heated platter andl set in a 2000F. oven te keep warm. Meanwhile prepare fillets. Combine beaten egg and milk. Seasojn fillets with Salt. Coat W1ih flour, dip in egg xiture, thon coat with bread crumbs. If desir- ed, heat garlic in cooking ou unartil brown then remove from pan. H1ave cooking oul very hot but not smoking. Add fillets, Fry quickly until brow.ýn on one side. Turn and brown on other side. Drain. Place on top of cucumnber. Chean frying pan. Add 2 tablespoons of butter. H-eat until butter foams and turns a pale browni. Pour over fish. Spinkle with -minced parsley. Serve immediatelY. Mak- ,es 4 servings. With the coming of autuman thoughts turn te chowý.der, Chow- der breathes comefort. It steainrs énjeyment. A favourite type is miade with fis-f. Flsh chowý,der was ariginally a fisherm-.an's dish. 0f te-cent yoars, liowever, it has, been adopted by epicures. Thorý foiiewingrcpes a very creamy and delicieus -version.1 FISH CHOWDER 1 'pound cod or haddock filuets i cup wpter~ 1 eup ehopped onion X tabiespoous butter, imeited i tabiespoon fleur 1 cup diced potatees ½u cehopped celery 'kbay leat li/ teasipoons sait 1/ teaspoon popper 2 cups milk,-scaided i,/5 eup table cream %/ cuip 4airy sour cream Parsiey, fineiy chopped Thaw fillets if frozen. 5kmn if necessary. Ctlinte l-inch cubes, Add wat er and heat te simmiering temiperatuire. Simmner uncoveredi for 5 minuites, or, until fish mill separate in flakes, Strain, reserv- ing broth. In a deep) sauïcepan cook enion in btiter for 5 m-in- utes. Blend in fleur. Add fishi broth grcaduallv. Cook and stir unitil snioeth. Add potatees, cel- ery, bay leaf, Sait and pepper. Simmier for about 20 miiius, or until potatees are tender. Com- bine scalded milk, creainandi sou cram.Beat Iuntil well blended. Add te petate mixture, Stir in cooked fisli. Heat genti.y beiow simmiering ltemlperatuire for about 5 m-inutes. Remove, bay leaf. Serve piping hot, garnîshled wit-h a sprinkling of parsley.« Make 6 (one-cup) servinî-g. Note: this is an easy recipe te double if a larger quantity is de- sred. rs DORIA [ One characteristic cf a good was prfected over years of preparing the lovely fresýh fish of her province. BAKED HADDOCK A LA MARITIMES 2 pounds haddock fillets ]ý teaspoon sait Dash pepper 1 egg, siightiy beaten 1/2 cup soft bread crumbs 2 tomiatoes, sllced 1/ cup chopped onion 1 cup sliced mushrooms 1/ cup butter, meited 1/4 cup grated Chedidar cheese Thaw fillets, if frozen. Cut into serving-size portions. Place in a Éhallow, greased, baking dish or pan. Sprinkle with ',/ teaspoon of sait and a dash of pepper. Spreýad with beaten egg. Sprinkle with crumbs. Top with tomato slices, Season tomato with remaining 1/ teaspoon of saît. Meanwhile fry onion and mushrooms in butter until tender. Spread cooked veg- etabies evenly over tomato slices. Sprinkle wvith grated cheese. Bake in a hot oven (450'F.) for 20 minutes, or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. Makes 6 servings. If you are watching your pen- nies these days, be sure to put pink saimon on your market list. According to word received fromi the Departmrent of Fisheries of Canada there is a record pack of the pink variety of canned sa!- mon this year. This thrifty, adap- table food product can be hbomne makers best friendf. Although it is pàier in colour than the red varieties, canned pixnk salm on is every bit as f la- voursome and nutritious. Used in' combination with other foods It malkes a wide variety of wboie- some hot' dishes. Sometime try combining it with crisp green icabbage in a creamny sauce to bc served on- toast. For a littie ,filp1 toss in soi-e diii seed and chop- ped onion, The following direc- tions tell how, and make !a dish whieh perfectiy befits its nanie, Pink Salunon Deiight. PINK SALMON DELIGUT 1 can (7%V ounces) pink saimon 1 medium onion, fineiy chopped 4 tablespoons butter, meited 3 tabiespoons fleur 1/2 teaspoon sait Vteaspoon pepper icup milkc /teaspoon diii seed Zcups shredded cabbage 1 tablespooni lemion julice Toast points Drain anrd flake salimon inito bite-sýized' piec(- es, saving liquid. In a sauýcepan cook onion in but- ter for about 5 minutes, or urntil tender. Blend in flour, sait ai-ic pepper. Add milk and salmon h- quid cgradually. Cook, sti rring constantly, unitil thickened. Add ill scee, cream, and cab»alge. Cojok over 10w heat for, S min- utes. Stir in salmron and lemon, juijce. Rha.When pxturei s piping hot, serve at once on toast, Makes 4 servTings. A recent suarvey shows that four out of five surveys Pr-ove what they set out te prove. ISS;UE 10 - 11V6? Juost What Is A '"Famnily"_ Movie? Everyt>ody fa vo u rs family movies, b ut neliýody seems to know what they are. In recent years the clamour lias increased for Hollywood teo make more family films, and te make fewer 0f those wîth sc>-oalled aduit themes. When it cornes te defin- ing a farnily film, however, ex- perts disagree. Even a family may figbt about it. The latest attempt to define the tenin was made on, July 23 by Boxoffice Magazine, a publi- cation respected in motion pic- ture trade circles. It asked for def initions, froin movie produ- cens, directors, theater mana- gers, educatens, critics an-d com- munity leaders. Needless te say, their def initions dlid net agree, nor did they always define. W ait Disney, for example, said that in his Opinion a fam- il- film is "'a picture emphasiz- ing laughter and adveniture which, for a w2hule anyway, makes people forget their trou- bles and those of the wonrld." This describes one kind of family film, but it seem.s te ex- clude sucli films as "King of -Kings" ai-d "The Ton Command- ments" and other Biblical and re1i g iouLis subjects which are short on laugliter an-d conven- tional adventune, and long on Fragedy, wvorld troubles and ethi- cal probleis. Othe.r vorthwhile r-themies of wide interest might be exclud.ed, by the laug hter- adveniture definition. Other attempts at definition lncluded sýuchi requiremients as these: "A famnily movie is one presented in suoi a manner as te off er appeal for al ages. lt must have sufficient depth te captivate an aduit audience, but with enough simplicity te held the interest of a child." Or: "A family film ghiuld net lower the intellectuai plane of -adults . te that of ohildren.. . Or: '4A family,, picture is wlolesome in content, portrarying truth Of beaýuty. It d oe s n et ridicule goodness. ItVleaves one lwith g feeling of well-being after hav- inc seen it." Al of these are partial des- criptions of an ideai family filmn, but they seem te ask the almrost impossible, or te spe/cify theun definable. Son-e pecple -et a sense of ,well-beÎng frein watching a mas- terful and maj&stie tragedy. Some arc- depressed by seeng, "Pollyannia." Among those questioned by Boxelfi.ee Magazine was ae Dunagan of Pasadena, manlager of tie Crown Theater. His, de- finition cf a f amily film wase 44Qore that appeals to a persou from the age of 10 years on, and is devoid orf sex content, Even, subtie remrarks do not go, over the- headis «, the, average 10- yeai - old ofutody Duniagan'aà definitlon w a s more forthr:ght, than most. Thouigh they dwoit aiways so S0, Most pe-Cple who speak about a family film meanei one that does flot deal with sex at ail, ùr deals with A nl i a r.istily roniantic way. Tis ja indeed onje of the consideratice, but it -is only a negative defini- tion.1' A flilm becomnes suitable for family viewing flot only through what it does flot say, but through whtit çays. Too ofteni we tend to classify as family film that which is harrmless, flavourless, emnpty and insipid. Nobod!y haç yet corne forward wxuith a defini- tion of film wýhich will enter- tain, stiinulate and enrich- the entire famnily. He wxýho makes such a mnovie will be doing us a great sociological service, and will make himrself a mnillion ol lars - whethler or not h car define -what hielias cdone. -In- dependent Sa-es(a~ea Calif.) HOW WeII Do You Know- NORTIIWEST AFRICA?> Fash ion Hint N '-k N 'k N N N