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WI: IJUIIUU IJGIIUI Lace and taffeta are combined a great deal for afternoon frocks. One charming dress of taffeta is four ygrds wide at the hem. The waist is tight, and from the waistline begins a. band of the The dainty muslin frocks, which are already being made for summer, have thr-ee-mch belts of black velvet ribbon. A I_.Y_,L , louuuuluy UUIUU upuu US. Parisian sketches show a strong tendency toward straight girdles, which are worn at the normal waistline. These are more becoming to the waist that is ni ped" In a trie than the one w ich is straight up and down. rn|.- .|_:_;._ _, V-v - - ` -uuauu an but} SIIIUS. ` For some time the corset- makers have been making their `corsets to curve in a little at the. sides, and give the slightly! smaller waist effect, and then ithey added a little to the height. of the corset and added inserts of elastic to the backs and fronts. .Some of the very newest models lwhich are being sent out to try the market are undoubtedly `pinching the fronts a trie. It is hard to tell whether. this is a forerunner of what we may ex- pect in small waists, or merely` a compromise in order to take care of such a contingency if it should suddenly come upon us. Dar-Iainn ubnonhnn -I..-_. - Ilyo The short round and poilllvd basques are combined with ilun'y, frilled skirts. In my illustration _is shown a dress made ofustriped taifeta. The short waist is round, with a slight point direct- ly in the front. The square Cal- `lot neck is a very much more be- ,cmn_ing line at the neck than the ;VstraIsrht Dutch or round neck. a'I`be full skirt is especially at- Itractive and summery" with iruffles, which dip in the front land back, and are. about knee- ilength at the sides. `Dnn r\l\VV\A 4:..- 1.1.- --..--A The how Basque Walot and Pulled Sklrt. The high waistline and the normal one has taken the place of the moyen age line in many of lthe models, although the long` iline is often expressed in the girdle which comes down over the hips. Th.-. gun; ...........I ......-I .._:.n J auaa IIULU 111 1VUVV LUIA (11-0- Skirts are short and full, coats are long, thi-ee.rquarters and very ,short. Narrow lower skirt sec- itions are placed beneath a wide .overskirt which almost covers {this lower section which is often of chiffon or lace-an odd but ef- fective feature of summer modes. Simsilicity is the marked tendency in a 1 these new gowns. The col- ors are less vivid, and in a crude khaki, beige, sand and the numer- :ous plum colors. V563, AVOID` `III $$lI\J The buyers have returned from Paris. Almost all the Parisian dressmakers held their openings, and the buyers bought their mod- els and hurried them to the steamers to get them well_ on |their way before the maritime [blockade should be enforced. ` 7111-... `ETA--. \T,....1- -...-_.......- ---.-_ unuunauc ouuunu UU CIIJULUCU. The New York openings occur immvdiately after the Parisian opeuingra, merely giving the buy- lex-s_and ihcir booty a chance to |arr`1ve. 1,__,__-,5 ____,_______.__ _p __-l__A __ LIILIVC. A brief summary of what is ishown from Paris in our open- gings here in New York are: Qlri-Mn nun ..l~..-`ml .-..\A (Full l\I\\`Iu VV (7 van UIICUI LIIU KIUGI |l U1 III I the step . That is treading life's toilsomo' way. ` For the soul that gives is the soul that lives, ' And in bearing` another`s load We lighten our own and shorten `Kn IIVIIII Fab:-loo for the Suit, waist. and Afternoon Frock. A sumvlnliv or MULL POKE BONNETS. New York, March 22nd. L.-__-.__ L-_. ,_ "ii-Iiua rzunzucnzs \.III. UUI.Il\IllUo Another stunning hat of tulle, chiffon, or black lace has a brim which is really a ruffle. The hats of tulle and chiffon with "transparent brims are very smart and decidedly attractive. I saw one not long ago of tulle with a pleated crown and'a brim of the tulle doubled. Particul- arly chic was. the placing of the trimming, which consisted of two back quills running in opposite directions. A._-AI___ ...L--._-2___. L-` -3 L_-II- Mull, embroidered with simple button-holed edge - in blue and other colors, is used to make and to trim the charming period hats, poke-bonnets and quaint, old- fashioned leq'horn_s, which are the novelties in millmery for sum- mer. fI'IL_ L-L- Al l.--II- __..I -I.1I_._ the Beauty of Simple Lines. The materials for summer dresses are made with horders' of color, and stripes and bars of: embroider on the plain whitei fabrics. here are embroidered? ouncings of sheer crepe as well! as narrower widths. Voile and` marquisette are also used for the foundation of embroideries. ilmbroldorod crepe Aooontuatoal VVU IIQIIIIUII Uul UVVII uuu SIIUI IIUII the way And brighten the homeward roaqJ' l/V\I.o I For the frocks for warm weath-j er there are quantities of voiles' and crepes, in plain colors and gured, which are stunning. Inl the illustration is a white crepe} dress with an embroidered de-` sign in white, which marks the fabric off into diamonds. The. simplicity of style bywhich it is developed is charming, indeed. The waist is round and full with: a narrow round yoke of lace. The: three-quarter sleeves are nish-f ed with a frill of lace. The plain; full skirt is finished at the bot-` tom with a wide flouncing of crepe with a design which match- es the material. Silks come in serges and cov-| erts, and are more than charm-2 ing. The serge, of course, re-l minds one very forcefully ofg grosgrain in a ner quality, but, the covert is indeed a new de- parture and beautiful in its tex- ture. A new satin called Georg- ette satin from its originator is being used a great deal for hats. It is a coarsely woven satin, and comes in black, tan and mulberry, with ribbons to match. Speak- ing of ribbons and ribbon velvets, there are beautiful owered rib-` bons of all widths, checks that, beggar description and velvet; woven with checked backs, all very gay and brilliant to go with_ the light clothes that are to have. great popularity this season, and: so the wheel of Fashion and those of the factories go on and on for- ever. VI most like the awning stripes of a year ago, are very smart for waists and novelty suits. Chif- fon, voile, organdy and handker- chief linen are the fabrics, which are used mostly for the season's: blouses, which are, of course-.,l very popular ovsng to the tailor-! ed suits. | Gill-.. ..A.._. 2 in bright stripes, :11- vvxucl ah CGUII burn. The suits being strictly tailor- ed in their style require suitable materials. Serge, gabardine, gabardme voile, which is the lightest-weight fabric obtainable for tailored suits, and a new fabric called grosgrain serge are among the smartest materials shown, as well as the most ser- viceable. - .........- :_ I___:_,I_ same color, which winds in spir- al effect around the hips and down--down to the hem, getting wider at each turn. 7-`Flu... .....'4.. L..:_.. _L_:-1.I__ 4-:|__. Till IIRIII IXIIIIEI AND SATURDAY IORIIIC j -- v;...vv-unuJ, RJIIQ .I..J\J\Jl~J. - atl Prof. Roland Usher's book is lvetga very valuable compliment to an-General von Bernhardi s work nth 101-inaiiy an_d the Next_War, ave-also_1n Barrie Public_Library; andzforut brings us the evidence of 086% an impartial witness that Gener_ or al von Beriihardi s creed .was not ' the creed of a mere military re- th_ibrand, but had become the creed eS;a_lmost of the whole German na- mdvtion. Prof. Usher is no pi-eju- n-diced Englishman saturated with we i(}ermaiioph_obia, but an American de !Pr_if. of History in an American th;:University; and he brings his Fhe trained powers of observ_ation to. l bear upon the problem with com-` [ed p1ete_ detachment. His book was ii; published in 1913 and on _the he'Ivery first page he sums up. with- ;h_out the slightest _hesitation_or hinfdollbt, the coiiclus_ions_ to which 0t_:his study of the situation brings him, in these words:-'I`he Ger- ,h_ mans aim at nothing less than the domination of Europe and of the world by the Germanic race." An loonomlo I-llstol-y of Iusola" (By James Mavor)-2 Vols. . The aim of this work is to pre- sent to English readers the main result of recent historical re- searches which- have been con- ducted by various Russian schol- ars. An account is given of the old Russian trading towns and of the mercantile foundation of the economy of early Russia; and the relation between the economic changes and the changes in poli- tical structure is examined in de- tail. The central fact of modern Russian economic history is re- garded as serfdom, or the right of the proprietor of the land to uuvv IIVIIIB nu UIIC uunucu Dbd.bC5.g It would, of course, be silly to: attach any great historical or. military importance to these revelations. In the first/place, ' the stories have too many of the marks of conventional fiction of the international-intrigue type The author always represents: himself as the preternaturallyi, acute and daring secret_service*: man of the typical mystery story._% {At the same time it is clear that;. ,the author knows quite a littlegv gof the workings of the Germany 'secret-service. There is no rea-1 lean to doubt that he has actually been a German spy-there must be a couple of millions of theml, And he has been able to turn his`. knowledge to excellent account in these entertaining stories. Theyi are rattling good yarns, and hold,. the reader's attention through-.; out. They deal with material of: a very picturesque sort, and they;. are well told. Dr. Graves has the .2 true `story-teller s knack. The] information he gives is also fre-3` quently of great interest, as in` his account of his study of the silhouettes of warships, which, enabled him to name any warship? at once, if only he could see her mere outline. This was just be- fore his nal trip to England. DIIUI. Ill] G1 UUI. o Lll UAPIGIIHDIUII is that it was made clear to him! that he had been betrayed by his! German employers. He thereup-f on took service with the English! Government, and so served out` the rest of his sentence. He is; novv living in the United` S_tates. uuuu "IA A4` ..,.....n.. 1.... ...ll.. 1...: 4-Make things look `like new by using our superior ready- mixed paints. Parson's Fair. 11-3 The Secrets of the German war Ofoo. A narrative by Dr. Armgaard Karl Graves. l The Secrets of the German i War Office" by the pseudonymous I Dr. Graves is without a doubt the 4 most thrilling reading in the list. : People may or may not accept 1 jcompletely Dr. Graves state-I] gments as to the important posi-I: *tion he held as the secret agent of the Kaiser, but they can hard- ly keep from being intensely in- terested in his story of his ex- periences and adventures, and es- pecially his account of the work- ings of the German spy system. c Dr. Graves claims to have been}! in the German secret-service for;( twelve years, during which timejt a number of tremendously im., portant and delicate missions were intrusted to him. He did? ,his work with practical impunityi `till the summer of 1912, when he` was arrested in Edinburgh and; sentenced as a spy. This appears to be a matter of record, as is also his release, which occurred shortly after. His explanation- in I1Ynl3 vY\nr`A nlnnn `A '|\!.vv\l The hats are really stunning and are widely different, suited to many types. There is the . small hat, the military hat, the .gtllI'b3.I1 and the large pjcturesqvle what, usually 0.f leghorn, and fac- ; ed with a bit of gured chiffon or ;; cretonne. ` ` . I Pan-Go:-manlsm. By Roland G. Usher, Ph.D., As- sociate Professor of Histor lwashington University, St. Louis. 'I']...\l.' l'\,.I__._ ,1 7v I, 1 I I ' (Continued from page 7.) BOOKS ON `THE WAR. (A paper given at Edgar W. "I. by? Mrs. Wm. Hayes.) ; A very real way of being help- ful and kind just now is to try to keep everyday life in our homes as normal as possible. We, aredepressed by the strangeness of our circumstances; we are heart-sick when we realize war: conditions, and we feel doubt and] uncertainty as to the financial! future, even though we feel that eventually everything must go well with us in that respect at least. So while everyone wishes toavoid even the least extrava- gance, and the lessons taught by war time are good in- that re- spect, still we must not learn to hoard and we must not deny our- selves unnecessarily in ways that make hardships for others. In- deed we may well be more ready than isour usual custom to em- ploy others in many ways such as housework and by having sew- ing done that we are accustomed to do ourselves. This advice may unfortunately not have entirely practical application in country districts where it is said need oft- en exists for women helpers. There are possibly a lot of wo- men and girls today without homes and if they have homes their purses are sadly emptied for lack of their earnings. Per- haps the greatest lesson which the lives of women teach us is told in the single word wait." Every woman must patiently hide her time. She must wait. The voices of the present say come" but the voices of the past say wait." With calm and solemn i`oot'steps the rising` tide bears against the rushing torrent up- stream and pushes back the hurrying waters. With no less calm and solemn footsteps, nor less certainty does a great mind hear up against public opinion and push back its hurrying stream. Therefore should, every woman wait, not in listless idle- ness. not in useless pastime, not in querulous dejeclion, hut in constant. steady, cheerful en- denvor. always willing and ac- -complishing her task that when the occasion comes we may be r equal to the occasion. Be1ieve.c me the talent of success is noth-It ing more than doing what youfl can do well and doing well what- 3 ever you do without a thought oi r fame.'The woman who succeeds has so much to do that she has [1 no time for evil or idle thoughts. 1 She never forgets to always look i as neat and nice as possible. She`t awakens cheerfully in the morn- p inn` and loses her eyes thank- 11 fully at night. She knows that I kind words cost nothing and ac-}c complishes so much. She is al-;s ways willing to give suggestions."] that will help some less fortun-it ate one over the had places inlp life's journey. She is ever readyia to talk about a book or a picture 1. rather than to permit herself to indulge in idle words about an- n other. She is always her own (3 modest. unaffected womanly self`s and therein lies the secret of her s popularity and her success. it 'Tis a blessed thing as on we`0 `I\l\l\I. ," Building of BI-'ta|n and the I` Empire--(12 Vols. .`By H. D. Traill, D.C.L.S., and J. 1| S. Mann, M.A. 7 u I This is-a comprehensive re- hcord of the progress of the peo- -.ple in religion, laws, learning, Flarts, industry, commerce, scl- ';ence, literature and manners =.from the earliest times to the upresent day. "The Russian Army From Wlthln." (By Wm. Barnes Stevens.) The author has had 25 years . experience of Russia and Russian illife, and in his capacity as spe- :';cial correspondent of a big Lon- aidon daily he had unusual oppor- . , tunities for studying what was, to ; him, the most interesting side of lthat life, namely, the military. r_i'l`lm extraordinarily,swift mobil- :'ization of the Army, and its dash ;across the frontier, took every- one by surprise except those who knew the changes that has been proceeding since the Russo-Jap- ;anese War. The Russian Army lltoday is more than an Army; it ;lis a phenomenon. For endur- .fance and fighting capacity the 1writer of this book puts the Rus- -,-sian soldier easily first; and he ;;givcs us some interesting inside _glimpses of the central force uithat inspires Ivan Ivanovitch. "What. Germany Wants." (By Edmund von Mach) A comprehensive and clear-cut ;statement of Germany s position :up to and including the outbreak ;of the war. With these facts be. ;fore him the reader can interpret ffrom a German standpoint the Ediplomatic and military acts with gzyhich Germany opened hostili..| ies. i O Q Q Q Q A g 4 The German Army From Wlthln." (By a British Officer Who Has Served In It.) Tells of the life of the German Tommy Atkins as: the writer knew it. One can judge of then gust of this book from the f1-ontis- piece note which says: Thel leaders must be definitely edu- cated f0}:`_ thhat warden th_(flgt;`eat sea 9 w 1c some ay W1 ave to be fought to a finish. The !paths we have hitherto followed `do not lead to that goal. I - _ , lhold in bondage the cultivator of} it. The gradual growth and the` decay of this right can only now; be fully elucidated and placed in due historical perspective. ` I and wake. Sean : Emulsion corrects nervous- neu by.fotce o! nourishment-it feeds the nerve centres by distributing en- ergy and power all over the body. ha-IL ..--._a. L- -1..1_-u- _ 1 . `-5, ---u :5 nu vvcl LDC DUO]. Don't :30:-t to alcohallc mixture: or drug concoctions. Gd SCOTT! EMULSION for ~ if X1'Xl-'n3n- Anna . .. `I = IVIRY DRUGGIIT HA. IT. VII" '0' ` tab or A number of Valuable Farms and Town Properties for Sale on the most reason able terms. 1.15 (I; IJIUBBUIJ lallllla (EU Ull VVU tread In our path from day to day, We can cheer the heart or aidl IL- .-.4... I Robertson sDrugStore` ltloor East of Barrie Hotel BANK OF TORONTO BUILDING BARRIE Hair, Hat, Clothes, Nail, Bath, Complexion and Tooth Brushes can be furnished in a variety of styles and qual- ities. If you are looking for `useful gifts or if you want a good brush for your own personal use, don t.overlook our stock. Fir; & Life Insurance Agent j._.__ We always increase our stock of bristle goods for the holiday trade. Our stock in- cludes every kind of a brush that druggists sell. A Better Brush FOR Every -1;-urpose Real Estateand Money to Loan Prices are Reasonable Don't waste time on Inferi- or selves because they're a few cents cheaper. I ilniv nuvati 7n;_nnn'.r Thursday, March 28, 1018 _]a: Arnold IGVV WQIILS UIIUCPVII I have proved lam-Bulk best for Eczema. Piles, Skin Diseases. and Injuries. An 1: rnnfhnn uynn nun` If IJIDCCSCD. ll IlI`IIl IVDO As a mother, you own It to your family to us: the best. th.-'.t':; lam-Buk! ,:,, ', :'.'."p_-. 5`.-'.' dim Page Eleven I-low w. May succeed. -vow-. I. -uuvlnu The high collar is very smart, but Paris has swerved a trie from her allegiance to it and is wearing one which is high in the hack and open in the front. One ver pretty collar which I not- ice was a strai ht band of batiste buttoned in ront with tiny buttons, and, around the top, four triangular pieces of the same edged with narrow lace ov- erlapping one another around the neck and falling over the high, boned band. ' ....- __.| ;-m_;- -__ --..-L:..-.I